Thomas Keats

I’ve just gotten my new iPad, (barely two weeks in) and today I suddenly discovered a crack along the top right facia....

I've got a laptop here that the case is cracked around the power button and its receded.. Inspiron 15-5547 as above,...

I've been 'gifted' this phone from family in NY. It needs a LCD repair of course, however before I make any repairs, or...

I've got this ALCATEL 5015A Pixi 3 (5) 3G phone, which was dropped in something wet. Don't ask what, I can only assume it...

I've notice when looking for a replacement part, often its categorized with the carrier (AT&T, Verizon, etc) unfortunately...

I know it’s been a year since you posted, but I have this same problem with my now retired air 2. (Which the wife now uses) i found that that if I could position the adapter at the iPad just right, it was updated “connnect” and take a charge. It’s annoying, but it works… I’m tempted to do a tear down on my own to check it out, see if something’s come loose but with the repairable factor at 2/10 not sure I wanna delve into a complicated repair. dis you ever get this fixed? Was it the charging port itself? Something else?

It sounds like you are out of ink. The only alternative is the nozzles or heads that spray the ink could be clogged or letting insufficient amounts through. That said, you'd see something at elast on each page.

You've run down a few trouble shooting steps I would have done on most hard drives, internal and external. However, I am not sure what you mean by 'replaced the USB chip with another HDD'. The HDD is not a USB chip. If you mean you replaced the internal HDD unit in the external enclosure with another HDD unit, then the answer seems evident enough. What you have done seems to rule out a damaged connector, damaged power jack, damaged cables (Its not impossible however it IS highly improbable at this point). When you have the 'damaged' HDD in the enclosure does the drive 'feel' like it is spinning up? You can generally feel/sense a resonance hum the platters inside spin/spin up. If you lifted the enclosure (not really suggested) you might also feel a slight shift in the enclosure, especially when you start it up. Without running seatools diagnostics on it, or another HDD tool, it's hard to tell past the fact I'm betting you have damaged the actual drive itself. I tell many customers, a hard drive is like a...

Kenneth, My first guess would be the fan. My second guess would be dust in the fan or internal heatsink, or both. My third guess is the hard drive. The hard drive, at non-SSD models can run hot if there is something wrong with it. I'd suggest getting it into a technician to have a diagnostic on it unless you feel comfortable running certain tools yourself. (Yes, there are SOME tools you can download to test with from hard drive manufacturers) If its the hard drive, you're risking your data. I would suggest a full backup of your data before you do anything else. Google offers 15GB free on its google drive, and dropbox will provide 2-3GB of storage which should keep MOST things safe unless you have like, a 50-100 GB MP3 library... Check out ultimate boot CD for a simple package to test your system. (DO NOT do anything you are uncomfortable with. You COULD do more damage with some of the tools included in this package)

Brian, I hate to say it but I believe your system might be dead. For arguments sake lets check a couple things. Check that the light on the charging unit is one (if it comes with said LED light) Test the power adapter with a multi meter, or another adapter if you have one. (There should be a host of how to's to do this online if not on ifixit.com) Your RAM could be 'mostly bad' Your CPU could be 'almost dead' You could attempt to replace either of the above with a compatible chip if you feel yourself capable or call your local trusted technician to see if they have the parts to test it for you. (most should, but the CPU are more rare if its an older machine). I would also check the internal adapter and see if it seems loose. It could still be the internal plug if its not loose but this involves a tear down for a $20ish (approx) part.

1. It might just be a corrupt file or two. 2. It might be your hard drive corrupting the file or two. The first step would be to force a chkdsk, this can be done from inside the windows startup mode. Instead of selecting 'install' you'd select 'repair' or 'troubleshooting' depending on the version of windows. You can also use an option called 'startup repair' once you're loaded inside the windows setup. The other side of the issue is the hard drive is going. Yes, you can replace it, but with that you risk loosing all your data. Yes, it can be saved too as long as the drive isn't to far gone, or you're willing to put out $400 or more to rescue it. I recently replaced a customers hard drive. It had a similar problem. Refused to boot, refused to 'startup repair'. This is when we put a new drive in, CLONED the system over to the new drive (it actually takes each sector/bit and makes a exact copy. Need same size or larger drive as a replacement). After I replaced the drive, it booted quickly with a simple " bei...

Susan, Having the computer shut down at the manufacturer's logo or during P.O.S.T., is a prime symptom of overheating. The first thing you should do is get a can of compressed air and blow out the vents at the side of the laptop. The second thing you should do is confirm that the fan inside (if there is a fan) is actually rotating to circulate air away from the processor. There are other things that COULD cause this symptom, but this is the most common for most/all laptops.

Anir, Without more information its difficult to tell for sure whats going on. The speaker wires could be bad, try a headset. Is the sound system muted? Are the drivers gone bad/corrupt. Uninstall them and reinstall with freshly downloaded ones. My own previous computer, the sound plugs in the front went. Oh they worked, but no sound would actually come through. (Windows would announce something plugged in but never any sound) Check the sound app to ensure you have the right configuration, and if you have multiple speaker plugs try all combinations of settings and locations for your headset and/or speakers.

Tom, It IS sometimes possible to replace these. The trick is finding out which one you need. Just as the adapters themselves are various sizes, the internal is the same. The part is about $4-20, the issue is the laptop may need a complete teardown to do the replacement. The ones I've done, have been simple enough. Shouldnt be more than an hours labour to be honest, two at the outside. The also comes in if you get the part in and it doesn't help any, you'll have spent for $20 part, and paid upwards of two hours of labour (rates vary depending on shop and region but compare mine at $50 an hour). There are probably about a dozen screws on the bottom after removing hard drive, memory, and the panels covering them. You'll need to remove the battery, and remove the keyboard before you can carefully separate the upper cover (the area around the keyboard) from the lower. SOME MODELS require you to take the screen off to do a proper job without damaging the unit. Once inside, you will USUALLY discover a short cable...

Hey, as the previous commenter suggests, if your laptop supports external display you can plug it into a monitor or a TV to at least see if its the Graphics chip OR the screen itself that's flaking out on you. If the display (HDMI/VGA/Display Port etc) sends a signal to the external display you have a problem with the LED/LCD in the laptop. If you don't, then there is likely a good chance the issue is with your graphics chip, or something else. I've seen the display issue being anything from a kinked cable, to a blown backlight. Most times its approximately $100-150 fix depending on where you source the parts, and who puts it in. (I've seen big box stores charge upwards of $300-600 depending on screen size)

I suspect you experienced the same issue I had. I had to extract the hard drive I put in, format it for mac use, and reinsert it. Transmac is useful for that on any WIndows machine assuming you don’t have another mac to work from.

(I know this response is waaay late but I figured better late than never.)

I actually had to use my 6H torx. my 4/5/6’s wouldn’t grab. Whether its from stripping or whatever the 6H worked fine.

Can someone confirm the m.2 type on these units?

Suggestion… reword it… “relocate warranty cod if…” sticker…;)

Thanks! Very helpful and to the point!

You ARE TECHNICALLY missing one step however, removing the fabric ribbon from the old battery at the end. Yes, it seems like common sense but…

Anyways, thanks.