Introduzione

Se devi usare il vivavoce per poter ascoltare l'interlocutore durante una chiamata audio, potrebbe essere necessario sostituire il tuo altoparlante voce. Usa questa guida per sostituire un altoparlante voce morto o moribondo nel tuo iPhone 6.

Puoi usare questa guida anche per sostituire le parti seguenti:

Prima di smontare il tuo iPhone, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.
  • Prima di smontare il tuo iPhone, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

  • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.

  • Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe da 3,6 mm vicino al connettore Lightning.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Replica

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Replica

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Replica

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Replica

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Replica

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Replica

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - Replica

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - Replica

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - Replica

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - Replica

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - Replica

I prossimi tre passi illustrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo attrezzo per aprire in sicurezza l'iPhone 6 e che raccomandiamo per chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione. Se non usi l'iSclack, vai tre passi avanti per un metodo alternativo.
  • I prossimi tre passi illustrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo attrezzo per aprire in sicurezza l'iPhone 6 e che raccomandiamo per chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione. Se non usi l'iSclack, vai tre passi avanti per un metodo alternativo.

  • Se il distanziale in plastica è attaccato al centro dell'iSclack, rimuovilo adesso: non serve per i telefoni di grandi dimensioni come l'iPhone 6.

  • Premi le maniglie dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Replica

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - Replica

Disponi la parte bassa del tuo iPhone tra le ventose. Posiziona la ventosa superiore dell'iSclack contro il display, appena sopra (ma senza coprirlo) il pulsante home.
  • Disponi la parte bassa del tuo iPhone tra le ventose.

    • Posiziona la ventosa superiore dell'iSclack contro il display, appena sopra (ma senza coprirlo) il pulsante home.

  • Apri le maniglie per chiudere le ganasce dell'iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile con fermezza sui lati superiore e inferiore dell'iPhone.

Aggiungi Commento

Mentre reggi saldamente il tuo iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per separare le ventose, tirando verso l'alto il pannello anteriore rispetto al case posteriore. L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone in misura sufficiente a separare le parti, ma non abbastanza da poter danneggiare i cavi del display.
  • Mentre reggi saldamente il tuo iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per separare le ventose, tirando verso l'alto il pannello anteriore rispetto al case posteriore.

  • L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone in misura sufficiente a separare le parti, ma non abbastanza da poter danneggiare i cavi del display.

  • Stacca le due ventose dal tuo iPhone.

  • Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Replica

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Replica

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Replica

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - Replica

Se non hai un iSclack, usa una ventosa singola per sollevare il pannello frontale:
  • Se non hai un iSclack, usa una ventosa singola per sollevare il pannello frontale:

    • Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa sia ben premuta contro lo schermo per creare una forte tenuta.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Replica

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Replica

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

-Tom

tombuy - Replica

Mentre tieni fermo l'iPhone con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
  • Mentre tieni fermo l'iPhone con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    • Prenditi tutto il tempo che ti serve e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display è molto più a filo di quanto accade con la maggior parte dei dispositivi.

  • Usando uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a a forzare verso il basso il case posteriore, lontano dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.

  • Ci sono diverse clip che tengono in posizione il gruppo del pannello frontale sul case posteriore, quindi potrebbe essere necessario usare insieme la ventosa e lo strumento di apertura per liberare il gruppo display anteriore.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Replica

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Replica

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Replica

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Replica

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Replica

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - Replica

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Replica

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

Luke Man - Replica

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Alan Derrick - Replica

Tira la sporgenza in plastica per allentare la ventosa. Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.
  • Tira la sporgenza in plastica per allentare la ventosa.

  • Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.

Aggiungi Commento

Apri l'iPhone sollevando dal case posteriore il lato del pulsante home del gruppo del pannello frontale, usando il lato superiore del telefono come una cerniera. Ci sono diverse clip lungo il lato superiore del pannello frontale che formano una specie di cerniera. In fase di rimontaggio, allinea le clip appena sotto il bordo superiore del case posteriore. Quindi fai scorrere il pannello frontale verso l'alto finché il suo bordo superiore è a filo con quello del case posteriore.
  • Apri l'iPhone sollevando dal case posteriore il lato del pulsante home del gruppo del pannello frontale, usando il lato superiore del telefono come una cerniera.

    • Ci sono diverse clip lungo il lato superiore del pannello frontale che formano una specie di cerniera.

    • In fase di rimontaggio, allinea le clip appena sotto il bordo superiore del case posteriore. Quindi fai scorrere il pannello frontale verso l'alto finché il suo bordo superiore è a filo con quello del case posteriore.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Replica

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Replica

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Replica

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Replica

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - Replica

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - Replica

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

nigel - Replica

Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono. In caso di emergenza, una lattina ancora chiusa può essere una buona soluzione per questo scopo. Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.
  • Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono.

    • In caso di emergenza, una lattina ancora chiusa può essere una buona soluzione per questo scopo.

  • Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Replica

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Replica

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Replica

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Replica

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Replica

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

Sherman Homan - Replica

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

todd adelman - Replica

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

brian - Replica

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

smahar - Replica

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

Sam Lionheart -

Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips dalla staffa del connettore della batteria:
  • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips dalla staffa del connettore della batteria:

    • Una vite da 2,2 mm

    • Una vite da 3,2 mm

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Replica

ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

Cory Berends -

Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Replica

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Replica

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Replica

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Replica

Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Replica

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Replica

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Replica

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Replica

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Replica

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Replica

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Replica

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Replica

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Replica

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Replica

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - Replica

bv.gjg jhv /jhv

Michael Amara - Replica

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Tung-wei Lin - Replica

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

Alastair Lack - Replica

So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

John Palaganas - Replica

The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

Jeff Suovanen -

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Eric Craumer - Replica

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen - Replica

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

Jimmy Doi - Replica

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

Michael Pesenti - Replica

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

Michael Pesenti - Replica

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Michael Pesenti - Replica

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Matt - Replica

Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa in metallo del connettore della batteria.
  • Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa in metallo del connettore della batteria.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Replica

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Replica

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - Replica

Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica.
  • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica.

  • Cerca di far leva solo sul connettore e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Forzando sullo zoccolo potresti rompere l'intero connettore.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Replica

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Replica

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Replica

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Replica

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Replica

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Replica

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Replica

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Replica

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Replica

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - Replica

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

Tom Rohrer -

I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

Kevin Harvey -

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

thomasjmaclean - Replica

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

Sare - Replica

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

Alex Kosmider - Replica

Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

Alex Kosmider -

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

lowestseries - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti Phillips che tengono in posizione la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale:
  • Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti Phillips che tengono in posizione la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 1,7 mm

    • Una vite da 3,1 mm

  • Scambiare di posizione queste viti durante il rimontaggio comporta danni permanenti alla scheda logica del tuo iPhone.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Replica

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Replica

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Replica

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Replica

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Replica

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Replica

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Replica

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Replica

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Replica

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Replica

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Replica

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Replica

Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

Sare -

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Replica

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Replica

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Replica

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Replica

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Replica

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Replica

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Replica

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Replica

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Replica

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Replica

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Replica

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Replica

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Replica

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Replica

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Replica

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Replica

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Replica

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Replica

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Replica

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - Replica

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Replica

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Eric Craumer - Replica

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

L He - Replica

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Sherman Homan - Replica

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

Sare - Replica

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

Sare - Replica

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

philbjh - Replica

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

lowestseries - Replica

Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale.
  • Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale.

Aggiungi Commento

Nei prossimi quattro passi, assicurati di far leva solo sui connettori del cavo e non sui loro zoccoli sulla scheda logica. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo della fotocamera anteriore e del sensore.
  • Nei prossimi quattro passi, assicurati di far leva solo sui connettori del cavo e non sui loro zoccoli sulla scheda logica.

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo della fotocamera anteriore e del sensore.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Replica

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Replica

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Replica

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Replica

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Replica

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Replica

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Replica

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Replica

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Replica

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Replica

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Replica

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Replica

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - Replica

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Pitt Monqui - Replica

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo del pulsante home. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo del pulsante home.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo del pulsante home.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Replica

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo dati del display. Nel rimontare il telefono, il cavo dati del display può far saltare via il suo connettore. Se accade, nel riaccendere il telefono il display potrebbe avere linee bianche o non presentare alcuna immagine. In questo caso devi solo ricollegare il cavo e riavviare il telefono; per farlo l'ideale è staccare e riattaccare il connettore della batteria.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo dati del display.

  • Nel rimontare il telefono, il cavo dati del display può far saltare via il suo connettore. Se accade, nel riaccendere il telefono il display potrebbe avere linee bianche o non presentare alcuna immagine. In questo caso devi solo ricollegare il cavo e riavviare il telefono; per farlo l'ideale è staccare e riattaccare il connettore della batteria.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Replica

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Replica

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Replica

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Replica

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Replica

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Replica

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Replica

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Replica

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - Replica

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo del digitizer. Quando ricolleghi il cavo del digitizer, non fare pressione sul centro del connettore. Premi prima da un'estremità e poi dall'altra. Premendo nel centro del connettore potresti piegare il componente e provocare danni al digitizer.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del cavo del digitizer.

  • Quando ricolleghi il cavo del digitizer, non fare pressione sul centro del connettore. Premi prima da un'estremità e poi dall'altra. Premendo nel centro del connettore potresti piegare il componente e provocare danni al digitizer.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Replica

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Replica

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Replica

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Replica

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Replica

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Replica

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Replica

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Replica

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Replica

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

Heywoz - Replica

Rimuovi il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.
  • Rimuovi il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Replica

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Replica

Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

Neos Kosmos - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips dalla staffa dell'altoparlante voce/fotocamera anteriore:
  • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips dalla staffa dell'altoparlante voce/fotocamera anteriore:

    • Una vite da 2,3 mm

    • Una vite da 3,0 mm

    • Una vite da 2,2 mm

Again, you need a #000

Tobias - Replica

Can changing the earpiece disable the Touch ID?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Replica

I read somewhere that if I change the earphone speaker. It will disable the Touch ID once I put the phone back together. Do I have to sacrifice one of these if I want my earphone speaker to work?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Replica

The earpiece speaker itself has nothing to do with Touch ID; a correctly performed repair will leave Touch ID perfectly intact. Touch ID will only be disabled if you damage the home button hardware or the ribbon cable that connects it to the logic board. That cable runs from the home button, behind the display shield, and up to the top of the phone near the earpiece speaker. So yes, if you are unfortunate/careless enough to damage it in the process of replacing your earpiece speaker, that could disable Touch ID, although Touch ID is no different from any other component in that respect! ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

I completely ripped my home button ribbon, that being attached to the LCD shield/Front Panel (steps 36-38, step 38 to be more precise). I can confirm you CAN replace the shield\attached ribbon cable. This DOES NOT disable touch ID/you do not have to ask Apple to resync the button identifier.

Just to be clear, this is assuming that you do not damage the actual home button assembly steps 29-35.

(My replacement was from a supplier who reclaims parts from iPhones, so it would/should be an Apple original)

Chris K - Replica

Rimuovi dal pannello frontale la staffa dell'altoparlante voce/fotocamera anteriore. Rimuovi dal pannello frontale la staffa dell'altoparlante voce/fotocamera anteriore.
  • Rimuovi dal pannello frontale la staffa dell'altoparlante voce/fotocamera anteriore.

Be sure that the replacement part has a little black squared sponge facing the camera. I have purchased some replacement displays in the past (assembled with front camera) and some of them didn't had that sponge. The result is a front camera not pushed onto the display glass and this will cause backlight leaks into the front camera.

ferbarragan88 - Replica

Solleva la fotocamera anteriore dalla sua cavità nel pannello frontale. Solleva la fotocamera anteriore dalla sua cavità nel pannello frontale.
  • Solleva la fotocamera anteriore dalla sua cavità nel pannello frontale.

its better to slightly heat the display from front in order to loseen the adhesive which is glued with the strip to display

vara prasad - Replica

Be sure to remove the plastic bracket (clear piece) that holds the camera in place from the old screen and add it to your new screen, or else your camera won't seat the right way against the screen and you'll have to take everything apart to place it in.

marcus derkson - Replica

Take note of where the cable is placed. When I put everything back together my cable assembly was behind the others (as I reassembled this ‘area’ into my new screen before continuing to the home button). As the cable was behind, the four connectors being attached to the main board were not in the right sequence, so I had to manoeuvre them (a bit more fiddly than you would imagine).

Chris K - Replica

Tenendo scostata la fotocamera anteriore, rimuovi l'altoparlante voce dal pannello anteriore. Stai attento a non toccare alcun contatto dell'altoparlante o del cavo: i grassi possono danneggiarli e interrompere la connessione.
  • Tenendo scostata la fotocamera anteriore, rimuovi l'altoparlante voce dal pannello anteriore.

    • Stai attento a non toccare alcun contatto dell'altoparlante o del cavo: i grassi possono danneggiarli e interrompere la connessione.

Like me, you may have accidentally touched the speaker, springs or 4 gold contacts on the cable. I used the tweezers to remove the speaker but it magnetically got stuck to the tweezers so I removed it with my fingers and accidentally touched the contacts. Use your own judgement, but I've had good results using a tiny amount of 70% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip and cleaning these 4 gold contacts and the springs on the speaker piece. Beats replacing the speaker for $25. Perhaps the #iFixitTeam can lend some advice on this step, in addition to the warning about not touching it. :-)

Brian Hernandez - Replica

Man, great guide getting to the speaker, but I have to replace the mesh as well. Not sure why we couldn't just include that in the guide since we already went this far! Doesn't seem to be anything too good on google results for this last step either... bah!

TheFranko NoneYa - Replica

I have had problems with two phones after replacing a screen. The sensor that turns off screen when talking does not turn off screen. May this be because i touched this contacts?

Ronny - Replica

That's a problem with your proximity sensor (tiny thing with 2 'eyes'), which is on the same flex cable as the front camera.

Didier Daniel -

Hi Ronny, im having the same problem. have you found a solution for it? if u have, please help me out

Fabius Pradeep -

Make sure the screen that protects the speaker is free of ear wax. It can be stopped up with ear wax and limit the output of the earpiece speaker. About 50% of the ones I have come across this was the cause of low earpiece volume. Use a small nylon hobby paint brush dipped in 91% rubbing alcohol to clean it.

scottingram - Replica

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Holy crap, ordered the replacement speaker and the $24 tool kit, followed this website and in 15 minutes (plus a baby diaper change in the middle) my wife's iphone 6 was working through the ear piece again! Super informative instructions - I like the color code on the screw sizes so I could sort them in trays during removal. Thank you ifixit! You saved me hundreds of dollars! The hardest part was snapping the cable connectors back in, I was very cautious not to force them in but other than that it was a breeze.

Jesse Michalski - Replica

What kit would you recommend me?

ceaggar -

My husband dropped his iPhone 6 in a glass of water. He immediately pulled out, dried it and put it in a glass with rice. He tried to arrest him but did not work. He opened it and had water. it dried, he reassembled but did not detect the SIM card. The phone works but is not heard nothing.

Ivonnne - Replica

I just changed the ear speaker on my iphone 6. The damage was caused by water. After thr replacement and a full factory reset the ear speaker is still not working. I read that it could be the cable however the camera, proximity sensor and everything else seems to be working, only the ear speaker still doesnt work.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Al - Replica

Hey. I'm a technician.

I bought an iPhone 6 that the receiver (ear piece) and headphone jack didn't work. Replace the two parts about 2 times. I'm sure the problem is in the logic board.

Is there any way to fix it ?

Thanks

Carlos

carlosaap - Replica

Is there any way to clean if I accidentally touched the contacts? I missed the last warning on the step by step and now the earpiece dosen't work.

Jose FERRER FUENTES - Replica

Methylated spirits will do it.

Use a very small amount on the corner of a lint-free cloth.

At a pinch you can use paper kitchen towel or one of those cotton earbud things. Whatever happens make sure that you don't accidentally leave any lint behind.

Don't let excess solvent flow anywhere except on the contacts. In fact, don't let it "flow" anywhere. You need enough on your cloth to whet the contact that needs to be cleaned but not so much that it is at risk of running off and getting into places you don't want it to.

Other solvents suitable for use on electrical contacts will also do but avoid any that leave a residue behind. Confusingly, it is often products labelled as 'Contact Cleaner' that leave a residue.

Tony Colliver -

my iPhone 6 microphone not working when i calling some one even i on the microphone but the when i am using headphone is ok no problem.

Nasiralam Ansari - Replica

If you know what you are doing and are confident with dealing with this kind of hardware you can jump straight from step 8 to step 20 and complete this repair in a lot fewer steps.

If you are not 100% confident or otherwise the slightest bit concerned I recommend you follow every step in these instructions - they are the best on the net.

I didn't have any available, but I recommend the use of non-magnetic tools - especially tweezers - wherever possible when undertaking this repair due to the very strong magnet in the earpiece. Obviously you will have to use a metal screwdriver for the screws, but when it comes to the delicate micro-positioning of the replacement earpiece itself your life will be a lot easier than mine was if you employ plastic tools. Still, it is clearly possible with all metal tools, just a tad more fiddly and a tad more time-consuming. (But why make your life any more difficult than it truly has to be. :-) )

Tony Colliver - Replica

Followed step by step. I'm have some experience in repairing electronics. Turned on phone , has vertical lines all down the screen. Looked into and says ribbon connections not clean or connected but after 4 attempts to rectify same deal. Don't get me started about those screws either. Apart from speaker issue , phone was good as new and on ebay but pulled it off to fix speaker. Not saying it's the instructions at all but bricked a perfect phone or have to take it to those awful repair places in the shopping centres.

geoff edkins - Replica

Thank you very much. Worked like a charm. Replaced earpiece and frontcamera.

tommybak - Replica

SUMMARY: Clean the earpiece grill with alcohol/q-tip AND A needle tip before replacing quiet earpiece

So. I bought a used iphone 6. Installed a plastic screen protector (expensive self healing kind) and then gave it to my mom. She complained that the earpiece was very quiet... and indeed it was. I immediately thought I had damaged the iphone earpiece when I used water to install the screen protector so I order a new one online.

Install the new earpiece speaker. Still soft... Look up online... common problem, they suggest cleaning with alcohol/q.tip. I do this several times, disassemble and reposition speaker, reassemble... STILL SOFT.

At this point I'm about to throw in the towel... However, Last ditch effort, I disassemble the earpiece and using the tip of a steel needle/pin, i gently scratch the speaker grill from the inside to scrape out any particles.

IT WORKS. you need the needle because alcohol alone may not dissolve the crud that is blocking the earpiece grill. Just a suggestion.

garbage911garbage - Replica

so i did a battery swap, andi think i tore a cable near the top mic because i cant hear nothing when i receieve a phone call, speaker phone is working fine

will this kit have the right cable needed or do i need a ddifferent part

faiz rahman - Replica

If it's just a torn cable, you can try replacing it with this part using this guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I think I might have messed up my gold connectors by touching them with my fingers. Any suggestions?

jorel rosario - Replica

Excellent guide. The ear piece works again and it took less than 30 minutes to complete the replacement

Sten Andersson - Replica

My ear speaker volume is slowly decreasing. Replacing it didn’t help, and neither did a cable swap help. Perhaps the volume toggle switch, but it works fine in other modes. Any suggestions? I have an iPhone 6.

james corby - Replica

my ear piece speaker volume has been slowly decreasing in my iPhone 6. Replacing the speaker and switching out a new connecting cable did’t help. Any suggestions?

james corby - Replica

I dropped my wife’s iphone 6, and the earpiece stopped working. Enter ifixit! Who knew it could be so easy?! Thanks for the detailed instructions and thanks for saving my hundreds on a new iPhone!!

Hejal Patel - Replica

I completed the replacement but although the noise is gone in from the previous earpiece speaker the sound quality in the new one is really bad, sounds like person on the other end is really far away. Any tips??

Harald Maalen - Replica

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