randy3833

My front loading Samsung washing machine, model # WF448AAP/XAA made a very loud crash/bang at the end of the spin cycle. I...

My girlfriend’s iPhone 7 will power off by itself a short time after using it. If it’s left alone it will stay powered on....

MacBook A1181 Early 2008 Penryn 2.4GHz This question has been answered successfully (screen still dim after new inverter...

I just installed upgraded RAM in a family member's MacBook. At the same time, I installed a new SSD and was starting up...

I am attempting to replace the inverter on my Wallstreet. There isn't a guide for that procedure here, but I went through...

I am working an a friends Powerbook G4 1.5 GHz 15". Whenever I attempt to attach a file, located in applications,...

I have a Pismo 400MHz with a new PRAM battery, new 80 GB hard drive, I GB of RAM and running Tiger OS 10.4.11 with all...

I have two project Pismo's that I recently brought to working condition. One of the two has a somewhat dimmer (less...

I have just pulled my old PowerBook 1400c with a G3 upgrade, out of storage. I've read about a few of the upgrade...

Hello All, I am just about to do a RAM and Hard Drive upgrade on my iMac G4 1.25ghz 17" and am wondering if anyone has...

I'm sorry that your question hasn't been answered. I'm not aware of a solid lower case replacement for your MacBook but there are new replacement lower cases available that should last a long time, such as this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eathtek-New-Lower-Bottom-Case-Cover-for-Macbook-Pro-13-Unibody-A1278-2009-2010-/201921898456?epid=864809777&hash=item2f... There are also used lower cases on eBay in good condition for around $20. iFixit may sell them here on their site as well.

I'm not familiar with that particular vehicle but generally in the older cars with v-belts driving the alternator, fan and water pump, the belt will begin slipping with wear and must be adjusted tighter. Usually means loosening an adjustment (like an alternator bolt or two) and tightening the belt. If the belt has been slipping for a long period of time, it's probably glazed and burned, requiring replacement. Look online for a manual (youtube?) for a procedure, or find a maintenance manual for your car.

Since this is a basic first step to resolve power issues, I would imagine that the Apple techs have reset the SMC, but if not try this. How to reset the System Management Controller (SMC) on your Mac I once had a similar problem with an iBook, many years ago. Resetting the SMC would work for a period of time and then the powering off would happen again. I discovered eventually that it was a logic board/processor issue.

In your troubleshooting, did you happen to reset the PMU? It controls the sleep functions. Just a thought. PowerBook G3 Series (M4753) 1. If the computer is on, turn it off. 2. Simultaneously press Shift-Fn (function)-Ctrl (control)-Power. 3. Wait 5 seconds. 4. Press the Power button to restart the PowerBook computer. A hard reset might work if this doesn't. Remove the battery, then hold down the power button for 30 seconds. Wait five seconds. Replace the battery and push the power button.

Here you go! Sostituzione scheda AirPort iBook G3 Clamshell and.... Airport Card or.... wirelss card from eBay Randy

I had this exact same problem with my 12"iBook G3. I purchased a brand new inverter cable from iFixit, went carefully through the 68 steps in the ifixit replacement procedure and now have my display back. Pretty gratifying. Wishing you success.

You’re welcome, George! I’m sorry that I hadn’t noticed your comment, years ago now. I hope that your SSD mod went well. Post a report if you can!

I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!

Thanks Andy! Sorry, I just noticed your helpful reply. I somehow figured this out on my own.

I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.

Ah, never mind! I now see the rest of your comments. I hope you have (had?) the performance improvements that you were hoping for.

George, I just noticed your comment. How did your SSD upgrade go?

You should post your question in the forum to get a faster response. It’s been awhile since I’ve worked on this machine and don’t quite remember the LED indications. Doesn’t sound like an LCD issue.

The terminal command posted here to create a bootable drive installing High Sierra is not valid! Not a valid mount point.

Thank you! I was able to bring our NutriBullet back from the dead with your repair guide! As it turned out, one of the gray plastic clips that hold the actuators and switches had cracked, allowing the white pin that activates the microswitch to drift to the side. I was able to repair the little cracked tube that the white pin rides up and down by cleaning the crack with alcohol and gluing with superglue. The NutriBullet works like new again, with no need to add additional pressure to keep it going. Hopefully it will last a while longer.

After destroying a similar connector on a fan replacement with a dental pick, I've decided to withdraw my recommendation to use one. Best to use the flat end of the smaller spudger and pry the connector out from under the wire (screen) side, very slowly, working from side to side.