Use this guide to replace a broken inverter cable.

  1. Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
    • Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

    I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.

    ServiceDocs - Replica

    This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...

    Thanks again!

    skraggle - Replica

    Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job! Two thumbs up!

    Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!

    mikeutter - Replica

    Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.

    Mike Woodruff - Replica

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Calvin - Replica

    Citazione da Calvin:

    My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

    Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?

    skraggle - Replica

    Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.

    josefsalyer - Replica

    Somehow the plastic disc with the slot for a coin got dislodged from the case, and I can't seem to get it open now. Any tips/links on how to open this without the aid of the plastic disc?

    Peter Wood - Replica

    i broke my disc off as well. I used two toothpicks to rotate the thing. hi tech.

    howard bederman -

    Outstanding guide - thank you!

    owen bullock - Replica

    My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?

    Beth Tomasek - Replica

    Better leave the back pack where it cannot fall. Hindsight is so much better than foresight . I learned the hard way too!

    Loy Lum - Replica

    Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.

    Patrick Langvardt - Replica

    Be really careful while doing this to not use too much force while doing this step, because the plastic disc can break off and it can be a cosmetic issue along with functionality issue. This happened to me first hand so please take my word for it…

    Aaron Cooke - Replica

    Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.

    harwood - Replica

  2. Lift the battery out of the computer.
    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

    I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.

    Jean Wallemacq - Replica

    I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!


    Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.

    Jean Wallemacq - Replica

    • Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.

    • The screws are captive to the metal memory cover so you cannot lose them.

    please pay attention that screws are native to metal pieces otherwise you are going to be a stupid like me trying to unscrew unsuccessfully until I reread the guide

    manochu - Replica

    Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”

    decristoforo - Replica

    The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!

    Wytchkraft - Replica

    I found when putting this back in that I had to use a spudger to work the mesh/foam into the slot where the memory cards are so the bracket would lay flat again when screwed back in.

    slwatts2 - Replica

    What size screwdriver

    edward greene - Replica

    • Rotate the L-shaped memory cover so it clears the battery compartment opening and lift it up and out of the computer.

    That looks so easy!

    caiden rutledge - Replica

    • Remove the following 3 screws:

      • One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

      • Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

    • If the screws stick in the case, you can use a magnetized screwdriver to draw them out.

    • The shorter of the three screws goes in the middle.

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    ryan64 - Replica

    Quote from ryan64:

    I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

    I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.

    Alaerus - Replica

    The top two screws didn't seem to want to come out, and I saw no reason they had to, so I left them there, put a little piece of tape over each so they wouldn't fall out.

    HandyMac - Replica

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.

    colmcostelloe - Replica

    for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience

    manochu - Replica

    I also did not find that I needed to remove the two 14.5 mm screws. I unscrewed them but they seemed designed to stay with the case and I found it did not seem to affect anything to just let them stay there.

    Alice - Replica

    • Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:

      • One 3 mm Phillips #0. (Head: 2.75 mm. dia.)

      • Two 4 mm Phillips #0 on the either side. (Head: 2.75mm dia.)

    • Take extra caution with these screws as they can strip easily.

    On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

    The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

    LaNoobieFixer - Replica

    On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.

    scottgriz - Replica

    I didn't look closely at these screws when I took it apart, but when I went to put it back together (two weeks later) I found I had two longer (4mm?) screws, and one short one. So I put the longer ones in the two end spots, the short one in the middle; they all seemed to go in okay. (Maybe the screws got changed around the last time the cracked top case was replaced, when the MB was in the Apple shop under warranty last year.)

    HandyMac - Replica

    Me too. I had two longer 4mm screws here, and one 3mm screw. And I didn't pay attention to what holes each screw came out of. I put them back in a random order and it seems fine.

    Thomas -

    My early 2008 MacBook was the same. 2 x 4mm in the outer and 1 x 3mm in the centre.

    Ernie K -

    You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.

    colmcostelloe - Replica

    I needed a tweezers here. These screws are tiny!

    If you lose one you may have to remove the RAM (by pulling the appropriate lever) and gently slide out the screw.

    colmcostelloe - Replica

    oh thanks I thought the screw was lost forever

    Ike Broflovski -

    I couldn't pull over the two 3 mm Phillips on the step 6, how could you've done it?

    Eliotus - Replica

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    BeatJunkie - Replica

    please note the position of the screws because when you are reinstalling them you might get confuse. this ones go below or under (sorry English inst my first language). There are two screw holes this steps are for the ones below.

    manochu - Replica

    Quote from BeatJunkie:

    To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

    Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)

    Cong Trieu - Replica

    For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.

    Paul Collins - Replica

    I have two MacBooks, one white and one black and both had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw, opposite of what was in the main document

    doublel - Replica

    In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..

    Julien Lesage - Replica

    Mine was A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz. Of course I did not keep track of the screws and ended up with two shorter ones and one longer. Replaced them with the longer one to the right of the three. Got it done with a Wiha PH00 screwdriver. Had better hold than the bit from the precision screwdriver kit.

    quentinlow - Replica

    me too. Got it done with a iFixIt PH00 screwdriver.

    Johhnie Doe -

    Stripped a head on my left screw (A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.0 GHz). Used a precision 1.5 slotted screwdriver to get enough bite to screw it out and back in.

    Daniel - Replica

    I couldn't get the suggested Phillips #0 tip to grab. PH#00 worked, but I found the PH#000 to work the best.

    steveeb33 - Replica

    I found this step to be the hardest to put back because of the angle - even with iFixIt's driver Flex Extension.

    steveeb33 - Replica

    • Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).

      • Two 6.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.

    Cong Trieu - Replica

    Screwdriver PH0

    Projectors Band - Replica

    • Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.

      • Four 3.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x 4mm thick)

    It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.

    The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.

    Martin Born - Replica

    I used PH0 for this

    Projectors Band - Replica

    • Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:

    • The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.

      • Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

      • Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    Outer screws (red) are shorter (7mm long), while inner screws (orange) are 11mm.

    ptb - Replica

    I found these screws quite loose; upon reassembly, I wanted to torque them but found the case would distort towards the center, so I had to leave them fairly loose

    David A - Replica

    I cannot get the two outer screws out for the life of me- and afraid of stripping them. Already see I'm doing some damage. Help? What can I do?

    Olivia - Replica

    Are you sure you have a proper screwdriver? From my experience you really need to use the correct size and not just something that seems to fit.

    Jakub Clapa -

    Olivia, you can screw back the longer screws that go on the inside. In the photo marked with orange. Then open and close the lid of the MacBook a few times. This will fit the 4 screws more properly in the steel inner-frame and they can come a little bit loose.

    Close the lid again. Leave the inner screws untouched and begin with the outer screws (marked with red) with indeed a perfect matching screwdriver head (with a big and long grip for your hand). This worked for me perfectly without damage. Success!

    S van Dam -

    When reassembling, do not fully tighten the two 11 mm (orange) screws. When the plastic starts to flex, back it off until the strain on the plastic housing is released and leave it at that. The two 7.25 mm (red) can be snug.

    steveeb33 - Replica

    • Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive side of the computer.

      • Two 5.2 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.3mm dia. x 3.5 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • It is not necessary to remove the similar screws on the other side of the computer.

    The screw farthest from the optical drive would not come out, all other screws came out fine with my screw driver and the screw looks ok, any tips on how to get the screw out?

    Aidan Morey - Replica

    With some of the screws that can happen. I had it too. This did it for the MacBook I was repairing: 1. Open the MacBook. Then press firm but gentle on the upper case with your hand or fingers while trying to loosen the screw with your screwdriver. 2. I used a different screwdriver from the same size diameter but with a much larger hand-grip. Success!

    S van Dam -

    • There's a trackpad and keyboard ribbon connecting the upper case to the logic board, so don't pull the upper case off entirely just yet.

    • Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.

    • The upper case is likely to stick at the connection above the optical drive. If this is the case, first free all other sides, then proceed to pull upward on the upper case from either side of the optical drive opening.

    • If you stand the base on end to get a better look you may displace the total of 4 grey plastic clips that hold the keyboard in place. Don't panic. They slide into slots at the top right-most edge near the CD drive.

    There will be 4 grey plastic clips just right of the DVD drive. Note their position as they will fall out in the next steps.

    tim7866 - Replica

    No such clips found on my early 2008 version.

    Ernie K -

    Thank you ifixit, it was huge help for me, I did it and everything just works great.....THANK YOU!

    Dako - Replica

    As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.

    David Higgins - Replica

    I had no problem at all in this step, the left side was already unlocked when I open the MacBook, the right side was a little tricky but i was able to pull it out in less than a minute

    manochu - Replica

    The front left had an annoying little metal strip between the outside of the case and the tab. It's very easily bent, so the tab was caught on it. I spent a good deal of time trying to push and pull various things (and even just yank the @$!^ thing off), but eventually I found that if you undo the two screws you are told not to in step 7, the battery connector can be pulled up and out, leaving enough horizontal room to pull out the metal strip (with a little bit of coercion). I left it out when I put everything back together.

    James Pearson Hughes - Replica

    Thanks for the tip. Saved me!

    Joe -

    Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.

    Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.

    Thomas - Replica

    When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.

    Andrew Dent - Replica

    I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?

    Eliza - Replica

    If the upper case sticks above the optical drive, don't pull straight up, but up and to the left at the same time.

    frood - Replica

    Wow, pulling both up and to the left made all the difference for me, to unstick the keyboard around the optical drive.

    Neil Steiner -

    The plastic around the edge is very thin and cracks easily, so be gentle while using the opening tool.

    Henry S - Replica

    On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.

    Hendryk1982 - Replica

    this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!

    Chinarut Ruangchotvit - Replica

    • While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.

    • If there is no black tab, you can also use a spudger to gently pry the connector from its housing. This connector is tall, so be sure to pry straight up.

    • If you happen to break your upper case cable when removing the upper case, we stock the cable individually and we have a guide that makes replacing it easy.

    • While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.

    • Upon reassembly, there are 4 grey plastic clips on the optical drive side of the keyboard (refer to second picture). They must be installed in their slots for the keyboard to snap in properly.

    • To make the reassamble process easier, it's better to pull out the clips first by pulling it straight up gently. Be careful not to put too much strength because it will break.

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your macbook!

    spi - Replica

    The entire connector broke off the logic board when I was disconnecting the keyboard just now. Be extremely careful!

    Chris - Replica

    I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?

    Roger - Replica

    I could not get the keyboard off my the body... (black macbook I don't know if that makes any difference). It was stuck bottom left hand corner, so I had to bend whatever was stuck to get access to the logicboard etc... any reason why this is the case??

    Takuma - Replica

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    carlos - Replica

    Great repair guide! Changing the top case was pretty easy and it saved me a lot of money.

    Harry - Replica

    it was really easy, i had no experience whatsoever installing or unistalling mac parts (or pc either). it just took me less than 25 minutes, and i just finish and Im typing from my new upper case keyboard.

    manochu - Replica

    After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!

    jgreengold - Replica

    Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...

    jgreengold - Replica

    Quote from carlos:

    not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    E Chambliss - Replica

    Quote from E Chambliss:

    Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    carlos - Replica

    Quote from carlos:

    no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    Francisco - Replica

    Citazione da Francisco:

    Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

    my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts

    carlos - Replica

    Quote from spi:

    When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!

    How do you do it? I can't get it out

    Superb guide thank you guys

    eli - Replica

    This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.

    Andrew Dent - Replica

    Be very careful while you pulling the black tab! It's better to use spudger to pry the connector from it's housing while you gently pulling the black tab.

    eaksut - Replica

    Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.

    Johhnie Doe - Replica

    After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(

    Sorry my bad english!

    glecyo medeiros - Replica

    • Grasp the white plastic tab attached to the hard drive and pull it to the left, removing the hard drive from the computer.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Remove the two Phillips screws from the front edge of the optical drive.

      • Two 3.25 mm Phillips #000, (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .3 mm thick)

    After installing the caddy successfully, I could not make the screw on the right fit in again. The distance between the hole and the caddy seemed to be too big.

    ThomasKS - Replica

    !! I can't remove the left screw, and ended up "screwing" it.. it's a round hole now. What should I do?

    wkurosawa - Replica

    • Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board. This cable can also be disconnected by prying straight up using a spudger.

    Pull straight up from the left

    tjkredo - Replica

    • Disconnect the newly revealed display data cable. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.

    The display cable was difficult to disconnect for me. I had to pull firmly and use the spudger at the same time to finally pop it off.

    supershibbydude1 - Replica

    Pull the connector firmly straight up.

    Eric - Replica

    I have found over the years that a connector puller is invaluable in these situations. I believe that I bought mine from iFixit. In steps 16 and 17 you'll have to partially de-route two cables at the base of the connectors in order to get a good grip with the connector puller.

    randy3833 - Replica

  3. Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    • Disconnect the (once again) newly-revealed hard drive cable.

    This step is not necessary

    nycstb - Replica

    Left Off Here

    velopro - Replica

    When reconnecting the Hard Drive Cable to the logic board (Step 17) I ran the HD cable on top of the microphone wire, and the other wire that runs parallel to it, when I should have run the HD cable underneath those two wires. This resulted in the hard drive not being connected on startup, and a lengthy troubleshooting session to figure this out. So save some time and install this underneath the two wires, just like you found it when taking it apart!

    mrphiliprichard - Replica

    I've found it very useful to take photos of wire routing on disassembly for later reference.

    randy3833 - Replica

    • Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive. Lift the foil tape from the fan side, leaving it attached to the optical drive.

    • During reassembly, be sure to route the cables beneath the tape before reattaching it.

    I was gently pulling up the tape with a spudger, but the tape snapped clean in half right at the edge of the optical drive. I'm really pretty surprised because I see no reason why it would have done that.

    Neil Steiner - Replica

    Leave the foil on the fan side cause you’ll be taking it off the optical drive anyway

    Luke - Replica

    • Pull up the display data cable from along the edge of the optical drive to reveal a silver Phillips screw.

    I had to unscrew a screw securing flat ribbons keeping cables in position between beeper and fan to reach for the dvd screw

    t0m - Replica

    • Remove the 2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the optical drive.

    • The Bluetooth cable may be covering the screw. If so, carefully push it aside. You may need to unscrew the cable clip to free the cable enough.

    STEP 20 - IMPORTANT= This screw secures a mounting bracket on the optical drive. This bracket's eyelets are slotted. The right side of the bracket has a tab inserted in the bottom case. After removing the screw, use the spudger to slide the bracket to the left. This disengages the tab from the right side of the case, thus allowing the optical drive to be lifted out in step 23.

    xtian - Replica

    As an addition to xtian's note, the bracket that you need to slide right (and a spudger is very useful here) it may be because the rear right (as in the picture) of the optical drive needs to be GENTLY pushed down as the bracket end needs to slot into a hole on the right hand side of the case.

    Ernie K -

    After removing the screw gently push the metal tong (which the screw was holding) towards the fan. This will unlock the drive mount.

    Tom Roinisto - Replica

    Please add this notes to the actual step. I missed the comments and bent the bracket.

    huso - Replica

    I used a #000 Phillips.

    Eric - Replica

    I found it helpful to remove the screw sitting to the lower left of the speaker.

    patjmccarthy - Replica

    There is only one screw holding the optical drive down, the one circled in red. the one in orange is for the ground loop for the microphone and right speaker cable. Also, a spudger makes quick work of moving the cables out of the way to get to the screw for easy removal/replacement.

    Leo LeBron - Replica

    As I tried to refit the optical drive, the plastic mount for the brass threaded socket that receives the screw crumbled like an old tooth. Only thing for it was to ditch the plastic and superglue the brass socket into place on the case - seems to have worked. (People who design parts/fixings that involve strong materials held in place by weaker ones should be imprisoned). I also had to remove the sliding bracket on the drive and cut 2/3mm off the right hand end to get the screw hole to align with the brass socket, also seems not to have caused any harm. Never thought I would find myself lashing out with the superglue and wielding a hacksaw inside a laptop...empowered!

    muir mackean - Replica

    • Lift the Bluetooth antenna board from the right side of the optical drive.

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    • Deroute the hard drive cable from along the front of the optical drive.

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    • Lift the front edge of the optical drive and slide it up and out of the computer.

    On the the optical drive there is a sliding-bar (secured by two screws, which fixes the drive in the right edge of the Alu-frame) that has to be shifted to the left when taking the drive off. Especially, before putting the optical drive back to the computer, make sure that the the sliding bar is in its leftward position in order not to block the insertion of the drive. Then shift the bar gently to the right thereby fixing the drive's position.

    armin - Replica

    • Remove the following 3 screws:

      • Two 3 mm Phillips near the right speaker.

      • One 6 mm Phillips threaded through a hole in a plastic finger above the subwoofer.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screw above the subwoofer too tight or the plastic could crack.

    • Santa Rosa and Penryn MacBooks do not have a c-channel. If you are disassembling either of these models, remove only the single 3 mm Phillips screw from the right speaker and skip step 26.

    If you don’t have the c-channel it seems you can skip steps 24, 25, and 26.

    mike s - Replica

    Santa Rosa and Penryn use a #000 phillips for the speaker screw.

    Eric - Replica

    • Lift the right speaker out of its housing and set it to the side.

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    • If you have a Santa Rosa/Penryn model, skip this step.

    • Using a spudger, gently pry up the white plastic slot and slide the metal c-channel to the right and away from the display.

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    • Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.

    • Pulling on this connector vertically will break the socket off the logic board. This connector should be removed horizontally by gently pulling the microphone cable toward the screen while working a spudger between the connector and the socket.

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    • Lift up on the black right speaker cable with one hand, and deroute the microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.

    • This metal clip may not be present in all models. Be sure that the cable is free from any hold downs around this area before proceeding.

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    • If you didn't remove the ground loop screw in step 20 above, remove it now. It's a 7 mm (may be 4.2 mm in Santa Rosa/Penryn models) Phillips screw securing the ground loop in the right speaker cable and microphone cable to the metal framework.

    Put close attention to how the cables are laid out to get the same staking order, when reassembling I did not care about the order and as a result they were not as "Flat" as before and made the DVD drive insertion a bit more hard as it did not sit as deep as it should, so I had to re arrange the cables and once they were right the DVD drive sat perfectly. I would suggest taking a photo before re-routing them.

    Daniel - Replica

    For the second time that I changed an inverter I skipped to disconnect the microphone cable (steps 27 to 30) because it's really hard to wiggle the connector out of its socket and it looks very fragile.

    By doing this you can not move the display assembly far from the case BUT it's not a problem for the next steps (front bezel and clutch cover).

    I won time and did not have to replace display and microphone cables what is not easy because of the lack of place and if the SuperDrive is compressed it can block CDs.

    Not sure if that will help...

    Charlocom -

    • Deroute the microphone cable and the black display data cable from the tabs at the bottom of the subwoofer.

    Is the silver wire really the microphone? I noticed wear right down to the wire on mine, and the macbook often has yellow/goofy looking screen, then adjusting the angle helps.

    Luke - Replica

    On my Penryn model, it helped to deroute the data display cable and the microphone cable from under the tabs of the subwoofer by loosening the two Phillips screws to the right of the speaker.

    randy3833 - Replica

    • Remove the single 3 mm Phillips screw securing the ground loop in the display data cable located just above the Bluetooth board.

    The ground screw also holds down a ground loop that is part of the speaker cable. The two loops may be stuck together so you need to carefully separate them.

    kyoungdale - Replica

    • Disconnect the three antenna cables from the Airport card. There may be a square foam piece over the logic board connector.

    • Disconnect the inverter cable from the socket by inserting the spudger between the right or left edge of the plug and the socket, and prying gently upward. (Do NOT pry the entire socket off the board... you must pull the plug from within the socket.) The inverter plug lifts vertically out of the socket. Do not pull it in the direction of the connecting wires or you will tear the socket off.

    • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, there are only two antenna cables and the black inverter cable is in a different location.

    Don't pry the plastic connector from the board, but rather, the plastic connector is two pieces. Separate them.

    Joscon5 - Replica

    For the MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn: the inverter cable is a bit tricky. I was fooled into thinking that there were pins which went INTO the inverter cable. Because of this, I was afraid of lifting up on the cable (off the board), but this is what you actually must do to separate them.

    For clarification, here's a pic (low-res, sorry) of the inverter cable disconnected from it's on-board plug:

    jetrost - Replica

    The inverter connector comes off vertically from the motherboard.

    James - Replica

    Can I get a replacement connecter that the inverter cable connects to and solder it on? I broke mine taking to of how it says in the guide

    edward - Replica

    i also broke mine off the motherboard on accident. it appears to be a fairly clean break. is there anyone who has had luck soldering them back on?

    michael -

    Antenna connectors pull up.

    Eric - Replica

    About disconnecting the inverter cable. I had more luck wedging the pointed end of spludger between the PCB near the cables and the shoulder of the connector nearest the display. I then pushed the pointed end of the spludger away from the display and the connector popped up off the socket. when trying to use the spludger on the sides of the socket, i deformed the plastic edges of the socket.

    Linda Vanasupa - Replica

    This worked well for me too.

    Jeremiah Banks -

    Pull vertical for santa rose models as well, be delicate with this part, very tricky.

    Abraham Q - Replica

    The inverter cable was fine if a little fiddly, but I can't get the antenna cables back on at all - anyone got any ideas? Even with bright lights and magnifiers I can't see why they won't go back in. (And I don't know why ifixit thinks I'm called facebook -- Sam)

    facebook - Replica

    ... and of course as soon as I ask for help I find the answer. Don't try to push the plug vertically into the socket on the Airport board, start it at an angle with the cable running up and away from you towards the screen, then rock it back horizontal and it just clicks into place. -- Sam

    facebook -

    A method to remove the inverter cable connector that just worked great for me: I hooked a dental pick underneath the connector at the cable side (display side) and picked in right up out of the socket. I wiggled it a little first to make sure that I only had the connector hooked.

    randy3833 - Replica

    After destroying a similar connector on a fan replacement with a dental pick, I've decided to withdraw my recommendation to use one. Best to use the flat end of the smaller spudger and pry the connector out from under the wire (screen) side, very slowly, working from side to side.

    randy3833 - Replica

    • Remove the following 2 screws from the right hinge mount:

      • One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the hinge mount.

      • One 10 mm Phillips on the right side of the hinge mount.

    • For Santa Rosa/Penryn models, see second picture and remove:

      • One 3 mm smalller diameter Phillips on the far left.

      • One 5.2 mm larger diameter 4.2 mm head Phillips in the middle.

      • One 10 mm Phillips from the far right.

    • Lift the right hinge mount with the small plastic piece out of the computer.

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    • Hold the display with one hand while removing the screws from the left hinge mount.

    • Remove the following 3 screws from the left hinge mount:

      • One 7.2 mm smaller diameter Phillips from the right side.

      • One 5.2 mm larger diameter Phillips from the middle.

      • One 10 mm Phillips from the left side.

    • Lift the left hinge mount with plastic piece out of the computer.

    • Check that the cables on the right are not trapped under other cables.

    I tried this last night and the screen fell backward, cracking the components of the hinge. Be careful and support the screen here once you unscrew the hinges!

    TheLordSmurf - Replica

    What is that plastic hinge thingie called in step 34. The piece broke and I'd like to replace that.

    shawniemichael8 - Replica

    • Grasp the display assembly on either side, and lift it up and out of the computer.

    For those wishing to go further into the LCD, the steps are identical to the MB CD, see this repair guide for more:

    MacBook Core Duo Inverter Replacement

    MC25 - Replica

    • The following steps should be identical for both white and black MacBooks.

    • Use a thin plastic card to release the tabs holding the front display bezel to the display assembly. There are five tabs along the left side of the display bezel.

    • Don't use a card that cannot be replaced if damaged. The clips can be difficult to remove and the card can bend and break, rendering it useless.

    When you go to replace the bezel, look at the back side and disconnect any of the little snap-on tabs that may not have stayed in the metal bracket around the LCD. On a white MacBook they were grey, about 4mm x 8mm. They work best if you put them into the metal frame separate from the bezel and then snap the bezel into them.

    The best way to remove them seemed to be by placing my thumb over one edge (so they didn’t fly off) and prying with a thin, flat screwdriver flat against the bezel tab.

    mike s - Replica

    Hello I've seen a video on Youtube where the guy skipped all the previous steps and got to the inverter without taking the screen off. Seems like it saves a lot of time and potential problems, since I have never done anything like this. Does anyone recommend doing it? I see it's more accessible to just try to get to the inverter without taking the screen off first.

    Miquel - Replica

    • Continue to free the tabs along the the top edge of the display assembly.

    • Be careful when working near the iSight camera.

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    • Next, free the five tabs securing the display bezel on the right side.

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    • Lift up the front display bezel from the top and use your plastic card to free the tabs along the bottom edge of the display bezel.

    • Make sure that your card is between the metal frame around the LCD panel and the display bezel and not touching the LCD panel itself.

    • After freeing all holding tabs, lift the front display bezel away from the display assembly.

    A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

    It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

    These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

    WillyDavidK - Replica

    This was a very helpful tip. I made the mistake at first when reading your note, thinking that the gray clips were supposed to be on the bezel, not the display, but quickly corrected that.

    For anyone confused, the bezel is the thin plastic part surrounded the display, and the display of course houses the LCD.

    Another note:

    The easiest way to remove the clips from the bezel is from the side and pry up. To reattach them to the display, put one end of the clip in first, and then use tweezers to poke in the other end of the clip.

    Citation de WillyDavidK :

    A note for anyone panicking because they can't get their front bezel back on:

    It is common for the grey clips holding the bezel to the display to come up along with the bezel. If you have ANY grey clips attached to the back of your bezel, in order to replace the bezel you need to first remove the clips from the bezel and reinsert them into the holes in the display panel manually first! Once all of these clips are back in place, the bezel can be reattached.

    These clips are very fragile and if you are having this problem odds are you have already severely bent some of them. Check the tiny plastic clasps and if they are squashed down, gently pry them back up with your fingernail. Again these grey clips are very fragile, so use care in reattaching them.

    MC25 - Replica

    • Sometimes when removing the front display bezel, the retaining clips that should remain captive in the LCD brackets come out with the front display bezel. Follow this and the next step to transfer the clips back to the LCD bracket.

    • Use a metal spudger or another thin tool to carefully pry the gray plastic clips off the tabs molded into the front display bezel. A 0.8mm flat screwdriver may be useful for this step.

    • Be careful, as the clips are made of thin plastic and are inherently delicate.

    I found that an easy way to remove the clips from the bezel is to use a plastic knife (knife as in the utensil). Sliding the knife under one of the clip's long sides and prying upwards worked well for me. Thanks MC25 and WillyDavidK for the tips, they worked great!

    Iron Kettle - Replica

    The plastic clips deform easily, making it difficult to reuse them. The tabs on the back of the bezel that fit into the clips also break off easily.

    If any of the tabs or clips are omitted, the bezel will not lie flush nor will it hold the cables that run beneath it in place.

    Wear gloves while wrangling with the white bezel—like the white topcase, the matte-finish plastic is very porous and quickly gets grubby.

    CG Hughes - Replica

    • Insert the longer end of the retaining clip beneath the edge of its recess cut into the LCD bracket.

    • Use the edge of a metal spudger to push the shorter tab on the other side of the retaining clip into the recess cut into the LCD bracket.

    • The second picture shows the LCD bracket properly installed.

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    • Remove the three 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the clutch cover.

    In this picture you can see that it is a Nikon camera that was used for this guide. :)

    GotMac - Replica

    • While holding the display down with one hand, use your other hand to lift the clutch cover off the clutch hinges.

    • It may help to wiggle the clutch cover as you pull it up from the display.

    There are little clips at each end of the clutch cover, and I found it helpful first to lift the clutch cover off the metal rod first, and after that squeeze the cables at each end between the clips, so you can lift the cover off.

    Iron Kettle - Replica

    • Lift up the right side of the clutch cover and guide the display data and iSight cables through the gap in the clutch cover.

    • Lift the clutch cover out of the display assembly.

    • During reassembly, make sure not to pinch the backlight cable (with the white connector) when snapping the clutch cover back into place. This cable has two visible wires leading into the lower right section of the LCD display to the backlight. (The models with pink and white wires are usually longer and easier to pinch.)

    Pay attention here. I missed the part about pinching the cable and that's exactly what I did. It helps to pull the video and mic cables tight to fit the clutch cover on. I also had to make sure the pink/white cables were up and out of the way. When I did it correctly, it slid in pretty easily. It would help to really look at how things are arranged when you are taking it apart, too. There's some tabs that interconnect with the plastic sliding things you removed in steps 46-47.

    maccentric - Replica

    • Lift the inverter slightly out of the display.

    • Disconnect the inverter cable from the left side of the inverter board.

    • Set the inverter board back down into its recess molded into the rear display bezel.

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    • Gently peel back the strip of tape covering the inverter cable.

    • Remove the single 3.2 mm Phillips screw securing the inverter cable to the left clutch hinge.

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    • Remove the inverter cable from the display.

    • Before ordering a new inverter cable, be sure you are buying one with the correct connector for your machine. The Santa Rosa/Penryn inverter cable has a much slimmer three-wall connector on the side that connects to the logic board.

    Aggiungi Commento


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 244 persone hanno completato questa guida.

My cable ended up just being loose and was not even broken so that might be the case for you as well if the cable does not look like it is broken. also follow the guide carefully and keep track of all the screws it was very time consuming but totally worth it!

Jenn - Replica

This guide worked perfectly. Fixed my inverter cable and my display is good again!!!

Dave - Replica

Fixed my inverter cable and my display is good again, this guide is great, I love it !

One minor tip, I find doing step 46 before step 45 would be better.



hieule88 - Replica

i did it! Was quite scary opening and putting those parts together. But screen good as new now! :D :D :D

thecatrecord - Replica

This fix took me 5 hours to do from start to finish. Most difficult part was removing the keyboard assm on the front left corner. It gets caught under the metal support brace inside the case where the two outside screws are. Very tedious job but worth it because it fixed the backlight problem on my Penyrn Macbook.

johnspaus - Replica

Thanx very much for this very usefull guide! I replaced the inverter cable of my macbook and now the screen stays on as it should be! Very nice to have such a close look at the inside of the macbook

Wen Versteeg - Replica

This Guide worked and was expertly written!!! Thanks for the help my macbook screen now works again!!!!

mrphiliprichard - Replica

Worked excellent! Thnx ifixit and dozuki for clear guiding!

Be carefull when putting back the keyboard (step 11: slide 4 grey bits into slots) and check before closing if connector to logic board is still in!

kris mergan - Replica

This guide is very clear and nicely covers potential mishaps. HOWEVER, after I reassembled my macbook there was

no response to pushing the power button!

Any suggestions?

tballou - Replica

HAPPY! took off the keyboard and, whoa, the keyboard/trackpad connector was loose: stuck it on and it powered up just fine, with perfect backlight behavior!

tballou - Replica

Awesome! Thanks iFixit! Worked perfectly. Only cost me a few bucks!

Kenneth Farrell - Replica

I followed the guide step by step and had some pieces of paper with step-numbers on it to arrange the screws. Messing around with my Mac always makes me nervous but this guide pulled me through.

My MacBook went black whenever I moved the lid up or down slightly. Considering the rather poor viewing angle of the display, that happened quite often. I just took it apart; pressed everything firmly while reassembling the machine and now I can move the lid without the screen going black. Excellent !

Thanks a million for the walkthrough !

Jos - Replica

This guide worked really well for me, apart from the expected slight glitches which are par for the course (see my comments on Step 20). A useful tip is to use an ice cube tray for the screws/parts - as you take them out, put them in a cube well and mark it with the corresponding Step number. Makes it easy as you go in reverse order to reassemble.

muir mackean - Replica

Very helpful guide. It took me a long time to fix those grey bezel clips. I was a bit nervous through the process, but at the end it worked! My screen doesn't blackout anymore after replacing the inverter cable.

Zoe - Replica

Although a lot of steps, and painfully gruesome ... I was able to replace the Inverter Cable, since the one inside was giving me a lot of flickering when the backlight went off.


Computer User - Replica

Ce guide est vraiment digne de confiance. Fini l'écran noir quand on le déplie.

Attention à bien repérer les vis. Le plastique devient cassant en vieillissant, mais rien grave.

La réparation m'a pris 4 heures.

Grand MERCI.

Kretlow - Replica

Cheers every one

Andrew Bookholt thx for the tutorial its really great. I've managed to follow your guide and now I have access to the inverter cable. I think the problem is on the inverter cable not on the inverter itself. Every time I unplug and then plug the inverter cable from and to the inverter the screen flashes and then goes off again. Does this mean the problem is on the cable? I think I'm pretty close to fix my mac but I would like to be sure which part toCan someone help me out please? Thx in advance to ll of you

4QUARIUM - Replica

Great guide!!! My inverter cable is repaired!!!

davidfunesmartin - Replica

For about 3 years I had been dealing with my screen backlight shuting off. I would then dim the screen up and down until I could get it to stay. Sometimes it would work the first time other times I would be doing it for 10 minutes and other times I would give up for a few hours and come back and the screen would be on again. It would also do this sometimes when I opened the laptop at a certain angle or bumped the computer.

Well after these years very annoying behavior, my screen wont turn back on. I can see my desktop when I shine a light on the screen and hear the fan running so I know the computer works fine.

I've tried unpluging the inverter board to see if it was a loose connection, but that didn't work. I tried wiggling it around until the screen turned on and nothing.... Please help!

Is this a problem with my inverter or the inverter cable? Or the backlight cable?

What parts should I buy?

4321ora - Replica

it's amazing!!!!!it was the most long 4hours of our life...but totally, totally worth it!!!

thank you,thank you, thank you!!!....the guide is perfect!!

adina0017 - Replica

Yep, did it myself, saved money, got to sit back and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.

Thanks Andy, BIG help my friend!!!

rickywayne - Replica

Worked great; display is no longer intermittent. Penryn model, all screws were #0. Took a few photos to help on reassembly, and made a couple of missteps: plugged in optical cable before hard drive cable, and had to backtrack one step; and put the 3 battery compartment screws in the wrong holes; had to take them out and put them in the right holes so the shield screws had empty holes. Took me 6 or 8 hours over three days. Thanks!

rob3p14159 - Replica

Wow, this actually worked! I paid c.£200 for a similar repair a few years ago and wasn't willing to spend the same again on my ancient macbook, so figured I'd give this a try.

Opening up the inside was pretty scary and I fully expected to do more damage than good. In fact, my first attempt produced a blue screen with a question mark icon, so I repeated steps 1-18 to check for a loose connection/trapped cable and, much to my amazement, that fixed the problem! Saved me a fortune!

For those in the UK, the "iFixit iOpener Kit to open Apple glued devices" from Amazon contains all the kit you need apart from the inverter cable/compressed air.

Suz - Replica

Great guide, well written. Sadly in this case a new cable didn't fix the backlight problem, must be screen, inverter board or something else.

Keith Patterson - Replica

Right, now show me the way back ;) just kidding,

thanks to this really great tutorial I've just fixed my daughter's beloved whitebook

hope I can assemble it back, now ;)

for those, who didn't find the solution in cable or inverter replacement:

the very common problem here is a zero ohm resistor, which serves as fuse here

this tiny beast just loves to be burnt, and residues nearby the inverter connector slot

you may find pictures here:

Voltages of pins on logic board where inverter cable hooks up..

and appropriate video here:


long live, white apples!

erbarium - Replica

Guide worked great. Thought it was odd that the inverter cable had to be twisted in order to fit it and screw it into the display. The cable I replaced was also twisted which makes me wonder if that was not the problem.

Daniel Walvatne - Replica

You went through everything but FAILED to show how to take out the Inverter cable from the mother board. Do we pull up or down or just out.

Joe macrehnza - Replica

Performed the entire thing without issue, I thought. My macbook will not boot up. I do get the Apple logo, followed by a spinning icon, then a blue screen, then it shuts off. Any ideas of what to check? I reopened it and checked all the connectors to be sure they were snug.

Joshua Greene - Replica

Went to turn the computer on but nothing happens. So I disassembled again to see if I missed something. This time, before I reassembled eveything, I basically connected all the cables, inserted the hard drive, connected the keyboard and attached the powercord. Turned the power in and it worked. But the keyboard didn't work other than the power button. So I connected a usb mouse. I have no Bluetooth connection. Went ahead and powered off and finished putting it back together again. But the power button and nothing . What happened???

Brad - Replica

would this work on a 2016 mac?

giovanycuahuizo1 - Replica

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