Introduzione

Gli altoparlanti sinistro e destro sono accoppiati nel MacBook Pro con il Retina display. Quindi devono essere sostituiti in coppia. Usa questa guida Per sostituire entrambi gli altoparlanti del tuo MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display versione fine 2013.

Rimuovi le seguenti viti Pentalobe P5 che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro:
  • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Pentalobe P5 che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro:

    • Otto viti da 3,0 mm

    • Due viti da 2,3 mm

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero - Replica

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr -

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart -

Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

michaelmohajer -

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell - Replica

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough -

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori -

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma - Replica

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori - Replica

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio - Replica

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd - Replica

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia - Replica

I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

Alvaro Suarez - Replica

Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

Jose David Valle -

Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

Bert0ld0 -

Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

brian2burnett - Replica

Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

Walt Goede - Replica

Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

/JD

Jakob Dahlin - Replica

Not sure if this has been listed.

PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

erin - Replica

Alzando il bordo vicino al profilo di copertura, solleva il case inferiore dal MacBook Pro.
  • Alzando il bordo vicino al profilo di copertura, solleva il case inferiore dal MacBook Pro.

  • Metti da una parte il case inferiore.

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835 - Replica

I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

Tim Peat -

I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

This is a "PC" habit.

On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

crus - Replica

Hey,

Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

Regards

Jose David Valle -

This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

Andrew Fox -

I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

Thanks for help.

c4rlosv8 - Replica

There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

Tim Peat -

Stacca lo sticker di avviso che copre il connettore batteria.
  • Stacca lo sticker di avviso che copre il connettore batteria.

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori - Replica

Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

g000phy - Replica

Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

max damage -

Why is this step necessary?

67b5ebab - Replica

67b5ebab Good question !

Why is this necessary ?

bigb19791979 - Replica

This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

Hope that helps!!

~the more you know~

Colin Devenney - Replica

I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

Achilles - Replica

Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, stacca con cautela il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Piega indietro il cavo della batteria per evitare che il connettore possa fare contatto accidentalmente con la scheda logica.
  • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, stacca con cautela il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  • Piega indietro il cavo della batteria per evitare che il connettore possa fare contatto accidentalmente con la scheda logica.

I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

Joel Replogle - Replica

So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

Bert0ld0 -

Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

Jer - Replica

I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

Thomas Horan - Replica

Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

James Suojanen - Replica

Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

Antonino Auteri - Replica

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare i tre cavi dell'antenna AirPort dalle loro sedi sulla scheda AirPort.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare i tre cavi dell'antenna AirPort dalle loro sedi sulla scheda AirPort.

are the 3 cables identify ?

darryll - Replica

will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

Oleg Babko - Replica

Yes, this voids your warranty.

max damage -

If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

Delta - Replica

These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

Alvin Chua - Replica

If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

lamajr -

I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

is there a way to replace the antenna?

Fabian Schweinfurth - Replica

unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

Arn Custodio - Replica

The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

joey - Replica

Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

Thomas Kunjappu - Replica

Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

Jer -

After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

cabcpa - Replica

Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

travismlive - Replica

Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

Jer -

@tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

1)The rubber heat sink cover

2 The AirPort/Camera cables

3)The IO board cable

All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

Itai -

These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

ChrisMBP -

travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

Jasper - Replica

I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

Douglas Johnston - Replica

Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

Douglas Johnston - Replica

Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

Radoslaw Przybyl - Replica

the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

Frederick Rae - Replica

The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

Sam Jomaa - Replica

Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

Sam Jomaa - Replica

tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

Jon Ocampo - Replica

Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

chuck60 - Replica

I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

Achilles -

Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

eskoo - Replica

Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

Walt Goede - Replica

If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

lamajr - Replica

Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere via dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica il connettore del cavo della fotocamera.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere via dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica il connettore del cavo della fotocamera.

    • Accertati di spingere parallelamente alla scheda, prima da un lato e poi dall'altro, per far "camminare" il connettore fuori dalla sua sede.

I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

Sergey - Replica

Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

bhayes9614 -

This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

mayer - Replica

This tip worked for me.

eskoo -

If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

noahtfu - Replica

Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

kramerigor - Replica

the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

micheleroger - Replica

Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

Jason Amri -

Push on the little wings, from right to left.

Julian Wood - Replica

This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

Jon Ocampo - Replica

The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

Ben Moore - Replica

This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

Ryan Brown - Replica

It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

Jen Wells - Replica

The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

Charles Lindauer - Replica

The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

jerryl - Replica

Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto la copertura in gomma del dissipatore sulla ventola di destra. Fai scorrere lo spudger sotto tutta la lunghezza la copertura per staccare l'adesivo. Solleva la copertura e ripiegala in modo da avere accesso ai cavi sottostanti.
  • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto la copertura in gomma del dissipatore sulla ventola di destra.

  • Fai scorrere lo spudger sotto tutta la lunghezza la copertura per staccare l'adesivo.

  • Solleva la copertura e ripiegala in modo da avere accesso ai cavi sottostanti.

Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

cahcadden - Replica

Usa le dita per tirare via dalla ventola i cavi AirPort/fotocamera. I cavi aderiscono alla ventola, quindi staccali con cura per evitare di danneggiarli. Sfila con attenzione i cavi dal passacavo in plastica.
  • Usa le dita per tirare via dalla ventola i cavi AirPort/fotocamera.

    • I cavi aderiscono alla ventola, quindi staccali con cura per evitare di danneggiarli.

  • Sfila con attenzione i cavi dal passacavo in plastica.

It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

PriorityMail - Replica

Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

Aniket Suryavanshi - Replica

I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

ChrisMBP - Replica

Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, solleva dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo della scheda I/O. in fase di rimontaggio, connetti per primo questo terminale in quanto non è flessibile. Con una procedura simile, rimuovi il connettore della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda I/O. Rimuovi il cavo della scheda I/O dal MacBook Pro.
  • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, solleva dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo della scheda I/O. in fase di rimontaggio, connetti per primo questo terminale in quanto non è flessibile.

  • Con una procedura simile, rimuovi il connettore della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda I/O.

  • Rimuovi il cavo della scheda I/O dal MacBook Pro.

Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

peteyx - Replica

Rimuovi le singole vite Torx T5 da 2,9 mm che fissano la scheda AirPort alla scheda logica.
  • Rimuovi le singole vite Torx T5 da 2,9 mm che fissano la scheda AirPort alla scheda logica.

Aggiungi Commento

Afferra dai suoi lati sottili la scheda AirPort e tirala parallelamente alla scheda logica, rimuovendo così la scheda AirPort dal MacBook Pro. Afferra dai suoi lati sottili la scheda AirPort e tirala parallelamente alla scheda logica, rimuovendo così la scheda AirPort dal MacBook Pro.
  • Afferra dai suoi lati sottili la scheda AirPort e tirala parallelamente alla scheda logica, rimuovendo così la scheda AirPort dal MacBook Pro.

As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

stvn chng - Replica

You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

eskoo - Replica

There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

Tristan Harward - Replica

Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio su lo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola destra. Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio su lo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola destra.

  • Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso.

  • Iniziando dalla cima del cavo, fai scorrere un attrezzo di apertura in plastica sotto il cavo della ventola destra per liberarlo dalla scheda logica.

  • Fai attenzione quando liberi il cavo, perché aderisce fortemente alla scheda logica.

I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

Alvin Chua - Replica

Easier to do while removing fan.

mayer - Replica

The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

Kitipong Mork - Replica

ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

Don Steele - Replica

I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

eskoo - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di destra alla scheda logica:
  • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di destra alla scheda logica:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 4,4 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,9 mm a testa larga

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,0 mm con una parte cilindrica lunga 2 mm

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Solleva e rimuovi la ventola destra dal MacBook Pro.
  • Solleva e rimuovi la ventola destra dal MacBook Pro.

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Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per alzare la copertura in gomma del dissipatore dalla ventola sinistra.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per alzare la copertura in gomma del dissipatore dalla ventola sinistra.

This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

RT0 - Replica

I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

spearson - Replica

Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

Jer - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di sinistra alla scheda logica:
  • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola di sinistra alla scheda logica:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 4,4 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,0 mm con una parte cilindrica lunga 2 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,9 mm a testa larga

check if screw marking here is right

Oleg - Replica

One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

best regards,

Seth

sethroot - Replica

seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

ryanbraganza - Replica

T4 seems to have worked for me

jonathaniscarroll - Replica

Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola sinistra. Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso. Iniziando dalla cima del cavo, fai scorrere un attrezzo di apertura in plastica sotto il cavo della ventola destra per liberarlo dalla scheda logica.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto della ventola sinistra.

  • Poni attenzione a far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo stesso.

  • Iniziando dalla cima del cavo, fai scorrere un attrezzo di apertura in plastica sotto il cavo della ventola destra per liberarlo dalla scheda logica.

    • Fai attenzione quando liberi il cavo, perché aderisce fortemente alla scheda logica. Se necessario, usa un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il cavo allo scopo di ammorbidire l'adesivo e rendere più facile la rimozione del cavo stesso.

  • Solleva dal dispositivo la ventola sinistra.

a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

Albert Einstein - Replica

I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

maccentric - Replica

be nice, silly

Richard RUNGE - Replica

I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

orders - Replica

Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

Chris McKay - Replica

Rimuovi la singola vite Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissa l'SSD alla scheda logica.
  • Rimuovi la singola vite Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissa l'SSD alla scheda logica.

When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

Lorte Messenger - Replica

I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

Dave Miller -

The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

The screw for the SSD is Torx.

Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

(However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

jkgarrett17 -

For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

Elaine - Replica

The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

Ryan Tucker -

I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

Dave Miller - Replica

OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

Dave Miller -

It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

Toan Tran - Replica

Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

(The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

jkgarrett17 - Replica

Solleva lievemente il lato destro dell'SSD e fallo scorrere con una certa decisione per allontanarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Solleva lievemente il lato destro dell'SSD e fallo scorrere con una certa decisione per allontanarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
  • Solleva lievemente il lato destro dell'SSD e fallo scorrere con una certa decisione per allontanarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

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Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati della scheda I/O e ruotalo verso il lato batteria del computer. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per far scorrere il cavo dati della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati della scheda I/O e ruotalo verso il lato batteria del computer.

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per far scorrere il cavo dati della scheda I/O dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Non provare a sollevare il cavo dati della scheda perché il suo zoccolo è molto fragile. Tira il cavo parallelamente alla superficie della scheda logica.

This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

Robert Jan Lebbink - Replica

Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissano la scheda I/O alla scheda logica. Solleva con cautela la scheda I/O e rimuovila dal case inferiore.
  • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 3,1 mm che fissano la scheda I/O alla scheda logica.

  • Solleva con cautela la scheda I/O e rimuovila dal case inferiore.

This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

Jer - Replica

it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

Reid Rankin - Replica

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante sinistro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante destro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante sinistro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante destro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  • Attenzione a far leva solo sul connettore e non sullo zoccolo, altrimenti lo zoccolo stesso potrebbe staccarsi dalla scheda logica.

At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

David White - Replica

Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

David White - Replica

Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo a nastro della tastiera. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per alzare la linguetta di fissaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo a nastro della tastiera. Accertati di far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo.
  • Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo a nastro della tastiera.

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per alzare la linguetta di fissaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo a nastro della tastiera.

    • Accertati di far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo.

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per spingere il cavo a nastro della tastiera fuori dalla sua sede.

I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

Jennifer McAuliffe - Replica

The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare dal suo zoccolo il connettore del cavo a nastro del trackpad.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare dal suo zoccolo il connettore del cavo a nastro del trackpad.

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Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore della retroilluminazione la tastiera dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore della retroilluminazione la tastiera dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

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Usa la punta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo a nastro del microfono.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per far scattare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo a nastro del microfono.

  • Assicurati di far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo.

  • Tira il cavo a nastro del microfono fuori dal suo zoccolo.

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Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotalo verso il lato del computer con la presa di alimentazione DC. Tira il cavo dati del display fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per alzare il blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotalo verso il lato del computer con la presa di alimentazione DC.

  • Tira il cavo dati del display fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Non provare ad alzare il cavo dati del display, perché il suo zoccolo molto fragile. Tira il cavo parallelamente alla superficie della scheda logica.

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Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare la copertura in gomma della vite disposto sulla testa rialzata della vite vicino al connettore MagSafe2.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare la copertura in gomma della vite disposto sulla testa rialzata della vite vicino al connettore MagSafe2.

This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

jerryl - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti sei viti che fissano il gruppo della scheda logica al case superiore.
  • Rimuovi le seguenti sei viti che fissano il gruppo della scheda logica al case superiore.

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,1 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,5 mm

    • Una vite cromata Torx T5 da 5,5 mm a testa rialzata

    • Due viti Torx T5 da 5,7 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm

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Sollevandola dal lato più vicino alla batteria, ruota la scheda logica verso la parte superiore del MacBook Pro. Potrebbe essere necessario fare scivolare scheda logica di alcuni millimetri a sinistra per lasciare abbastanza spazio per le porte sul lato destro della scheda.
  • Sollevandola dal lato più vicino alla batteria, ruota la scheda logica verso la parte superiore del MacBook Pro.

    • Potrebbe essere necessario fare scivolare scheda logica di alcuni millimetri a sinistra per lasciare abbastanza spazio per le porte sul lato destro della scheda.

  • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, spingi con cautela il connettore MagSafe2 fuori dal suo zoccolo nella parte inferiore della scheda logica.

I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

Derek Gelormini - Replica

Completely agree. I just did the same.

ChrisMBP -

Rimuovi il gruppo scheda logica dal MacBook Pro.
  • Rimuovi il gruppo scheda logica dal MacBook Pro.

A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

David White - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore: Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm
  • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante sinistro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,9 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,6 mm

  • Solleva dal case superiore l'altoparlante sinistro e mettilo da parte.

On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

Fred Anderson - Replica

Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

Jer - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore: Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm
  • Rimuovi le seguenti tre viti che fissano l'altoparlante destro al case superiore:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6,9 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,6 mm

  • Rimuovi dal MacBook Pro l'altoparlante destro.

My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

Fred Anderson - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Where does the wire of the right speaker go?

riggster102 - Replica

Didn’t replace my speakers but had to remove them to clean the speaker grill area due to debris. This was a good spill as it allowed me the opportunity to nearly disassemble and gain a better understanding and appreciation of my beloved Macbook. I’ve never been inside a Macbook and from a technicians’ viewpoint I found the guide(s) here to be excellent, specific task assistants. It’s good knowing the machine is lint, dust, and pet hair free, cooler, with better thermal paste, and threw in a new battery while the egg was cracked. Sincere thanks to you folks at iFixit for doing such a great job. On that note, I had purchased a battery on ebay at a slight savings over your own and I regret this. Had I known I would have been relying so heavily upon your efforts I would have certainly made my purchase from you. The future will find me correcting that error. I imagine your parts are every bit as good as your advice. Thanks again!

johnarer - Replica

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