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  1. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement, Battery: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Apple designed their new iPods to be very difficult to take apart without destroying major components. Because of the metal faceplate, the metal backing, and the 13 (yes, 13) metal clips holding the case together, this is one of the toughest iPods to disassemble.

    • Proceed with caution and the warning that you may significantly damage your iPod beyond its present condition. Also, you may want a few extra pairs of plastic opening tools during installation, as they are easy to ruin when opening the iPod. Have fun!

    • Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.

    Actually, there are only 11 metal clips. From the face side:

    On the top, only 1 clip centred 35mm from LHS. Avoid the first 30mm on the LHS, and the last 20mm on the RHS

    On the RHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top. Take great care to avoid the topmost 15mm

    On the LHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top

    On the bottom, there are 2 tabs, each one 10mm in from the edge.

    Also, I bought 2 spudger bars with the battery, and found them invaluable. The plastic ones supplied are nearly useless

    astutebs - Replica

    Okay, I’m a noob, what’s an LHS…I assume it’s “Left..H…S" and RHS is “Right…H…S”, but please elucidate.

    Miguel FC - Replica

    Left Hand Side

    Right Hand Side

    darren_chalk -

    take your time, be patient, it’s hard but you can do it. Watch other videos from youtube for battery replacement for your model to supplement this written procedure - particularly with regard to releasing the battery ribbon connector. I have the hardest one to crack open I and got it done and I’m 63 years old with bad hands… ipod classic now works good as new!!!!!!

    Donald Diebold - Replica

  2. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Opening this iPod is challenging. Don't get discouraged if it takes you a few tries before the iPod is opened. One thing to notice is the angle of the plastic opening tool's tip while inserting it into the iPod. Ideally, the angle should be as vertical as possible while still clearing the edge of the rear panel.

    • Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

    I think this must be a 5th gen ipod class and the gap is larger. I have a 6th gen ipod classic, the plastic open tool can't insert in!

    The battery(thick) I bought from ifixit has problem: the cable is not same length as the original one. Be carefully.

    linhaiyxs - Replica

    AWESOME!!!! Couldn't b happier,1 hour and 10 mins to switch out headphone jack (had music through one speaker) and battery since I had it open. Really only had to use plastic spudger,metal spudger and 1.5 inch puddy knife. Plastic separators didn't really help,for 3 bucks I'm not complaining. Already had a 00 screwdriver. All told,$43.00 for parts and I have my 120 gig iPod back.

    David Fizur - Replica

    Before starting to pry open the case, look closely at the pictures in steps 21 and 23 to better understand the clips to be released and the location of the clips. It will make the probing with the spudger more effective.

    Jim Athay - Replica

    Don’t waste time here…just use the metal spudger.

    Hwyman - Replica

    what jim says. that pic of the clips should be up here so you can visualise what you’re trying to do, before you trash the rails.

    duncan rmi - Replica

    I agree with Hwyman. I spent quite a bit of time trying to open the case with the plastic opening tools but could never get it into the joint. Then I went tried the iFixit Jimmy tool along with the metal spudger for the rest of the steps. It made is so much easier. I completed the entire job within an hour.

    Bruce Baumgart - Replica

    I used a watch back removing tool, it is thinner and made of metal and opening my 5th generation classic iPod was a cinch …. really ….. and I am usually quite clutzy. I inserted it and moved it slightly to the left very gently to separate the back and front and those clips just popped open.

    It must have been okay because it all popped back together again after I replaced the battery. No issues with bent seam, back or anything I had read here.

    Thank you original poster, these instructions were great.

    Well Goodness Me - Replica

    I also ended up putting a small piece of electrical tape over the Hold switch as I kept bumping it with my fingers. That worked really well but it did leave a residue that I then needed to clean up with isopropyl alcohol afterwards.

    Hannah Tanquary - Replica

  3. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Insert another plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools.

    Stick yer dick in. Yer gonna f it up folks

    doug - Replica

  4. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 4, immagine 1 di 1
    • At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools.

    • There are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife.

    • Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, pivot the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the gap between the opening tools.

    The plastic tools are fine for holding the tabs open or for prying open partially open sides, but you're much better off using the metal spudger to open em

    parthmukeshbhatt - Replica

    I couldn't agree more about the plastic opening tools! The metal spudger worked loads better when it came to actually opening the device. Yes, the metal tool's tip was much sharper than the plastic (and hence, easier to cut your fingers on if your grip slips) but it was substantially more effective in the end. :)

    Kimberly Valdovinos -

    At my local hardware store they offer stiff and flexible putty knives - which kind is better for this purpose?

    anonymous 4032 - Replica

    Don’t do this! The putty knife is too wide and will damage the inside of the case. You can see in the photo for step 19 how the metal clip rail has been bent out of shape. You need to use a narrower tool the will fit between the protrusions on the clip rail (which is where the clips actually are). This video shows a better, albeit more dangerous, method using an x-acto knife. I used the method shown in the video but with a #18 chisel blade on the x-acto knife. With the iPod on its back, I inserted the blade with the beveled side down. Then I pried the side out slightly and peeked through the crack with a flashlight to make sure that the blade was positioned between the protrusions, readjusting as necessary. I used multiple knives to prevent released clips from reengaging. Use this technique at your own risk, and wear adequate hand and eye protection as the blades are very sharp and somewhat brittle.

    Robert Watkins - Replica

    I used the iFixit Jimmy instead of a putty knife. I also watched the x-acto knife video that Robert Watkins linked to in order to find where the clips are located. I slid the Jimmy into those locations until the tool bottomed out and then move on. I only used the metal spudger (to initially open a gap), the Jimmy (to open the clips), and occasionally a plastic spudger (to hold open gaps while I relocated the metal tools to a new section). Pro tip: Use the Jimmy as a letter opener after you fix your iPod.

    Hwyman - Replica

    I used two small putty knives manufactured by a company called Albion Engineering. They make caulk spatulas in multiple sizes. Took me less than 2 minutes to get the back cover off, with no damage to the sides or clips. And - it was my first time! Highly recommend these, especially if you are in the business.

    Ronald Zanarotti - Replica

  5. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Slowly flex the putty knife, as shown in the picture, to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged.

    • The theory behind this method is, rather than attempting to not bend the rear panel at all, to bend it in a favorable manner that allows you to easily restore it later. Therefore, any bend in the sides of the rear panel should be drawing the lip of the rear panel away from the iPod, rather than pushing out on the curved surface. This method also disengages as many of the side clips as possible.

    I disagree with the “theory” here. You don’t have to bend the case at all. Watch the x-acto blade video on youtube (it’s linked above in the Step 4 comments). The idea is to slide whatever wide flat tool (putty knife, x-acto blade, iFixit Jimmy, etc…) in between the clip and the body. Setting the iPod flat on the table instead of holding it will help and you won’t cut yourself if a tool slips out. As you disengage clips, you will find that the body will start coming out on it’s own without having to flex your wide tool and bending the case in the process.

    Hwyman - Replica

  6. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the putty knife from the iPod and reinsert it closer to the corner of the iPod, using the same wiggle method as before.

    • If at all possible, do not bend the corner of the rear panel.

  7. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 1
    • Between the lock slider and headphone jack, insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

    • You may find it easier to carefully flex the putty knife downward in order to create more of a gap for the opening tool, but be sure not to bend the corner of the rear panel!

    The clip holding this part of the iPod together is different from the others around the iPod and you might want to keep the spudger in place until you've opened the iPod completely.

    Karsten - Replica

    This is how I broke my whole entire screen.

    Joe Kenny - Replica

  8. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Near the center of the display, carefully insert a metal spudger into the gap created by the plastic opening tool.

    • It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward.

    • Using the metal spudger, disengage the single clip on the top of the iPod.

    This was the most difficult step in opening for me. Place the device on a hard surface and press with increasing force until you feel the clip push down and out of the way.

    joe - Replica

  9. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Near the other top corner, insert an opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod

  10. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • On the other side, insert an opening tool into the seam between the front and back of the iPod.

    • You may find it easier to angle the opening tool stuck in the top corner in order to create a sufficient gap.

  11. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the plastic opening tool from the top corner and insert it into the seam between the front and back of the iPod, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the two tools (as done on the other side).

  12. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • At an angle, carefully insert a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the seam between the two opening tools.

    • Again, there are thin metal rails running along the inside of the rear panel, so take great care when inserting the putty knife.

    • Once the putty knife has cleared the lip of the rear panel, angle the putty knife so that it is vertical, and carefully (but firmly) wiggle it straight down into the iPod via the gap between the plastic opening tools.

    • Push with your fingers on the rear panel behind the putty knife to minimize bending. Ever so slightly flex the putty knife to ensure that most of the metal tabs on this side of the iPod are disengaged.

  13. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • The metal clips near the corners are notorious for tenaciously gripping the front panel. It is necessary to disengage these clips in order to open the iPod.

    • Carefully insert a metal spudger into the area near the stubborn metal clip.

  14. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 1
    • Gently wiggle the metal spudger down so that it is all the way in the rear panel.

  15. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • Gently begin to disengage the clip from the front panel.

    • It is easy to create a noticeable bump in the rear panel here that is difficult to repair. When prying the tab free, try to have the metal spudger pivot on the edge of the rear panel rather than bending the rear panel outward.

  16. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    • Continue to push up on the front panel with the metal spudger until the metal clip releases.

    Συνεχίστε να πιέζετε προς τα επάνω το μπροστινό πάνελ με το spudger μέταλλο έως ότου ελευθερωθεί το μεταλλικό κλιπ.

    ermiskaspis - Replica

    I couldn't have said it better.

    mike - Replica

  17. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • There are two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the rest of the iPod. In the following step, be careful not to damage these ribbon cables.

    • Grasp the front panel assembly with one hand and the rear panel with the other.

    • Take a deep breath!

    • Gently (GENTLY) disengage the remaining clips on the rear panel by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels away from each other (think of the bottom of the iPod as a hinge), taking great care not to damage the ribbon cables holding the two halves together.

  18. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use a spudger to lift the retaining flap holding the connector cable.

    • The retaining flap only needs to lift up 2 mm. This is a sensitive connector and too much force can remove it from the logic board.

    • Slide the orange battery ribbon out of its connector.

    Be careful here. I screwed up and ruined the iPod's motherboard when trying to reconnect the battery cable.

    greekman07 - Replica

    very easy tear off battery connection from the logic board,very careful when open that plastic lock.

    andraskiss - Replica

    Be EXTREMELY careful not to lift too far up and remove the whole piece from the motherboard. You'll never get the pins to line up correctly again without breaking the solder joints and ruining the motherboard if you do. iFixit failed.

    bcook -

    totally screwed up, pulled out the whole

    agnesmadness - Replica

    the connector came out with the battery cable ,almost lost it. I did get it back in though.

    elsprato13 - Replica

    Yeah, this battery connector is extremely fragile if you pry too hard you will lift the whole connector plastic off the board. A really, really bad design from Apple having that type of connector like that. The white plastic part is not secure at all to the logic board so when you pry the tab up, you may lift the whole thing up.

    rgarjr - Replica

    Had no problem disconnecting the cable, I used a nylon spudger to press the connector down while using a plastic pry tool to pull the cable up, be patient, it might take time.

    Tip for reassemble: Use a tweezer to reinsert the cable, again, it might take time.

    Luis Soto - Replica

    ifixit fail. Be VERY careful pulling up that lever or the whole connector will pop right the !&&* out and you will never, never, NEVER get that sucker back in. Time to buy a new one, %#*!^@.

    Jeff White - Replica

    Just poke this latch up from behind. It's a little scary, but it literally just popped straight up for me.

    Gordon Krupsky - Replica

    You MUST put the warning in the instructions not to pull out the connector. Everything worked perfectly, seriously perfectly, until I went to put the battery cable back in and realized I had popped the connector out and it pulled all of the metal prongs out. Without a way to reconnect metal to metal, this basically just killed my ipod. It's trash now. Such a disappointment. Will not be recommending this site until you fix this one instruction.

    djbagwell - Replica

    Took me a long time to figure it out. The retainer literally pulls up ... straight up, not hinged. The retainer is the (at leeast on mine) grey thingy with a rounded top. I finally got the courage to gently pry it up (2 mm = 1 smidgen) and tthe connector pulled/fell out. Gods know if I'll ever get it back.

    Larry Osborne - Replica

    I pulled the connector off the motherboard, trying my best to be gentle. The instructions need to be more specific about what to pull and in what direction. The spudger wouldn't grip onto anything and I tried to rock the retainer out, not sure which way it needed to go before releasing. Then, voila, the whole thing came off. That's the end of life for my iPod classic, which I've had since 2008.

    David Harbin - Replica

    Is there a way to reconnect? Does it have to be re-soldered?

    Blake -

    1 use a fine tool to lift the brown tab of the latch vertically up

    2 use tweezers to grip the ribbon along its horizontal run then lift out. Don’t grip the last section that bends into the motherboard connector or you might short circuit the battery conductors, which are not insulated for the last 12mm or so

    3 make sure the latch is fully up when you want to connect the ribbon of the new battery, as it falls down very easily and stops the new battery ribbon entering the connector

    anonymous 2502 - Replica

    I released the battery first (with the spudger), which enable the whole case to be butterflied. Then, using a splinter probe with a slight hook lifted the retaining clip, and removed the existing battery lead. Then using a very fine tweezers inserted the new battery cable, and pushed the retaining clip back into place, while holding the cable with the tweezers. All good.

    astutebs - Replica

    Jesus is there a way to buy the brown clip?? It was dangling and I just popped it out of the socket!! When I tried to put that back in, it just broke its leg.. I need help guys! The motherboard is safe though.

    Sizun Cho - Replica

    Late answer by myself. There ARE brown clips available in Aliexpress. I bought them!

    Sizun Cho -

    It would be extremely helpful if we had a better closeup of these parts. It seems the color of these parts is different from model to model. Maybe even from MB to MB. Getting the cover off was easy. But now I have no idea what I am looking at.

    Ronald Zanarotti - Replica

    Definitely need to hold the retainer in place while you pull the ribbon. Worked like a charm!

    Ronald Zanarotti - Replica

    1. Looking directly down on the iPod, use a small tool, apply a very light force on the back of the brown retainer pushing toward the front of the iPod.

    2. Looking directly down on the iPod, use a small tweezers to apply a very light force to grasp the battery cord as close to the brown retainer as you feel comfortable, Try not to touch the brown retainer. While still holding the tweezers, use another very light force to lift the battery cord end toward the back of the iPod.

    (I skipped to step 24 because none of my tabs were bent. Also, I was very careful with the headphone cable/keep the two halves together. )

    zeek stahl - Replica

    List the caution first before the step. This is crucial and I thought I did it myself. Turned out I just didn't put it back together correctly and didn't get the battery connected. When I opened it up the second time the battery cable was just dangling. Need to make sure the connection is snapped back down and give a slight tug on battery cable with plastic spudger.

    SEAN Tanton - Replica

    Yup, I’ve joined the flock of people who pulled the whole connector out. I was trying my hardest to reassemble without breaking anything and thought something needed to be flipped down. LESSON LEARNED: The retainer hinge pops up and down VERTICALLY, like toast in a toaster. If the black head and white tongue are flush at rest, it’s closed. Hook the black around the convex side, then lift it up. When open, the black part is noticeably taller.

    Ally Gator - Replica

    Yep. pulled the whole thing apart. the explanation and the picture are not clear enough. they should add a picture where the cable is pulled to show that you don’t want to pull the whole thing

    Syavin Eka - Replica

    Happened to me as well but not because of iFixit’s guide, I followed a Youtube tutorial that didn’t mention this could happen. Anyways, just leaving a comment here to say that it’s possible to reconnect the connector to the motherboard (assuming it’s not damaged beyond repair) as long as you know how to solder stuff (and have the tools for it). Otherwise taking your iPod to a repair shop might be your only option (other than throwing it away but please consider not doing that if the iPod can be fixed, we have enough e-waste already).

    Héctor Cabrera - Replica

    The best way is to pull the battery flat cable alone, and insert it after done.

    gperiusdaufenbach - Replica

  19. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Place the rear panel next to the iPod, being careful not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.

    Be careful not to damage the hold switch ribbon there...

    Karsten - Replica

  20. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 20, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the hard drive up with one hand so you can access the headphone jack ribbon beneath.

    • Use a spudger to flip up the plastic tab holding the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.

    • Slide the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector.

    • The rear panel is now free from the iPod.

    I don't know if this step is totally necessary. If its not feel free to skip it just be careful to avoid tearing the ribbon.

    kevman12 - Replica

    I recommend not doing this. I couldn't figure out how to reattach and broke the jack in process. There is no need to do this step, just be careful not to strain this connector.


    This is probably the most difficult part because the jack is so tiny and it's not obvious that it contains a "flip up" retainer. A very difficult step.

    robertdraznik - Replica

    How do I get that little 90° clip to stay back down with the new ribbon in it

    Nar -

    How do I get the little clip to stay down holds the year Jack ribbon to the motherboard

    Nar -

    I just pulled. The thing flipped up automaticly 90° degrees.

    tellmiger - Replica

    This step (and next few “repair” steps) is not worth doing unless you mangle the case when you pry it open. If it doesn’t look all bent up, leave this ribbon attached and skip ahead.

    Hwyman - Replica

    I detached the cable by flipping the clip as described.

    Attaching the cable again was no problem using the plastic spudger to turn the clip back to its ‘close position’.

    Georg - Replica

  21. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 21, immagine 1 di 1
    • Now to repair the damage caused by liberating the internal parts of the iPod Classic! It is highly likely that at least one of the metal clips in the rear panel has been bent upward. These clips must all be pointing downward in order to reinstall the rear panel.

    Right, I thought the way that this was phrased is a tad confusing. Basically, once you've separated the front and back panel, insure all the prong-like-clips around the sides of the back panel are all down - not sticking up after opening the ipod. I skipped the step because it was confusingly put. I ended up successfully swapping the battery, however when I went to put the ipod panels back together, they wouldn't clip back properly. This made it very fiddly. Anyway, hope that helps.

    Joe Parkes - Replica

    Please post a picture of what they are supposed to look like? I think you mean bent outward.

    Jason Bidwell - Replica

  22. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 22, immagine 1 di 1
    • Take the broad, flat side of the metal spudger and push the clip down, taking care not to tear the thin metal rail from the rear panel. Alternatively a pair of flat pin nosed pliers can be used to reduce risk of slipping and damaging the headphone jack.

    • Be careful not to damage any of the headphone jack parts while shaping these clips!

  23. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • On a clean, hard surface, lay the rear panel on its side. Carefully but firmly push down on it, rolling the entire lip side back into its proper spot.

    • It may be necessary to do this multiple times in order to achieve optimal straightness on the sides. It is better to have the edges of the case pushed in slightly too far rather than not far enough, because the reseating of the front panel will bend the rear panel into its correct alignment.

    • Now that the rear panel is back to a beautiful condition, you can move on to repairing the iPod!

    My iPod wasn’t closing very well, then I noticed that I didn’t do this. Thanks!

    TheYootz Media Group - Replica

    I ended up used a set of squeeze clamps with soft rubber jaws to very carefully apply pressure to either side of the case and top and bottom all around the perimeter in order to square it back up.

    Hannah Tanquary - Replica

  24. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 24, immagine 1 di 2 iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 24, immagine 2 di 2
    • The battery is attached to the rear panel with adhesive. Be careful not to tear the orange headphone jack or hold button ribbon cables when removing the battery.

    • Use a spudger to lift the battery and the attached orange cable out of the iPod. If you have a 160 GB iPod, the battery will be thicker than the one pictured.

    • If you have trouble removing the battery, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun on the back of the iPod to soften the glue holding the battery in place. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

    Just wanted to say THANK YOU to whoever made this tutorial!! Kinda unclear in some areas, but I got it! Thanks so much!!!

    shaunlovesyou - Replica

    I just want to say that with out this tutorial I could never have taken my iPod apart the biggest help was the addition of the putty knife. It took about 30min cause I took it slow. My iPod is charging and seems to be working thank you

    PMM - Replica

    dont do this, as u see, any one can edit it, it's like wikipedia, not reliable.

    sophia - Replica

    I do this and my ipod works now!

    loquetraoul -

    Thanks for this. It worked for me without any hitches. Your presentation, products and packaging are all first rate.

    tripplc - Replica

    All very easy to do. Ive just "frankensteined" a 100Gb classic and working all fine. Very simple and clear instructions.

    Been using iFixit for almost 10 years in my data recovery company and always been informative in getting Macs opened easily and with great results

    michael earl - Replica

    Within the first minute, I pushed a plastic opener through the flesh of my opposite index finger. Within the second minute I peeled back about 3/16" of my index finger nail. Within the third minute I broke the tips off of first one and then the other of the supplied plastic openers. On the fourth minute, I threw the entire kit -- brand new replacement battery included -- in the trash. Thanks for absolutely nothing!! Ken Queale

    K Queale - Replica

    Sounds like you're just clumsy...

    bjoernskytte -

    Absolute waste of money. I have been working on it for an hour and half. Blue tools wore out the first 1/2hour

    Dave Sherman - Replica

    My hold button ribbon was in the battery glue and tore when I pried the battery loose. I 'm going to try to replace that part with luck that will be all I have to do.

    elsprato13 - Replica

    I just did the exact same thing. In retrospect, it strikes me that if I would’ve warmed the iPod’s back with a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, this would’ve been a lot easier. Learn from my mistakes people. :-)

    Greg Rankin -

    There are several hard tasks in this process and this step was hard for me. Took me a while to detach the battery without damaging the cables. But with some patience I succeeded.

    Great guide, by the way.

    Luis Soto - Replica

    I have been trying unsuccessfully to get into my ipod to replace the duff battery for a long while. Now, armed with your instructions and the right tools I have done it! (not without considerable frustration with those pesky clips I might add). The plastic spudgers are useless by the way. It took a while to work out how to release the battery ribbon cable and larger picture of the clip action would help. I too found the battery glued to the ribbon cable beneath it. Perseverance, patience and a steady handed are a must for this one. Well done and thank you!

    Colin Kaye - Replica

    I did it all, plugged into the charger for 10 hours and it shows charging… I unplugged it and is dead.

    Nora Saba - Replica

    Battery replaced. MB spooled up when I plugged the unit in. Now waiting for it to charge. This process was actually pretty easy with the help of this tutorial. A lot easier than an iPad repair with all the glue. No way could I have done it without the help. So far: every iFixit! repair I have done has been a success. Thanks!

    Ronald Zanarotti - Replica

    When finish replace battery, need to restore?

    TOAT POOPONG - Replica

    No you do not

    Bailey Halifax -

    The instructions were great! I completed the repair with an hour. I can’t ay enough about the parts, tools, and repair guides from iFixIt. I recently replaced my hard drive with an SSD drive on my iMac and the repair guide for that was spot on as well. Thank you, iFixIt!

    Bruce Baumgart - Replica

    Any luck fixing the hold button ribbon Greg? Mine ripped too.

    Lachlan Griffin - Replica

  25. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement, Headphone Jack & Hold Switch: passo 25, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use one hand to hold the orange ribbon cables in place, and peel up the black tape securing the cables to the rear panel with your other hand.

    I saw some YouTube videos where they were able to reuse the black tape on the new backplate, so I took some time to carefully remove it, without success. However, since I was replacing my iPod 7th Gen with a 240GB disk (thicker than the original), the new thicker back plate did not need the tape since the cables are separated form the case.

    Luis Soto - Replica

  26. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 26, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the two black Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the rear panel.

    • These are SMALL! Be sure you have a size 00 screwdriver on hand

    One tip when reassembling. These screws are very tiny and difficult to handle even with magnetized drivers, so I used the PH000 tip of the iFixIt kit to pick the screws and screw the first turns. Then switch to a PH00 to tighten them. Actually, using a PH00 of a cheaper set I bought to open the iPod, worked better since the length of the screwdriver was shorter than the case.

    Luis Soto - Replica

    You can also use a Phillips 000 for these. I also accidentally picked up the wrong screwdriver and got one out with a Phillips 0, but I think there's a definite risk of stripping your screws if you're not careful with this one.

    Gordon Krupsky - Replica

    When re-assembling, if you dip the tip of the screwdriver a couple of mm into a pot of vaseline, then place the screw onto the tip, it will hold the screw nicely in place until you tighten the screw (ie it will stick to the tip without dropping off)

    anonymous 2502 - Replica

  27. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One black Phillips screw securing the hold switch near the corner of the iPod.

    • One silver Phillips screw securing the other side of the hold switch.

  28. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lift the hold switch free from its housing on the rear panel. Don't remove the hold switch completely at this time, because it is connected to the same cable as the headphone jack.

  29. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 29, immagine 1 di 1
    • Slide the headphone jack out of its housing on the rear panel.

    • Lift the headphone jack and hold switch assembly out of the iPod.

  30. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 30, immagine 1 di 2 iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 30, immagine 2 di 2
    • If you're just trying to remove the rear panel, you can skip Steps 30 and 31.

    • If your replacement headphone jack includes the white plastic hold switch, simply reinstall the replacement headphone jack. When replacing the hold switch assembly note the locating pin near the hole the silver screw position, concentrate on locating that and the rest falls into place. Once it's all screwed in remember to peal the backing tape off the contact pad just along from the jack.

    • If your replacement part does not include the plastic hold switch, follow the next steps to transfer the plastic hold switch to your new headphone jack.

    • Remove the single Phillips screw nearest to the hold switch.

    • Lift the plastic portion of the Hold switch away from the orange ribbon cable.

    • Ensure that the black notch lines up with the gray slider during reassembly of the switch (see picture 2).

  31. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement: passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use the small iPod opening tool to carefully peel the orange ribbon cable and attached black Hold switch up from the metal backing.

    • When re-attaching the replacement Hold switch, make sure the two small posts on the back of the switch are aligned with the two holes in the metal backing.

  32. iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement, Rear Panel: passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rear panel remains.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Membro da: 24/09/2009

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5 Commenti


Can I swap rear panel fat to slim? I mean I have 6/7’th gen 120 Gb with slim SSD and what to close it with rear panel from 6’th gen 80 Gb - for 3 mm less width. So question: Is this 80Gb-iPod’s rear panel is compatible to my 120Gb-iPod?

Alex - Replica

Yes, you can. I upgraded the hard drive with a solid state and needed the extra space.

Jason Bidwell -

Just would like to have a confirmation that the rear panels of 5th Gen. (Video) and 6th Gen. (Classic) are identical. Some replacement panels are listed as “fits 5th, 6th & 7th” and some are specific…

Ryo Hayashida - Replica

What is the plastic for the charging port on the panel called?

The RETRO Past - Replica

I mean the plastic that was left in the panel

The RETRO Past - Replica

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