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Repair and disassembly guides for food cooling appliances including refrigerators, freezers and fridge-freezers.

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Whirlpool Refrigerator Interior Lights Flickering

My Whirlpool WRS322FDAW01 is just over a year old and all of a sudden the interior lights on both the fridge side and the freezer side are strobing when the door is open. From what I've gathered the lights are LED and may have to be replaced in their entirety. Not sure. Please help!

Also, all of the lights on both sides of the fridge are in sync regarding the strobe effect. I'd even be ok with just shutting them off completely instead of the strobe. Any help will be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Risposto! View the answer Anch'io ho questo problema

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Punteggio 9

Commenti:

Same thing happening to my, Model # WRS322FNAM00, side-by-side Whirlpool Refrigerator.

2 LED lights on the Fridge Side, and 1 LED light on the freezer side.

At night I am blinded if I don't turn on the kitchen lights.

Any help out there for this?

da

We have had this same issue, we've changed out the module and the light switch and the lights are still blinking

da

Should we talk about a class action law suit?

da

I am having the same issue it stop after opening and closing the doors but after two days thesame issue. Since more than a week no change.

da

I am having the same issue. since all the modules act the same way I believe that it is an issue with the controller.

da

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Soluzione Prescelta

I think this will answer your question:

First see if it's covered under warranty, this is a factory defective part.

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/...

Here's the part: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlp...

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Commenti:

If both LEDs are flashing do both modules need to be replaced? It would be odd that both failed at the same time. That is why I would think this is a common (to both lights) power supply issue.

da

If it is a factory defect, the part should gbe recalled and the company should repair it.

da

I agree I have the same problem, it should be recalled, this doesn't look good for whirlpool as a leader in appliance"

da

I pulled the power plug out and plugged it back in.....Problem Solved

da

Where is the module located? My lights started flickering right after the warranty period. Model WRS322FDAM00

da

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Owner's of similar model Maytag and Kenmore Refrigerators have reported the exact same issue!

There are 3x LED Lights or "Modules" located in these side-by-side style refrigerators

> 2 in the Fridge side and 1 in the Freezer

The problem (defective) LED light module is on the fridge side, located at the top. This LED module is designed with a built in dimmer! That single dimmer controls all 3 lights in your fridge. As the dimmer begins to fail, that causes the flashing, strobing, studio 54 in your kitchen effect.

Some owners have had "short-term" success by detaching the LED module, unplugging the 2 wires, and plugging it back in. This is a short-term solution, but worth the try first round!

Makes sure to order the latest model LED module if you replace it! Some sights are selling the original part for less...enjoy that headache in another 2 years, no thank you!

Crying shame they designed the original part w/ a dimmer, know it's an issue but don't own up to it w/ their customers, and then charge $188+ for replacement part (small strip of LED lights... w/ a dimmer)

See link in previous answer for the exact replacement LED module

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So how do I get it out, and what is the replacement part #?

da

That's more than $200 for a light. Is there another source? That's crazy talk for an fing bulb

da

Replacement part # WPW10515058

Order online at http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlp...

Agree, but this is the only solution at this time!

Some have just unplugged the light and have chosen to go without...

da

Removing the LED Module - it can be a little stubborn to remove! Use a flat head screwdriver to depress the 2x plastic tabs located a half an inch in from both side facing you. There are 2x additional plastic tabs on the backside about 1 inch in from both sides. Once you drop the front the back should follow by hand. Next remove the 2 connectors. That's it!

da

Thanks Brother! I thought so but I didn't want to break anything.

da

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I can’t possibly stress enough how easy it is to unscrew the unit from the fridge side, unplug and replug it back in. Usually solves the problem in five minutes.

PLEASE AT LEAST TRY THIS BEFORE SPENDING MONEY.

Update (02/17/2018)

Please Read!

I wish everyone would read through the answers. It's an incredibly easy fix- almost anyone can do it.

There's condensation in your fridge which creates corrosion at the connection.

Take your light housing off on the fridge side (it controls both sides.) It's pressure fit, squeeze it or use a screwdriver to pull it down. If theres any screws that need removing do so to remove the back cover. Pull the connector out and put in back in 3-5 times.

Your problem should be fixed. Put it all back together in reverse.

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Commenti:

I combined this strategy with the one below, using the electrical contact spray. I taped the "on" button down with tape so there wasn't current when I was working. Lights stopped flickering after doing this. Will report back on longer term results.

da

This solution failed for me by one hour later. Lights flickering again.

da

Thanks Marshall for the advice. Keeping my fingers crossed it continues to work.

da

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My two LED lights on the Refrigerator side went dim, and the one freezer light totally stopped working on Model WRS 325FDAM04. I popped the top Refrig LED Module out, snapped the TWO plugs out and checked looked the LED Module over thoroughly - nothing out of the ordinary, so I put it back in - still both refrigerator lights dim and the freezer module LED still not working. I then removed the Freezer LED Module (which is a pain as it’s further back in the freezer). As I was removing the ONE plug for the freezer module, the Freezer LED started to go on and off (full brightness) and the Refrigerator Lights would illuminate to full brightness as well in unison with the Freezer light doing so. Problem is the freezer light would NOT stay on as I snapped its plug back in place, so I don’t know if it’s a wiring problem or a Module problem. I jiggled the Freezer Module and its plug and wiring many times and BOTH lights would go on and off momentarily (full brightness) but the Freezer light ultimately remained off and the Refrigerator light remained dim, so I just popped the plug back in, snapped the Module back into place, and I’m resigned to no light in the freezer and dim lights in the Refrigerator. I don’t think its worth paying the cost of a new freezer LED Module even if it’s just the module itself (and what if it ISN’T the Module - can I get my money back - and then what am I to do)? The wiring (which is VERY short on the Freezer module as compared to the Refrigerator Module would be a nightmare for the average non-tech person to try and replace (and/or the plug). It would be better for all concerned if these lights were just the small incandescent appliance bulbs always used in the past - you just unscrew and replace them when they go out. Until and unless Whirlpool addresses and fixes this problem, I will NOT purchase any future Whirlpool Products, nor will I recommend anyone else purchase their products. The idea behind LED lighting is lifespan and efficiency. Well, those of us having this problem are certainly not reaping these benefits ! Bottom line is this should NOT be happening on a Refrigerator that is only 15 months old ! Something is WRONG and Whirlpool needs to address this !! .

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having same issue, they need to just use regular light bulbs and forget this new LED garbage, my fridge is only 16 months old, this is absurd!

da

I have the same model and it is 18 months old. I agree we should not be having these problems, and Whirlpool should go back to the regular appliance light bulbs that screw in and are easily replaced if ever they burn out. My last Kenmore (made by Whirlpool) refrigerator was 20 years old, and had the

screw in bulbs, and I may have replaced the freezer bulb once and the refrigerator bulb twice in 20 years.

da

My fridge side flickers and freezer side completely out in less than a year

da

Just started having same problem with model only 17 months old. Ridiculous. And we've replaced stove light on Whirlpool oven if same age three times. Whirlpool should correct these issues. Won't purchase or recommend this product.

da

Well I should feel fortunate mine made it 2.5 years before they had this happen...today. Both refrigerator lights dim and freezer out. Terrible and the cost of the modules is nearly the cost of the refrigerator.

da

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Pulled light out and wiggled the wires on the back fixed the problem must have been a loose connection

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I did this for a while until the part broke from being wiggled too many times. I even tried to solder it back together. Our frig was manufactured in 2014 and the part seems to have been made in 2010 ? Could that be right?

My husband is a paralyzed veteran, I try to fix as many things around the house as I can. It's frustrating when a part costs so much to replace when it was clearly defective in the first place. We put a lot of thought into purchasing this frig because it works well for someone in a wheelchair. (Not if you can't view the contents in the dark) Bummer. :-(

da

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I think the reason the lights fail is because it accumulates moisture in the circuitry as someone mentioned. And of course, this takes about 15 months to occur so you are out of the warranty period.

In my case, the light failed after 15 months. Luckily, I had it covered though the credit card. I got it replaced and I kept the “broken” light. The replacement lasted 13 months before the flickering again. I then switched out the replacement with the “broken" light. The “broken" light works fine without flickering. My guess is that the light dried out when I left it in storage. I will see how longer it last before flickering agin.

Update (08/18/2019)

Block Image

Block Image

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I think you are correct as everyone here mentioned it happens right after a year and warranty is up. Wished we could replace with just a regular bulb like the older refrigerators had..

da

I want a fridge with 3 40 watt bulbs so bad right now.

da

[image|1829467][image|1829466]

da

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Even easier, just duct tape the freezer and refrig light buttons flat. My worthless out of warranty Elite Sears kitchen appliances are about the worst junkers I ever bought. The matching dishwasher is a nightmare, poorly installed and the door flies downward at breakneck speed trying to break my shins. I would shoot myself in the head before ever buying anything again from Sears. Lowes for me next house.

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My appliances were purchased at an appliance store not Sears so it isn't just Sears. They make appliances now days where they are just basically throw aways, not like the appliances we got back in the day that lasted ten years or more.. They fix them where they don't last the customer so they can sale more appliances.

da

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Buy a can of electronic contact cleaner. Pull the light in the main cabin down. Disconnect the power supply. Undo both leads. Spray well both leads and the two connectors. Let completely dry. Reconnect. Plug in. Solved. You do not need new lights.

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I combined this strategy with the one suggesting to plug and unplug the contacts a few times. I taped the "on" button down with tape so there wasn't current when I was working. Careful unplugging the contacts! There is a little locking tab behind each contact. Depress the tab and the contact separates from the board easily. Lights stopped flickering after doing this. Will report back on longer term results. By the way, this strategy explains one other person's post where they went to all the trouble to replace the main board and their lights still flicker! Clean the contacts first!

da

This solution failed for me by one hour later. Lights flickering again.

da

HAVE YOU found a permanent solution yet?

da

I pulled the light out and think it may not be the problem with the light but maybe the button that is attached to the frame instead.

da

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Same strobe problem with my relatively new Kenmore. If under warrantee, have them fix. If not, you may be able to fix easily with above suggestions which all have to do with fixing the electrical connection to your light assembly (the main one). My biggest problem was detaching the light assembly.

You have a light assembly in the freezer and two in the main compartment, only the top one in main is important. Removing it was the hardest part for me: this link helped:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCY2iaOF...

Still, neither a screwdriver nor a putty knife (nor other tools) helped (I was somewhat timid). I happened to have pliers that would open over 2 inches - using them made it easy. The first time, you may have to orient over each of the two tabs to get it to work. A gentle pinch on the front/back of the assembly worked like a charm (may have to move the assembly around once it partially drops to fully detach).

The light assembly pops down with one pair of wires to a relatively wide connector and one pair to a narrow connector - in my case the problem one. The connectors remove somewhat easily be holding in tabs on the back of the connectors but they can be hard to find.

I left the power on as no bare wires were exposed - but taping the light switch (on the door frame) would provide greater safety (regular tape worked for me) (unplugging fridge is best - but then you cannot get instant feedback on what works). Sometimes, just trying to detach the attachment worked, some times moving the wires worked, some times unconnecting/ reconnecting the narrow connector worked. So far, all have been temporary. Will try the contact cleaner approach if failures continue - otherwise I guess you replace the light attachment board.

Class action unlikely but for those who use the Internet (not me usually) please try to complain as loudly as possible on forums/whatever that shoppers might see. I suspect this is a huge con designed to sell service contracts (in response to my "My old fridge lasted over 15 years with no service - why would I do that?" the salesman said "but these have fancy electronics"). It's a single lousy electrical connection!

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Tried contact cleaner but it failed. Lived with flickering which died down to nearly undetectable until it started flickering more vibrantly toward fall. Now works fine. Suspect humidity is an issue - it also started accumulating ice in the bottom of the freezer which had to be cleaned out twice a day at the worst. Less ice in the fall; no problem now. So I guess I have a great refrig until spring!

da

I sent them a letter a week ago but have not heard anything from Whirlpool on the situation of the light.. I suggested that they recall the part and replace or fix at their expense.

da

What address did you use? Our old Kenmore also lasted 20 years no repairs. I looked at fridges with the old style bulbs, but I was told those LED lights would far outlive the refrigerator. Can't believe I bought that line. After reading and checking out every thing I could, ONE paragraph kind of removed from the rest was that if both sides were out or flickering, the problem was with the button the door hits to turn lights on and off. Another said that if both fridge & freezer lights were out, that you HAD to call a technition. I will use a flashlight before I do the latter. FYI: There were only 58 questions as of today (05/05/2019). There were 69 Thousand views on youtube!!! At least we aren't alone.

da

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Lights on both refrigerator and freezer were flashing. Disconnected from wall for 3 minutes and plugged back in and nothing. It was still flickering. Disconnected again, pulled the light unit from the refrigerator side by pushing the 2 front tabs with screwdrivers and pulled the light fixture. I disconnected the two connectors and blew air on them. Plugged them back, after 6 minutes plugged fridge back. It worked, lights are back on but, for how long? Easy fix for now.

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I read most of the comments and decided to take a look at our WRS 342 FIAM C2. The dealer repair shop has left us waiting for weeks. Finally they called and said the wrong part came in. I took down the unit at the top of the main chamber like people said on the web. It was very stiff. Jiggling the plugs seemed to fix it but when I snapped the unit back the flashing started again. After a couple of times, I examined the position of the 4 rather large and stiff wires feeding into the plugs and thought that maybe those wired mechanically tilt the plugs when they are stuffed back in. Next time, I was very careful to be sure they were lined up to miss other parts in the compartment before snapping back This has worked so far.

Other comments:

No corrosion visible.

The lights were fine when I let the unit dangle. Incidentally, the wires came in through a hole with insulation wool behind it so I suspect some cold air seeps out continually. Bad.

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I did the same thing, it would work as long as I leave the lite hang, then putting it back it don't..

da

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So I have a Maytag fridge with the same light module. It is out of warranted a d not a recall even though this part is obviously defective. However after doing some research it seems to be a result of poor soldering on the board which cracks and certain resisters and the switch on J2 of the board become disconnected. I reflowed the board using a standard heat gun on normal. Used it on board on the soldered side (side with LED squares) held heat gun about 1" away and moved the gun quickly over connections for about 40 seconds. It takes a temp of close to 400 degrees to flow solder again. Let it cool and viola no more problems and saved 89 to 149 bucks. Do this first before u buy. Btw this is the main light module W10515058 LED Light. Remember to put board on a work table or similar do not hold it while using heat gun and allow to cool before picking up.

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Thank You John!! We tried several times to get it to work. My son fixed mine as you recommended! It works and no issues for 2 full days here! Happy camper here

da

No costs either!!

da

anyone tried using a good quality find tip soldering iron to reflow the solder joints? I have a Hakko with fine tip. Even the small components seems big enough with a fine tip iron

da

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Mibe is a WRS325FDAM04 with the freezer module not working. I tried the methods discussed on this thread but could not solve my issue. So I decided to “macgyver" an led module. But I had to first figure out the module voltage inputs. Believe it or not, there is a 120 VAC coming into the main module the converted to 24 VDC for the led modules. I actually measured 26 -28 VDC. So I ordered a roll of flexible water resistant led strip thru amazon. It was rated for 24 VDC , 6000K-6500K. Cut a piece of hard plastic to replace the old led board. Taped the two led strips, about 5 inches long and has 6 leds on each strip. Drilled a few holes around the strips and used small thin plastic wire ties to secure the strips to the plastic board. The led light roll cost about $10. The additional 10-pack solderless snap down connectors was $7. The plastic board was from an old chip-n-dip tray we got from dollar tree a while back. I also bought a kit of T-tap connectors but i needed it anyway. I used the t-tap connectors in case the module becomes more affordable in the near future. I'm not holding my breath on that one. All in all, this macgyvered led module works.

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Sorry, I had some pictures uploaded but I'm new to this and don't know how to show them.

da

Is it possible to get the part number or model number for the led strip you used and how did you wire those in to the factory wiring

da

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I just wonder if there is a market for a SIMPLE replacement board that would replace this module. Ideally it would just replace the board and have the second connector on it to power the other two modules in the fridge and freezer.

Hard to believe that a company would design and build such a faulty unit and then not redesign a better replacement in the first place.

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For the LED home made fix above, the original light switch has 2 connectors, a wide one and a narrow one. Which one do you connect the home made LED light strip to?

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Can anyone send me an image of the LED side of the board? Mine was flickering but I think the issue is that two resistors R15 and R17 are blown. If I had an image of their markings I could replace them. Below is an image of the board with blown resistors. Looking at the bad conformal coat job, I'd say it's possible moisture is an issue.

Block Image

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there thread on badcaps probably helps you with similar failures. R17 reads 910 ohms (both pics and post #6) R15 seems to be 138 ohms (post #8) but whole thread has some confusion with 1.8k ohm replacement (just read through the thread)

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread...

da

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I've had this exact same problem 3 times already. R15 and R17 are definitely the ones that blow. I have contacted whirlpool , sears and even jabil electronics,the maker of this defective circuit board, and no one wants to take responsibility or even admit there's a problem. We all need to call their customer service centers and demand a recall and that they redesign this LED. At $200 a pop they are not giving them away and LEDs are supposed to lasts at least a decade. The number to call is (866)698-2538 and email is whirlpool_customerexperience@whirlpool.com

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Both of my light were broken 14 months after purchasing the refrigerator, Whirlpool fixed them at no charges, and both of were broken again a year later. Whirlpool refused to fix them this time. Replacing them will cost $200, it is so ridiculous. They are supposed to last a decade as some have pointed out.

I ended up purchasing rechargeable battery powered, motion activated LED power strip and put them in the freezer and the refrigerator. Works great!

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That’s exactly what I did as well. I’m NOT paying $200 (or more ) for a technician to fix this. Mine crapped out after 15 months. Remember the small incandescent refrigerator appliance bulbs that even the most mechanically inept person could easily replace and only cost $2 ? Well, that option is gone forever! Thanks Whirlpool ! I’ll remedy this problem permanently by NEVER buying another Whirlpool Refrigerator again - got that Whirlpool CEO !!

da

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We soldered a small filter capacitor across the ac power input on the board. The first day only the main unit lit, but the next day all three came on and we haven't had an issue since.

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thejasontdavis sarà eternamente grato.
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