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The Whirlpool WRS588FIHZ is a side-by-side stainless steel refrigerator with a total capacity of 21.7 cu. ft., featuring frameless glass shelves, LED lighting, adjustable gallon door bins, and a factory-installed ice maker. It is equipped with electronic temperature controls, temperature alarm, automatic defrost, and is ADA compliant.

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Wire bundle exiting freezer door bottom.

Three (3) wires broken where bundle is flexing each time freezer door is open. Orientation of oversized plastic clamp is unknown. Quality of wires is questionable. Anyone have a drawing or photo that shows how wiring should be arranged there ? Or someone with similar experience have a better solution ? Please Advise

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Hi @ron_co

I don't know the answer but here's the tech sheet for the model, that may help to find out what the wires are used for if you don't know already.

Run the diagnostic tests and check what error codes show.

If any are present they should point to the component under test that isn't working properly. Once you know the component you can use the wiring chart to find the component and check what colour wires are used to connect to it and if they match the colours of the broken wire you may be able to fix it.

According to this supplier there are 3 wiring harnesses available for the model, given that you say it is near the freezer door, perhaps the freezer door harness (part # W10605341) requires replacing.

As to how this is done I can't find out. Hopefully this is of some help to get it fixed.

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Thanks Jay, I appreciate it ...

Everything working fine after splicing the broken wires but .. likely to have same problem if wires across hinge are not properly installed and spliced wires may be even more vulnerable. Does Whirlpool make these or does someone else do so for them ? IF I did go down the road of replacing harness, how do I access the part of the freezer door harness that's inside the door ? I wonder how long it would take - will I have to remove everything from freezer, find an alternate pace for frozen contents, make an temporary close-out using insulation board ? How the manufacturer intended to pass wires across hinge area who be most helpful. Anyone with pic of new one (untouched) in this area ?



Found this video for a Whirlpool 2 door with the same problem. I don't know if it your model but it may give you some ideas how to overcome the problem


Awesome, exactly what I had with 3 wires broken. The visual with clamp usage & orientation is exactly what I was looking for. Unfortunately it looks like Whirlpool didn't have a great design with regard to wire routing across the hinge - being subject to repeated flexure. I will try to minimize additional stiffness in bundle by soldering & sleeving (instead of splicing) and/ or shift repair back inside door since there is more length available. There may also be a few extra wires in the bundle that could potentially be eliminated. The wiring diagram does not seem to show awg and at least one wire is a heavier awg. Ideally I'd make a more flexible/replaceable section to extend existing harness through this area by using thinner aircraft grade wire (appropriate awg). Higher strand count is more flexible. If wire bundle is helically twisted and encased in corrugated jacket (not slit) to resist folding over on itself. I will try to incorporate some of these things :). Any feedback of awg would be helpful.



We've since had two more wires break, which we solder-spliced and carefully tape-wrapped bundle. I haven't implemented my more-flexible segment YET, lacking two pieces of info ... wire size is not specified on the wiring diagram and it's obvious at least one is larger than the others. Also, rather than splice all the wires in two places, I'd like to get the plastic connectors. Any contact at Whirlpool or info would be most helpful. Thanks


Same problem. Bought wire assembly, but no idea how to get to the inside of the door to replace it.


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Ron C sarà eternamente grato.
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