Accidentally replaced LCD digitizer without removing battery first

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iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi

Guide per la versione Wi-Fi dell'iPad Mini 2. Annunciato il 22 ottobre e introdotto il 12 novembre 2013. L'iPad mini 2, noto anche come iPad mini con Retina Display, ha tutti i pixel dell'iPad Air in un più piccolo fattore di forma da 7,9"

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chaubly @chaubly

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Postato: 28 gen 2017

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Accidentally replaced LCD digitizer without removing battery first

Hello,

I was wondering what I can do to power on my ipad mini 2 after I have replaced the LCD digitizer without removing the battery flex cable first? I read on the forum that you are supposed to put the battery cable on last after placing the LCD digitizer cable.

Also read that I may have to replace the fuse, which I'm not quite sure where it is located.

As of right now, the ipad is recognized on my laptop but, it doesn't power on.

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If it is the backlight circuit needing troubleshooting the iPad should still display something but very dim.

Usually backlight filters / fuse / chokes (I think they are called) need to be checked for continuity via a digital multimeter.

28 gen 2017 da Ben

Also you can hold a flashlight over the display, and see if you can still see the display

28 gen 2017 da iMedic

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Soluzione Prescelta

Minho @refectio

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Refectio - Mail-in Micro-Soldering Repairs & Data Recovery

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Postato: 28 gen 2017

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The backlight fuse is not a fuse but a ferrite bead. The purpose of the ferrite bead is to filter out high frequency noise on the line. When there is high frequency noise, the ferrite bead acts like a resistor and throttles the noise.

When a DC signal is applied, the bead behaves as a near short (usually only in the milliOhm range, depending on the bead).

This component typically fails when you forget to disconnect the battery before removing or replacing the LCD connector. To properly test it, you need to check it's resistance with a meter. For all intents and purposes, it should read as a dead short (~0 Ohms).

On the mini 2, it is L2200 and it is under the shield. If you have the right tools and experience, it is not a difficult repair. Otherwise, I suggest you find a micro-soldering repair shop to have it done professionally.

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If it is the backlight circuit needing troubleshooting the iPad should still display something but very dim.

Usually backlight filters / fuse / chokes (I think they are called) need to be checked for continuity via a digital multimeter. — Ben
Also you can hold a flashlight over the display, and see if you can still see the display — iMedic

iPad Mini 2 Wi-Fi

Accidentally replaced LCD digitizer without removing battery first

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