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Apple's 2012 first-generation 7.9-inch iPad mini, with 16, 32, or 64 GB of storage and an A5 processor.

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Black Strip on LCD after SOMEWHAT Successful Digitizer Repair. HELP

I had a SOMEWHAT successful digitizer repair on my iPad Mini.

The only problem is that I think I may have tugged too hard/bent the LCD too far back during step 6.

I think it's just the ribbon cable, because at first it was a black strip, and then after trying to reseat everything I started pushing down on the connections (while it was on) to see if anything made a slight difference and it was the LCD cable that would cause a change.

It wasnt the connector but the cable itself that after pressing would cause the black line to turn rainbowish, and after thinking I almost had it fixed the screen went B&W and now it's a white stripe and the rest of the screen is somewhat colorless.

Digitizer works, everything seems to work except for the loss of color and strip down the screen.

Is there a way to fix just the ribbon? Or is the whole LCD pretty much useless now?

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It is possible to replace that cable. I have personally fixed hundreds, probably more, iPad Minis and I have never managed to damage that cable. I have however, cracked a ton of Mini LCDs. I swear they make the things out of crackers. It takes next to no pressure to break the things.

A new Mini LCD is less than $30. Repairing that cable would probably take a couple hours. If it were me, I'd buy a new LCD and call it a day. Consider it a learning experience.

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You have cracked a ton of Mini LCDs? :S. Have you tried the wire string + heat method to cut the glue off under the edges of the LCD? There is a bit on the left middle edge and right middle edge and bottom of the LCD usually.

I'm guessing you keep spare iPad mini LCDs on hand? There are a few different model of LCDs you need to keep on hand as they don't work if it isn't compatible with the iPad or it's model number .

da

I've heard that said about compatibility and never had an issue with it. Also, I refurbish iPads, so I normally have plenty of parts on hand. As far as method, I get one corner up just enough to get a playing card thickness plastic tool under. I then do the same to the other side. Once there is a tool under both sides of the screen, I slowly push them in. Once the LCD is free, I pop it off. It works great as long as I don't rush.

I don't like running wires under screens. I never have.

da

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CENTAUR559 sarà eternamente grato.
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