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After a two-year hiatus, the model-year 2005 Sportage returned, sharing its Elantra-based platform with the 2005 Hyundai Tucson.

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Acceleration, Stalling and Idle RPMs

So a few weeks ago I had drivin to Joplin (100 miles away) and had the car going non stop running around for 10 hours in bad heat. Then on the way back on the hwy I was going around 70 and the car started jutting the eventuality lost acceleration and then stalled (3 miles from my house of course). Fast forward to today and at a stop I go to press on the gas to take off I couldn’t get the car to accelerate at all for 4-5 seconds then it all the sudden accelerated. When I got home and pulled into the driveway and put it in park the rpm kept going to up and down between 500 to 1000 rpm. Up, a second later down and second later up and so forth. Any ideas out there??

Update (07/29/2019)

So since this post I’ve had the issue pop up maybe 4-5 times. The check engine stayed on for awhile but now is off most of the time. Yesterday I got new tires due to another issue I’ve been dealing with and ask a tech how much change the spark plugs. He took the plastic cover off the manifold and I noticed at the right of it was a small hose coming from that plastic piece I believe you mentioned ( in the picture). The hose looks kind of melted, cracked and is very loose. I can’t seem to find a diagram to tell me what it’s called so I can price/replace it.

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Hey Michael. First of all, that's a pretty good recounting of the problems you experienced with your vehicle. Would you tell us a little more about the actual vehicle? Year, model, engine, Automatic or manual transmission, etc., as these specifics help get you more specific and helpful feedback.

Also, anything looked into or tried between the time the car stalled 3 miles from home and the point you"fast forwarded" to?


It’s a 2006 KIA Sportage Front wheel drive 2.7ltr 6cyl engine. Tried starting it several times after it stalled and it would turn over but wouldn’t start. Had it towed and sure enough the next day the mechanic called and said it started and drove, couldn’t find an issue. When it stalled it started with a slight stutter you could feel, few seconds later stronger, then stronger. Until the acceleration quickly went to nothing and then stalled out finally. I’ve heard fuel pump, ignition coils, timing belt and spark plugs. With most saying fuel pump. With these recent symptoms today didn’t know if that would help narrow it down.


Also it’s an automatic and The mechanic did say the check engine light code said something about a transmission solenoid going out and to get it flushed? He has a real thick accent that’s hard to understand sometimes.


Michael did you find out what the problem was


Re: picture: That's not a hose but a protective rubber heat covering over a hose-


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Thanks for the additional info, Michael.

My instinct here is the throttle position sensor (TPS), which can be checked fairly easily with a multi-meter. Have your mechanic take a look at this for you. Otherwise, it’s not very complicated. If you have, and know how to use, a multi-meter, it’s a test you may can do yourself. Lots of videos out there demonstrating the actual step by step on how to test a TPS, without removing any parts. A replacement TPS is not terribly expensive and it’s also a fairly easy procedure, if this turns out to be the problem.

While you’re working right there with/around the throttle body, and especially if the sensor checks ok, you may want to remove the air intake to expose the throttle plate, and inspect it for carbon build up on the edges which could interfere with the throttle plate action. Also make sure nothing associated with moving the throttle is mechanically binding, etc., as in this action the movement needs to be fairly smooth.

Otherwise, briefly, after eliminating the TPS as the culprit, here’s the order I might go at:

check fuel pressure - if not ok, check fuel pump; if ok, assume pump/pressure ok.

check for spark - if not getting spark (at the cylinders), check rotor button, distributor cap & wires; if getting spark at cylinders, check ignition coils and spark plugs.

Hope this helps. Good Luck.

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So today it stalled at a stop sign but started right up. I got the check engine light warnings they said, Oxygen sensor bank one sensor one and catalysts system below efficiency bank 2.


Ok Michael. The catalyst system error really means that your emissions are emitting more pollution than it's supposed to, first. That doesn't automatically mean the converter is bad or failing, etc.

Second, if you have a plastic intake, it's quite possible for these to crack and allow more air in, and if a gasket fails as well, it could allow coolant in. This is quite common, and it will produce a PO430 code. Check to see if you're losing coolant, or if you see signs of moisture under the oil fill cap, for instance.

You might also just make sure the intake bolts are all tightened down, and just see if this helps any. If you see coolant, believe you may be mysteriously losing coolant (small amount), this intake leak may be your problem. And this repair is much cheaper than replacing a catalytic converter, too. The O2 code might clear up as well, if the intake is really what's responsible for your recent problems.

Please keep me posted.


I’m not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I can smaller things and the rest I research and do myself if I can. I know very basic stuff so forgive me when I ask which I take you talking about, like a specific name so I can look it up. Sorry and thank you.


Hey Michael. To answer your question about the intake - You've got a V6, & on top there's two "heads" with 3 cylinders each. A valve cover is mounted on top of each head. Between the 2 heads, is the intake manifold, where the engine takes in the air it requires (the amount of air is regulated and critical to sound engine performance). You should see a large air duct connecting at the front of the intake, where the throttle is located (the throttle linkage is mounted on the side, here). Some engines are now using plastic intakes & these can form cracks, causing problems regulating the air. People might replace O2 sensor and/or even the catalytic converter, etc., in response to these codes, when sometimes this problem with the intake will be what's actually causing these error codes.

You can do a search on your vehicle year, make, model and engine, & the error codes you had & likely find several videos that would help you have a better handle on all this.

Hope this might help.


Have a question instead sorta sounds like the question befor I have a 2013 kia rio and everyone an awhile it spits spits. Like pulling a hill then looses power so I gear up but sputters then chk engin light comes on week power. Or dies then hard to start like bad fule pump. And the r.p.m. gage stops functioningGo home shut off next day chk eng light is out car runs fine untill next time almost daily also control panel drivers side air bags consistent on


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Michael Buchanan sarà eternamente grato.
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