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Information and repair instructions for Monogram Refrigerator

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How to check GE Monogram fridge damper

The temperature in my GE Monogram fridge is very low. The reported temp in the fridge is 28C, and the lowest available set temp is 34C. From other posts here and elsewhere, it seems like the most likely cause is the damper assembly.

I read that the damper door can be seen through the vented window behind the ice maker. I removed the ice maker, removed the vent, and took the attached photo toward the fresh foods section. I assume the window in the photo is the actual damper door window.

Does the photo show the door open, or is the door just a dark color?

Also, if the problem is thermistors and not the damper, would the LED readout in the fridge report temperature accurately (meaning it has a separate sensor)? Or does the LED temperature display also get its information from the same thermistors, so it would report something above the set temp?


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What is the model number of the refrigerator?






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Have you tried placing an appropriate thermometer in the refrigerator compartment to check whether the displayed temperature is accurate or not, (within a degree anyway)?

The display temperatures are usually derived from the temperature sensors in the compartments. There are 3 temperature sensors in your model. One each in the fridge, freezer and quick chill section

Here’s a link to the parts diagrams for your model

Given the cost of the refrigerator sensor (part #336 - fresh food section) as opposed to the damper control unit (part #367 or #368 fresh food section) it may be worthwhile replacing it first to see if that resolves the problem.

There are other suppliers online. Just search for ZISB420DRA parts to get results for suppliers that suit you.

You could test the sensor but would have to know its’ specifications, (which I don’t) to see if it was still within specs. Normally they are NTC (negative temperature co-efficient) thermistors which means that as the temperature increases, their resistance decreases and their datasheet would show what their known resistance value is at any given temperature within their operating range. This resistance value is used by the control board to determine what should happen to maintain the compartments within their set operating range.

Looking at an image of the damper in the parts list, it shows that the shutter is black in colour but it is hard to tell from your image of it whether it is partially open or shut. At least for me anyway ;-)

Can feel if any air is coming though it? The evaporator fan in the freezer compartment will stop when a door (either door, refrigerator or freezer) is open, so to feel for the air coming through the damper with a door open, manually operate the door switch to turn off the light in the compartment. The door switch(s) are usually also used to signal the control board to turn the evaporator fan on when both the doors are shut and off when either door is open. You don’t want to be blowing the cold air out of the compartments. By manually operating the door switch(s) you fool the control board into thinking that the door is shut and the fan should start again. The evaporator fan should run as long as the compressor is running

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Wow, thank you for the detailed reply.

Where should I feel for air coming through to verify a damper issue? The window I photo'd initially might be where the cold air is blown into the freezer by the compressor rather than where air travels between the fresh food section and freezer. Does the compressor blow cold air into a chamber that is connected directly to the freezer behind the ice maker, and also to the fresh food section via a damper? Also, cold air blows into the freezer even when both doors are open (without holding in the door switch).

I will attach a few more photos.

Regarding the thermistor, it looks like a pretty straightforward replacement so I'm definitely game for that if it's a possibility. I haven't verified with another thermometer, but the LED temperature readout (~25C) is well below the set temp (36C), and the correlates with everything in the fresh food section freezing. So it seems like the fridge knows it's too cold, but is cooling the fresh food section further anyway.


Hi @matt100psi

The air should be blowing out of the freezer from the evaporator fan not blowing into it. Although in saying that there is also a fan in the chilled drawer so maybe that is where the air is coming from. Can you hear if the evaporator fan turns on and off if you operate the door switch?

The cold air is blown from the freezer compartment through the damper into the refrigerator compartment by the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment.

If the refrigerator thermistor is OK, what should happen is when the set temp is reached in the refrigerator depending on the temperature in the freezer compartment, either the damper is closed to prevent more cold air entering the refrigerator if the freezer still needs to be cooled further as indicated by its' thermistor or the compressor and evaporator fan are both turned off if both compartments are at their set temps as no further cooling is required at this stage. The latter usually only occurs late at night or very early in the a.m. as normal user activity i.e. doors opening a lot during waking hours therefore loss of cool air, means that the compressor and evap fan are operating a lot of the time trying to maintain the set temps.

The compressor pumps the refrigerant through the sealed system (comprising compressor, the evaporator unit in freezer, the condenser coils, the filter dryer and the piping.

The evaporator fan drags the air in the compartments across the freezing cold evap unit and blows it throughout the compartments, thereby lowering the temps in the compartments. Any heat in the compartments is absorbed by the gas and when it condenses in the condenser coils the heat is released to the air outside the compartments. The liquid refrigerant is then pumped again by the compressor and when it gets to the evaporator it turns to gas therefore it is extremely cold at this point and the evaporator unit is only thin aluminium so it is also extremely cold

Apologies for the refrigeration 101 but I thought that if you understand how it works it helps to know what might be wrong when it doesn't.

In your case it may be the refrigerator sensor, the damper not closing or worst case the control board


Thank you for all of the information. I had the same problem. I was able to pull the upper damper unit out and I could see that the door was broken off. The unit is basically Styrofoam held together with masking tape. I disassembled it and JB Welded the door back to the post.


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matt100psi sarà eternamente grato.
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