Difficoltà
Moderato
Passi
15
Tempo Necessario
45 minuti - 1 ora
In Lavorazione
Questa guida è un work in progress. Ricarica periodicamente per vedere le ultime modifiche!
Guida In Evidenza
Questa guida è stata giudicata eccezionalmente ben fatta dallo staff iFixit.
Introduzione
Sostituisci il disco per aumentare lo spazio di memorizzazione.
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Far aderire una ventosa accanto a ciascuno dei due angoli superiori del pannello di vetro.
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Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.
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Sollevare il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro.
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Estrarre il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e riporlo da parte con attenzione.
What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?
Microfiber Cloth
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Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T10 da 8 mm che fissano il display al case esterno.
The metal near the screws is VERY magnetic. Honestly, the hardest and by far most frustrating step was trying to put these screws back in.
I ran into the same problem - easily the most frustrating part of this process. To help deal with it, I took a drinking straw, cut it to be about 2 inches long, and used it as a chute to guide the screw to the hole. Dropping the screw down the straw, it'd still stick to the side due to the magnets, but using my screwdriver, it was easy to push the screw down to where it needed to go, and the straw kept the screw from being pulled out of place by the magnets.
josh -
Hmm… yes, the magnets sucks - literally. But if you use a normal screwdriver or a bit, the screwdriver tip or the bit can be “loaded” by the magnets too. Just move the screwdriver (or bit) over one of the magnets and then “plug” the screw onto the screwdriver’s tip (or bit). It will be held by magnetic force. Just enough to move the screw vertically and very slowly into the whole.
There are some special screwdriver on the market with “claws” to hold screws, but they are hard to find/to buy and expensive. I sometimes use superglue (a LITTLE) to temporary fasten the screw at the screwdrivers tip. This technique can be used with destroyed screw heads too to optimize adhesion.
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Sollevare leggermente il bordo superiore del display dal case esterno.
The harddisk can be removed WITHOUT the next steps. The opening angle of the partially lifted LCD display gives enough room to untighten the two Torx T9 screws of the hard disk bracket, to unplug the two SATA connectors and to carefully lift out the harddisk. There is absolutely no need to dismantle the whole thing.
All you need is a screwdriver which fits into the room. I’ve used the “Pro Tech Toolkit” from iFixit. The screwdriver with Torx T9 bit fits perfectly.
The other “tool” you need is either someone who holds the LCD plate or the inner leftover of a kitchenroll, a scrunched paper, a small towel or similar which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to keep the LCD at its lifted place (careful! don’t unplug any of the cables).
I’ve opened and changed the harddisks of those 21,5 iMacs a dozen times with the help of the “Pro Tech Toolkit” and a kitchen roll.
If i want to replace the HD with a SSD, can i still skip the next steps? I think i can’t because i need to change the termal censor, but i would like an other opinion please.
Danois -
“Kitchen Roll” - paper towel core.
kyoder11 -
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Prendere la linguetta di plastica fissata al blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotarla verso l'alto.
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Estrarre il cavo dati del display direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica.
I am having a difficult time reattaching the LCD cable. A better description or any tips would be useful here.
Me too — ditto that.
https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI... —> abt. 5:30 into the vid. Handle up to slide in, then flip it down to lock the connector in place.
The connector needs to be carefully pushed in parallel to the board with a surprising amount of pressure and the pull tab must be folded back. Not super fragile, but not strong either.
I really wish that the fagility of this connector was mentioned in Step 10 or 11.. When i rotated the screen on step 11.. It pulled this connector out and now I can't get it back in.. I hate computers.. HA!
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Scollegare il connettore del cavo del sensore termico dell'LCD dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.
The replacement hard drive I used doesn't even appear to spin up and the Time Capsule restore process doesn't show it as available. It just stays at Searching for disks and never finds it.
I had to use Disk Utility to partition the drive and then it showed fine. Rookie mistake.
JRBv3 -
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Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 da 9 mm che fissano la staffa superiore del disco rigido al case esterno.
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Scollegare i connettori SATA di alimentazione e dati dai rispettivi connettori femmina, estraendo ciascuno di essi dal disco rigido.
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Rimuovi le due viti Torx T8 che fissano la staffa superiore al disco rigido.
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Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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54 Commenti
Hi guys, the tools arrived today and I did already chage the default harddisk against the WD Velociraptor 500GB. For now everything is working fine. The iMac is in the middle of restoring the time maschine backup. Everything worked out as described. Excellent! I was just a little surprised by the magnetic forces which one needs to overcome gently...
Is there a temp sensor that monitors the HD? I did the upgrade but now my fan is always on. I must've done something wrong.
Did you use the same brand hard drive? Did check the instructions about cable orientation on the hard drive? Did you double check the LCD thermal sensor cable?
Take a glance at this page for full explanations:
http://www.hddfancontrol.com/imac-hard-d...
I had the same issue here (after replacing the original HDD by a 1TB WB Caviar Blue) and it has been fixed by this utility.
HTH,
In response to the software, that does work, however, it can be taken care of hardware wise if our recommendations are followed.
Hi, I'm no stranger to upgrading my Macs (been doing it since 1989). I've followed this guide too since the inside of my '11 iMac is a little less upgrade friendly and my fans spin up afterward as well even if the computer is just sitting there idle. I replaced my factory internal 500GB WD drive with a 2TB WD drive. It doesn't take long before my fans start to spin up. I've checked and rechecked all of the cable attachments. What else could I be doing wrong? What are your referenced recommendations that take care of this with a hardware solution? My best find so far is a donation based version of the above mentioned S.M.A.R.T. tool (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).
sash5 -
Thank you iFixit, another successful repair. Upgraded 1TB hard drive to 2TB, no issues at all.
I have been using iFixit for years, so thank you very much for these guides. Invaluable!
But, I have one question.....
It seems that when I replace the HDD, often the microphone goes dead or bad. I never touch the microphone, never touch those cables, so is there any idea why this would happen or what I can do to repair/recover?
I saw one iFixit guide which showed how to replace the microphone, but it gave no source for the part..... help!
This took me about 15 minutes. Watch step 7 the most; that display data cable is fragile, and you're going to need good lighting to see it.
If you're installing an SSD, you'll definitely need an adapter for it so it seats properly in the iMac's shell. I bought a Newer Technology AdaptaDrive 2.5" to 3.5" Drive Converter Bracket for $14, and it's of excellent build quality. Fits like a glove in there.
Finally, your fan is going to spin up like crazy after your first boot. Don't freak out just yet; follow these instructions after you've turned your computer on (from http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964):
1. Shut down the computer.
2. Unplug the computer's power cord.
3. Wait fifteen seconds.
4. Attach the computer's power cord.
5. Wait five seconds, then press the power button to turn on the computer.
Edit: That didn't work, but a free application called ssdfanctrl did. Installed, restarted, set to "SMART" control and... completely silent. http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl
SSDFanControl doesn't work, at least for me on El Capitan. I've seen other complaints about this too.
Glenn -
Actually pretty easy install of SSD HD. Ordered the Newertech converter bracket and bought the fan control: http://www.hddfancontrol.com/imac-hard-d...
My wife had a couple of great ideas to keep lint and dust down: Use newspaper to set the glass and LCD on (then cover with newspaper) because it is very clean, wear powder free latex gloves to avoid hand oils contaminating computer.
Thanks again iFixit! My iMac is much faster.
Yesterday I replaced my internal Seagate 500GB with a Seagate 2TB hybrid hard drive without any issues. Was expecting tør fans to speed up due to failing harddisk hardware temperatur check, but everything runs normal :-) improved El capitan startup time from 56 secs to 32 secs. Very happy for this guide
I would to do the same replacement. Did you purchase the Seagate SSHD 2TB drive (ST2000DX001)? Did it have an Apple logo? And did you have to buy an additional thermal sensor to keep the fans from spinning? Any reccos would help.
dmindel -
Part the First:
Replaced 2428 internal WD 500GB with a Seagate 1TB hybrid hard drive yesterday. Couple of years ago, put in a SanDisk 128 SSD with IFixit hard drive.
My issues with the earlier installation were: 1. bent / broke display data plug teeth twice reinstalling —ambient light, case slipping, fat hand all contributory factors. (Repair guy had to finish it for me — $150.00 plus 2 extra cables.) 2. 128 SSD kept running out of space, was corrupted regularly. Constantly had to use Disk Utility and then MacPaw CleanMyMac 3 to jolly it along. Two different configurations, first I paid for (guy told me Fusion Drive wasn't really necessary), second I got off line about 6 months ago. Problems decreased but never went away. Reminded me of my 1966 USAF experience with a giant room-sized Univac — it was down about half the time.
Part the Second:
Anyway, I girded my loins for this latest foray into the guts of my 'puter. Lots of research, but I can never lock in a complete step-by-step list of parts, changes to SUDO, etc. So I'm glad to report that my girlfriend showed up at the end of the day with steady, small hands to hold lights and reconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable (my day was spent straightening the tiny pin on the right without breaking it — although the metal cover on LCD plug bent backwards, then broke) and then she helped with that pesky Display Data Plug — angle of insertion, that pull tab and a sinking lack of perception about whether it's seated properly being my previous downfall.
Part the Third:
OK, my recent experiences:
1. Note to self: Losing 2 T10 8mm Torx screws for reassembly not real brilliant.
2. Fan speed flat out ("SMART" button didn't show up for me using that first recommended utility, but turning iMac off, unplug, waiting etc, then reboot worked - fan still seems noisy but it's not constant.
3. Make a Fusion Drive of your SSD + HDD with Terminal —
A. diskutil list —> to find the mount points for both drives;
B. diskutil coreStorage create FUSION /dev/disk# /dev/disk# —> where # stands for those two different mount points;
C. diskutil coreStorage createVolume lvgUUID jhfs+ “Fusion HD” 100% —> where lvgUUID = that big long serial number that showed up after the last command; AND FINALLY
D. sudo trimforce enable ... WOW!
UberSanDisk was fast before, but FUSION HD 100% SCREAMS.
Thank you sooo much for this guide !! It saved my iMac after my hard drive crashed. I was able to skip 5, 6, 7 and 8. Because when you are lifting up the display, your elbow can hold it up, while you unscrew the drive and take the Sata cables off. I replaced my drive with an original Apple drive, just 500 GB for testing, but as mentioned so many times before, fans fans fans. So for a short temp time I used Macs Fan Control ( http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont... ) instead of the HDD control, not only the charge factor, but its temp, not permanent. I will replace it with Seagate SSHD hybrid drive, if still needed then, get OWC for fan control. Awesome page, thank you soo much. I was kinda lost before, now I have the knowledge, what was wrong and more important, fix it myself and not some shop who charges outrages $$$$$$.
maybe i have a big arm but i pulled out the data cable, the power cable out of their sockets when I held it with my elbow, and not knowing that I screwed everything back in and turned on the imac - bang, black screen.
took me an hour to refix everything and now it's finally back to normal...
Bruce -
Not a hard install to do - I just ran into the same issues already mentioned here:
- The magnets on the side of the casing really do make working with screws a pain. I ended up using a pair of tweezers to aid me but the suggested above idea of using a straw as a guide is genius!
- You really do need 2 people to safely disconnect the 4 cables before you remove the screen. The cables and sockets are very easy to damage, so it's much safer to have someone with 2 hands or one hand and a flashlight rather than you working with one hand while holding up the screen with the other.
- If you are installing an SSD, you will need an adapter bracket. I only realized this once I got inside my iMac. With a bracket, it's no problem at all.
I agree — data display cable design is the pits. Straw idea is good idea for seating screws near magnets — or a small screw driver with a flat magnet pickup on the back end — goes right in as well. AND... 2 people make all the difference!
- I ran into the same fan-running-at-full-speed issue after reassembly. Apparently the iMac uses the stock HD's temperature sensor, so when you switch it out it has no sensor and spins on max all the time. As mentioned above, don't pay for HDD Fan Control - use the free Macs Fan Control (http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...). If you have an SSD, you can leave the HD fan permanently set to the minimum (as they emit so little heat).
I read that on some 2009 & 2010 iMacs, the fan issue occurs when one of the cables is put back mis-orieneted. Apparently, one of the connectors can work right-side-up or upside-down, and if you get it wrong it causes the fan issue. 'Anybody know if this is true for this model iMac? Anybody tried this as a fix?
Does anyone have a list of model numbers for supported hard drives that definitely won't cause fan issues? Also, where is the best place to buy them? I have a machine with a failed HD and need to replace it. Thanks!
Hey,
Just replaced the hdd w/ a hybrid drive. Boots without a screen, and external display works fine, but it won't boot with the screen installed. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Temperature sensor.... https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI...
Can i change the hard drive with an SSD ?
Why is the universal drive adapter required?
You don't need one if you have other means of attaching your 2.5" SSD to the back wall of the iMac case (like industrial strength Velcro or 3M VHB tape), but the bracket you mount into is a 3.5" space for a full sized desktop drive and SSDs are 2.5". Thus the adapter... just to mount the drive into the bigger bracket area.
brentp -
I was quite fearful about opening my iMac, but I did it anyway, and installed a SSD instead of the dead HDD that was in it, and it works like a new computer, starting up in 20 seconds and apps open almost instantly. My only heart stopping moment was I slipped and dropped the lCD a few inches, but it was fine. Now if I could just find a way to cheaply retrofit it with USB3 or USBc it would be good for another 5 years. BTW I use a free app called Macs Fan Control which lets me use one of the other sensors to control the HD fan. A bonus is the computer is running 35° f cooler so I can't even hear the fan running around 1000rpm.
He actualizado el HD de 500 Gb de mi iMac con uno de 2 TB!!! Todo perfecto gracias a esta excelente guía. Lo más difícil fue lidiar con el polvo y la grasa de las manos. Ahora tengo una iMac más rápida!! Muchas gracias.
Anyibe gave an opinion if it's worth replacing the OEM SATA cable with one rated for SATA III? Seems like a logical step since everything is apart, but if someone can definitively tell me that the OEM cable won't degrade my SATA III drive performance I probably won't bother.
(As an aside - geez there's a lot of dust in there. Nice to clean those fans out!)
No this doesn't matter at all so don't bother doing so.
If it was the case, it wasn't the cable but the chipset of the board limiting it.
evo -
Does the drive's temperature sensor continue to work when you detach te sata power cable only?
Or does the de original hdd need sata power as well to provide the drive's temperature values to the iMac?
I'm asking because the drive is faulty and makes noise. I'm placing an ssd in the dvd bay area and don't want to use any software to control the fans.
Just to repeat my comment from step 4: you do not dismantle everything. Once the 8 Torx 10 screws from the LCD plate are untightend, the LCD plate can be lifted a few centimeters (or inches). It’s limited by the cables but the opening angle is wide enough to untighten the two hard disk bracket screws (Torx 9), to unplug the two SATA connectors and to lift out the hard disk. You need either someone holding the LCD, a third arm or anything soft like a towel or the leftover of a kitchenroll which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to hold it.
Auf Deutsch: Man braucht keine Kabel zu lösen. Einfach das LCD-Display anheben, am Ende die Papprolle aus einer Küchenrolle, ein Handtuch oder Schal reinstopfen, damit das Display so bleibt und man kann die zwei Schrauben für die HD-Halteklammer so lösen, wenn man einen Schraubendreher hat, der nicht zu lang ist. Die Festplatte bekommt man leicht heraus.
Hi Guys! The Upper Hard Drive Bracket is out of stock. I would know if this ssd’s support (of metal) is right as well. >> https://www.ollo.it/digitus-frame-hdd-ad...
Changed the original hard drive to a 1TB SSHD about 9 months ago. Bought a HD Thermal sensor (I believe it was from OWC) that properly controls the fan speed without adding any software to the iMac. Would suggest checking out their product along with the software solutions described above.
Do you really need an adapter bracket? Since the SSD is so lightweight couldn’t you just screw in one side?
I typically just use duct-tape to hold it in place.
Worth repeating here… if your replacement HD does not have a thermal sensor, the fan will run continually. The free smcFanControl app is the bees knees: http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/23049/s...
Many Many Thanks…Cristiano
As already mentioned I didn’t need to unplug any cables, just propped up the LCD panel with a plastic jar and the gap was large enough to go to Step 10 with a standard iFixit screwdriver (on a slight angle). Putting 8x Torx 10 screws back in was probably the biggest challenge but I used L tweezers to guide the screws.
I didn’t use the thermal sensor for 480GB SSD replacement but did use a $5 3.5” to 2.5” bracket, I don’t think you can get away without using one as the mount points are for 3.5” drive and would be too far apart.. unless you are happy to use just ONE (I wouldn’t).
Running vanilla 10.12.3 Sierra did not seem to make fans run loud but I still used smcFanControl app just in case.
I completed the upgrade, and only used Velcro and some bracing to secure a 2.5 ssd! Works great!
So everything seems to have worked out and i have turned it back on. However, I am not restoring from a Time Capsule, I am just trying to reinstall the OS. It looks great until it tells me to select a drive to install it on. Its like the computer doesn’t recognize the new drive. Any suggestions?
If the drive was not formatted has HFS+ by Disk Utility.app it may not be recognized by the installer. I usually format and install a system on a drive before intalling it inside the machine, but you can use Target Disk mode or maybe Internet Recovery to format it after installation.
Do I need to format the ssd? I installed the ssd and I have high Sierra on usb as well as my time machine back up. I want to clean install OS X and then restore to my back up.
Hi Richard,
You will most likely need to format the SSD, but it can be done as part of the OS installation. Check this guide out for more details.
Good luck!
imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering
please tell me the directions
thanks witting for answering .
tahir - Replica
Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.
Robert Wacker -
Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.
kctipton - Replica
Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)
See part 2 below...
Matthew Elvey - Replica
(Part 2:)
I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!
Matthew Elvey -
I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.
Matthew Elvey -
What the ???
Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...
I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.
Matthew Elvey -
I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.
cdansmith1 - Replica
Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.
MaximBorzov - Replica
You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.
Deepsurvival - Replica
That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.
Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.
max damage -
Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance
michelemiller0 - Replica
No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.
Nikolas Lintulaakso - Replica
Nails worked for me too
Rob Dale - Replica
Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.
Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.
osienna - Replica
I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul
Paul Kwiat - Replica
I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well
jc3Dcx - Replica
I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!
3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.
Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.
I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.
Good luck!
ivan birks - Replica