Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire il cavo del connettore Lightning e del jack cuffie.

Panoramica Video

Prima di smontare il tuo iPhone, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.
  • Prima di smontare il tuo iPhone, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se forata accidentalmente.

  • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di cominciare a smontarlo.

  • Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe P2 da 3,6 mm vicino al connettore Lightning.

I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

estebanfallasf - Replica

I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

Margaret Patterson - Replica

I prossimi due passi illustrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo attrezzo per aprire in sicurezza l'iPhone 6  Plus e che raccomandiamo per chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione. Se non usi l'iSclack, vai direttamente al Passo 4.
  • I prossimi due passi illustrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo attrezzo per aprire in sicurezza l'iPhone 6 Plus e che raccomandiamo per chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione. Se non usi l'iSclack, vai direttamente al Passo 4.

  • Se il distanziale in plastica è attaccato al centro dell'iSclack, rimuovilo adesso: non serve per i telefoni di grandi dimensioni come l'iPhone 6 Plus.

  • Premi le maniglie dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.

  • Disponi la parte bassa del tuo iPhone tra le ventose.

    • Posiziona la ventosa superiore dell'iSclack contro il display, vicino al pulsante home.

  • Apri le maniglie per chiudere le ganasce dell'iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile con fermezza sui lati superiore e inferiore dell'iPhone.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Mentre reggi saldamente il tuo iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per separare le ventose, tirando verso l'alto il pannello anteriore rispetto al case posteriore.

  • L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone in misura sufficiente a separare le parti, ma non abbastanza da poter danneggiare i cavi del display.

  • Stacca le due ventose dal tuo iPhone.

  • Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 7.

It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

Herbert - Replica

I don't recommend replacing the home button. HOWEVER, I would purchase an iSesamo tool (I paid $8 for a 3 pack on FleaBay) and jam that in between the frame and bezel. Most effective way to open a iPhone. Once you get used to it an iSesamo becomes an extension of your arm.

iRevive Mobile -

I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

Michael Wallace -

I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

johnoconna -

Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

Tracey -

Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

Abigail Cherry - Replica

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

Mike - Replica

  • Se non hai un iSclack, usa una ventosa singola per sollevare il pannello frontale:

    • Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa sia ben premuta contro lo schermo per creare una forte tenuta.

Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

Paul Briffaut - Replica

English Please!

tom mozeleski -

With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

Steve Schlotter - Replica

  • Mentre tieni fermo l'iPhone con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    • Prenditi tutto il tempo che ti serve e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display aderisce più fortemente rispetto alla maggior parte dei dispositivi.

  • Usando uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a staccare con delicatezza il case posteriore, allontanandolo dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.

  • Ci sono diverse clip che tengono in posizione il gruppo del pannello frontale sul case posteriore, quindi potrebbe essere necessario usare insieme la ventosa e lo strumento di apertura per liberare il gruppo display anteriore.

Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

Thomas - Replica

watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

Aaron Fitzpatrick - Replica

  • Tira la sporgenza in plastica per allentare la ventosa.

  • Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva dal case posteriore il lato del pulsante home del gruppo del pannello frontale, usando il lato superiore del telefono come una cerniera.

  • Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono.

    • Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.

    • Se non hai altro a portata di mano, una lattina ancora chiusa può essere una buona soluzione per questo scopo.

Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

Español:

Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

txaukos - Replica

At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

Jeff Suovanen - Replica

If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

Perdón por mi mal inglés

txaukos - Replica

  • Ci sono diverse clip lungo il lato superiore del pannello frontale che formano una specie di cerniera, consentendo al gruppo del pannello anteriore di aprirsi come un libro.

  • In fase di rimontaggio, allinea le clip appena sotto il bordo superiore del case posteriore. Quindi fai scorrere il pannello frontale verso l'alto finché il suo bordo superiore è a filo con quello del case posteriore.

I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

anthonyspampinato - Replica

  • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips dalla staffa del connettore della batteria:

    • Una vite da 2,3 mm

    • Una vite da 3,1 mm

for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

Michael Adams - Replica

The screw circled in red won't come out and I'm using a 1.2 screw driver

Sierra - Replica

I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

Allen Matheson - Replica

stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

Matthew Gao - Replica

The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

David Davis - Replica

  • Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa in metallo del connettore della batteria.

Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

dwtan - Replica

That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

Evan Noronha -

It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

Al Taylor - Replica

  • Usa un'unghia pulita o il bordo di uno strumento di apertura per sollevare con delicatezza il connettore della batteria dalla sua sede sulla scheda logica.

  • Cerca di far leva solo sul connettore e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Forzando sullo zoccolo potresti rompere l'intero connettore.

you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

Michael Adams - Replica

It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

Al Taylor - Replica

J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

Paul Briffaut - Replica

Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

Kenneth Gilbert - Replica

  • Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti a croce Phillips che tengono in posizione la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 1,5 mm

    • Una vite da 2,9 mm

  • Non cercare di inserire viti più lunghe nelle filettature segnate in rosso. Se lo fai puoi danneggiare irreparabilmente la scheda logica.

There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

Herbert - Replica

I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

cscarlson47shop - Replica

I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

Chris Murphy -

On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

garth libhart - Replica

You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.

oscar -

I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

hhandh - Replica

Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

Dany Castillo - Replica

That's what I was thinking.

The Wizard - Replica

I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

mark - Replica

I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

Patric - Replica

which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

MONsterHEIT - Replica

I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

whiteshephard - Replica

I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

Steve Schlotter - Replica

  • Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Nei prossimi quattro passi, assicurati di far leva solo sui connettori del cavo e non sui loro zoccoli sulla scheda logica.

  • Mentre continui a tenere aperto il pannello frontale, usa un'unghia o uno strumento di apertura per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e dell'altoparlante voce.

Why does the screen need to come off?

Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Replica

Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

Matthew Goheen - Replica

  • Stacca il connettore del cavo del pulsante home.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Accertati che la batteria non sia collegata prima di connettere o disconnettere il cavo in questo passo.

  • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per staccare il connettore del cavo dati del display.

  • Nel rimontare il telefono, il cavo dati del display può far saltare via il proprio connettore. Se accade, nel riaccendere il telefono il display potrebbe avere linee bianche o non presentare alcuna immagine. In questo caso devi solo ricollegare il cavo e riavviare il telefono; per il riavvio l'ideale è staccare e riattaccare il connettore della batteria.

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

Gianni - Replica

how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

Teresa Trevino - Replica

If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Infine, stacca il connettore del cavo del digitizer.

  • Quando ricolleghi il cavo del digitizer, non fare pressione sul centro del connettore. Premi prima da un'estremità e poi dall'altra. Premendo nel centro del connettore potresti piegare il componente e provocare danni al digitizer.

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

cscarlson47shop - Replica

When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

cscarlson47shop - Replica

I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

mattmay002 -

Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

Karen Jones - Replica

I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

Henry A -

could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

ChiangFeng - Replica

To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

Robert Liles - Replica

I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

Albert Einstein - Replica

Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

richard - Replica

  • Rimuovi il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

Marvin Ballard - Replica

How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

Shamil Bhatti -

The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

jeffxtechs - Replica

I think you mean Step 8 :)

Jeff Suovanen -

How do you disconnect the battery

I tried it once and

Brian - Replica

And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

Oh I get it… they got him! :(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

domarius -

When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

GERARD SZAREK - Replica

  • Stacca il cavo di connessione del motore di vibrazione dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger.

Both on my original and on my replacement, there was adhesive on the underside of this connector and it blended in with the color of the speaker (instead of being gray, as in the photo), so that it looked like it was attached to the speaker itself. In reality, it is part of the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly that is being replaced and that is stuck to the case (cf. steps 34–38). If yours is similar, go ahead and peel it off of the top of the speaker now, and the speaker will come right out when you get to that step.

grabauski - Replica

  • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per scollegare il cavo di interconnessione dell'antenna dalla sua presa sulla scheda logica.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Afferra il cavo di interconnessione dell'antenna con delle pinzette e sfilalo delicatamente dal suo canale sul gruppo vibratore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips #00 da 2,5 mm che fissano il motore di vibrazione al case posteriore.

These two screws are stuck on my phone. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening them. The heads are becoming stripped the more i try to take them out. I appreciate any suggestions

tony aviles - Replica

if you have some spare crummy screwdrivers - like the kind that come with the replacement screens - you can try supergluing it. You just have to be super careful and not get glue anywhere else. make sure you have the screwdriver set in the screw as snugly as possible and let it sit a day or two before you gently try to unscrew it. You can google that method.

Sarah Ybarra - Replica

There's a few common methods for this issue.First let me say that not all the screw heads are the EXACT SAME SIZE.You strip the screws when you use a driver that is too small so let's get that out of the way first so that you don't have this problem in the future.

Now,Method one: use a rubberband

Method two: A brass Penelope or the higher end kind,Not the little black ones that come in common kits but the ones that come with slightly better kits for example they are usually orange.You must first try constant firm very firm that is,pressure when extracting.You want to basically gouge a pentelope head into the screw,if head on fails then go to an angle after that.Be extremely careful with this method as it's better than the rubberband and I find it's always worked for me,You gotta remain careful when doing this or you might end up slipping and causing catastrophic damage to the board.

GoodLuck

Vegeta Barrett - Replica

  • Rimuovi il vibratore dall'iPhone.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Afferra con una pinzetta il connettore dell'antenna e inizia a sfilarlo con cautela dal suo canale sull'altoparlante.

I suggest adding in an advisory to "carefully apply pressure against the metal channel that is holding down the antenna cable", because if you just de-rout only handing the cable, the cable snags against the metal channel and in my case has split the cable covering open by half an inch on my iPhone 6 Plus.

***edit*** Suggest adding Step 25 into Step 24

Jamie LB - Replica

  • Per sfilare completamente il connettore dell'antenna, può essere necessario tirare delicatamente indietro la clip metallica che lo fissa al gruppo dell'altoparlante.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips #00 che fissano l'altoparlante al case posteriore:

    • Una vite da 2,3 mm

    • Una vite da 2,8 mm

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva l'altoparlante e rimuovilo dall'iPhone.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips #00 che fissano la staffa metallica al gruppo del connettore Lightning.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Usa delle pinzette per sollevare e rimuovere dall'iPhone la staffa.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il cavo di connessione dell'antenna dalla sua presa sul gruppo del connettore Lightning.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva il connettore dell'antenna e rimuovilo dall'iPhone.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips #00 che ancorano il gruppo del connettore Lightning al case posteriore:

    • Due viti da 3,2 mm

    • Una vite da 3,8 mm

    • Due viti da 1,7 mm

    • Due viti da 1,5 mm

    • Due viti da 1,4 mm

There were 3x1.4 and a single 1.5 that was in the top right, which makes sense in regards to the frame location.

Crav - Replica

I don't have the 3.8mm for that spot. Just double checking on of that's the correct size

Sare - Replica

  • Usa delle pinzette per afferrare la clip in plastica posizionata a destra del jack cuffie e rimuovila dall'Phone.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Il prossimo passo richiede di staccare il cavo del connettore Lightning e del jack cuffie che è attaccato all'interno del case posteriore con un adesivo a bassa tenacità. Raccomandiamo caldamente l'uso di un iOpener per riscaldare dal retro la parte inferiore del case posteriore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Usa un plettro di apertura per separare lentamente il cavo del connettore Lightning e del jack cuffie dal case posteriore.

  • Con delicatezza, infila il plettro sotto il lato destro del cavo del connettore Lightning e del jack cuffie e fai attenzione a fermarti non appena hai raggiunto il fondo.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Inserisci il plettro sotto il lato inferiore destro del cavo del connettore Lightning e del jack cuffie.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attraverso la parte alta del cavo del connettore Lightning e del jack cuffie per staccare l'adesivo che lo fissa al case posteriore.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Solleva dall'iPhone il cavo del connettore Lightning e del jack cuffie e rimuovilo.

  • Prima di installare o sostituire il gruppo del connettore Lightning:

    • Usa uno strumento di plastica per eliminare tutti i pezzi di adesivo rimasti sul case posteriore dietro il cavo.

    • Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con l'originale per verificare eventuali differenze. Potresti trovare una guarnizione di gomma attaccata al vecchio jack cuffie; se necessario, questa parte deve essere trasferita sul nuovo componente.

    • Controlla bene la parte di ricambio e poi stacca eventuali pellicole o astucci protettivi prima dell'installazione.

When reassembling, the new part had a bunch of little blue tabs where I had to reveal the adhesive. It would be worth an explicit step description explaining which blue tabs to remove and which to leave, as well as which end to start with (seat the headphone jack first, then line up the screw holes across the bottom edge, etc.) I panicked when I seated the jack and it looked like the screw holes didn't line up, before I realized I had to bend the connector to the jack to make the rest of it fit properly.

cscarlson47shop - Replica

On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Tommy Beaulieu - Replica

Yeah.  Thank yu.

Douglas Trout -

My new assembly was missing a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack and a small plastic spacer glued to the microphone. These had to be salvaged from the old assembly. Both are easy to loose once removed from the old assembly! Also all of the tabs (blue and yellow) have to be removed to activate the adhesive they are protecting. This should be noted in the instruction steps.

Bob Haworth - Replica

I completely agree with Tommy and Bob as I have encountered the same issue. The little rubber piece became lost when doing the replacement. I managed to find the same little piece at an iPhone repair store where they luckily had some of extra of these and they just gave me one. Still nowhere on the internet, I can seem to find a proper transfer video of this little rubber part. It would be very helpful to add the steps in the replacement.

Varol Keskin - Replica

totally agree with the comments above! thanks so much for pointing that out. i would have lost it. please add this to the replacement guide!

Knrd - Replica

Iv’e seen this happen a few times as well so I just wanted to post a comment about it. The mic ribbon is very thin and if you do not gently separate the mic from the frame there is a chance that the ribbon will tear. It does not take much force for that ribbon to tear.

Wesley Savaloja - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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I did this tonight, took about 45 min. I used my iFixit tool kit to all the work.

When putting it back together I had an issue with my screen going all "white lines", turns out it was just a loose connection on the digitizer cable, I lifted it and placed it again and all is good with the world.

I had to replace the assembly because I was getting feedback when making calls with headphones and no voice at all with headphones if the phone was plugged into power. Now I can do both.

Thanks so much iFixit for making this possible.

rianrachel - Replica

After fixing my headset jack successfully, people could not hear me clearly on the mic. I took it apart again today. The clip that holds the mic in place, next to the jack, had been put down too tight to the mic, which kept it from moving enough to pick sound up clearly -- everything was muddied. I only had to pull the case open a little, unscrew the mic assembly to loosen it, wiggle it back a bit, move the mic a little to align it better with the hole, and then tighten it back down. It works beautifully now and everyone says I sound better than ever. A really easy fix, but it could have been avoided if there were instructions on putting everything back together or at least tips for little things like this.

maztec - Replica

My iphone stuck into headphone,what can i do to fix it?please help me as soon as possible

Tannaz pourian - Replica

I recently replaced the headphone jack but when I tried it out after successfully replacing it, the headphones still gave a crackling sound. Less than before but still very noticeable. Anyone have any suggestions to fix this issue?

collinwanat - Replica

Can I use this guide to replace the lightning port in an iPhone 6S?

crssnt - Replica

On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Tommy Beaulieu - Replica

Try here http://www.3cparts.com/?goods=detail&id=... I don't know if it comes with the piece you need or not but it is worth a shot.

BJ Bures -

Merci pour le tuto ! J'ai pris le temps car c'était la première fois que j'ouvrais un téléphone de ma vie mais j'y suis arrivé ! Suivez pas à pas le tutoriel et la video qui vas avec et vous réussirez à coup sur ! Merci Ifixit pour vos conseils.

hoennremi - Replica

This guide saved me hundreds of dollars. thank you for a great job putting this together!! the i fixit tools were cheap and worth every penny. my iPhone 6 Plus now can be seen by the mac and syncs music like a champ. great sound quality on speaker mode and the headphones work great. charges like brand new.

Michael Adams - Replica

just did it now it take around 25 minutes thanks so helpful page

mohamed.rashad1989 - Replica

amazing thanks so much

mohamed.rashad1989 - Replica

Just performed the repair but have 2 tiny rubber, what look like they may be vibration absorbers left. Where do they go?

Jack - Replica

Thank you iFixit for the instructions and parts. I did this within less than an hour, and all due to the other times that I repaired older models throughout the years. iFixit has been invaluable to me in resurrection of my broken phone(s). Having pulled apart an iPhone 4 a few times, and an iPhone 5, this seemed much easier in comparison. But again, this is really all due to iFixit being around this long and providing top notch instructions, even for the novice. Thank you so much!

nuklearfusion - Replica

After doing this . The phone is all black . Won't turn on at all . I don't know what is happening but the only thing that the computer is the recovery mode

osh20x - Replica

Fixed!!!

Ok, before you rush to the apple store or if brave enough, decide to do this yourself.

There are 3 small sprint loaded contacts inside the jacks, mine had some black marks on them, and there was no sound in the headphone.

Take a small piece of cotton and a straight thin tweezer or a toothpick, wet it lightly with mineral spirit, turpentine or alcohol. Stick it inside the jack and spin it/clean the contacts. Reset the phone and now it's like brand new.

They probably do the same thing at your local shop and charge you $100 bucks... The dirty best kept secret.

If the cotton ball get stock inside, don't panic. Stick the cotton in the middle and spin whatever you are using couple of rounds, the cotton will catch the tweezer, toothpick. It will also help if you slide the headphone jack along those contacts couple of times, sometime one of those spring get "stuck". Good luck!!

ck ng - Replica

If My iPhone 6 Plus syncing pins are damaged would this be the best thing for me to do by changing the lighting connector

Tevon - Replica

So Basically This is identical to an iphone 6, infact identical, except a few steps are in a different order, although those steps that are different can be performed in any order...

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DVS - Replica

I've done this before and it's a easy 45 minute fix. Just a FYI some of the antennas are stuck to the guide around the speaker so don't pull very hard with your tweezers.

JR Gonzales - Replica

I also have a a crackling left headphone after this repair.

The left ear used to be dead, but after the fix it is back but distorting and crackling heavily.

Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this?

Thank you very much

Shai Yammanee - Replica

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