⟐ Answered marzo 27, 2023 at 18:57 GMT-7

Replaced my left joycons joystick recently and all was good at first. I don't often use the thing in handheld mode so I didn't notice. I have been through and checked that no ribbon cables are disconnected.

I can't find a diagram of the left joycon internals and what they do, because I feel like that would help massively.

Thanks so much in advance!!

⟐ Commented marzo 06, 2023 at 14:19 GMT-7

⟐ Answered marzo 01, 2023 at 6:00 GMT-7

How do I fix this?

⟐ Answered gennaio 10, 2023 at 23:36 GMT-7

⟐ Answered dicembre 05, 2022 at 12:35 GMT-7

⟐ Answered ottobre 06, 2022 at 11:53 GMT-7

Now that you’re up to speed, here’s the actual problem. I ordered the M92T36 from eBay, hoping to get it soldered on by a local electronics repair shop. When I got back my Switch from the repair guy, I tried turning it on in the shop, only to get greeted with the classic 2101-0001 error during boot. I told him that something’s not right, he blamed it on the fact that the replacement chip I bought had clearly been soldered before. I had seen that before, and just assumed it was because it was picked off from another Switch.

When I get home, I check the area near the chip, and although at first glance in the shop it looked fine, upon closer inspection I notice that something is missing, and something else right next to it has been moved slightly, but not enough to mess up the connections. I look up an image of the motherboard on the iFixit store and there is clearly something missing, a resistor, capacitor, something. I’m no expert on tiny electronics. I’ve attached images. Would be nice to know what that is.

One edge of the M92T36 itself looked sort of scuffed, like there was some gunk shorting all the pins together. Although probably not the smartest idea, I did my best to carefully scrape out that stuff from in between the pins with a thin needle, but that barely did anything, other than add some scratches to the PCB. Again, not something anyone would consider the best solution in this case, but it’s not like I have the tools or knowledge to figure out what’s going on in there the proper way, either.

I don’t know what I plan on getting out of this. I don’t want to wait another month for shipping from eBay only to get screwed over again, or for it to turn out that my needle strategy has nullified my chances, or that the chip itself really is faulty, or that the pins are still short circuited, but then again I also don’t want to buy a new console. Used console-only switches cost like 190 euros on eBay, and as a fifteen-year-old that’s nowhere close to cheap. I guess I’m mostly asking just to see what my options are.

Any help is appreciated.

⟐ Commented febbraio 07, 2022 at 5:09 GMT-7

I just tried to repair the card reader with a spare part bought on Ifixit.
the new reader doesn’t work better ( games are detected but error message in return). Moreover the touch screen doesn’t work any longer ….

Do you have any idea?
thanks !

⟐ Answer accepted dicembre 10, 2021 at 14:32 GMT-7

sorry for poor quality had to use a webcam but thats basically the issue

⟐ Answered luglio 27, 2021 at 13:29 GMT-7

Edit:

Was able to clean it with a toothbrush. Still getting the same error

⟐ Commented maggio 15, 2026 at 1:25 GMT-7

⟐ Commented aprile 27, 2026 at 9:28 GMT-7

The Joycons will be detected by the Switch, and both will work normally during gameplay. They just don't get charged by the Switch. The Joycons will charge normally if plugged into another Switch, so the issue appears to be with the Switch itself.

The Switch will charge itself without issue if plugged into the docking station or mains. It just doesn't charge the joycons. I've tested with mutiple joycons on both sides on the Switch and no Joycons charge on this particular Switch.

I've cleaned the Joycon connectors and their respective charging ports in the Switch with Isopropyl, but this has had no effect. I've searched online and found one repair suggesting it's caused by a diode connected to the fan, but looking into this i have a later model of the switch that doesn't have the diode.

Can anyone offer any suggestions? Switch does work fine other than this so when i sell it on i could just include an external Joycon charger or something similar, but i'd rather get the issue fixed.

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented gennaio 25, 2026 at 12:54 GMT-7

Hello all!

Recently, my Nintendo Switch would not turn on and I thought it would be a wonderful idea to try and repair it. Upon seeing a short near M92T36, I attempted to replace the chip. However, I noticed that I might have screwed up and put WAY too much solder underneath the chip. I cannot use a soldering wick to remove it, it just doesn't suck it up. I have tried using a soldering pump and that also does not work. In addition I have noticed that it is a brown/black ish color compared the the silver it is supposed to be. I am using a Yihua 853D (https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Soldering-S...). I use 840 F on my hot air gun and 850 F on the Soldering Iron. I am also using this solder (https://www.amazon.com/MAIYUM-63-37-sold...) and Clear Rosin Flux.

I have tried -

• Using 99% Isopropyl and a toothbrush to scrub this brown stuff away (didn't work)
• Using a soldering wick and a soldering pump to try and remove the excess solder
• Putting the chip on anyways (it will not sit flat)

tldr - I attempted to replace M92T36 on my Nintendo Switch, but applied excess solder underneath. I have attempted and cannot remove this solder or this brown gunk with a soldering pump or a soldering wick at 840 F hot air temp and soldering iron temp.

Here are some photos-

⟐ Answer accepted dicembre 29, 2025 at 19:32 GMT-7

I bought a used "junk" switch from Japan and it failed test #1 - it doesn't turn on. No charging/battery icon and no signs of life. I did a bunch of tests listed below, and any parts or tools used are verified working from my store bought and still working fine Switch.

1. Plug it in to charge for a few hours (official Switch charger to wall and USB to PC)
2. Use a fully charged battery from a working Switch
3. Hold the power button for 20s and then press again
4. Open up and clean all ribbon cables and re-apply thermal paste
5. Try to power on while docked in case the screen wasn't working
6. Press the power button directly on the board/ribbon
7. Test continuity on various things with multimeter (I don't really know what I'm doing here but everything I tested had continuity)

If I plug it into my computer it's listed in Device Manager as APX (!). Not sure if that means anything.

The internals were all very clean and beautiful other than a tiny bit of dust, which hopefully suggests nobody has opened it up to tinker before me.

I'm hoping someone could give me advice on what to try next.

⟐ Commented agosto 19, 2025 at 9:56 GMT-7

When I press the power button, the Switch powers on and displays the Nintendo logo, but then shuts back off 2 seconds later. I've tried holding down the power button for 30seconds and releasing, then pressing power again, but I get the same result.

It doesn't seem to recognize the wall charger. I've also plugged it into the dock, the dock power light flashes for a split second before going back off.

Unfortunately, and I don't know if this is cause for concern, but when I reassembled the Switch I had accidentally installed the SD card reader under the metal shield instead of on top, and I had almost screwed it all the way down before realizing I had it on the wrong way. The motherboard appears to be okay, but I have no way of testing it.

Ugh I'm so bummed. My switch is 4 years old and was hoping to breathe new life into it. Now I am unsure if Nintendo will operate on my Switch after having just replaced the battery myself. The battery seems to be working though.

I’ve disassembled the Switch and tried again, disconnecting the power and pressing the power button for 10 seconds to discharge the motherboard, but I still have the same problems. The game cartridge and SD card are also removed. Please advise, what should I do?

⟐ Commented agosto 12, 2025 at 13:10 GMT-7

⟐ Commented novembre 25, 2024 at 7:52 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted agosto 09, 2024 at 18:53 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted luglio 22, 2024 at 8:40 GMT-7

I successfully desoldered the LCD connector, but unfortunately when I was wicking the factory solder to tin the pads, I rubbed off some of the solder mask. Does anyone have advice or a diagram I can use to make sure all the traces still work? It would also help since I think I need to run jumper wires on the scratched off parts. The first 2 images are the before, the next 2 are the aftermath.

⟐ Commented maggio 27, 2024 at 5:58 GMT-7

I’ve seen similar threads where users suggested power cycling the TV, trying different ports etc. but that doesn’t seem to be the case here since I’ve tried it on another TV and my PC monitor with no success. I’m sure that the dock is okay - a different console works perfectly fine on my dock while my Switch doesn’t work with a different dock either, I’ve also tried a USB C hub with HDMI output which didn’t work too.

Is there anything else I can try before sending it off to a repair shop? My console is already nearly 7 years old (Mario Odyssey version) but works perfectly fine, apart from the TV output. If the console is indeed faulty, what could be the cause? I’m guessing it’s going to be a way more serious repair than just replacing the USB C port since it charges without issues.

⟐ Answered maggio 24, 2024 at 12:21 GMT-7