interior led lights syndrome failure both freezer and refrigerator

jaeff you are amazing.incredible reply, precisely what my issue is. one more question if you would: I did a little more digging after I sent my message and discovered that the freezer department was dark and I will get the appropriate switch and replace it. The fridge compartment LED's do light, but what seems to be fewer diodes than before. There is a plunger switch at the top of the box that I thought was used only to reset the water filter, but it does control the interior lights. Do you think that once I replace the freezer switch, the LED panel will light fully? I'm guessing if the freezer switch replacement lights the freezer compartment I can then go to the next step and replace the fridge compartment light panel? I think there is some electrical connection from the freezer switch to the LED panel but I may be whistling in the wind on that one. Can't thank you enough though. Really appreciate it!!!

@mlb_fixit

I don't know the refrigerator but looking at the wiring diagram, both the door switches only supply power to all of the LED control boards i.e. refrigerator top and middle (they're there according to the parts diagram) and the freezer and not the individual LEDs on the boards themselves, so if some aren't working more likely it is the individual LED or a problem on the board and not the switch(es)

Either switch will light all sets of lights, refrigerator and freezer.

Of course you don't know this as usually you only open one door at a time and even if you open both doors and if everything was working OK then all sets of lights would be on anyway.

Try the test as I suggested by opening both doors and then manually operating the switch associated with each door, one at a time and check if all sets of lights stay on.

If the freezer light turns on with both doors open but with the freezer door switch manually operated closed but not when the refrigerator door switch is closed (and the freezer door switch is released) then the freezer door switch is the problem.

If the freezer LEDs don't work with the refrigerator door open (obviously you need the freezer door open to see) then most probably it is the LED board in the freezer.

It could be the wiring connection between the the two control boards in the refrigerator and the one in the freezer although I don't think so as you haven't said that the lights mounted in the middle of the refrigerator aren't working either.

If they're not working then it could be a wiring problem between the top lights and the middle lights and this would also affect the freezer lights.

thanks again Jay for your priceless information. I am pulling the freezer switch today and put my meter on continuity and see if can see if the switch shows a sweep when depressed. I put my meter on the the 3 blade switch (freezer side). I see continuity between Y-yellow and BK-black, but NOT between Y and BB-Blue. I am considering bypassing the switch with a jumper to see if any lights respond as that would be direct current. Any suggestions?

@mlb_fixit

According to the wiring diagram there should be a short between yellow and black with the switch released (door open) and black and blue with the switch operated (door closed). There may be a high resistive reading between the yellow and blue caused by feedback path through the lights and the dispenser heater, but it won't be 0.00 Ohms

Be very careful when jumpering the switch. Be careful not to short out anything that shouldn't be and do not touch with the power connected

BOTH OF THE DOOR SWITCHES OPERATE AT 120V AC!!

The boards convert the AC to DC for the LEDs to operate.

If you short out the switch then if the freezer LEDs work they will be on all the time door open or closed.

Did the freezer lights turn on when you opened the refrigerator door even with the freezer door open? You never mentioned the lower (middle?) lights in the refrigerator whether they're working or not?

OK Jay, I read you loud and clear on my jumper idea. I have abandoned it. The freezer has only one light, it sits below the ice-maker module. Need a flashlight to see the contents of the freezer. There are TWO lights in the fridge side, believe it or not I just noticed it as prior to the problem the overhead light is so bright that I never noticed the module behind fruit vegetable draw. BOTH of those lights are on, respond to a plunger switch, just don't have enough power to see the contents well. I got a quote from National Appliance Warehouse $104.95 for the module, plus shipping tax etc. She said that most often, if the bad module is replaced all lights light, and the switch is usually NOT the problem. to be continued...