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Introduzione

Segui questa guida per rimuovere o sostituire il dissipatore.

Non dimenticarti di seguire la nostra guida per l'applicazione della pasta termica dopo aver rimosso il dissipatore.

    • Rimuovi le 10 viti seguenti che fissano il coperchio inferiore al case superiore:

    • Due viti Pentalobe P5 da 2,3 mm

    • Otto viti Pentalobe P5 da 3,0 mm

    • Nel corso di tutta la riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati che ritorni nel suo posto originario per evitare danni al tuo dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Replica

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Replica

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Replica

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Replica

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Replica

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Replica

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Replica

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Replica

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Replica

  1. Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.
    • Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.

    • Con delicatezza, tira il coperchio inferiore per staccarlo da quello superiore.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Replica

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Replica

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Replica

  2. Il case inferiore è collegato a quello superiore con due clip di plastica in posizione centrale. Durante il rimontaggio, spingi con delicatezza il centro del case inferiore per riattaccare le due clip in plastica.
    • Il case inferiore è collegato a quello superiore con due clip di plastica in posizione centrale.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, spingi con delicatezza il centro del case inferiore per riattaccare le due clip in plastica.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Replica

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Replica

  3. Se necessario, rimuovere la copertura in plastica attaccata alla scheda contatti della batteria.
    • Se necessario, rimuovere la copertura in plastica attaccata alla scheda contatti della batteria.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Replica

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Replica

  4. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica. Accertati di sollevare solo il connettore e non lo zoccolino, per evitare il rischio di danni permanenti alla scheda logica.
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Accertati di sollevare solo il connettore e non lo zoccolino, per evitare il rischio di danni permanenti alla scheda logica.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Replica

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Replica

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Replica

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Replica

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Replica

  5. Piega il connettore della batteria in modo che non interferisca, per prevenire un contatto accidentale con lo zoccolino durante la riparazione.
    • Piega il connettore della batteria in modo che non interferisca, per prevenire un contatto accidentale con lo zoccolino durante la riparazione.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Replica

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Replica

  6. Rimuovi attentamente il supporto ammortizzatore in gomma della ventola dal bordo del dissipatore. Il supporto della ventola abbraccia il dissipatore e si incastra negli slot integrati nella presa d'aria. Durante il rimontaggio assicurati di incastrare le sue alette nelle rientranze nella presa d'aria. Il supporto della ventola abbraccia il dissipatore e si incastra negli slot integrati nella presa d'aria. Durante il rimontaggio assicurati di incastrare le sue alette nelle rientranze nella presa d'aria.
    • Rimuovi attentamente il supporto ammortizzatore in gomma della ventola dal bordo del dissipatore.

    • Il supporto della ventola abbraccia il dissipatore e si incastra negli slot integrati nella presa d'aria. Durante il rimontaggio assicurati di incastrare le sue alette nelle rientranze nella presa d'aria.

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - Replica

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Replica

    Use a flashlight and magnifying glass to see how the bottom of the bumper that wraps around the heatsink sits into the fan duct before you remove it. If it is not seated properly it can make noise. You’re welcome.

    Ron LaPedis - Replica

  7. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per rimuovere i quattro adesivi in schiuma dalle viti del dissipatore. Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per rimuovere i quattro adesivi in schiuma dalle viti del dissipatore.
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per rimuovere i quattro adesivi in schiuma dalle viti del dissipatore.

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - Replica

    I re-used the ones that I pulled off, and my guess is that they aren’t really necessary since they seem to just fit between the Torx screws and the bottom cover. I really doubt they are part of the heat removal system but are there to prevent vibration.

    Ron LaPedis - Replica

  8. Svita le seguenti viti che fissano il dissipatore alla scheda madre:
    • Svita le seguenti viti che fissano il dissipatore alla scheda madre:

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 2,7 mm (cromata)

    • Quattro viti Torx T5 (nere)

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - Replica

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - Replica

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - Replica

    Mine is also a philips head

    Justin Parry - Replica

    They are Torx T5 on my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Ron LaPedis - Replica

    I’m doing 2 early 2015 13” macbook pro’s right now simultaneously and both have same size torx for all 5 screws. Upgrading logic board in one and putting its old logic board in dead mac.

    BTW, I’m a double EE, been doing this a long time and wanted to mention that i use only high quality German made tools for my torx and other drivers. I have found repeatedly, that the cheap tools that are given away in kits, wear out fast, sometimes after one use and lead to issues with fasteners. My drivers are made by WIHA. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on doing this more than once or even once!

    Ross Elkins - Replica

    yes, Phillips head screw on 13-inch early 2015 retina for my unit 2.7 ghz, 8gb ram

    robert - Replica

    For those of you that do have the Phillips head for the single screw on the left-hand side, do you have a driver suggestion that worked well for you, without stripping the head? I have tried the 000 bit and one of the 000 drivers from ifixit but those are beginning to strip the head. I need a driver that has deep drive but I’m unsure as to which brand I should buy. I’ll spend the money for the right driver. Thanks!

    Ray Grogan - Replica

    Dumb question - if my replacement logic board comes with a new heat sink attached, can I ignore these steps (other than removing the red-circled screw)? Hoping so since this part seems like a PITA.

    Steve Kroodsma - Replica

    I too have a Phillips head for that one screw (early 2015 13” retina MBP, technically an Apple refurb). The bit I used is labelled J000 from my precision toolkit. Be careful since it so small, but i had no issues with tearing up the screw head.

    Edward Wilcox - Replica

  9. Rimuovi il dissipatore dal portatile. Quando rimonti il tuo portatile, segui la nostra guida per l'applicazione della pasta termica per riapplicare la pasta su processore e dissipatore.
Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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5 Commenti

what part should i purchae to get the rubber fan bumper?

Walid Shraim - Replica

Bonjour !

Merci pour ce tutoriel de qualité ! Pour la pâte thermique, j’ai opté pour la Grizzly Kryonaut… Un peu overkill pour un MBP 13” de 2015, mais cela devrait contribuer à sa longévité !

Une remarque cependant : sur mon modèle, la vis en ROUGE de l’ETAPE 9 n’était pas une Torx T5, mais une Y00 ! Cela ne m’a pas posé de problème car j’avais le kit complet de tournevis, mais cela l’aurait été si je n’avais acheté qu’un P5 et un T5 ! Faites attention !

Bonne continuation !

PS: si certains doutent de leurs capacités à réaliser cette opération, sachez que je suis grand débutant en informatique et que je n’ai eu AUCUN problème. La partie la plus ardue étant le retrait du connecteur de la batterie !

Merlin Calvez-Martinez - Replica

Used this guide to pop the heat sink and scrape off the old thermal paste. Cleaned and re-applied with new paste, hopefully leading to better thermal performance. One thing I noticed is that the heatsink doesn’t cover the second module (presumed to be the integrated GPU) next to the CPU? Perhaps this is why thermal performance is so abysmal on these little guys.

Ming Lee - Replica

In my MacBook Pro, the screw in step 9 that is farthest away from the CPU is a Philips screw, rather than T5 Torx.

I bought my MacBook Pro in 2016, over a year after it came out, so this might be different depending on when yours was manufactured.

Daniel Korzhenevich - Replica

What is the 4 screw size of heatsink? mine are stripped, need to buy new 4

rick - Replica

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