It will but you'll need the center bracket mount piece (the one in the 2.66 and up are different, about $20 more less) that the fan and the logic board mounts to in the case, also you have to get the correct heat sink (meaning you can't use the one from the 2.66), better get a logicboard with the heat sink still attached and un disturbed, that way you don't have to clean and reapply the thermo coumpound. you will need one extra logic board screw, because the 2.53 one uses one more screw to mount then the 2.66 and up do. and the logicbaord would need the mid 2009 2.53 (single fan) size fan (the fan is bigger then the 2.66), But it all works if you want to swap. I did it, upgrade and downgrade. i upgraded a 2.53 to a 3.06, and i replaced a 2.8 with a 2.53 So I know all about it. Personally i would upgrade not downgrade. the 2.53 logic board, i find are a little buggy. Why not try for a used 3.06 gHZ logic board, then all you need is just the logic board (preferably with the heat sink attach, otherwise you...
They have different connectors when it comes to connecting bluetooth airport and camera to the logic board so you would need to have a compatible hardware and connectors in the display assembly. Because the mid 2010 airport/ Bluetooth module I believe in located by the optical drive hence it doesn't connect as it wound in the mid 2009 model where it located in the display assembly.
I agree with rdklinc, although i did find a cheap 3.06 logic baord and parts on ebay that i use to swap out my 2.53 mbp with. But Then I'm also using the old 2.53 logic board as replacement for another broken MBP i bought on ebay to replace with. So for me its a win win situation. I upgrade my MBP and I build/repair a another one.
My input on this is that your original bottom case also has laser engraved serial numbers, and the the new bottom case would not have the matching numbers if it's a used one, and if its new..... well i ask that question myself, if its new what does it say on the bottom? Blank or do you get it lasered in lol.
Ben Elsenman is right. they sell the the panels on ebay, new for about $100, less for used ones. The only pain is the acutal replacement itself.. Please refer to the ifixit.com guide on replacing your specific LCD assemble on your mac
There are also company offering spill repair services out there for lil under $300 on the web or ebay if you look. New board would cost from $500 and up used for your MBP
Just to clear this up.... all the mid 2009 and mid 2010 have internal battery that are not user removable, although they can be, they cant with out tools, and taking the bottom case off. All the MBP "pre" mid 2009 i.e. early 2009, late 2008, and earlier have user removable batteries. They are not interchangeable with the newer MBP i.e. mid 2009 and mid 2010. Now if you are talking about a mid 2009 and a mid 2010, then thats a different story. They appear to be the same size and type of battery. but the mid 2010 has a slight longer watt-hour rating on it. i thinks its like 77.5WH compared to 73, not much, but i would take the 77.5 over the 73 anyday. just need to have ifixit test out my theories. (also look up my theory on changing mid 2009 15" MBP LCD panel with the Hi-Res panel used in the mid 2010 15 MBP)
they are two different batteries, from my research, the mid 2009 15" MBP has a 73-watt-hour non-removable lithium-polymer, and the mid 2010 15" MBP has a 77.5-watt-hour non-removable lithium-polymer. They appear to be the same size, but only question is will the mid 2009 MBP accept the 2010 battery and its larger capacity. If it is compatiable, i would get the 2010 battery hands down. I mean if your gonna pay the same price for battery replacement, might as well get the one with a slight more improvement. but knowing apple, they only want you to use the battery that it was sappose to use for.
they sell brand new display shell on ebay for $100, but its somewhat difficult to replace since the glass is glued to the shell. look at ifixit guild to replacing the lcd and decide for your self. Also i think its possible to pound it flat given that you first completely taken it apart first and have just that aluminum panel. My guess if that you lay it on a nice clean smoothh flat surface such as glass that wont break and flatten it out with a rubber mallet. lol