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The larger of Apple's MacBook Air laptops featuring dual microphones and 802.11ac Wi-Fi connectivity.

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A1466 EMC2632 but need help with year etc and board testing please

Hi iFixit members,

I have been given a Macbook Air 13" A1466 EMC2632 by a friend. Lucky me I hear you all saying LOL..

Well it's not as simple as that. It has unfortuntely had a Tea spillage so I need to do some thorough testing and possible parts replacement...BUT I have done a full Board clean up, with IPA and light air blower, and physically cannot see any corrosion or nasty component damage.

My friend advised me that it is a 2015 model with the extras added (that I can see on the OEM sticker but I need to ensure that the Schematic I am I following is correct to the physical laptop.

Board identification is as follows:


MLB 1.7G HY 8G SI (not sure what the HY and SI mean though)

Also could really do with some guidance in regards to the multimeter testing, such as what Parts essentially need to being connected up so that I get proper accurate readings.....and also Diode Mode or Resistance mode or Both preferred for testing the circuit.

And lastly, what I should look out for in regards to drink spillage etc.. but I cannot see any components which look like they are fried or corroded.

I have read a forum on here that mentions the 2015 model requires the battery connected to complete tests, but I am unsure if this is a 2015 model or earlier model.

Your help would be very kindly apprecited thank you


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You have a Mid 2013 system which only has 8GB of RAM (the A version of board is 4GB). The HY and SI is the RAM suppler Apple used.


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Given the systems age you likely need a new battery MacBook Air 13" (Late 2010-2017) Battery to really do any serious testing or even get it to run.

A tea spill into the keyboard likely damaged the keyboard and/or trackpad so consider these costs as well.

If you get it going what is your plan of usage? Also consider the highest Apple supported OS is OS-X Mavericks (10.9.5).

You'll need to locate a set of schematics and boardview drawings to work off of. Diagnosing a logic board will take a bit of work I would recommend you jump over to Louis Rossmann: The most Common Macbook Air logic board failure - how to fix

Immagine MacBook Air 13" (Late 2010-2017) Battery


MacBook Air 13" (Late 2010-2017) Battery


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@danj Just a note; I have this Mac as well (though mine is 4GB, not 8).

It's running Big Sur without any hacks, cracks or upgrades of any kind. All I have done is I replaced the battery this weekend (even though original battery from 2013 had ~95% health).

Done the OS upgrades every year since I bought it in 2013, until Big Sur.

I also wiped it earlier this year and did a fresh install of Big Sur.


Hi Dan,

Thank you for your response.

My friend already purchased a new battery but never got round to installing it, which he also gave to me.

I actually haven’t removed the keyboard yet.. one thing I forgot to check.

I also am not entirely sure where the spillage went - didn’t want to come across rude in asking considering he gave it to me.

I am aware about the OS and don’t plan on using it for a great deal.. not entirely sure what I plan on doing with it once it’s working.

I am unable to work so enjoy fixing things, but due to disability does take slightly longer than some other people.. I get a big buzz (and I don’t mean an electric shock haha) out of something that I have managed to repair.

I am all for the ‘Right to Repair’ program.

I do have the schematic and boardview ready to go but just need to get a start on it, without going through more YouTube videos

Going back to the battery - is there a way ai can test for life in the battery that he has supplied me with.

Thanks again Dan



@polsky It's awesome that you have found something you can do, despite disabilities! Don't worry about taking longer time, time is relative ;-)

The best solution is to swap the battery to the new one, then fully charging it. Once it's fully charged, run CoconutBattery, I find it's the best diagnosing tool for batteries.

You can test it with a DMM (digital multimeter) on the connector, after locating the positive and negative leads.


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Paul sarà eternamente grato.
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