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Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire un gruppo schermo rotto o guasto.

  1. Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti:
    • Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti:

    • Tre viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 14,4 mm

    • Tre viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm

    • Quattro viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm con spallamento

    • Quando sostituisci le viti più piccole, allineale perpendicolarmente alla lieve curvatura del case (non vanno giù verticalmente).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Replica

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Replica

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Replica

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Replica

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Replica

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Replica

  2. Usa le dita per rimuovere il case inferiore dal corpo del MacBook, in prossimità della presa d'aria. Rimuovi il case inferiore.
    • Usa le dita per rimuovere il case inferiore dal corpo del MacBook, in prossimità della presa d'aria.

    • Rimuovi il case inferiore.

  3. Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Potrebbe essere utile fare leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per agevolarne l'estrazione.
    • Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Potrebbe essere utile fare leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per agevolarne l'estrazione.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Replica

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Replica

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Replica

  4. Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non venga collegato accidentalmente durante le operazioni.
    • Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non venga collegato accidentalmente durante le operazioni.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Replica

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Replica

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Replica

  5. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo a nastro AirPort/Bluetooth dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo a nastro AirPort/Bluetooth dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - Replica

  6. Tira delicatamente il cavo della fotocamera per estrarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
    • Tira delicatamente il cavo della fotocamera per estrarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Tira il cavo parallelamente al piano della scheda logica. Se lo tiri verso l'alto, potresti danneggiare la scheda logica o il cavo stesso.

    Be extremely careful on step 6 with late 2011 model unibody macbooks! The cable is connected very tightly to the board and has a great chance of ripping if you just pull the cable.

    Tim Rauls - Replica

    My cable is broken, have the part number or code to buy?

    VÍCTOR RIFFO - Replica

    I found there was plenty of length in the camera cable (as it goes around two sides of the optical drive) so does not need to be disconnected - just ease it out of the slot alongside the drive and lay it diagonally across.

    Nic Blinston - Replica

  7. Sposta con delicatezza da una parte il cavo a nastro AirPort/Bluetooth mentre stacchi il cavo della fotocamera dall'adesivo che lo fissa al subwoofer e alla staffa del gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth. Sfila il cavo della fotocamera da sotto la linguetta di posizionamento integrata nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.
    • Sposta con delicatezza da una parte il cavo a nastro AirPort/Bluetooth mentre stacchi il cavo della fotocamera dall'adesivo che lo fissa al subwoofer e alla staffa del gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Sfila il cavo della fotocamera da sotto la linguetta di posizionamento integrata nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

    Take a few phone close-ups of this corner of your system prior to disassembly. Extra photos really help during reassembly.

    airshack - Replica

  8. Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda  AirPort/Bluetooth il connettore di antenna più vicino alla scheda logica. Sfila il cavo di antenna dalla linguetta di posizionamento integrata nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.
    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth il connettore di antenna più vicino alla scheda logica.

    • Sfila il cavo di antenna dalla linguetta di posizionamento integrata nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

  9. Usando lo stesso metodo descritto nel passo precedente, scollega i tre connettori di antenna rimasti. Sfila questi cavi dai passaggi ritagliati nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.
    • Usando lo stesso metodo descritto nel passo precedente, scollega i tre connettori di antenna rimasti.

    • Sfila questi cavi dai passaggi ritagliati nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

    I found re-attaching these antennae connectors the trickiest bit by far as they appear very delicate and seating them correctly was fiddly. In the end lighting them from the side with a small torch helped to check their position before gently pushing them down. The first one made a clicking sound as it connected, the other two went on silently. MBP wifi working perfectly now. I’m fairly sure that was at least £100 of labour had I taken it in for repair so thanks ifixit for saving me money and for the warm glow of accomplishment!

    Andrew - Replica

    Actually, on my repair attempt, one antenna cable broke (on the image the bottom right one in the red square), I’m not sure whether it broke already before or was morbid somehow. Fact is. suddenly I had this cable in my fingers, and was sure I completely broke the macbook and need to find a new display now.

    But as it turned out: the Mac is still fully working, including WIFI, BT, Camera etc. So apart from my huge relief, I want to address that these cables may break easily at their connection with the display. And that one antenna might be not mandatory for WIFI to work.

    huedrant - Replica

  10. Rimuovi le cinque viti a croce seguenti:
    • Rimuovi le cinque viti a croce seguenti:

    • Due lunghe 10,3 mm

    • Due lunghe 3,1 mm

    • Una lunga 5 mm

  11. Tira verso l'alto il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer, sollevandoli vicino al centro della parte laterale del disco ottico, finché le due parti saranno libere l'una dall'altra.
    • Tira verso l'alto il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer, sollevandoli vicino al centro della parte laterale del disco ottico, finché le due parti saranno libere l'una dall'altra.

  12. Rimuovi il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth, facendo attenzione al fragile contatto dell'antenna vicino all'angolo del case superiore.
    • Rimuovi il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth, facendo attenzione al fragile contatto dell'antenna vicino all'angolo del case superiore.

  13. Rimuovi due delle tre viti Torx T8 lunghe 6 mm che fissano il lato destro dello schermo al case superiore.
    • Rimuovi due delle tre viti Torx T8 lunghe 6 mm che fissano il lato destro dello schermo al case superiore.

    • Ti abbiamo fatto appositamente lasciare al suo posto una vite di collegamento tra il display e il case superiore per favorire l'esecuzione dei passi successivi.

  14. Afferra la linguetta di estrazione di plastica collegata all'elemento di bloccaggio del cavo dati dello schermo e ruotalo verso il lato del computer con l'ingresso dell'alimentazione. Tira fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo dati del display. Non tirare verso l'alto il cavo dati, perché il suo zoccolo è molto fragile. Tira il cavo parallelamente al piano della scheda logica.
    • Afferra la linguetta di estrazione di plastica collegata all'elemento di bloccaggio del cavo dati dello schermo e ruotalo verso il lato del computer con l'ingresso dell'alimentazione.

    • Tira fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica il cavo dati del display.

    • Non tirare verso l'alto il cavo dati, perché il suo zoccolo è molto fragile. Tira il cavo parallelamente al piano della scheda logica.

    This was the hardest part for me. It took me a bit to figure out what parts were the socket and which was the cable and where were they going to separate. What I did was gently twist the pull tab on the cable in a clockwise direction. This allowed me to see a small separation between the socket and cable. At that point I knew what side of the pull tab I had to use a little pressure on, to continue to wiggle the cable free.

    Eric Olson - Replica

    Eric Olson’s comment helped me a lot. I couldn’t figure out how to go about it until I read his comment. Thanks

    oladim - Replica

  15. Rimuovi le due viti a croce seguenti: Una vite lunga 8,6 mm
    • Rimuovi le due viti a croce seguenti:

    • Una vite lunga 8,6 mm

    • Una vite lunga 5,5 mm

    • Rimuovi dal case superiore l'elemento che tiene in posizione il cavo dello schermo.

    When putting the display case back together, I found it MUCH easier to reinsert the display cable before screwing back in the data cable retainer. It did require me angling my screwdriver to get the rightmost screw in, but it was not too difficult. It certainly made it much easier to reinsert the display cable since I had more freedom to maneuver it back into position. Hope this help others. God Bless!

    eSavior - Replica

  16. Rimuovi il pezzo di nastro in schiuma che copre le viti dello schermo vicino alla scheda della presa di alimentazione MagSafe.
    • Rimuovi il pezzo di nastro in schiuma che copre le viti dello schermo vicino alla scheda della presa di alimentazione MagSafe.

  17. Rimuovi due delle tre viti Torx T8 lunghe 6 mm che fissano il lato sinistro dello schermo al case superiore.
    • Rimuovi due delle tre viti Torx T8 lunghe 6 mm che fissano il lato sinistro dello schermo al case superiore.

    • Ti abbiamo fatto appositamente lasciare al suo posto una vite di collegamento tra il display e il case superiore per favorire l'esecuzione dei passi successivi.

  18. Apri il tuo MacBook Pro in modo che lo schermo sia perpendicolare al case superiore.
    • Apri il tuo MacBook Pro in modo che lo schermo sia perpendicolare al case superiore.

    • Disponi il tuo MacBook Pro aperto su un tavolo nella posizione illustrata.

    • Sostenendo insieme lo schermo e il case superiore con la mano sinistra, rimuovi la vite Torx T8 ancora presente nel supporto inferiore dello schermo.

  19. Poni una particolare attenzione a tenere sia lo schermo sia il case superiore con la mano sinistra, altrimenti una delle due parti potrebbe cadere e danneggiarsi.
    • Poni una particolare attenzione a tenere sia lo schermo sia il case superiore con la mano sinistra, altrimenti una delle due parti potrebbe cadere e danneggiarsi.

    • Rimuovi l'ultima vite Torx T8 rimasta a collegare il display e la scocca superiore.

  20. Afferra con la mano destra il case superiore e ruotalo lievemente verso la parte superiore dello schermo in modo che il supporto superiore del display si liberi dal bordo del case superiore. Ruota lievemente lo schermo per allontanarlo dal case superiore. Solleva lo schermo verso l'alto e lontano dalla scocca, facendo attenzione a staffe o cavi che potrebbero impigliarsi nel corso dell'operazione.
    • Afferra con la mano destra il case superiore e ruotalo lievemente verso la parte superiore dello schermo in modo che il supporto superiore del display si liberi dal bordo del case superiore.

    • Ruota lievemente lo schermo per allontanarlo dal case superiore.

    • Solleva lo schermo verso l'alto e lontano dalla scocca, facendo attenzione a staffe o cavi che potrebbero impigliarsi nel corso dell'operazione.

    I used this guide to tighten the hinges; screen was all wobbly because the four screws that hold the screen in place had worked themselves loose. Surprised that getting at the screws required the full removal of the display. One thing that's helpful in putting it all together is in regard to adjusting the position of the hinges; with the screws loose, there is a lot of play in the hinges, and if you just torque them down, the lid won't fit right. I snugged up the screws then put the display back in place on the body & inserted one screw into each side, then loosened the hinge screws to align the screen. That has to happen before replacing the black plastic cover over the bottom edge of the display.

    davidgthornton - Replica

    My Macbook Pro developed a severe wobble in the display so I took it in to the Genius bar to see what could be done. They told me that fixing it would involve replacing the whole display because the problem is due to a piece of plastic inside breaking off. I suspected it just needed to have the hinge screws tightened so I brought my laptop home and gave it a go using this guide. Well, it turns out I was right! The Torx screws joining the hinges to the the display had come loose at both sides. To fix this, I got the hinges lined up straight on the display and tightened them down. To attatch the hinges to the body, I tightened one screw on each side half way and closed the display to line it up with the body. I then proceeded then to tighten all of the Torx screws on the body. Thank you for the great guide, Philip! I love this site!

    gilded yak - Replica

    Might be a dumb question but can I swap screens from a broken MacBook Pro to the my working one (both same model)

    Manny 3s - Replica

    Yes, you can

    maccentric -

    When separating the display, be crazy careful with those tiny WiFi antenna wires you undid in step 9. One of mine came apart with almost no force whatsoever. If you do break one, reroute them when reassembling so that ports J0 and J2 on the Airport card have good connections. That’ll retain your laptop’s ability to connect to 5GHz WiFi if you’re unable to replace the entire antenna assembly.

    Taylor Rhodes - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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16.086 Guide realizzate

Just wanted to say thanks for the website, and easy to follow instructions! I just successfully replaced my girlfriends Macbook Pro screen today:)

Glenn - Replica

This display assembly will fit into an 13 in - Early 2011 macbook pro?

Kike Sr - Replica

No the connector in the logic board/video cable is slightly different.

Sean Istre -

Yeah! I did it. I had to use two different guides todo thelcd screen.but my MacBook is clear and no giant black crack. The mid 2012 "glass". Is plastic...just saying.

cris99502 - Replica

Can you give us a link to the two other guides?

Lukas Speck -

My replacement display for this fix came with the display in a closed folded position, any suggestions for rotating the display clutches on the newly purchased screen so that I can manage to work it into place?

Matthew McCormack - Replica

Stick a screwdriver through the holes in the mounting brackets to give you enough leverage to twist them when the screen is removed.

WarfelWorks Studios - Replica

Technically the screen should work: both are driven via LVDS connector that look identical, both use the intel 4000 graphics chip.

However, the hinges screw position are in different positions. So, unless someone finds a way to fit the mid-2012 hinges onto the late-2012 screen assembly, then the next step would be to manually dismantle the screens and graft the late-2012 matrix inside the mid-2012 enclosure. Great to try if you have a few hundred bucks to burn.

cubytus - Replica

My girlfriend just bought a 2012 macbook pro and the little plastic on the bottom seems to pop out of place slightly and it’s a little annoying does anyone know a fix for this seems simple but i don’t wanna touch the computer till i’m sure

William Marrero - Replica

If you’re referring to the plastic bezel on the bottom of the display, the bezel is attached to the display assembly so if it is loose you’ll likely need to pop the display off the main chassis and reseat the bezel. You may be able to reseat the bezel without doing this but it will be a lot easier to fix it if you take the display out. Just follow the guide on replacing the display and then once you have the display removed you have better access to the bezel and can then lock it in better. If you need help reseating it just look online for info on reinstalling the bezel on the display.

Alexander Young -

Just wanted to say thanks! Bought a display assembly from you kind folks and had my mac up in running in less than an hour!

Taylor Cyle - Replica

Works Perfectly Thanks Andrew! Your Awesome, and to all the guys at fix it you guys rock

Sylvain Guerinet - Replica

An easy-to-follow, pretty much stress-free repair guide! With the step-by-step breakdown, I can pause for lunch if I want to, then get back to my repair at the correct step. Thank you SO much, AOG❣️

CarolAnne LeVert - Replica

The screens from MacBook Pro 13 mid 2012 and 2011 are COMPATIBLE 100%, I already did replacement - you need to open up just a little bit the females’s connector by the sides - 0.01mm (or something). I put 2011 screen on 2012 logic board. Write me for fotos, if interested.

Hristo Karakerezov - Replica

I’m curious. I am having a “double image” issue on my 2012 MacBook Pro 13” (unibody). Would replacing the display solve this issue?

Double image: There is an exact copy of whatever is on the screen appearing just below the “real” image. A ghost, or shadow image if you will. When I connect an external monitor to the laptop no double image is seen upon the external monitor, but still is prevalent on the MacBook screen.

iannai29 - Replica

I would probably first check to make sure the cable that’s connecting your Macbook display to the main board is seated properly before exploring the expensive display replacement. You may be just looking at a faulty connection between the board and the display. Worst case scenario, the connector itself on the main board is damaged in some way resulting in the bad connection. Which would be an expensive replacement. If the cable on the display itself is damaged, you’ll need a whole new display. But determining any of this is going to require testing on your part. I’d also consider the possibility the display panel itself is damaged as well.

Richard Young -

I took my screen off my macbook to tighten the hinges because it became loose. After I reassembled and turned on the machine, the screen no longer works. One mistake I made during disassembly was not disconnecting the power cable and I accidentally hit the power button while working on the machine. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it.

ralph - Replica

Hi

I have a MacBook Pro 13-Inch "Core i5" 2.5 Mid-2012 Specs.

Recently I changed my default HDD to the SDD and also replaced one of the default 2GB rams with an 8GB ram. (now the system totally have 10GB )

after turning up the laptop I saw some light which known as “stage light”.

Also, I tried to reconnect the LVDS cable, which is located between the fan and the edged of the body, however, “stage lights” are still there

ali - Replica

Gracias, realíce el cambio de la batería y me quedo increíble, gracias

Raul farias - Replica

anywhere suggestions where to buy replacement screen (model A1278) in EU?

Rasmus Nygaard - Replica

Hi, There. My mid. 2012 MB Pro’s screen is broken and i have that one of an 2011. Is it possible to replace it with the older one? Also same thing witht the DVD drive? In the isntructions everything looks exacly the same.

Help is much appreciated, Thanks!

Canoob - Replica

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