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The Maytag Washer model MVWB765FW is a top-load washing machine with a deep fill option. The washer has a volume of 4.7 cubic feet.

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Washer will not fill with water

Will not fill with water.  No valve blockage and electric valves open and close when bench tested.  Control board was tested and it too is not the problem.

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Hi @stellema ,

When you say that the control board was tested did you just prove that the control board operates the solenoids or did you also try different wash cycles and/or hot or cold temps only to see if it fills?

da

The problem is Maytag made a lousy product and will not admit it or give you the actual info you need to fix it. I have the Maytag bravos washer, and it’s a total turd. Clothes don’t get clean and often I’ll find a sock that’s not even wet… I can not find how to adjust the water level to something more realistic. I am a disabled vet and can not afford to replace this paperweight right now — Maytag, way to go in disservice to your customers.

da

Ben Dover-There isn’t an adjustment. The water lever is controlled by the settings. If you have a setting for “Bulky items” or for “Deep Wash” cycle, try those. They will fill the hightest. It’s frustrating how the manufacturers sell these high efficient washers, saying they’ll save you money. When you have to buy HE Detergant then you have to rewatch your clothes a second time to get them clean, plus, these washers take an hour when the others did a load in 20 min. You save nothing and waste more time and electricity to run it.

Sorry, I had to vent

da

Amen! I called Maytag--the service rep told me the government's "high efficiency laws" force the company to produce a machine that will not fill more than half full with water. Had I known, I would never have bought a new washer. The one I am now stuck with really sucks! If the government is responsible, we need to elect some intelligent people. If Maytag is responsible, they should go our of business!

da

This is all part of the EPA wanting to conserve water. Or so they say. I see no savings anywhere. These HE washers take twice as long to wash a load of clothes. And when they are finished, the need to. E washed a second time to rinse the detergent out. Your electric has more than doubled and you’ve used just as much water as in a model that isn’t energy efficient.

I believe “Energy Efficient “ is just a selling feature. It makes you feel like your doing something good when you buy it. It takes away your guilt by making you feel guilty if you don’t buy it.

@ihatemaytag

da

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4 Risposte

Soluzione Prescelta

William, the problem would have to be inside one of the water inlet valves. If your getting voltage to the valve and no water is entering the machine then the mechanics of the valve aren’t opening to let the water through. Sediment from the water can coat the inside of the valve with a cement mixture of these sediments. Be sure you flush the lines, let the water run full blast for a minute before attaching to the new valve.

The water valve part #w11165546

This valve has four coils and temperature sensing. If you have the option to select was tempature, set it for cold or tap cold if it has it and see if it fills

Do you here the valve energizing when it’s in fill mode? Was voltage or resistance used to benchtest the valve? Did the washer have any error codes? What happens after you start the washer? Do you hear any noise? Are lights flashing? Does it drain or spin eventually? It’ll take sometimes 5 minuets before it begins to fill.

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21 Commenti:

Today I am getting a used control board from a local Maytag dealer. He seems to think the problem has to be the board or the wire harness to the water valves. Each valve was individually energized and all 4 ohm readings were about equal. The valve wire harness was not checked. I don't think this machine records any codes. I do not hear the valves energizing when the machine is on. The washer starts, goes through its process of measuring load size or weight and then just keeps operating without water. I have to believe it's a board problem because there are 4 valves involved and there is no reason for all of them to fail at the same time yet operate when energized on the bench.

da

So the washer does it’s load sensing and skips the fill process and goes straight to agitating the clothes?

It thinks it has a full tub of water. The water level pressure switch is stuck on full. If the little rubber hose that connects to bottom of tub and other in connects in console, if it connects to the board than yes, you need a board. If it connect to a switch that adjusts water level then you need that switch.

I thought you said the board had been tested? On the water valve, you can have one bad valve and it won’t work. Understand that the valve is just a coil of wire that when energized will pull up a plunger that will open the door so water can pass. The plunger can fail. The coil of wire can break or mineral deposits build up and water won’t pass.

Please let me know the outcome. Thank you.

da

Can that little tube become blocked? Mine works, fills, agitates, hot cold or any cycle. EVERY load of laundry has to little water to even turn the pile over and I end up with dry or nearly dry clothes at the top. Piece of junk these MVWX655DW1 Bravo washers are. Call em wishy washers ... because you wish they would!

da

@Jon Holcomb. The hose could get a clog, I’ve never seen a front load one get clogged. It would be easy to check it. Those front loaders don’t use much water to begin with. I agree the Brarvo washers did not deserve the name Bravo. I would check the screens at tge valve where the fill hoses connect at the washer. If the screens have a lot of sand/sediment that could cause a low fill. While the hose is off the washer check the water pressure from the house by filling up a bucket of water with the faucet opened all the way. That’ll flush out any debris. Make sure the drain hose isn’t more than 10” in the pipe. It end of drain hose has to be 32” from the floor.

da

Lady Tech—you’re saying that a brand new washer has a bad inlet?? Mine fills on”deep fill” to halfway cover the clothes. This tells me the inlet valves work, just not the machine and there is some type of governor on the machine that doesn’t allow it to fill. I need that part broken so I’m not rewashing the same clothes. My old 1998 Maytag did a much better job than this POS

da

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Solution 1:

Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the wash may fill slowly or not fill at all. The water inlet valve requires sufficient water pressure to function properly. First, check the water pressure to determine that it is adequate. If the water pressure is adequate, try cleaning the screens inside the water inlet valve hose connection ports. If the washer still fills slowly, replace the water inlet valve.

Solution 2:

Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home water pressure might be too low. The water inlet valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Check the water pressure to the valve to determine if it is sufficient.

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5 Commenti:

Is this a computer generated answer. The fill valve solenoids were bench tested and all four work. The valve screens are not plugged up and the water pressure is between 40 and 60 lbs. The hose that detects water level is not plugged and the lid lock is working. The control board appears to be the only thing that operates the fill valves and it has been replaced. Still no water entering the machine. I even replaced the fill hoses since the ones on the machine were older than the machine itself.

da

No, it's not computer generated. I listed the only two solutions I'm aware of. We can ask our professional if she knows something else that would cause this, @ladytech

da

This is interesting, I have a similar issue.

da

For what it is worth, I will work on anything, and this one has got to me.

Just like listening to music, each washing machine will have a program, "Beat"

Sensing, water in, agitate, sensing, wash, add water, agitate, you get the picture, BUT after all is good to go and I even changed parts already, we have an Issue that I do not Know WTF it is.... Final spin Ok, fills with water some then HUMS... already changed the inlet valves BOTH hot and cold, also changed the Agitator switch, lid switch is good, and it spins, drains,agitates, fills it with water to wash, HOT and Cold, BUT when it goes into final rinse it will fill some and then HUM some on the inlet valve. I even unplugged the connections at the valve to see if that solved it. BUTT when I opened the lid and gave it a small turn inside, then pressed start again it would fill with water again for a couple of seconds, and back to hummmmm

Drain and Spin is the only option after that

TONY needs Help

da

@rightwayco70817

What is the model number of the washer?

da

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did u ever fix this, I have the exact same problem. THe cold works when it does a self test, but, it will not turn cold water on during the sense cycle and the final rinse. On the rinse it just stops, waiting for the cold water to fill, but the control board doesn’t send 120 volts to the cold fill valve. This can’t be a problem with the lid lock could it?

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3 Commenti:

Kwftlaud - If it’s at the rinse cycle and not filling, it must have filled for the wash cycle. Did it wash in hot water? What’s probably happening is during the sensing, before it fills, the sensor sensed a problem with the hub assembly. The sensor makes sure the tub is aligned before it fills. That’s the “erk “ type noise your hear ever few seconds during sensing. . It’s lining up the basket. If it can’t line up, it won’t advance. Usually the sensing light will start to blink. The center agitator needs to be removed. Then the 6 screws around the center shaft removed. Examine parts for wear. If the shaft is rusted it will need a new gearbox, center bearings, and hub assembly. Possibly a new agitator is the threads are worn.

da

everything works fine in diagnostic modes. the water valves work when getting 120 volts. The problem is it will not open the cold water valves when its in operation, and, when it hits the rinse cycle the control board will not send 120 volts to the cold water switch. Yet, when in test mode, the board can open the cold water valve. But it wll not fill with cold water, nor, put water in to rinse. I did replace the temperature control swttich, and the water valve assembly, none of this has changed anything,,, Cold the lid switch be bad? The unit does fine on the automatic diagnostic tests and i have recalibrated it. I don't have any error codes.

da

I have 2 of these machines. Today I took the lid lock out and the water temp switched out of the problem maching and put into the working machine. They worked fine. THe control board on the problem machine has a green light on it. The water fill switch is resident on the control board so I can't change that. I am really stumped. Is there a water temp sensor on the wash basket that could be bad? it doesn't make sense to me because even on cold wash, with the temp set to tap water cold, it will not put 120 volts on the cold water fill valve.

da

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Always first check the screens on the water inlets. You can test for blockage by setting temperature to hot and cold individually. If it works on one setting and not the other, one inlet screen is plugged up. However, check and clean or replace both. I have done numerous repairs where the customer had changed pumps, valves and switches and the problem remained.Save yourself some money and change the $5 part first.

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3 Commenti:

I am having the same problem I can run a rinse and spin fine but any normal mode no water enters the machine????

da

@reginaldba92048

What is the model number of the washer?

da

YOU kidding me... this has me going too.

even changed the inlet valves both hot and cold. agitator switch. Is there a tub sensor. I would reach inside and turn the tub a little then press start and water would come in for a few seconds.

da

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william stellema sarà eternamente grato.
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