It may be that there is a dry joint connection somewhere on the circuit board or to the circuit board from the input supply voltage connection.
When you heat it up the metals expand and make the connection, when it is cold the metal contracts and the connection is open circuit.
Is the controller display showing when it is cold?
If not then then I suggest you start looking where the power comes into the controller and follow the paths through.
Use a strong light and a magnifying glass to closely inspect the component and wiring connections on and to the control board.
Without a schematic (I can’t find one online) it will be a slow process.
Try heating only specific areas of the control board to see if you can at least narrow down the area where the problem may be.
You could try using a voltmeter to start checking where the 24VAC power comes in and then how far it gets into the circuit before it “disappears”. Trouble with this is that pressure from the meter’s test leads as you test various points may cause the connection to come good, so be aware that this may happen.
+
+
Here’s a link to the ifixit https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Rain+Bird+ESP-6TM+Control+Board+Replacement/30627 guide, which may be of some help in gaining access to the motherboard.
It may be that there is a dry joint connection somewhere on the circuit board or to the circuit board from the input supply voltage connection.
When you heat it up the metals expand and make the connection, when it is cold the metal contracts and the connection is open circuit.
Is the controller display showing when it is cold?
If not then then I suggest you start looking where the power comes into the controller and follow the paths through.
-
Use a strong light and a magnifying glass to closely inspect the component and wiring connections to the control board.
+
Use a strong light and a magnifying glass to closely inspect the component and wiring connections on and to the control board.
Without a schematic (I can’t find one online) it will be a slow process.
Try heating only specific areas of the control board to see if you can at least narrow down the area where the problem may be.
-
You could try using a voltmeter to start checking where the 24V power comes in and then how far it gets into the circuit before it “disappears”. Trouble with this is that pressure from the meter’s test leads as you test various points may cause the connection to come good, so be aware that this may happen.
+
You could try using a voltmeter to start checking where the 24VAC power comes in and then how far it gets into the circuit before it “disappears”. Trouble with this is that pressure from the meter’s test leads as you test various points may cause the connection to come good, so be aware that this may happen.
It may be that there is a dry joint connection somewhere on the circuit board or to the circuit board from the supply voltage.
+
It may be that there is a dry joint connection somewhere on the circuit board or to the circuit board from the input supply voltage connection.
When you heat it up the metals expand and make the connection, when it is cold the metal contracts and the connection is open circuit.
Is the controller display showing when it is cold?
If not then then I suggest you start looking where the power comes into the controller and follow the paths through.
Use a strong light and a magnifying glass to closely inspect the component and wiring connections to the control board.
Without a schematic (I can’t find one online) it will be a slow process.
Try heating only specific areas of the control board to see if you can at least narrow down the area where the problem may be.
You could try using a voltmeter to start checking where the 24V power comes in and then how far it gets into the circuit before it “disappears”. Trouble with this is that pressure from the meter’s test leads as you test various points may cause the connection to come good, so be aware that this may happen.
Hi @creekchub ,
Heat expands, cold contracts.
It may be that there is a dry joint connection somewhere on the circuit board or to the circuit board from the supply voltage.
When you heat it up the metals expand and make the connection, when it is cold the metal contracts and the connection is open circuit.
Is the controller display showing when it is cold?
If not then then I suggest you start looking where the power comes into the controller and follow the paths through.
Use a strong light and a magnifying glass to closely inspect the component and wiring connections to the control board.
Without a schematic (I can’t find one online) it will be a slow process.
Try heating only specific areas of the control board to see if you can at least narrow down the area where the problem may be.
You could try using a voltmeter to start checking where the 24V power comes in and then how far it gets into the circuit before it “disappears”. Trouble with this is that pressure from the meter’s test leads as you test various points may cause the connection to come good, so be aware that this may happen.