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24" display; Built-in iSight Camera, Microphone, and Speakers; 1920x1200 resolution. Released October 2008, identified by model number A1267.

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Black Screen with Sound

I used to have my Mac Mini (2009 edition) connected to my living room tv. Since we recently upgraded the surround sound, I was wanting to connect it back to my 24" cinema display in the office, but when I connected everything and powered on, I'm not getting any picture. Just a black screen. I've done minor troubleshooting using my Mini and my Air. The mini still connects fine via mini display port to my tv, and my air will transfer sound to the cinema display via the usb. Is there a way to determine if the display port connection on the all-in-one cable to the cinema display is bad? Or at this point am I forced into trial and error with swapping out parts? Please let me know if you have any ideas. Trying not to buy a new display in new parts. >.<

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Hi everybody.

i have the same bug and i looking for a resolution.

I have black screen but with a magnate torch, i see the screen make a very light display.

The sound is ok. USB also.

my mac recognize the screen.

when i plug the monitor, everything is ok for 1sc and after... black screen.

sometinmes, everything are ok for few days.

Have you a idea ?

PS: excuse my bad english, my mother language is french ;)


i have the same issue

No image but sound only

any help ?


replace the backlight LED stripes of the LG panel, you can find them on aliexpress


For what it's worth I have a similar issue except that its a black screen with sound when I plug in a PC to the cinema display. The way I resolve it is by unplugging the monitor thunderbolt cable from the PC and plugging it into my macbook pro for a brief second. Once the mac registers with the cinema display I can plug it back into the PC and the PC connects just fine. Super odd but works every time.


Charlie Charping

I have identical issue.. with Cinema Display going black for no reason from my iMac and it does turn back on and works fine connected to a MacBook and then works on iMac after as per your fix. But it does go black again shortly.. Any clue what is happening here? Would obviously like to find a permanent solution


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Soluzione Prescelta

We've seen a lot of these displays fail more recently. The issue is, there isn't really a reliable source for the parts of these displays. Apple class all the cinema display models as 'Vintage' now (even the thunderbolt 27" model), so the only option is after market sources, which dry up pretty quickly...

That being said, if you shine a torch on the display and can see a faint image, and the mac can see the external display as being connected (check under the 'Graphics/Display' tap of the system profiler, or system information panel. it should show up showing the display as being connected with its resolution noted, even if the external display is blank)

if that is the case, then it is more likely to be one of 3 things. The LCD having failed, the internal logic board or the PSU. The all in one cable does wear and fail on occasion, but in our experience, this causes intermittent connection issues, so it wouldn't be showing up in the system information panel, and wouldn't be showing a faint image.

Basically, 2 feeds go to the display, so its helpful to know which has failed. You get backlight feed, and you get image. If you can see a faint image, then your backlight feed has failed.

Same goes for your display @schwinny. It is likely that your backlight feed is beginning to fail, so it will need tracing, but its a separate issue to the image feed, which is unaffected from what you've noted in your symptoms.

I hope this helps.

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To clarify, if the image is faint on the display the LCD has gone out? I swapped the logic board with one we bought on eBay but it was untested and we still getting the same results.


No. The LCD is not the same as the backlight. If you can see the LCD graphics - the LCD is ok. The backlight is another component on this display and requires its own power rail.


I cam here via Safari to see what the problem was with my ‘black screen’ 20” apple cinema disply. The problem was a blown mains power plug 3A fuse!!


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Well I'm not sure if this is the case in apple monitors but in most lcd monitors the first component to go bad is the capacitors in the power supply. This will cause the display to turn on very dim and take several minutes to brighten up or to display black. If you think the monitor is at fault and you have checked your connections thoroughly it might be worth taking it apart to look at the capacitors. If they are bad they will sometimes have a bulge on the top, they should (when working correctly) be perfectly flat. They can go bad without the bulge but this could be a good place to start.

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Hi, long time no see. I am reading the same problem here (sorry, it is in Dutch):

Seems to me many of those 24” Apple Cinema Displays have damaged backlight inverters.

Looks like a generic issue.

Any chance we get that inverter board as a spare on

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I got a 24" cinema display that had the same issues.
Since it was thrown out of the office, I decided to have a look at what the the problem was (as I see a lot of these screens on my local auction site with the exact ssame issues).

- The only options you have are :
1. replacing the entire LCD panel with a working one.
2. replace the LEDs on the LED strip inside the LCD panel.
- Replacing the LED is extremely hard because of the thick aluminium strip to which the LED strip flex cable is attached to, absorbs all the heat. My rework station did not produce enough heat so you need something like a heating plate.
- Cheap CCFL-to-LED backlight conversion kits don't produce enough light (15W instead of the needed 61W).
- I have not been able to find a seller of replacement LED strips.
- I tried using other LEDs but the LED driver seems to be configured for the LG LCD panel LED strip.

My screen sometimes flickered for a second and then would turn off, even at the lowest brightness setting.
USB and sound was OK.
I took a strong flashlight to confirm that the LCD panel itself was working.

I took the display apart and found that the LED strip was the problem.
The LED strip has 3 strings (20 leds of 350mA per string at 60V = 61 watt) .
The LED driver (HV9982) manages these 3 strings seperately.
The display has a safety feature where the LED driver checks voltage and current of each of the strings of the LED strip.
This safety feature is what kicks in and turns off the LED strip inside the LCD panel.

If the voltage/current goes out of a predetermined range, the LED driver will issue a fault status that turns off the string.
The fault status is also monitored by a small CPU on the same logic board.
This cpu is responsible for turning the LED driver on/off and provide the PWM signal for the dimming of the LED strip.
(Note that the brightness setting only works when you also plug in the USB connector.)
As soon as this LED driver goes into a fault state the cpu also turns down the dimming completely so that the LED string is turned off.
That is why some people notice that the PWM signal is off and they try to bypass it.

My understanding is that when LEDs get older or faulty, they draw a lot more current (even though they are not producing much light).
This is the primary cause why the screen LED is turned off.
With a strong flashlight and moving a window with some text to the display, you can easily check this.

I also took the actual LG display (LM240WU6-SDA1) in an attempt to fix/replace the LED strip.
The LCD panel is relatively easy to open by removing some screws and lifting some clips.
Be extremely carefull with the sides of the panel.
It has some electronic components on some flex cable sticking out on the side of the LCD panel.
This flex cable is extremely easy to damage.

The LED strip inside was a big mess.
According to some other post, the LEDs used are Luxeon Rebel LEDS (LXML-PWN1-0120).
Some of the LED lenses of the SMD LEDs had fallen off and the same happened when I touched some of the other LEDs.
Normally the lenses of SMD LEDs don't come off, no matter the age of the LEDs.
I've took apart many TVs and LED monitors but I have never see a LEDs so badly damaged.
Something is really wrong with these LEDs or the way that they are used inside this panel.

Since there are so many people with problems with this cinema display,
I suspect there is something fundamentally wrong with the LEDs or the design of the panel.
Compared to other LEDs they do give way more light but they also draw 2~3 times the current.
That is a lot of current, lot of light and probably a lot of heat.
The specs say that the LEDs should last 36000 hours but that is complete nonsense I think.
I think due to the amount of stress to produce this much light, the LEDs don't last as long as the manufacturer claims.
Or maybe because they are enclosed in the panel, they cannot get rid of the heat sufficiently, causing too much stress on the LEDs and shortening their lifetime.
There are ventilation gaps in the panel but they have been covered by black tape.
The datasheet of the LG LCD panel does not show that theese ventilation gaps are covered.
So I guess it's Apple who put some tape on them to prevent any light leaking out of the panel.
The Cinema Display has ventilation holes in the bottom of the frame, exactly where light would bleed out of the LCD panel.

The LEDs of which the lens had fallen off didn't light up anymore.
The LEDS that did light up, did have very different brightness.
Some were too bright to look at and some hardly lit up at all.
This also makes me draw the conclusion that something is wrong with these LEDs.

Just for fun I tried installing a CCFL-to-LED conversion kit in the panel.
You can get these kids for $10~$20 on Amazon or Aliexpress.
That did not work at all.
One strip gave far too less light. Even with the brightness turned on to max, it was too dark.
The original led strip is 61 watt and 1 strip of the conversion kit is only 15 watt.
I tried installing 2 strips. There is just enough space inside the panel to put 2 strips parallel.
Oddly enough that didn't improve the brightness.
My theory is that is you put 2 strips inside the panel, the LEDs are too much on the outside of the panel on both sides and thus not shining into the transparent back plate.
So this attempt also failed.

I have searched a lot of the internet but I have not found any manufacturer who has a good replacement LED strip for the 24 inch model cinema display. There are replacements for the 27 inch version but these are not compatible with the 24 inch model.
The 27 inch model seems to have 2 strips on both sides while the 24 inch model only has one.
Maybe that is also way they put so much high power leds on 1 strip.

I tried using the LED strip of another monitor by modifying it to 3 strings of 20 leds.
That also did not work.
The string started flickering intermittently first and later only on the very lowest brightness setting it would stay on.
Turning up the brightness 2 steps would result in the LED string turning off.
It looks like the LED driver is made for particular LEDs with a certain current draw.
The LEDs on my other LED strip were much smaller so I guess I hit some threshold of the LED driver again.
Apple does seem to use the same schematic as mentioned in the HV9982 LED driver datasheet but the values for monitoring current and voltage are probably matched with the LED strip in the LG LCD panel.

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same with mine, when i power cycle a few times it comes back. i think its the backlight led driver HV9982 as written in another post Low light or no backlight on LCD

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replaced the complete logic board, same problem, the replaced the backlight LED stripes and all is fine now


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Hi Everyone...

I have a 24" Cinema display and have been experiencing similar issues as described above. Two years ago I took the screen to a repair facility and they told me it was the logic board that was not working properly. The repair would have cost around $300 dollars... it was just not worth it. I took the screen home with the intention of recycling it but never got to it. The screen stood around 2 years not being connected to power supply. Today I thought I would get rid of it but before I did so I wanted to try turning it on one more time... Connecting it while macOS is running the same problem persists. Screen flickers for half a second (I see my desktop image) and then goes black. Unplugging and re-plugging did not help either. I wanted to try one more thing though and that was seeing if there is any change when my macbook pro is running Windows via bootcamp... And alas! Starting windows, the screen not only flickers for a millisecond but for about 5 seconds and then turns on completely normal... I am writing this connected to the screen and it works fine. I have not rebooted through macOS yet but will try that today. Would be interesting to see if some of you are having the same findings.


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Also works with macOS... this is weird!


Hi Nick, when it worked with macOS, did it stay on for a few hours. Like other posts, most of the time, my display flickers once (a millisecond) when I turn the power on. 1 in about 50 times it comes on for a few hours, but then suddenly no picture. One time, I just left it plugged to my MacBook with no picture, and it came on suddenly. I tried Shift, Ctrl, Cmd + power button whilst rebooting, the screen flashes again for a millisecond and again no picture. Sound, USB and even the display's power cable via MacBook work. It's very frustrating, when it does because it's fantastic... Is there an adapter to connect the magsafe square plug to VGA and connect to a PC? Thanks


have exactly the same issue! did you by any chance figured out how to solve it?


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This worked for me. Bypass the PWM output according to instructions by user Willi. What components need replacing on the Logic board?

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Sometimes, re-plugging in the monitor wall power cord to the wall quickly turns on the picture. Out 1 second back in. Like flicking a wall breaker. May take a few tries. Look for the screen flicker.

When you get frustrated unplug the Apple computer wall power cord (not the monitor) and walk away.

Even with the refurbished boards it just seemed like the capacitors needed some time to energize and learn.

I do have a spare power supply board #661-4821 if someone is ambitious enough to troubleshoot it.

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Dwight sarà eternamente grato.
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