Introduzione
Se il tuo trackpad guasto o deve essere rimosso per accedere più facilmente la batteria, segui questa guida.
Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria del tuo MacBook Pro prima di iniziare. Se forata inavvertitamente, una batteria al litio-ioni può dar luogo a un incendio pericoloso e incontrollabile.
Strumenti
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Accendi il tuo Mac e lancia Terminal.
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Copia e incolla seguente comando (oppure riportalo esattamente) in Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti di fissaggio del case inferiore:
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Due viti da 6,2 mm
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Quattro viti da 3,4 mm
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
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Applica una ventosa al case inferiore vicino all'area centrale-anteriore del MacBook Pro.
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Tira la ventosa quanto basta per creare una lieve fessura tra il case inferiore e lo chassis.
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Inserisci un angolo del plettro di apertura nello spazio tra la cover inferiore e lo chassis.
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Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attorno all'angolo più vicino e fino a metà circa del lato del case.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
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Inserisci il tuo plettro di apertura ancora una volta sotto il bordo anteriore del case inferiore, vicino a uno degli alloggiamenti delle viti più vicine al centro.
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Ruota con una certa forza il plettro per liberare la terza clip che fissa la cover inferiore allo chassis.
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Ripeti questa procedura vicino all'altro alloggiamento delle viti più vicine al centro per sganciare la quarta clip.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
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Tira il case inferiore con decisione verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (per allontanarlo dalla zona delle cerniere) per separare le ultime clip che fissano il case stesso.
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Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
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Rimuovi il case inferiore.
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Metti in posizione e allinea le clip scorrevoli vicino alla cerniera del display. Premi verso il basso e fai scorrere verso la cerniera la cover; lo scorrimento dovrebbe interrompersi quando le clip si sono agganciate.
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Quando le clip scorrevoli sono perfettamente agganciate e il case inferiore appare ben allineato, premi con decisione sul case inferiore per agganciare le quattro clip nascoste sottostanti. Dovresti percepire al tatto e sentire lo scatto di queste clip.
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Stacca con cautela l'ampio pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre il connettore della batteria, sul bordo della scheda logica più vicino alla batteria stessa.
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Rimuovi il nastro adesivo.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
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Stacca delicatamente il piccolo pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo dati della scheda batteria.
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Usa la punta di spudger per sbloccare, sollevandola, la piccola aletta di bloccaggio nera che trattiene il cavo nel suo connettore.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
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Usa uno spudger per sollevare con delicatezza il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria, scollegando quindi la batteria stessa.
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Solleva il connettore quanto basta perché resti separato dal suo zoccolo. Se dovesse fare contatto accidentalmente nel corso della tua riparazione, il tuo MacBook Pro si potrebbe danneggiare.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T3 per rimuovere le due viti da 1,8 mm che fissano la staffa del connettore del cavo del trackpad.
You should use T4 here as T3 will strip your screw head
For me a T4 does NOT work - I needed a T3 Torx screwdriver.
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Usa uno spudger per disconnettere il cavo a nastro del trackpad facendo leva delicatamente per sollevare il suo connettore dalla scheda logica.
If you are removing the logic board, you can skip the rest of the trackpad removal steps. Just fold the cable back out of the way and the track pad can stay in place.
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Prepara un iOpener e deponilo sopra il cavo a nastro del trackpad per circa un minuto, questo per ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa il cavo a nastro del trackpad alla parte superiore della batteria.
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Se non hai un iOpener, puoi usare un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il cavo. Il cavo deve essere caldo, ma non al punto da scottare se lo tocchi. Stai attento a non surriscaldare la batteria.
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Stacca con cautela il cavo a nastro del trackpad dalla batteria e disponilo in modo che non dia fastidio.
If you are changing the batter you don’t need to remove the logic board and you can jump to step 64. It can say you a lot of time. But there is one trick you need to do. It can be tricky getting the cable under the logic board but I ended up breaking the plastic “wall” that holds the centre battery and you can slide the cable in and just glue back the wall.
I believe at this point you skip to Step 77 if you are not using adhesive remover and not removing the logic board. Ian Jeffreys picture of the plastic "wall" is very useful.. (see comments at the end, he has the JPG posted there.)
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere le dieci viti che fissano il gruppo del trackpad:
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Due viti da 4,3 mm
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Otto viti da 5,8 mm
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Rimuovi il gruppo del trackpad.
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Stai attento a non perdere le sei piccole rondelle (due circolari e quattro rettangolari) disposte nella faccia inferiore del trackpad.
This is all you have to do. Slip the battery into your machine where the old one was, run the ribbon cables from the center battery under the motherboard, run the battery data connector to its very sensitive connection to the motherboard, screw in two other screws to hold the battery “chip” in place, screw in the pancake screw and you’re good. There’s no need to remove the motherboard for this installation.
Why need to Remove the trackpad assembly? For what?
I wish I had read what others said here and watched other videos on youtube. This guide is a disaster. You will end up destroying your logic board. Why this idiot did it this way I can’t under stand. Thanks for nothing you &&^&. I’m having to replace my entire logic board. I could just as easily slipped the old battery cable out from under the logic board. Grrrrrrr. Your guide is $@$* and was so difficult to put everything back together. My fan runs continuously at full speed.
I have to agree I’m using the floss method and not removing the motherboard I did this with a 2012 and a 2013 retina MacBook Pro when changing batteries and those computers are still going strong
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Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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2 Commenti
Great guide. Thanks for posting. One thing it assumes however, is that the replacement trackpad you’re using came with a data cable (i.e. there is no Step 23 regarding removing the data cable from the old trackpad and re-using it). I’m not sure if it’s always been this way, but the replacement trackpads iFixit sells now for this laptop do not come with a data cable. I had to re-use the data cable from the old trackpad. It wasn’t too difficult to pull the cable up and out of the connector on the old trackpad, and there is no locking tab or anything to flip up to remove it. But it was hard to get the cable back into the connector on the new trackpad with the left over adhesive and the angle of the connector. I was able to get it connected after a few careful attempts, and the trackpad works after re-assembly. Maybe in the past, the replacement trackpads iFixit sold came with a new data cable attached, but it’s worth noting that they currently do not, and you have to supply one.
there is no locking tab or anything to flip up to remove it
Actually, the grey bar is a locking tab-the cable might work if you just pull it/shove it in, but do yourself a favor and flip it up with a spudger like other locking tabs. I tried shoving it but neither the touchpad or keyboard worked when i did that
Spider -
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
lamajr - Replica
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Replica
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Replica
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Replica
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Replica
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Replica
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Replica
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Replica
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Replica
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Replica
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Replica
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'
to display the current state, the default istrue
- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=false
which turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Replica
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Replica
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Replica
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Replica
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Replica
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd
(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Replica
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Replica
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Replica