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The HP Pavilion 15.6” inch screen laptop with clear audio, a powerful 5th generation Intel Core processor and a sleek, stylish design. This laptop is exceptional for web browsing, word processing, and other simple programs. It is identified by the following model number: 15-ab165us.

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Why isn’t my HP Pavilion 15ab165us turning on?

A week ago, I tried to upgrade the RAM. It didn’t work so I put the old RAM back in and my laptop was able to boot. I used the laptop for a while before closing it and putting it away without turning it off. After a while, it was turning itself on and off again. When I couldn’t turn it off, I removed the battery, which stopped the laptop turning itself on and off again. A few days later when I tried to use it, it didn’t turn on. The charge light comes on, but the laptop doesn’t turn on. I tried turning it on without the battery and used 2 different chargers but got the same result. When I try to turn it on, the fan doesn’t spin.

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Pull the battery out, hold the power button in for a few seconds and try again with the battery, but not the power adapter. If that fails, do the same thing but boot without a battery installed and just use the power adapter. For some reason these Pavilion 15 series machines are sensitive to flea power and draining it fixes the issue.

I had this happen on a 15-p263nr I did a partial guide set on and freaked out until I realized it was a flea power issue. I hope those were 2 other adapters were not knockoffs - if this doesn’t fix the issue it may be due to board damage if you used them for too long and they ended up damaging the board due to a spike or manufacturing error.

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I tried doing this with both the battery and power adapter but the laptop still doesn’t turn on.


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Hi @buyinglemons927,

Try a full power refresh by removing all the power from the laptop i.e. charger, main battery and RTC battery.

The RTC battery is a coin cell battery inserted in a battery holder on the motherboard. It is usually a CR2032 Lithium battery (the battery type is marked on battery itself).

So here’s the procedure:

a. Disconnect the charger if connected.

b. Remove the main battery.

c. Remove the RTC battery - (Remember the orientation of the battery, +ve is on top)

Here’s the maintenance and service guide for the laptop, taken from this webpage. Go to p.54 to view the necessary pre-requisite steps and then the procedure to remove/replace the RTC battery. Also if you have a DMM (digital multimeter) use its’ Voltmeter function to test the battery’s voltage when it’s removed from the motherboard. If it is <2.6V DC replace it. The battery is a common battery available most everywhere and lasts for about 4 years. If it is below 2.6V DC the BIOS can become corrupted preventing a normal start as the RTC battery maintains the BIOS settings when the laptop is switched off.

d. Press and hold the laptop’s Power button for 30 seconds and then release

e. Reinsert the RTC battery (note the orientation is correct)

g. Reassemble the laptop

h. Reinsert the main battery, reconnect the charger and then try to turn on the laptop.

If it starts there may be a message regarding the date and time being incorrect. This is normal as the BIOS has been reset. Once it has been corrected, the message won’t appear the next time that the laptop is started.

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I have a battery from 2013 in my Dell and it's fine with 3.1V left. The 4 year thing is bunk 95% of the time. It appears to be the original battery as well.



Fair enough.

It might depend on how often the laptop is left off and for how long at a time.

Never hurts to check though ;-)


@jayeff I think it's the EEPROM chip that lends to it being so tolerant.

I got mine without a hard drive and with a bad LCD (I basically paid almost nothing for it and put a new LCD assembly and SSD on it), so it may have been shelved young enough I got a descent CMOS battery but a dying primary battery (originally at 54% health) based on the wear of the original keyboard and palmrest. That may explain why the battery is so good when it's not uncommon for decently used ones to be at 3V +/- a few microvolts (Ex: 3.01V). My E6540 I used from the day I got it until it got to the point it was too far gone (5 years) is at 2.99V.

I think the battery life really does depend more on the board and manufacturer with machines like my Dell being good enough it's probably not something you need to worry about, but ANY issue with POST warrants a meter check. I got a machine for the hard to find 1080p IPS iDP panel and the machine shipped dead due to a corrupted CMOS RAM problem - when I rebuild it I'm probably going to change the cell to be sure despite being at 3V.


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