Introduzione
Se la luce della ricarica NON si illumina e la batteria non si carica sul DSL, il filtro di alimentazione EM10 sulla scheda madre potrebbe essere difettoso.
Questa guida ti permette di trovare, testare e rimpiazzare il filtro.
Puoi trovare dei filtri EM10 di ricambio su internet per qualche euro l'uno.
Puoi trovare dei filtri QUI
Rimuovere il filtro EM10 e bypassarlo potrebbe lasciare la scheda madre non protetta dal rumore dell'alimentatore.
Rimuovilo e bypassalo a tuo rischio!
Cosa ti serve
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Svita la vite a croce Phillips che fissa il coperchio della batteria al case inferiore.
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Solleva il coperchio della batteria verso l'alto con uno spudger o un'unghia e solleva il case inferiore.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare entrambi i piedini in gomma dal DS Lite.
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Rimuovi le seguenti viti che fissano il case inferiore al corpo del DS Lite:
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Due viti a croce Phillips dorate da 4,3 mm
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Una vite Tri-Wing nera da 3,9 mm
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Una vite a croce Philips cromata da 3,3 mm
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Tre viti Tri-Wing cromate da 5,5 mm
I cannot remove the tri-wing screws.
Same to me. I tried opening the case by force. Broke several parts of the motherboard…
Leon -
I can't remove the final tri wing screw in the battery section and it looks like I grinded the screw out too much for any screwdriver to work.Is there anything I can do?
From what I know, the only solution is to drill the screw out with a very small-headed drill :/
Polaris -
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Inserisci il bordo di uno spudger tra il case inferiore e quello superiore vicino all'angolo superiore destro del DS Lite.
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Fai scorrere con attenzione lo spudger lungo il bordo destro del DS Lite, creando nel frattempo un'apertura.
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Continua a far scorrere lo spudger lungo il retro del DS Lite finché la maggior parte del case inferiore è stato separato da quello superiore.
Don’t forget to remove the GBA cartridge placeholder before removing the backside
You forgot to mention to remove the battery compartment Phillips screw.
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Solleva il case inferiore dal resto del DS Lite.
When you reassemble, make sure that you have the volume and power buttons in place, and make sure they are in the right position to line up with the switches on the motherboard. If they are not aligned, you risk snapping off the tiny switches on the motherboard (in which case, you are in for some soldering work).
I should have read the comments first - broke off the power switch because I didn't know about aligning it. No way I can do soldering, guess it's for the dustbin :-(
Emma -
Whoops, remembered the power button but forgot the volume slider.
I'll do it later.
There is no way that the fact you have to line up the volume and power switch toggles upon reassembly is not in this guide. I just carefully followed this guide to replace the shoulder buttons but ruined my DS lite because I didn’t read these (practically hidden comments due to the design of the website) comments and broke the power switch. Thankfully there are 150 million DS I can buy second hand but “repeat the steps backwards” wasn’t sufficient in this repair. And that’s what this website is for.
Ryan -
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Solleva entrambi i grilletti dal DS Lite.
Anything after step 7 is unnecessary if having to replace the left or right trigger button(s).
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Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'antenna Wi-Fi dal suo attacco sulla scheda Wi-Fi.
There is absolutely no need to follow steps 8-13 if like me, all you needed to do was access the face buttons for cleaning/replacement. Once you have unscrewed the motherboard from the front casing you can just flip it up, making sure you take the front screen with it. You will have full access to the buttons and all of their contacts. No need to remove the wifi board and microphone cable, etc. Also, replacing the ribbon cables for the screen is especially frustrating. Avoid taking them out at all costs, if you can.
what is the "etc."?
Rita Cao -
For those replacing the bottom screen, you can just skip to step 13 and go from there. No need to remove the wifi board, antenna, etc.
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Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della scheda Wi-Fi dal suo incavo sulla scheda madre.
Do you have to put back in the WiFi board? As far as I know it does not require it to play games.
With the Nintendo servers now off, and all the games are playable without WiFi. That being said, I don’t know what is used for local multiplayer.
Polaris -
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Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per separare il bordo destro della scheda Wi-Fi dalla scheda madre.
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Rimuovi la scheda Wi-Fi dal DS Lite.
I took it apart successfully and I replaced the screen but I've put it back together and it the green light turns on for about 2seconds quiet dim, brighter for about 1 and then it turns off... I then took the wifi board out, and it turned on! What have I done to it and why doesn't it work with it and only without?!
Exact same symptoms for me : on boot up, green light would stay on for 1 second, then shut down. Without wifi, green light would stay on, but blank screens. In fact, it's because on boot up, DS will check if wifi is present, and stop if there is an error. Then, it checks for upper screen, and after that, for lower screen. If one of these is not responding, DS will turn off. I check my cables (upper screen) and DS started again with no problem.
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Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del microfono dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
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Usando uno spoudger, posiziona con cura, tenendolo delicatamente premuto verso il basso, il cavo dell'antenna (con il suo connettore rivolto verso l'alto e lontano dalla scheda madre) nello spazio tra i chip sulla scheda madre.
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Lentamente e attentamente tira il cavo dell'antenna finché il suo connettore si trova sotto il lettore delle cartucce del DS Lite.
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Continua a tirare finché il connettore esce da sotto il lettore dal bordo destro.
I can't for the life of me get this freaking antenna cable back when putting everything together, it keeps getting stuck under slot-1 ... how do you aid it through? I'm just pushing it through using the cable itself, but the connector gets stuck somewhere close to the other side and the cable pushing won't do anything but flex the cable.
I had some .015" solder that I fed through the other side and wrapped around the antenna cable to help guide it when I was feeding it back through.
Fantastic guide, although you !@#$%^&* :P forgot to add that you need a Soldiering Kit at the LAST step, thanks..
I did mine without have to soldier, but then again I was cannibalizing the upper screen from one DS to another.
Tried to add this but unsure if it will stay but here is my advice for the cable feeding.
When reassembling and attempting to feed the antenna cable back under the DS Lite game cartridge reader the cable will likely kink and be difficult to feed through.
Therefore tie a piece of white cotton (or another visible colour) thread tightly around the cable, just below the connector. Then feed the cotton under the DS Lite game cartridge reader and through to the other side. Then gently guide the connector back through by pulling on the white thread and moving either up or down to clear obstacles.
Attach a thread to the antenna wire BEFORE removing the antenna. Pull the antenna throught with the thread attached. After you get the antenna out, cut the thread from the antenna but LEAVE THE THREAD threaded thru the cartridge slot. Tape it to the cartridge slot so it doesn't fall out while you're working on the DS. After repairing, re-tie the thread to the antenna and use the thread to pull the antenna back thru to where it belongs. PULL GENTLY!
it was ez until i tried to put it back >:(
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Usa un'unghia o la parte piatta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore del cavo a nastro del touch screen.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per sfilare il cavo a nastro del touch screen dalla sua presa.
The little black ribbon clip broke off and now I can't put it back on. What do I do now???
Same Problem here :( touc dosnt work anymore
Mine did the same thing, will it still work?
If I take it to a shop could they fix it????
There should be an added caution remark when removing the ribbon cable from the connector. If the black clip breaks, you're screwed. I have found the connector on another website for about $6. Then the issue is having the right tools to remove the broken connector and soldering on the new one.
How in the world do you get the ribbion cable back in there?
This requires care to make sure the black clip does not break off. If it does, replacing that connector will be a microsoldering job likely to exceed the value of the board.
It is also worth noting, that you can simply leave this connector as you found it and not remove the ribbon cable, and still complete this repair. Unless you intend to remove the lower LCD from the mainboard or if it is interfering with the microphone cable (white) routing, it will not be an issue.
Leaving this connected will also help keep the lower LCD from flopping around when you remove the mainboard.
This is tricky! I used my finger nail to open it since I was scared to put too much strenght with a spudger. Be really careful when moving the retaining flap. Just open it 90°, no more or you’ll breack it!
Putting back the ribbon of the (new) touch screen was the hardest part. The ribbon was bent to the side and my fingers too big to grab it withouth bumping on the mother board.
I finally found that holding the mobo with my left hand, looking at the ribbon from behind and pushing it with my index was more convenient, although my index was bumping on the retaining flap, thus partially closing it. After many trials and sweat, I finally inserted it and closed the flap! But the ribbon detached from te slot! :’( I put it back easily this time (after reopening the flap of course). And closed the retaining flap, pushing a bit harder this time, making sure I could feel a “click” confirming the proper closing. Don’t put too much strenght on it though!
The slot to insert it is so tiny! Use a magnifying glass if you can.
The microscopic flap came off in this step and I think you can’t ever put it back on, given you have no space to work with. This should really be explained better.
Has anyone had any luck replacing the retaining flap if it just falls out? Mines not broken, I just can't figure out how to get it back in.
You don’t need to remove this flap if you’re not removing the touchscreen (and even so, you can do it later). The touch and LCD screen can come out with the motherboard, so this cable doesn’t interfere with the disassembly.
The cable won’t go back in, and got damaged whilst I attempted to put it in.
This step didn't warn that the black retaining flap is easily breakable. Not only can it come off easily but hinges can break off. Unknown if kapton tape will be able to hold this in or if this part can be ordered third party. Very stupid explanation of the step. Broke my digitizer permanently while only trying to make a minor repair. Looks like this is a common complaint and the guide should be immediately taken down, edited, and then only put back up when it is safe.
Guide should have to explain how to mend or replace this part if it breaks since it's such a common problem.
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Svita le due viti a croce Phillips da 3,4 mm che fissano la scheda madre alla scocca superiore.
This has changed since, the right hand screw has been replaced by a screw under the battery, I didn’t have this screw in mine
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Usa un'unghia o la parte piatta di uno spudger per ruotare attentamente verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore del cavo a nastro dello schermo superiore.
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Tira la scheda madre lontano dalla DS Lite per scollegare il cavo a nastro dello schermo superiore dalla sua presa sulla scheda.
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Rimuovi la scheda madre dalla DS Lite.
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Ora puoi aprire l'aletta di bloccaggio dello schermo inferiore come fatto per quella dello schermo superiore e rimuovere lo schermo inferiore dalla scheda madre.
this part on putting it back together is a straight nightmare, anyone got some tips on doing this quickly? i'm just getting a flickering bottom screen which is supposed to be an upper display connection problem, not sure if i'm getting the ribbon cable in deep enough. or an up close view of it in there so i know im not forcing it
I don't think there's a quick way for this, but I can tell you that the piece at the end is supposed to fit in all the way, and stop when you get to the corners of the bottom of it. A better way to explain this: put it in until you no longer see the gold part of it, or until it reaches the orange part of it.
After my first reassembly, the top screen was not working (bottom screen briefly flashind and DS turning off imediatly after swithcing on).
I found out it is the top screen that is not connected correctly.
You have to insert the ribbon until the part which is wider than the rest of the ribbon, almost bumps on the white connector.
This was too difficult with just my (too big) fingers. I used the spudger to push the ribbon from behind and maintain it when closing the retaining flap. This is kinda tricky, but it worked!
Guilhem's point is crucial - the ribbon connectors wider wings must be only a miniscule fraction away from the connector, or you'll get the flash screen of death. This is well worth checking especially as the later stages of manipulating the ribbon through the silver ring (if doing a full shell replacement) can make you feel like you're damaging the ribbon cable. Also check to make sure the black clip is fully closed, otherwise even the smallest movement during reassembly will pull it back out.
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Il filtro di ricarica EM10 si trova vicino al connettore di ricarica sulla scheda madre.
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Se il filtro non è presente o palesemente rotto, passa direttamente allo STEP 18.
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Usa un multimetro per testare il filtro EM10: misura la resistenza tra ciascuno dei pad di saldatura gialli e tra ciascuno dei pad di saldatura ciano. Se è tutto OK, dovresti avere quasi 0 Ohm tra ogni set di pad. NON dovresti avere alcun collegamento tra i pad ciano e i pad gialli. Se il filtro non supera uno dei due test, deve essere sostituito.
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Rimuovere il filtro EM10 difettoso. Usa un saldatore per sciogliere la saldatura e solleva delicatamente il filtro con una pinzetta o una pinza, facendo attenzione a non staccare le tracce di rame dalla scheda madre.
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Saldare il nuovo filtro EM10 in posizione, assicurando il corretto orientamento. Se necessario, controllare il nuovo filtro con un multimetro per confermare prima dell'installazione.
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Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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16 Commenti
you really don't need to remove the wifi board completely, just pop off the cable with a plastic tool or a small flat head even. Getting the cable back under slot one is tricky, and I repair these for a living. Straighten out the cable out first, there are two clear paths back to the other side, parallel to the 2 little twin fuses just at the 7 o'clock of the EM10, and another just above the EM10 itself, again running parallel.
Actually, I have found success by using a conductive pen on Fuse 1 and Fuse 2 and reassembling. Try this before actually taking out a part that belongs there. Watch this video for an easy explanation. It worked for me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=502qoZO4...
Why do they even make a filter? Is dumb, also they left it on the bottom where is harder to replace, they should it just had a second smaller battery that would be easy to replace, or something more efficient, more like a strong resistor or something else, also those parts shouldNOT be solder with the board, they should come integrated inside, which is better than javing them solder.
they made it because they didnt know better back then, they also might not of had the tech
Photo140 -
Had a DS Lite with error as described: Console worked fine, but the battery won't charge. No light.
At first i exchanged the battery, then i replaced both fuses F1 and F2, replaced the filter, replaced even the power connector. Still same error.
All not worth the effort :(
Bought a console with broken displays and took mainboard from there. Way less expensive ...
good for you i might do that now
Photo140 -
Man, I can't find an em10. Plus soldered some lead onto the fuses to see if it'll work. No luck.
i know im a little new to the convo and not many people worry about the ds lite but i broke the em10, is there any specific orientation to the em10, i mean obviously it goes in as image showed but does it matter if i rotate it 180 degrees? thanks in advance!
Did you ever get an answer to this? Gonna have to do this repair in a few days.
Also curious if you figured out if the orientation matters.
bunni -
I just did this replacement on my own DS. The orientation does not seem to matter beyond just the horizontal direction as it's rectangular and not square.
Came here cause I managed to crack my em10. I was doing a shell replacement and got a bit impatient and when I noticed it wasn't charging I opened it up and saw the em10 top part slightly lifted with a crack, I slightly pressed down so it looks normal but the crack is still there. Is there any way I could just find a way to "glue" it make or would I actually need to replace the em10? I saw the video connecting the F1 and F2 and thought maybe that would work but having other opinions would be amazing.
Recently I repaired a DS Lite with two broken screens. So I replaced the screens, with a lot of help from Ifixit.com (thanks for that) and also replaced the shell. So far so good, everything worked fine, but when I tried to charge the DS Lite nothing happened. No light nothing. So I checked both fuses, which had continuity and than I found this repair guide. I checked the EM10 filter and it had two cold solder joints on the cyan pads. I resoldered them and now the DS Lite charges again :) Thank you so much for those detailed guides, They really help a lot.
just removed my em10 and put in 2 small wires to bridge it. seems to work fine. should be good.
Can you show me how do you did it
A Phillips #000 (PH000) seems to give a more secure fit (no slipping) than the stated Phillips #00.
Ritchie - Replica
This will be good for mods
Matthew Bevins - Replica
I'm having a problem getting the screw to unscrew. I have the right Phillips ( it was included with all the stuff I got this) Any tips. it doesn't look like the screw is spinning but i haven't played my Nintendo DS Lite for 3 years.
whittlegirls - Replica
bonjour j’ai une petite question pour vous fais trés longtemps que j’ai pas utiliser mon nintendo ds lite et quand je le branche il allume 1 fois orange après il s’enteint même s’il est brancher ça veux tu dire qu’il faut que je change de batterie ? Merci
Marie-Julie Richer - Replica
Soit un changement de batterie, soit la carte-mère a peut-être un court-circuit :/
Polaris -