Does the pilot light work when the power is connected?
Did you check the overload protector for continuity as I'm not quite sure if you did or didn't? It should test 0.00 Ohms i.e. a short circuit on the meter.
You said that the pins on the compressor look OK, but did you test the windings for continuity? You should get continuity between pins C → S and C→ M. I don't know what the resistance value would be but it shouldn't be OL or infinite ohms i.e. open circuit, on the meter.
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You can't really effectively test a capacitor using a DMM (digital multimeter) but a quick and dirty test is to discharge the capacitor first by shorting out the capacitor terminals and then connect the meter across the terminals and you will see the meter register a reading as the capacitor charges. Once then reading stops or at least slows then reverse the meter leads and watch if the meter registers a reading again. Basically the meter is charging and the discharging the capacitor. You won't know if the capacitor is the correct value but at least you know that it isn't open circuit.
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You can't really effectively test a capacitor using a DMM (digital multimeter) but a quick and dirty test is to discharge the capacitor first by shorting out the capacitor terminals and then connect the meter across the terminals and you will see the meter register a reading as the capacitor charges. Once the reading stops or at least slows then reverse the meter leads and watch if the meter registers a reading again. Basically the meter is charging and the discharging the capacitor. You won't know if the capacitor is the correct value but at least you know that it isn't open circuit.
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Here's a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yD1O-Ue64I|video] that explains the principle of operation and how to test a start relay in a refrigerator/freezer that may also help to check if the relay is OK or not.
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Here's a [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yD1O-Ue64I|video] that explains the principle of operation and how to test a start relay in a refrigerator/freezer that may also help to check if the relay is OK or not.
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If you find parts that are faulty then there's not too many suppliers out there that have them. Here's a [https://encompass.com/model/DBYDCF555W|supplier] that has a start relay, but unfortunately no run capacitor or compressor, (is the compressor humming when you apply power to the freezer?). If the capacitor is faulty then the specifications are printed on the can. Unfortunately I can't make out what it shows in the image you provided but what you need is the capacitance value in microfarads (µF or MF) and the VW rating (working voltage rating).
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If you find parts that are faulty then there's not too many suppliers out there that have them. Here's a [link|https://encompass.com/model/DBYDCF555W|supplier] that has a start relay, but unfortunately no run capacitor or compressor, (is the compressor humming when you apply power to the freezer?). If the capacitor is faulty then the specifications are printed on the can. Unfortunately I can't make out what it shows in the image you provided but what you need is the capacitance value in microfarads (µF or MF) and the VW rating (working voltage rating).
Hi @lexxiplexi,
Does the pilot light work when the power is connected?
Did you check the overload protector for continuity as I'm not quite sure if you did or didn't? It should test 0.00 Ohms i.e. a short circuit on the meter.
You said that the pins on the compressor look OK, but did you test the windings for continuity? You should get continuity between pins C → S and C→ M. I don't know what the resistance value would be but it shouldn't be OL or infinite ohms i.e. open circuit, on the meter.
You can't really effectively test a capacitor using a DMM (digital multimeter) but a quick and dirty test is to discharge the capacitor first by shorting out the capacitor terminals and then connect the meter across the terminals and you will see the meter register a reading as the capacitor charges. Once then reading stops or at least slows then reverse the meter leads and watch if the meter registers a reading again. Basically the meter is charging and the discharging the capacitor. You won't know if the capacitor is the correct value but at least you know that it isn't open circuit.
Here's a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yD1O-Ue64I|video] that explains the principle of operation and how to test a start relay in a refrigerator/freezer that may also help to check if the relay is OK or not.
If you find parts that are faulty then there's not too many suppliers out there that have them. Here's a [https://encompass.com/model/DBYDCF555W|supplier] that has a start relay, but unfortunately no run capacitor or compressor, (is the compressor humming when you apply power to the freezer?). If the capacitor is faulty then the specifications are printed on the can. Unfortunately I can't make out what it shows in the image you provided but what you need is the capacitance value in microfarads (µF or MF) and the VW rating (working voltage rating).