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Honda introduced the third-generation Odyssey for the 2005 model year. It grew in width and weight but retained the previous generation's length and interior space.

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Tracked a vampire current to back up lights now what?

Hi, I have a 2005 Honda LX Odyssey. For about a year I’ve been having it sit for more than a week and then it needs to be jumpstarted. Using a current amp multimeter connected in series to the negative wire and battery terminal, I traced the problem to the rear back up lights by pulling the interior fuses one by one until the current dropped from 600mA to zero. The culprit was the 7 1/2 amp fuse for the backup lights.

I can think of several options from here: 1. Replace the relay that control the back up lights (haven’t located it yet), 2. Replace the switch in the gearshift, or 3. Pay U-Haul to check the trailer hitch splices they installed years ago without issue.

My problem when thinking about these is that each seems unlikely to create a vampire current when the back up lights are off and the car is parked. Does anyone have experience tracking down this type of problem? It’s been easy so far to troubleshoot, and I don’t wanna go down any rabbit holes. Thank you.

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Hi @jakski,

Just clarifying whether you reinserted each fuse before removing the next one when testing for the current or you left each one of them out until the current dropped to zero?

If you left them out then that explains the current drop to zero.

If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero with only the backup fuse removed. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when a car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc

Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.

Also here's a link showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the engine compartment primary fuse box for a 2005 model.

If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position and the transmission range switch set for reverse gear

Perhaps check the ignition switch.

Do the backup lights work when required and if so, are they dimmer than normal?

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Hi thank you Jayeff. I did reinsert the fuses after testing each one. My inexpensive multimeter required I use a range with a 10A maximum current, so precision in the milliamp range was limited to 10mA (2nd decimal). This is why I said “dropped to zero” however I should add “at the precision on my multimeter”. I will check the lights this week and get back you. Thanks again.

da

@jakski

Fair enough.

The meter should read 0.05 - 0.08A for 50 - 80mA and 0.6 for 600mA on the 10A scale though given that there's 2 decimal places on the 10A scale

Cheers

da

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Jakski sarà eternamente grato.
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