I want to replace my damage screen

Due to the additional panel options (with many including SureView, so I’ve put a photo in this answer to quickly tell), these machines are bit trickier to source the parts on blindly, unlike the G3/G4. For the G3/4 you either had a crappy 768p TN panel, or a FHD IPS LCD (recommended). I have two of these G5 machines in production, so I’m familiar with how variable things can be in terms of the factory screen. You sort of need-to-know which unit you have because of the SureView option!

There are 3 versions of this panel I’m aware of - possibly 4:

• 768p TN - might exist but highly unlikely as it isn't a thing I notice. Even then, run away if you have one and get the FHD IPS screen!
• FHD IPS (non SureView) - Recommended: This is a standard 30 pin display connector any normal iDP laptop uses. If the screws line up, you can basically use anything from Samsung or LG that’s compatible, even non-OEM options. IMPORTANT NOTE FOR PEOPLE REMOVING A BAD SUREVIEW PANEL: If your unit came with the SureView LCD, replace the assembly as a unit when possible. While it isn’t a requirement as you can get what you need individually (LCD and cable), it is a very time removal that costs about the same, unless you can borrow the screen and cable from a busted unit that cannot be repaired economically. You pay in time (not much saved), or cost (marginally more expensive to replace the assembly but removes the SV panel and cable in one shot) to remove it.
  • WARNING: The SV cable CANNOT be used on the non SureView LCD! It is specially wired for it as pins 31-40 control the 3M filter, NOT pixels! Ditch it with the panel, or sell the cable and scrap the panel.
• FHD IPS (SureView) - semi custom 40-pin. The base 1-30 pins are the same as a normal LCD, but 31-40 control the SureView function which is basically an embedded 3M filter inside the LCD. These are expensive, as IVO is the only manufacturer making these. I hope you like paying for the monopoly IVO has on these to keep it! There is zero difference beside the connector (9 useless pins), and difficulty finding the panel. The backlight controls are also different as well, but that’s something that only affects the panel and cable - the SV boards drive normal PWM panels just fine.
• 4K IPS (non SureView) - NOTE: IF YOU WANT ONE OF THESE, you need the correct iDP cable AND LCD unless it shipped as a 4K laptop on day one. These use a standard part unlike the SureView panel, but the extra pins are needed to drive the panel.
  • Read: If upgrading, it’s best to get a 4K assembly ready to use so you can swap it and save a ton of time and labor. Panels aren’t cheap, nor is the cable so buy it in a nice package you can just swap over.

IF you are deleting SureView, you will have this keyboard. Thankfully, you can ignore the SureView function as the computer just ignores it when you fail to activate SureView because the panel is in the trash where it belongs. The problem is in order to remove it (and save a ton of cash), you need to get the cable and screen due to the modified connector - which is why I blocked this off as a dedicated point. It is specially marked as a PRIV part, so it can’t be used on a 4K LCD. The SureView option is infuriating because so many machines have it in business and healthcare (blame HIPAA) but SOMEHOW the price of the SV panel and the related parts do not match how many of these are seemingly equipped with it. Any non-factory SV machine is an uncommon sight, like my 4K non-SV machine. Thankfully, it doesn’t matter once it’s removed as the SV key stops working when the panel is removed. The function simply “dies” until you add the panel and cable back.

If you have this keyboard, go for 4K IPS, or FHD IPS - your call. No parts needed unless you upgrade a FHD IPS notebook to 4K.