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Information and repair instructions for GE Profile Refrigerator

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GE Profile Side-by-side refrigerator is holding steady at wrong temp

This fridge has a history of issues. In the past, it has always been the inverter board that was overheated or fried. It’s gotten to where I keep an extra board on hand, just in case. This time it’s a little different. The fridge side is holding steady at 53 degrees. The freezer is holding steady at 27. (The fridge is set at 40, and the freezer at 4.). I can see that the compressor fan is blowing, and I can hear and feel that the compressor is running.

Since it’s the one trick I know, the first thing I tried was replacing the inverter board. The new board has been in for hours now, and no change. While replacing the inverter board, I noticed that there was a good bit of water under the compressor. I’ve never noticed that before. Looking online, that sounds normal, but it’s new to me. I sponged it up, and didn’t see more accumulate.

After the new board didn’t have any effect, I pull out the multimeter and did some tests. The control line to the inverter board is at 11.8V. When I disconnect the control line, the compressor stops running. When I plug it back in, the compressor starts running again. I measured the resistance across the posts on the compressor. All three combinations come up at 7.8 Ohms.

Everything seems to be working, except for the part where it’s not. Any suggestions?

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I should add that the condenser/compressor fan is running fine. Touching the lines that come out of the compressor, the line to the condenser is hot, and the line to the accumulator is cool (not cold). No idea if that normal or odd; just making observations. The model on this fridge is GE Monogram ZIS420D.

da

it is possible you may have a low freon issue. if so you will have no choice but to call a professional.

Or giving the amount of issues you have, chunk it and get a new fridge. A good sledge hammer might come in handy if you do =) LOL.

da

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Hey Daniel.

Sounds like your sealed system may be working ok, as well as most other components. If the seals on the doors were bad, the system might be working fine, but the temperature in the frig and freezer would be elevated because the bad seal is allowing the cool air to escape. I say this primarily to show an example on this point.

Likewise, if the evaporator has an icy buildup it will create an insufficient cooling condition. This would result from something going wrong with the defrost cycle. Check the evaporator. If you find an icy buildup the problem could be with a thermistor, bi-metal thermostat, defrost heater, or the main control board.

If the evaporator looks fine, you may want someone qualified to check to see if the refrigerant charge in the sealed system is within spec.

Hope this helps. Good Luck.

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Thanks! On this model, the evaporator is behind a metal shield (onto which the motherboard is mounted), and, if I understand correctly, has to be accessed by taking off the top panel. This fridge is inset into the cabinets, not on rollers, and sitting on a remarkably easy to damage hardwood floor. I don't think I'm gonna be able to get to the evaporator by myself.

I checked for wires that I might have disturbed, and everything looks we'll seated.

The fridge is now slowly trending upward with repeated openings. It's up to 55 now. Looks to me like the cooling system is only just barely able to hold its ground.

Doesn't look like I have another option other than to call in a professional. Thanks for helping me make sure I'm not missing something obvious.

da

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Sounds like you replaced the Board many times. You may have pulled the thermostat wire some from the original position, if not then the thermostat Probe for the fridge side is bad. As for the water, it will happen after a defrost cycle, that is normal.

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Ended up calling in a pro, and he found that the evaporator coil was frozen over. Thawed it out, and it’s worked since.

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Daniel Templeton sarà eternamente grato.
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