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I checked this on YouTube when re-assembling. The small tongue should be at the front and you should slide the clip to the right as far as it will go before pressing the bracket into place.
30 minutes - to an hour? I gave up after removing the screws and spending an hour trying to lift the display with a suction pad.
This is a very straightforward job. I was on the point of changing my laptop when I realised how easily and cheaply I could change the fan, getting rid of the annoying noise of a worn out fan. One tip: use a vacuum cleaner to clear the dust from the air intake and general area of the fan.
If you destroy this foil tape, try your local plumber/heating engineer for an off cut!
Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.
I’ve completed the battery replacement and the phone has booted up. Just one thing: it’s not clear whether the pressure contact fits over or under the battery connector. I fitted it under and it seems to work. Boy do you need little fingers and sharp eyes!
Oh, I couldn’t detect any difference between the two connector screws…
On the ALS model, the left arm is longer/straight and combines with one of the logic board fixings, which is why you will only have 5 torx screws to take out in the final stage. When re-assembling be sure not to use this as a fixing point until the duct is fitted back in.
ALS model looks different from this
There is a white support foot under the board directly behind the speaker. If this comes free with the board, it should be placed on the frame using the locating plastic nipples before replacing the board. Do not attach it to the board and try to push it back down as there is in sufficient space for it to pass through.
On my ALS model there is a cable connector marked 'fan 1' lower right of the G5 box.