Salta al contenuto principale

Introduzione

Rimozione del display per la sostituzione o l'accesso ai componenti interni del computer.

    • Fai aderire una ventosa accanto a ciascuno dei due angoli superiori del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le ventose, per prima cosa posizionale con la maniglia orientabile parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro (come evidenziato nella prima e nella seconda immagine).

    • Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, solleva la maniglia orientabile finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia (come evidenziato nella terza immagine).

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, prova a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

    • Non usare le ventose per traspostare il vetro del display perché se una di esse si stacca lo schermo potrebbe cadere e rompersi.

    • La scatola originale dell'iMac e' un buon posto dove collocare il pannello di vetro. Altrimenti una superficie piana imbottita, come un asciugamano disposto sul tavolo, può andare bene.

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - Replica

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - Replica

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - Replica

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - Replica

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - Replica

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - Replica

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - Replica

    Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.

    Kieran Hobbs - Replica

    The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)

    Abirinder Brar - Replica

    good duct tape or gaffer tape wrapped around your hands makes an excellent glass removal 'tool'. Even clear packing tape works a charm.

    Stu Blair - Replica

    A great first step that minimizes that first gust of dust migration when the glass is lifted is to clean the glass, sides *and the back* before lifting the glass, and then lift SLOWLY. Most of that dust is already trapped inside and pulled up as the screen lifts, but with care you can keep it there (or gently vacuum out with a micro vac…).

    John - Replica

    before starting any of this…there is a device that you can use that comes with the IFixit kit to format and either clone or restore your hard drive to the new drive…it will save you a lot of headaches..it is a SSD enclosure that you can plug into your existing computer …

    Tom Richter - Replica

    Thanks for the instructions. Before doing this the first time, suggest to everyone, read through at least twice. This is the easiest step, as you’ll soon see. As for removing the glass, USE suction cups, either the ones the sell here, or others. DON’T skimp. Also wear gloves when handling the glass. Don’t take chances.

    ECJohansen - Replica

  1. Solleva delicatamente il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro. Estrai il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e riponilo da parte con attenzione. Non utilizzare le ventose per trasportare il pannello di vetro; se una sola perde la presa, il pannello può cadere e rompersi.
    • Solleva delicatamente il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro.

    • Estrai il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e riponilo da parte con attenzione.

    • Non utilizzare le ventose per trasportare il pannello di vetro; se una sola perde la presa, il pannello può cadere e rompersi.

    • Dopo aver posizionato il pannello di vetro in una posizione sicura, assicurati di rilasciare le ventose, perché con il tempo la forza che esercitano può rompere il vetro.

    • Durante la reinstallazione, pulisci con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e la superficie dello schermo LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'uso della macchina.

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - Replica

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - Replica

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - Replica

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - Replica

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - Replica

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - Replica

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - Replica

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

    I find that the LCD is not as fragile as we all think. they are very much like any LCD on a tv or monitor. There is no extra glass on the front of a monitor. Not the 23 HP Pro Displays I have anyway. I know this because I punctured one moving my video wall. so I took it apart to know how its put together. I will say, there are several 'lens’ like sheets and a reflective (silver} sheets that are the same size as the panel. and a 1/8”piece of acrylic, all behind the LCD panel. Take care with them and clean as you would your monitor.

    My suggestion is to stand the iMac up after the panel is secured back into the body of the iMac and clean while its vertical. took me 3 attempts before I realized that while laying flat the surface is large and collects dust with mind blowing speed.

    Stu Blair - Replica

    If the LCD glass is badly cracked and broken you need to be extra careful removing as the sharp shard of broken glass can scratch/harm the underlying screen as they may “fall in or onto” the screen below.

    I found that strategically putting sheets of 8x11 paper(s) under the sharpest, largest broken sections help protect the underlying screen. A vacuum was also helpful removing some of the small glass shards.

    Mark Hilliard - Replica

    Be advised: I did a perfect replacement of the hard drive, temperature sensor to the SSD, LCD screwed in, glass cleaned. I went to put back the final glass, I set the bottom edge in place and as I slowly moved to have the magnets take hold, they pulled the screen out of my gingerly held fingers, and smacked into place……cracking the glass! Ugh! So, on this last step, hold tight as you put the glass back in slowly. It will cost you about 40-50 bucks for a new glass (mine is on it’s way).

    R R MOOS - Replica

  2. Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T10 che fissano l'LCD al case esterno.
    • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T10 che fissano l'LCD al case esterno.

    • Stai attento a non toccare il display perché il grasso delle dita potrebbe lasciare un residuo difficile da rimuovere.

    • Se necessario, staccate le guarnizioni di tipo EMI (elettroconduttrici) vicino al bordo centrale superiore del gruppo display.

    The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

    henryhsu - Replica

    All screws were exactly the same for me.

    Michael Grace - Replica

    There were only eight screws holding the lcd in place on the sides 4X4

    Barry Gilmore - Replica

  3. Poggiare delicatamente l'iMac dal lato della staffa su una superficie piatta. A causa delle tolleranze ristrette, occorre utilizzare un attrezzo sottile e ricurvo per sollevare il display fuori dal case esterno. Come indicato nella prima immagine, ne abbiamo realizzato uno piegando una graffetta. Puoi usare anche delle pinzette a becchi angolati. Mediante un attrezzo sottile e ricurvo, sollevare un lato del bordo superiore del display dal telaio esterno in acciaio.
    • Poggiare delicatamente l'iMac dal lato della staffa su una superficie piatta.

    • A causa delle tolleranze ristrette, occorre utilizzare un attrezzo sottile e ricurvo per sollevare il display fuori dal case esterno. Come indicato nella prima immagine, ne abbiamo realizzato uno piegando una graffetta. Puoi usare anche delle pinzette a becchi angolati.

    • Mediante un attrezzo sottile e ricurvo, sollevare un lato del bordo superiore del display dal telaio esterno in acciaio.

    • Dopo aver sollevato il bordo superiore del display da un lato, tenerlo fuori dal case esterno, mentre si solleva l'altro lato tramite un attrezzo ricurvo.

    • Sollevare e trattenere il display affinché sia possibile accedere ai cavi.

    • Non sollevare il bordo superiore eccessivamente rispetto al case esterno, poiché i due componenti sono ancora collegati da diversi cavi piatti e corti.

    I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

    iandh - Replica

    This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

    Gary Kimes - Replica

    The right side was much more stuck in place then the left

    John - Replica

    It’s the fourth time I follow this guide, power supply, gpu and dual hd operations carried successfully and I feel and works munch more relaxed with the iMac laying horizontal on his back. I’m lifting the screen with two hooks at the same time, no torsion on the frame makes munch easier to lift it.

    Then I put in the corners two pieces (two short pencils do the job) of about 3 1/2”, 9 cm, to maintain lifted the screen while disconnecting the ribbons.

    Now the GPU I’ve changed in 2017 has lasted less than three years and here I am to change it again.

    Cesar Martin - Replica

    After disconnecting the first ribbon you can lift the screen more than 5”, enough to access the other ribbons easily.

    Cesar Martin - Replica

    As others have posted here, Do NOT let gravity assist you. Put the iMac on it’s back when doing the remaining steps. Also, use some type of hook to assist you in terms of lifting out the display assembly. Expect some resistance, since it does weigh a few pounds. Also, as you’ll see in the next step, you can help yourself by using something to brace it at each corner to keep it lifted. Some have suggested chop sticks, bic pens, etc. Use something approx. 4-5” in length. That will give enough clearance, and not put strain on the cables.

    ECJohansen - Replica

    To spare a paperclip, I had better to use a good needlenose plier, catch the iron frame just near the corner, and hook up.

    Stefano Vignato - Replica

  4. Scollegare il cavo della sincronizzazione verticale nell'angolo superiore sinistro dello schermo. Mediante la punta di un inseritore, premere le linguette laterali del connettore.
    • Scollegare il cavo della sincronizzazione verticale nell'angolo superiore sinistro dello schermo. Mediante la punta di un inseritore, premere le linguette laterali del connettore.

    After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

    ITSupportGuy - Replica

    Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

    Hobowan Kenobi -

    thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers

    Eric -

    Totally agree. I did exactly the same. Less chance for mistakes having to do and then undo steps 6-8 and faster and easier. The whole process was shockingly simple. Sad I waited so long.

    JLTX -

    After disconnecting the first cable, I was getting ready to disconnect the second cable when I realized that the amount of opening necessary to get to the second cable, is also sufficient to get to the hard drive, so why go the extra steps. I used a wedge I had close by to very carefully keep the screen up, to enable removing the hard drive with both hands. If you are replacing the hard drive, skip to Step 11.

    Bret -

    Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

    Alex Reynolds - Replica

    This is the answer :-) After 10 mins of faffing about on my own I read the manual (this) and this tip took less than 1 second to get the connector out. Thank you so much, me fellow workers were getting annoyed at my swearing.

    simonf -

    I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

    jonostainsby - Replica

    It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

    Daniel - Replica

    Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

    Stephen Genusa - Replica

    with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

    jason kawaja - Replica

    display propped carefully and two spudgers rocking simultaneously worked great for me to get this free.

    THEN still be careful, a small loop of tape held the cable to the back - that has to be gently pulled away to let the screen lift.

    John - Replica

    Hi do you sell new sync cables? The little plastic piece on the end that attaches to the motherboard smashed

    Jonathan - Replica

    Use either a spudger or a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the sides of the connector. Then use small needle nose pliers to disconnect the cable. It’s easier than trying to wedge your hand in there.

    ECJohansen - Replica

  5. Questo passaggio ti farà avvicinare le mani al retro esposto dell'alimentatore. Per evitare delle scosse ad alto voltaggio dai diversi condensatori ad alta capacità attaccati alla scheda, NON toccare il retro dell'alimentatore.
    • Questo passaggio ti farà avvicinare le mani al retro esposto dell'alimentatore. Per evitare delle scosse ad alto voltaggio dai diversi condensatori ad alta capacità attaccati alla scheda, NON toccare il retro dell'alimentatore.

    • Scollega il cavo della retroilluminazione LED con la mano premendo la linguetta verso il basso e facendola scorrere verso la parte inferiore del display.

    Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

    maccentric - Replica

    Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

    Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

    fabio4 - Replica

    I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

    Timo Laak -

    Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

    Thanx a bunch!

    Esteban Garcia -

    Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

    dtsai2 -

    I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

    Rita - Replica

    Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

    john -

    I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?

    Frank Stickney - Replica

    With the help of an assistant, I was able to skip steps 7 - 10 to remove the hard drive. Once you remove the cable you move the forward and up. Have your assistant hold the display and you can easily remove and replace the hard drive.

    babuckman - Replica

  6. Estrarre la linguetta nera per scollegare la chiusura nel connettore ZIF del cavo dati del display. Non estrarre con eccessiva forza, poiché il connettore e il connettore femmina potrebbero subire danni.
    • Estrarre la linguetta nera per scollegare la chiusura nel connettore ZIF del cavo dati del display.

    • Non estrarre con eccessiva forza, poiché il connettore e il connettore femmina potrebbero subire danni.

    • Scollegare il cavo dati del display tirando il connettore verso la parte inferiore del display con la linguetta nera

    i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

    LUIS - Replica

    me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

    I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

    strcarlos - Replica

    This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

    Alex Nelson - Replica

    Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

    asthomas -

    Its accurate for my Mid 2011 3.4ghz iMac so it could be different for different iMac model years.

    Chris -

    The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

    ganesh - Replica

    How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

    Brian Bowlin - Replica

    This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.

    Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.

    Jem Marsh -

    I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

    thewiseone71 - Replica

    The is a great tip

    Jem Marsh -

    I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

    lana.lawrence - Replica

    So like everyone else, I managed to screw this up. Do you remember where you picked up the replacement, or what I should look for specifically when looking for a new one? I looked on amazon, but the label on the one I found doesn’t match what is on mine.

    Thanks!

    Jeff McConnell -

    What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

    Mark Whitehead - Replica

    I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.

    randy3833 - Replica

    I messed this bit up too. It says “pull up”. As the iMac laid flat on the table, I pulled towards the ceiling, bending the pins. It should say “pull towards the top of the machine” or something.

    I managed to straighten them out with a tweezer. Looked like a couple of pins were missing at the end, but it looks ok.

    Now I have to figure out what I have done to the temperature controller, the fans blow on full speed all the time here. :)

    Thor Hammer - Replica

    Like others that have commented, this cable is a major PITA. I used both a headlamp to illuminate the area, and the iPhone’s Magnifier app to zoom in. The connector on the motherboard is flat, low profile and characterized by a thin narrow slot. The key to removing the cable is to slide the cable out, (after flipping that bar forward). Re-attaching the cable is the same - carefully sliding the cable into that slot, while keeping that bar pulled backward, until the cable was in place.

    For me, this was the most difficult part of the hard drive replacement. I spent more time on this than anything else.

    ECJohansen - Replica

  7. Utilizzare la punta di un inseritore per scollegare il cavo di alimentazione dati del display accanto al relativo cavo dati.
    • Utilizzare la punta di un inseritore per scollegare il cavo di alimentazione dati del display accanto al relativo cavo dati.

    need more description than “disconnect” here. It took my awhile to figure out that it’s was a “back toward” connector.

    John Oakley - Replica

    Thanks John, would you give a short suggestion on how to help other users to remove such a “back toward” connector to make it clearer?

    Angel -

    I broke 1 of the pins on the logic board side when reconnect. Now my iMac have no display. Not sure how to fix it.

    Need better description here with close-up photos to avoid accident like mine.

    quanghuymt - Replica

    It’s pretty simple, using ifixit IC Extractor/Connector Puller by gripping gently and carefully the tips of the connector and pull straight up towards the HDD. You can also use a spudger and gently very slowly walk it up towards the HDD.

    Chris - Replica

    I missed up the pins on display power cable. They are very very tiny and fragile.

    John Hill - Replica

    Cheat on this one. Loosen the tape on the back of the display. That gives you more slack on the cable. The connector is pretty standard.

    ECJohansen - Replica

    I could not reconnect this cable. How to put back?

    Jagat Limbu - Replica

    Jagat, it’s easier if you lift the other side of the display.

    Olivier Deschamps -

  8. Estrarre con cautela il cavo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac e sollevarlo dal case dell'iMac.
    • Estrarre con cautela il cavo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac e sollevarlo dal case dell'iMac.

    When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

    johnhugh - Replica

    do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

    find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

    Kurt L Nelson -

    FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

    1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

    2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

    zackduchene - Replica

    Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

    adrianh -

    There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

    Gary Kimes - Replica

    ESD = Electrostatic Discharge

    Gary Kimes - Replica

  9. Appoggia lo schermo a faccia in giù su una superfice piatta e morbida.
    • Appoggia lo schermo a faccia in giù su una superfice piatta e morbida.

    • Se stai sostituendo il pannello dello schermo, dovrai trasferire alcune componenti dal pannello originale su quello nuovo. Confronta il retro dello schermo originale con quello nuovo. Segnati tutti i cavi, sensori e cuscinetti in schiuma che mancano sul nuovo.

    • Se c'e un cavo sotto a del nastro adesivo, rimuovi sempre prima il nastro. Non rimuovere direttamente il cavo.

    • Se il cavo è incollato al telaio, appoggia un iOpener scaldato o usa un asciugacapelli per ammorbidire l'adesivo. Quindi puoi far scorrere un plettro sotto il cavo per liberarlo. Non tirare mai i delicati connettori.

    • Fai scorrere un plettro sotto i cuscinetti in schiuma per rimuoverli dallo schermo e tirali via delicatamente. Ti potrebbe servire del nastro biadesivo per reincollarli al nuovo schermo.

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Phillip Takahashi

Membro da: 22/08/2011

83.726 Reputazione

87 Guide realizzate

12 Commenti

For starters, thanks for this great tutorial!

I have a small question though.

What is meant by "Carefully lay the iMac stand-side down on a flat surface."

If I lay the iMac on my desk, the mount is preventing it from going completely flat.

I find the 27" quite heavy to lift and was wondering if I was doing something wrong.

Anybody have any tricks to lift the LCD without too much lifting?

Thanks!

Jeroen Klaassen - Replica

Where to buy a replacement lcd panel for a 2011 imac. Or jul.st the led with the conectors

Juanc - Replica

BUYER BEWARE!!

Good review if you were provided all the necessary connector cables on your replacement part. I bought the replacement LCD online from ifixit.com and it’s missing all connectors except the LED Backdriver cable.

This is what I pulled off my iMac.

This is what I was shipped by ifixit.

Even missing foam cushioning that protects inside components from the back of the LCD. If you’re not going to include those connectors in shipped parts, then you need to include how to remove them from your old LCD and transfer them to the new one. Thanks for having me tear down my iMac for nothing. At least I could use it previously with an external monitor. Now I have to put it back together just to be able to do that again.

cdowney - Replica

Hi cdowney! I’m sorry to hear about your experience. We try to let you know on the product page which components our parts come with, as stated in the product description: “The LVDS cable and temperature sensor are not included in the assembly and will need to be transferred from your original display.” This guide may not be 100% complete for the specific part we sell right now, parts often change based on source and time after original release, and can vary between providers. We try to keep up with changes but aren’t always successful.

That said, the cables on the old display are removable and can be fairly easily transferred to your new display. Simply peel up the black tape and disconnect the cables, and plug them into the new display. The foam pieces are not critical, but can also be transferred to the new display, the adhesive should enable re-sticking with no issue. If you have trouble, don’t hesitate to reach out to us!

Sam Goldheart -

here, have some wine

altomic -

Hello Sam. I appreciate the reply and have noticed you’ve at least updated the guide to note at the end a clear picture of what is sold, and how it differs from what you pull off of your iMac. At iFixit Support’s advice, I am now attempting to transfer the cables. However, now I’m noticing a whole other set of issues. There is not only a whole row of fabric covered cushion on the bottom of the display I’ve removed from my iMac, as well as a complete housing frame not even mentioned at all in the guide. The cushion may be part of the housing frame, but I cannot easily discern that. I’ve removed what screws I can see from the housing frame and it is not coming free from the old LCD. This housing frame is what holds the magnets that the front glass panel sticks to. Based on that and the issue with the cable transfer, I’d advise removing this product and guide from your website until you can provide better support for this DIY replacement. VERY FRUSTRATED.

cdowney - Replica

A useful tip when removing/replacing the display: it’s quite hard to get at the delicate brass LCD cable if you are doing so by lifting up the display and peering in underneath while working with the iMac horizontal, on its back. I find my hands get in the way of seeing the connector, and it is also at just the wrong distance for my poor eyesight; not great for what is likely the most delicate connector in the whole device.

A much easier way to disconnect the cable is to keep the iMac vertical on its stand and, with the other smaller cables already disconnected, lift the display up and out of the ‘gutter’ at the bottom, and place its base on your work surface; there is enough slack in the LCD cable for that. Now it is very easy to disconnect the LCD cable, as it is in full view. Also nice and easy for reconnecting the cable too.

Guy Hemmings - Replica

I’m having an extremely difficult time trying to figure out how to remove the housing frame from the old display to transfer to the new one. Does anybody have any tips? Thank you in advance.

jpriv67 - Replica

Normally, reversing the steps in this guide and others is quite straight-forward. In this case, you really need to add the steps to reconnect the four ribbon cables from the LCD panel. Disconnecting the ribbon cables is easy but re-attaching them with one hand is a lot harder given the limited cable length, weight, and fragility of the LCD panel. Even putting the iMac on its back and bracing the LCD panel at an angle with ball point pens leaves very little space to work. Any techniques you can share to make this awkward and breakage-prone part of the operation easier would be very welcome.

BillMudge - Replica

I happened to damage both the V sync cable AND the display cable. Parts to replace these? Anyone? Beuller?

john.tatulli - Replica

Wow, so easy to transfer cables . What a cry baby!

Danwanda - Replica

My display stopped turning on a few weeks ago, so I bought a replacement display on eBay for ~$100. I was able to follow these instructions and put the new display in, but unfortunately, the problem persists - I hear the power up chime, and the screen does nothing. If anyone has any suggestions for possible fixes, I would love to hear them. I think it’s probably time to finally recycle the old workhorse, though…

Noah Silbert - Replica

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