Aggiusta la tua roba Comunità Store

Repair guides, troubleshooting information, and service help for refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (GE).

221 Domande Visualizza tutte

Opzioni

GE GEGSF251GXBBB side by side refrigerator - fridge not cooling

Hello all,

Have GE GEGSF251GXBBB side by side refrigerator, that fridge side appears to no longer cool (would set to 37 degrees however, no longer stays and goes to 50 degrees.

Have confirmed compressor fan works and sounds like freezer fan is working. There is a grill on shared wall between freezer / fridge, that am unsure if cold air is supposed to be blown into the refrigerator compartment from freezer of not. Thought the following may be defective or causing the issue, but unsure how to go about troubleshooting;

Temperature Control Thermostat, Thermistor, Temperature Control Board

Any advice or additional information on what might be the issue would be greatly appreciated.

Update (07/08/2018)

jayeff, thank you for follow up as well as providing the link to Evaporator Fan Motor video, I do appreciate it! I understand where Evaporator Fan Motor (WR60X10208 & Gasket Foam WR14X10050), is located in the GE GSF251GXBBB side by side refrigerator, and can hear it running. I'm currently noticing temp swings on temp control display (unsure of part number). Temp should be 0 for freezer, and 37 degrees for refrigerator compartment however, freezer went all the way down to -9, back to 0 for a few days and now shows 4 degrees. Temp for refrigerator displays 45 degrees.

How would you test Difuser / Fridge Damper Control Assembly (WR13X10988 ), to confirm it functions properly?

Still think it may be the Temperature Sensor (GE WR55X10025), however, don't have enough experience to troubleshoot due to time and possibly losing perishables due to refrigerator issue. Will have to have technician diagnose.

Thanks again for taking the time to post and assistance. Very much appreciated!!

Rispondi a questa domanda Anch'io ho questo problema

Questa è una buona domanda?

Sì No
Punteggio 1
Aggiungi un commento

4 Risposte

Filtra per:
Più utili Più recenti Più Vecchio
Risposta Più Utile

Opzioni

Cause 1

The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over

The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.

Cause 2

Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor..

Cause 3

Damper Control Assembly

The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

Questa risposta è stata utile?

Sì No
Punteggio 5

14 Commenti:

Hi @appguy ,

To add to the good answer, here's a link to all the spare parts for your model refrigerator.

da

Mayer, thank you for taking the time and posting what might be causing my issue.

How do I go about confirming if evaporator coils have frosted over? Remove rear panel in freezer compartment?

Where is the evaporator fan motor / assembly located ( GE WR60X10185)?

I've since removed Damper / Diffuser assembly, and appears to be no moving parts (GE WR13X10988). There is a penetration through shared wall between freezer and fridge. I'v'e since left off the assembly to see if cool air from freezer would enter fridge. Should air be felt moving from the penetration behind the Damper / Diffuser assembly once removed?

I've also removed back cardboard trim and confirm compressor fan is working (Embracl EGX 70HL compressor). Have also cleaned / dusted coils while back there, as well as from underneath GE GEGSF251GXBBB side by side refrigerator.

I thought it may be the Temperature Sensor (GE WR55X10025), located near the Damper / Diffuser assembly.

da

Hi @appguy ,

If you go to the parts list and find the evaporator fan motor part, then click on the "video" link in the part a window will open with the video but there is also an exploded parts view link showing the location of the parts in that section of the fridge

Here it is.

da

Update 7/11/20 (apologies for not submitting sooner). The heating / defrost heater assembly (WR51X10055) was replaced which resolved the issues (coils were iced up). Have recently begun experiencing the same issue with temperature setting not staying at 0 for freezer and 37 for refrigerator (-7 freezer / 54 refrigerator). Unsure if the defrost heater assembly has again become defective . Did not feel cool air coming into refrigerator compartment via Damper control assembly (WR09X10050). Removed the damper control assembly , which left a clear hole from freezer compartment to refrigerator compartment. Still did not feel any air passing through. Have visually confirmed that the condenser fan (W10124096), located in back bottom of refrigerator, to be working, and I can hear the evaporator motor (WR60X10185) in freezer compartment. Perhaps either the Temperature control thermostat (WR09X20002) or Thermistor (Wr55X10025) have become defective, if not the defrost heater assembly again. Will further troubleshoot. Again, thank you Mayer and jayeff.

da

Hi @appguy

You won't feel any air coming through the damper when a door is open because the evap fan will be turned off

The door switches aren't just used to turn on/off the lights, they're also used to signal the control board to turn the evap fan on and off (as long as the compressor is running) depending on the door position as you don't want any cold air to be deliberately blown out of the compartments. It falls out quick enough as it is when a door is open. ;-)

Visually verify that the evaporator fan blade is turning.

You can do this by removing the panel to expose the evap fan and manually operating the door light switch when the compressor is running and the door is open. (this fools the control board into thinking that the door is shut and the fan is turned on). The other door needs to be shut though as either switch turns off /on the fan

Only suggest this as the fan blade is a separate part to the fan motor and whilst you said that you can hear the fan operating the blade might not be turning. It might be slipping on the motor spindle.

just a thought.

da

Mostra altri 9 commenti

Aggiungi un commento

Opzioni

Its highly disruptive but have read that removing food and turning the unit off with doors open for a day can make this problem go away. It stems from iced up passage that directs freezer air to the refrigerator side.

Questa risposta è stata utile?

Sì No
Punteggio 0

1 Commento:

Hi @seattlesong ,

Perhaps, but there is always a reason why there is an ice build up in the first place, as with auto defrost occurring every 8-12 hours there shouldn't be.

If there is that much moisture in the air damper that freezes then that also would have to be investigated as to why. If it is because of high humidity in the air, again then why, as the doors shouldn't be opened for that long that often to allow that much to enter (is the door closing properly?) or the door seals may be faulty

da

Aggiungi un commento

Opzioni

Following up regarding current issue with GE GEGSF251GXBBB side by side refrigerator - fridge side not cooling. A few weeks again, an intermittent clicking began. Did not pinpoint where it was coming from and thought perhaps it was the ice maker, and passed over as not important. Continued for about a month however, all functions were performing as should (Freezer / Fridge temp control, display etc.). Just a day ago, the display showed -9 for Freezer & 50 for Fridge. I unplugged and plugged power back and the Fridge temp increased to 51 degrees. Thought perhaps the heating / defrost heater assembly (WR51X10055) had become defective again! I furthered researched what may be causing the clicking heard with the sudden temp issue. Came across the following post at Busted Refrigerator.com, which stated it o be defective Temperature Control Board (WR55X10942P / AP4436216)

https://bustedrefrigerator.com/ge-refrig...

The board appeared fine as far as missing solder connections etc., so re-installed the board and powered up the refrigerator. While behind the refrigerator, I heard the clicking coming from the left side of refrigerator back. Partially removed the access cover and took photos of the area the clicking appeared to be coming from. Located black part with EECON JLLE (197D6266P001 / 513604045). Believe it to be GE part AP6031641 / Whirlpool part 2319792 - Run capacitor / relay for compressor. Possible this is what’s causing the issue?

Questa risposta è stata utile?

Sì No
Punteggio 0
Aggiungi un commento

Opzioni

Let me explain how this works. The cooling coils are in the freezer compartment. The connection between the freezer and frig supplies cold air to the frig. Most of the time there is a fan in that assy. If the freezer coils ice up, then they just barely supply enough cool for the freezer. There are a number of reasons they may ice up as Mayer pointed out, but one very common reason is the seal on the freezer is compromised. What was causing the problem on my sisters unit was an issue with the bottom drawer. For some reason the plastic front was VERY slightly keeping the door from closing. Looking at the seal, it appeared to be closing fine. I finally removed the seal, because it was easy, and it was then very apparent that the door was hitting this part. I removed the plastic because I couldn’t figure out how to make the droor go back another 1/2”. Replaced the seal. problem solved. BUT, you will have to defrost the coils manually with a hair dryer after removing the back cover.

Questa risposta è stata utile?

Sì No
Punteggio 0
Aggiungi un commento

Aggiungi la tua risposta

AppGuy sarà eternamente grato.
Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 0

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 7

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 20

Tutti i Tempi: 6,392