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Not grinding beans any more

The grinder was making funny noises and releasing the ground beans a bit at a time. Now its not making the noise but won't take in any beans to grind. Anything we can do?

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New edit - old post below..

I finally did commit to pulling it apart...

there are a lot of carefully routed wires and things that fir tightly, fair warning it's a tricky machine to work on.

I wish I'd taken pictures, and am sorry i didn't.

You'll need an EXTREMELY long #2 Phillips driver, about as long as the machine is tall.

Don't even bother to begin without this or some other solution to undo extremely deep screws in deep recesses.
I used a 150mm long #2 Phillips bit and a screwdriver socket with 1/4" socket to turn the screwdriver bit.
All up about 300mm or 12" of shaft are needed.

Also take care to organize properly - there are many screws + washers.
I have not memorized all the washer locations to take notes as you follow this!

Start by removing all of the fittings from the machine and giving it a clean.
Hopper, first, outer burr, basket holder under output and tray in output.

Vacuum out the burr area and remove as much debris as possible, don't want any of this to work it's way inside the machine.

WARNING! - safety hazard! keep fingers away from burrs
Trip the machine safety by pressing and holding a pointed plastic object into the grey square at the back of the inside top where the hopper locks, then run the machine to clear out any remaining grounds.

Unplug the machine.

Using a 10mm socket or similar remove the center burr - it is a left hand thread so lefty tighty righty loosey.

With the center burr comes the impeller (this is blamed for many faults, but i don't actually think it really is the problem in most cases). take note of washers too, i think there were a spring and flat washer under the burr nut and 2 washers under the impeller.

Tip upside down.

Unwind all of the cord.

Remove the 4 screws.

Remove the base and move it along the cord to create a free working space.

Cut the cable tie holding the cables in a bundle inside the fiberglass sleeve.
Fair warning, it's a tight space with an open motor, take care of wire routing!

Deep in the corners of the machine from the inside are 4 screws in deep holes.
These are the screws that hold the top of the machine on.

Undo these 4 screws, they are deep and a pain, even worse to do up.

One these are removed the machine can be turned upright.

The top of the machine will now come off exposing the top insides.

Remove the 2 screws from the top left / right of the display and pull the display up and forward.

Clip any cable ties as needed and move wires as needed.

Around the grinding unit are 4 screws through rubber mounts with washers top and bottom. Undo these and take care not to lose the washers, they might stay in place nicely... or not.

Now with a bit of fiddling the motor, gearbox and top unit all come out, limited by the length of the motor wire.

Remove 4 screws from the back of the motor gearbox, on the motor side of the gearbox. For me holding the assembly to the left worked best, very fiddly.

Once the gearbox is open the white gear with courser teeth are is the one of interest, the other can remain in its place.

Remove the gear and rake good notice of how it is assembled.

There should be 6 balls visible pressed against holes in the metal plate.

In our machine there were 4 and 2 were missing.

Disassembly of this gear/clutch should be done with care, good chance of parts flying.
The nut on this is once again left hand thread, so OTHER WAY, take care washers etc...

Once the clutch is opened this is likely where the damage is, it was in our case.
Adjust your actions from this point to suit the damage you see.
It is possible if all the balls are in place and the issue is caught very early you might just get away with tightening the clutch.

We had 2 balls melted into the nylon and 2 badly bent springs.

A raceway was worn into the metal part of the clutch.

I bent the springs back into shape as best i could.

I loaded the balls onto the springs and thought it might be worth replacing the metal part upside down due to the wear.

Re-assemble it as it was, you might need a 3rd hand or a light duty vice to compress the clutch springs enough to get the nut back on.

From this point I'm going to be a pain and say the old... Assembly is the reverse process of disassembly.

Wish anyone that sees this luck, and shame on Breville for knocking be back for a $@$*!& clutch fault 2 weeks out of warranty.



I'm 99% sure the cause is the clutch slipping.

Several Youtube videos have contained discussion regarding this but i am yet to see a detailed guide.

I have our machine apart on the bench currently and it's seeming to get trickier and trickier the further i get into it.

I'm at a point where I've lost confidence.

This isn't a total solution, but i hope it might help someone?

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Yeah, that's exactly what is happening. I now leave the lid off, the hopper empty, and I slowly drip feed the beans in. If I put too many beans in at once I need to pull it a part slightly to get it to work.

It's a bad grinder.

I'll just be looking for something better at some point.

With an emphasis on being able to grind green beans if I really wanted.


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You can open it, and use something to push the sensor and something to push the beans to free it up. Just don't put the beans in the actual hopper. Slowly feed them in so it doesn't mess up.

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Tried this and it was a no go unless feeding 2 or 3 beans at a time.

I just edited my post with the full teardown... the clutch was very much dead.

Looking at the way it's put together, when the machine slips it creates wear that makes it more likely to slip easier, and ends up in a feedback loop until the bur won't turn even with a light load.


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Fatima sarà eternamente grato.
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