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Repair and disassembly guides for GE Microwave ovens.

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Fuse blows when door closes after replacing fuse.

My microwave went blank the other day. Replaced the fuse and everything came on, including the inside light even thought the door was closed. Able to set the clock like normal, placing it back in the wall then opening and closing the door, blows the fuse again. This microwave was serviced not too long ago and supposedly all the interlock switched were replaced. Any tips?

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I have the same problem. Can the fix be “do it yourself “?



What is the make and model number of the microwave oven?

It is repairable but it depends on how familiar you are at fixing electrical equipment using testing equipment e.g. digital multimeter to locate where the problem is.


I don’t have experience with electrical.

Will need to have a professional fix it unfortunately.

Thank you for your response :)


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Hi @donald1425 ,

What is the model number of the microwave?

Just wondering if fuse can be replaced with the door closed and then the power is applied to the microwave and the fuse doesn't blow but when the door is opened and closed again whether it is a loose wire (interlock switch?) touching the chassis due to the vibrations caused by closing the door and then blowing the fuse.

Have seen where a switch wire was accidentally jammed under the switch after it was replaced and the insulation was eventually cut through and it blew the fuse.

Worth a look for flashmarks on the inside body of the microwave anyway.

How long ago was it serviced? Most reputable repair services give some sort of time duration guarantee on their workmanship.

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Thanks for the tips. I have had all the switches replaced once, not too long ago. When I replaced the fuse everything was fine aside from the inside light on with the door closed. When the door is opened and then closed, that is when the fuse blows again. Your logic makes sense and is worth another look.

When the cover is off I see "burn marks" but opposite side of the interlock switches.

Again, your logic makes perfect sense since it is a mechanical action that blows the fuse and with the light on with door closed, for sure points to an interlock switch problem. The unit is GE Model JE2160WF01 - circa 2005.

It matches the oven below and of course no longer manufactured, don't mind buying a new one, but I like matching appliances. I do agree it is cheap interlock switch or wire most likely causing the issue. Home warranty people coming out on Tuesday morning, didn't want it to look like I messed around with it - but worth a try with you good advice.

Thanks very much!!!!


OK. Tried the last suggestion. New fuse in, display works, inside light on, close door and fuse blows out with a flash, blowing out on side of the fuse completely. Last attempt, door open, new fuse, inside light on display waiting for clock reset. Remounted with door open, closed door, inside light on, display working, open door and close door, fuse blows. For sure an interlock switch issue. Wiring looks good on all interlocks switches. I'll let the home warranty people figure it out and replace the switch(es).

Thanks for your help!


Different MW are wired different. Some, will trip your AC breaker if the monitor switch doesn't activate. Others, like the GE JVM3160RF2SS will blow the fuse. Not good.

If that sw doesn't activate, it could be a bad sw or it could be a worn or misadjusted trip mechanism.


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yes because I have replaced more than four fuses when its closed runs very well the problem starts when you open the door. burns the fuse sametime

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I have a GE model number Jvm3160df8bb . Fuse is good but no power to the unit what could be wrong. Are there more fuses?

Thanks for any help


did you check the circuit breaker for that outlet? It is possible the MW popped it. If so, it is the monitor switch - which is usually the middle of the 3 door switches.

So, if it isn't that, I don't have a schematic for your unit, but another model JVM3160RF2SS shows 2 thermal cutouts in the line b4 anything can power on. Yours is probably similar. You will have to open it up to check those. If you do, make sure you know how to discharge the HV capacitor.


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I had same problem - is related to interlock switch wiring. when u close the door that switch completes a safety circuit that engages the transformer and the magnetron. something in that path is shorting the ac hot leg to ground

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FYI, the "monitor" sw places a direct short across the AC line as soon as you try to run the MW if it doesn't activate when the door is closed. If the other switches don't activate, the light might come on, but it won't run.


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Donald Russell sarà eternamente grato.
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