Introduzione

Use this guide to replace the hard drive.

  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs are fast and easy with an iMac service wedge, but can be completed without one.

  • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

roberttrevellyan - Replica

Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?

Dan - Replica

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

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Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

Moreau - Replica

Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.
  • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

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Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

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Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

arisnordico - Replica

Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

dv1977 - Replica

After doing the replacement the adhesive still sticks quite good enough to hold the screen in place. Maybe this isn't rock-solid, but enough for me.

Mirko - Replica

I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

djfanta - Replica

Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

pzhivulin -

You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

kaserlik - Replica

If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

pzhivulin - Replica

omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

now fan runs like crazy...

Andrei Balotescu -

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

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Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

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Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

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While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.
  • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

  • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

Edgar Broekema - Replica

Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
  • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

Cassio Machado - Replica

Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
  • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

  • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

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Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.
  • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.

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Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.
  • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.

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Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
  • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

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Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

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Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.
  • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

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With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
  • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

  • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

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Use a pair of tweezers to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

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While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable.

  • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

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Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

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If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.
  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

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Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

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Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:
  • Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.

    • One 9 mm T10 Torx screw.

    • One 27 mm T10 Torx screw.

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Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.
  • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

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Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac.
  • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

  • The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac.

During the reassembly process I found it very difficult to plug the power/data cable on to the new hard drive. On my machine it’s very short and the fact that the cable comes into the plug from below at 90 degrees means it’s hard to keep straight on to the drive. I found this process could be made much easier by undoing 2 x T10 screws and CAREFULLY (there are cables attached) moving the adjacent speaker assembly a little away from the drive, reattaching once done. Hope this helps

Jerry Frost - Replica

Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable.
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable.

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Remove the hard drive from the iMac.
  • Remove the hard drive from the iMac.

I found that there is one more torx screw underneath the hdd when you take it out. If you remove this it seems to be easier to reattach the SATA cable to the new drive.

jeffjeffmurray - Replica

Peel the flexible hard drive sleeve off the top left corner of the hard drive. Peel the flexible hard drive sleeve off the top left corner of the hard drive.
  • Peel the flexible hard drive sleeve off the top left corner of the hard drive.

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Continue peeling the hard drive sleeve off the adhesive securing it to the hard drive. Remove the sleeve from the hard drive.
  • Continue peeling the hard drive sleeve off the adhesive securing it to the hard drive.

  • Remove the sleeve from the hard drive.

  • Hard Drive remains.

Followed the instructions in this guide using the included tool that I got with the strips. Everything worked great. Put in a brand new Samsung 850 Evo 250GB Drive. The guide makes it sound a little bit more complicated but everything went pretty smooth. Just took it slow and easy.

Michael Conrad - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Altre 24 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Is there a problem with the fan if I install SSD?

asrugo770 - Replica

Yes. There is a thermal sensor, which is going crazy after replacement.

And also have a problem with kernel_task after upgrade...

markeev -

is there a solution about the termal sensor and the kernel_task issue?

Roberto Bonilla - Replica

is there a solution about the termal sensor and the kernel_task issue?

i have the same problem, CPU 700 %…

roro974 - Replica

I’ve run into the same thing: fans are running constantly with a new 1 TB 2.5” drive that I pulled from a 2012 iMac. I can use MacsFanControl as a 3rd party fix, but if anyone has a better (command line?) solution, I would be grateful!

Aaron Schine - Replica

Thank you for posting this. Awesome! I am an IT Admin at a school and have Techie Students that help with the smaller things. One of the iMacs went bad. I had him follow this guide and he was able to replace the hard drive successfully!! Thank you!

Patti Braun - Replica

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