Aiuto
randy3833
randy3833
| 1.355 | Reputazione |
| 6 | Soluzioni |
| 1 | Guida |
| Membro dal 19/04/2010 | |
Voti
8
0
| 1.355 | Reputazione |
| 6 | Soluzioni |
| 1 | Guida |
| Membro dal 19/04/2010 | |
| Evento | Conteggio | Delta |
|---|---|---|
| Qualcuno ha completato la tua guida | 37 | 906 |
| A qualcuno è piaciuta la tua guida | 20 | 193 |
| Il post ha ricevuto un voto positivo | 13 | 156 |
| Risposta Accettata | 6 | 60 |
| È stato dato un voto positivo a un post contenente un link alla tua guida | 4 | 39 |
I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!
Thanks Andy! Sorry, I just noticed your helpful reply. I somehow figured this out on my own.
I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.
Ah, never mind! I now see the rest of your comments. I hope you have (had?) the performance improvements that you were hoping for.
George, I just noticed your comment. How did your SSD upgrade go?
You should post your question in the forum to get a faster response. It’s been awhile since I’ve worked on this machine and don’t quite remember the LED indications. Doesn’t sound like an LCD issue.
The terminal command posted here to create a bootable drive installing High Sierra is not valid! Not a valid mount point.
Thank you! I was able to bring our NutriBullet back from the dead with your repair guide! As it turned out, one of the gray plastic clips that hold the actuators and switches had cracked, allowing the white pin that activates the microswitch to drift to the side. I was able to repair the little cracked tube that the white pin rides up and down by cleaning the crack with alcohol and gluing with superglue. The NutriBullet works like new again, with no need to add additional pressure to keep it going. Hopefully it will last a while longer.
After destroying a similar connector on a fan replacement with a dental pick, I've decided to withdraw my recommendation to use one. Best to use the flat end of the smaller spudger and pry the connector out from under the wire (screen) side, very slowly, working from side to side.
A method to remove the inverter cable connector that just worked great for me: I hooked a dental pick underneath the connector at the cable side (display side) and picked in right up out of the socket. I wiggled it a little first to make sure that I only had the connector hooked.
Pagina 1 di 3
Prossimo