randy3833

MacBook A1181 Early 2008 Penryn 2.4GHz This question has been answered successfully (screen still dim after new inverter cabl...

I just installed upgraded RAM in a family member's MacBook. At the same time, I installed a new SSD and was starting up with ...

I am attempting to replace the inverter on my Wallstreet. There isn't a guide for that procedure here, but I went through the...

I am working an a friends Powerbook G4 1.5 GHz 15". Whenever I attempt to attach a file, located in applications, downloads, ...

I have a Pismo 400MHz with a new PRAM battery, new 80 GB hard drive, I GB of RAM and running Tiger OS 10.4.11 with all update...

I have two project Pismo's that I recently brought to working condition. One of the two has a somewhat dimmer (less bright) d...

I have just pulled my old PowerBook 1400c with a G3 upgrade, out of storage. I've read about a few of the upgrade possibiliti...

Hello All, I am just about to do a RAM and Hard Drive upgrade on my iMac G4 1.25ghz 17" and am wondering if anyone has inform...

I am reposting my question from Apple Discussions to see if someone here may have a little more insight into the problem. Her...

I am reinstalling my logic board after a reballing repair. I sent the board in with the yellow foam pad attached to the shiel...

I'm sorry that your question hasn't been answered. I'm not aware of a solid lower case replacement for your MacBook but there are new replacement lower cases available that should last a long time, such as this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eathtek-New-Lower-Bottom-Case-Cover-for-Macbook-Pro-13-Unibody-A1278-2009-2010-/201921898456?epid=864809777&hash=item2f... There are also used lower cases on eBay in good condition for around $20. iFixit may sell them here on their site as well.

I'm not familiar with that particular vehicle but generally in the older cars with v-belts driving the alternator, fan and water pump, the belt will begin slipping with wear and must be adjusted tighter. Usually means loosening an adjustment (like an alternator bolt or two) and tightening the belt. If the belt has been slipping for a long period of time, it's probably glazed and burned, requiring replacement. Look online for a manual (youtube?) for a procedure, or find a maintenance manual for your car.

Since this is a basic first step to resolve power issues, I would imagine that the Apple techs have reset the SMC, but if not try this. How to reset the System Management Controller (SMC) on your Mac I once had a similar problem with an iBook, many years ago. Resetting the SMC would work for a period of time and then the powering off would happen again. I discovered eventually that it was a logic board/processor issue.

In your troubleshooting, did you happen to reset the PMU? It controls the sleep functions. Just a thought. PowerBook G3 Series (M4753) 1. If the computer is on, turn it off. 2. Simultaneously press Shift-Fn (function)-Ctrl (control)-Power. 3. Wait 5 seconds. 4. Press the Power button to restart the PowerBook computer. A hard reset might work if this doesn't. Remove the battery, then hold down the power button for 30 seconds. Wait five seconds. Replace the battery and push the power button.

Here you go! iBook G3 Clamshell Airport Card Replacement and.... Airport Card or.... wirelss card from eBay Randy

I had this exact same problem with my 12"iBook G3. I purchased a brand new inverter cable from iFixit, went carefully through the 68 steps in the ifixit replacement procedure and now have my display back. Pretty gratifying. Wishing you success.

After destroying a similar connector on a fan replacement with a dental pick, I've decided to withdraw my recommendation to use one. Best to use the flat end of the smaller spudger and pry the connector out from under the wire (screen) side, very slowly, working from side to side.

A method to remove the inverter cable connector that just worked great for me: I hooked a dental pick underneath the connector at the cable side (display side) and picked in right up out of the socket. I wiggled it a little first to make sure that I only had the connector hooked.

I have found over the years that a connector puller is invaluable in these situations. I believe that I bought mine from iFixit. In steps 16 and 17 you'll have to partially de-route two cables at the base of the connectors in order to get a good grip with the connector puller.

I've found it very useful to take photos of wire routing on disassembly for later reference.

Ah! Auto correct. Meant to say good improvising.

Oh, and good I provision on the cable!

Hi Ethan, I'm so sorry that I didn't see your question until now. It doesn't seem to me that the protective film is highly critical. By now I'm sure your iMac is back up and running. Hope all is well.

Randy

I'm so glad that the guide was helpful for you, George! Thanks for letting me know.

Randy

You're welcome! I'm glad that it is still useful.

On my Penryn model, it helped to deroute the data display cable and the microphone cable from under the tabs of the subwoofer by loosening the two Phillips screws to the right of the speaker.