Difficoltà
Moderato
Passi
13
Tempo Necessario
20 - 30 minuti
Guida In Evidenza
Questa guida è stata giudicata eccezionalmente ben fatta dallo staff iFixit.
Introduzione
Questa guida illustra come sostituire o aggiornare il disco rigido.
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Far aderire una ventosa accanto a ciascuno dei due angoli superiori del pannello di vetro.
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Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia (come evidenziato nella terza immagine).
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Sollevare il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro.
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Estrarre il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e riporlo da parte con attenzione.
you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...
do you still have this panel?
Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.
Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.
I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.
I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.
Daniel -
The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!
dtsai2 -
I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!
You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.
Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!
I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?
Hi Amy,
To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.
Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.
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Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T10 che fissano l'LCD al case esterno.
All screws were exactly the same for me.
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Poggiare delicatamente l'iMac dal lato della staffa su una superficie piatta.
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Mediante un attrezzo sottile e ricurvo, sollevare un lato del bordo superiore del display dal telaio esterno in acciaio.
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Sollevare e trattenere il display affinché sia possibile accedere ai cavi.
I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.
This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!
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Scollegare il cavo della sincronizzazione verticale nell'angolo superiore sinistro dello schermo. Mediante la punta di un inseritore, premere le linguette laterali del connettore.
After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.
Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.
thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers
Eric -
Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.
I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?
It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?
Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.
with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.
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Scollega il cavo di azionamento della retroilluminazione LED con le mani, premendo la linguetta e facendola scorrere verso la parte inferiore del display.
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Scollega il cavo della retroilluminazione LED con la mano premendo la linguetta verso il basso e facendola scorrere verso la parte inferiore del display.
Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.
Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.
Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...
I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!
Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(
Thanx a bunch!
Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.
dtsai2 -
I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?
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Estrarre la linguetta nera per scollegare la chiusura nel connettore ZIF del cavo dati del display.
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Scollegare il cavo dati del display tirando il connettore verso la parte inferiore del display con la linguetta nera
me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.
I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.
This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.
Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.
asthomas -
How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.
This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.
Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.
I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.
The is a great tip
I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.
What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!
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Estrarre con cautela il cavo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac e sollevarlo dal case dell'iMac.
When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!
do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!
find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD
FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...
1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.
2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).
Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...
adrianh -
There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.
ESD = Electrostatic Discharge
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Scollegare i cavi di alimentazione e dati SATA dal disco rigido, estraendoli direttamente dal disco rigido stesso.
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Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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42 Commenti
Note that if you are replacing the hard drive with a non-Apple hard drive, then you will have problems with the fan running full speed constantly (see http://blog.macsales.com/10206-further-e...). Basically, you'll need to either install a $30 piece of software to control the fans or short out some wires.
You don´t need to short out the wires, just install the free SSD FAN CONTROL app from EXIRION.NET und you´ll be fine :D
remember after the glass, to get the aluminum front off, remove the bay for the memory upgrade on the bottom first before you remove the torx screws ans lift to access the bottom case (Between step 2 and 3)
I'm looking to replace my 3.5" HDD in my iMac (mid-2011) with a 2.5" SSD. Will I need an adapter for this?
Absolutly. You can buy a official one on the Apple Store. I reccommend the dual-drive (HDD & SDD) tho.
I used the newertechnology 2,5–3,5-Adapter for 16 bucks from amazon and it fits 100 %!
There are kits that have a thermal circuit and plug between the hard drive and cables to the 3.5" drive to allow other non-apple drives to be installed and still have the fans and diagnostics function normally. No need to short or modify fan speed with software that won't adjust for temperature properly. You just attach the thermal sensor to the drive and plug it in. Usually range from $50-$80 just for the cable, I'm really shocked I can't find them available from ifixit! Just ordered one from the US source.
I successfully replaced my old 2TB HITACHI 3.5" drive (had only 50% health after 2 years left - monitored with "DriveDX") with a SEAGATE SSHD 2TB (+8GB SSD) 3.5" drive and everything works smoothly, INCLUDING TEMPERATURE AND FAN CONTROL (temperature can be read and "Macs fan control" adjusts the fan just right). I cloned my drive with "CarbinCopyCloner" before replacement and I just needed to press ALT when booting, selecting "Recovery" and point to the newly installed drive under "Restart from" (Do this if you see the folder icon with question mark)
Eric where did you get this drive?
It looks like "SSD Fan Control" http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ might be an alternative to using the "OWC In-line Digital Thermal Sensor for iMac 2011 Hard Drive Upgrade"
Maybe I should send some bucks to "exirion" for providing the software without charge - there is a donation button.
I have replaced a few hard drives lately. But on this occasion I replaced the drive with an SSD one and the computer powers on but the screen remains blank. I have checked all the cables are attached. Tried putting the original drive back in. Still blank. any ideas anyone?
quick and easy, took me about 20 minutes to swap it out. no problems with fan speed or anything else.
FAN SPEED PROBLEM -> FIXED FOR FREE
When replacing HD with same (newer model) type and brand the fan-full-speed problem still occurred. Reason: All HD's not sold by Aplle Store don't have required special apple firmware to handle the Apple built-in fan controls. Fix: FREE program: http://www.crystalidea.com/products?ref=... Don't spend money.
OVERHEAT PROBLEM / CLICKING HD
My medio 2001 iMac heats more then box windows pc: large screen that generates heat very close to components. When you hear the HD "click click", it's safe to say your HD is running too hot. Play with settings in Mac Fan Control prog to find the "no click"-setting. Check manual HD.
SLOW MAC = HOT MAC = BURNING HARD DRIVE TOO MUCH
Macrunning slow? check available RAM in Activity Monitor. If it's less then 1 gig, by some more. Dead cheap at +- 50$ / 4 gig.
EU USERS OF IFIXIT
1) Google for iFixIt Europe to find a German based webstore.
2) Buy kit + the screwset, the screws are USA type.
It's dead easy, took me 30 min.
Good luck!
I did this upgrade - Samsung 850 EVO SSD - Adaptadrive & Sensor. The computer won't start now - won't even try to start. I think that the connection at the very top left of the screen to the back might not be correct - it might be broken. How do I deal with that? I went to an authorized Apple store and they said they won't look at it because I messed with it on my own.
All I had to do was disconnect the vertical sync cable. I supported the LCD with 2 Bic pens and had great access to the hard drive. There was no fan control on the HD. Everything went back together and it works perfectly. It took less than 15 minutes from start of repair to reboot.
Same for me, no fan control cable, and I even bought the part and had it ready! And I agree, removing the whole panel is overkill, once you get that thin top cable detached it will lift out pretty far and gives plenty of access.
The Bic tip is a great move… many thanks. My third time inside mine now as I try to resolve a random restart issue - fitted OWC sensor on 2nd time in but now I’m putting the old drive back to see if it still occurs.
Going to be under there again - so much easier with the Bics
Took an hour because I was taking my time and blew out all the nasty dust that permeated the entire inside of the nearly 4 year old iMac. Used an AdaptaDrive with an OWC thermal sensor, and a Samsung 850 EVO 1TB. Unscrewed the pins on the drive and the bracket on top and attached that hardware to the AdaptaDrive frame. Cloned the drive ahead of time and when powered up, the thing screamed to the desktop. Fans are both sitting at ~1150 RPM. So, success!
Added new SSD in place of HDD. I used the method without removing screen, just removing first wire and supporting it on whiteboard markers. I had to drill an extra hole in the upper bracket because it's screw holes were too far away. I used regular 5.5mm drill head, and you can swap the rubber hole inserts to the new hole. It allowed me to easily add the SSD with simple ADATA bracket I got for free with my Samsung EVO. I know you can get 'the right one', but I did with what I had.
Thanks, this guide was PERFECT. I just installed an Intel 730 SSD and now my iMac is SCREAMING FAST. Nice tip on using the Dry Erase Markers to hold open the display so that you only have to disconnect the vertical sync cable. I used a short Torx to undo the HD. I used OWC AdaptaDrive to install the SSD. Love this website. What a great resource for the DIY crowd!
Giving birth to a flaming porcupine would be easier. Why make it so difficult? At least the memory swap is pretty simple.
I tried to install an SSD using this and several other instructions available online. All of the others did it successful and I did not. The installation on the physical drive was easy. Getting my iMac to recover is not. It doesn't respond to the recovery boot. I tried using a bootable usb drive and a fresh install of the OSX, but that froze at "one second remaining". I'm now attempting a restore from time machine, which surprisingly did start, but is so slow that it will take over 9 hours to restore (it's still increasing as I post this). Can anyone give advice?
Managed to succeed. Here was my situation:
My SSD was brand new and not initialised. Internet recovery wasn't possible as the iMac couldn't boot in recovery mode. I suspect this may be due to that bootable part being absent from the new SSD. Newer models may have a bootable partition in ROM, but my late 2009 iMac didn't.
I made a bootable USB drive on my MacBook Air. That allowed me to boot from the USB in recovery mode.
There I formatted the SSD.
I tried a fresh install of El Capitan, but as explained above, that failed.
I then tried booting from my time machine, which surprisingly worked. It only allows you to do a restore, so I selected the latest backup entry point (a few hours before I made the upgrade.
Restoring took about 9.5 hours, but this morning it had finished as the screensaver was on.
I logged on and it finished setting up my Mac.
The rest of the startup was a bit slower than expected, but I think it was faster than with the original drive.
GREAT! Replaced my HDD of a MID 2011 iMac 27" with a Crucial SSD 1 TB in 15 minutes (two people).
Performance is 100 to 1, this is really like buying a new iMac, but at 10 % of the cost.
Prior to replacing the HD I made a TimeMachine backup of my iMac and created a USB-Boot device for OS X Sierra.
After installing the SSD drive, boot up from the USB device and make a fresh install of Sierra. After this, connect your TimeMachine backup device (i used a 1 TB external USB HD) and use the Migration-Assistant from the Utilities Programs to restore the User/Apps/Data files from the Time-Machine Backup. The restore took about 5 hours (600 MB) because of USB 2.0 - so be patient.
This way you will end up with a FRESH IOS INSTALL and all your mail/settings/data/apps/fotos... from your TimeMachine Backup.
I absolutely recommend this upgrade because of the exceptional performance gains when using fotos, garage band, motion, final cut pro x, imovie - BIG SMILE!!!
...just do it!...
To get rid of the "HDD FAN PROBLEM" I installed HDD FAN CONTROLL app from EXIRION.NET. It´s free and does the job quite well!
Thanks for the instructions! :-)
I successfully swapped my iMac's original 1 TB Seagate HDD with a 2 TB Seagate SSHD and everything went smoothly. Prior to swapping the drives, I cloned my original drive to the new drive using Carbon Copy Cloner (https://bombich.com/). After I installed the new drive, my iMac booted up with no issues. I noticed my fan was running continuously so I installed the SSD FAN CONTROL app from EXIRION.NET. I ran this app and set the Hard Disk fan to SMART mode and the fan slowed down to a quiet speed.
Replaced broken stock drive with 2TB Western Digital Gold and OWC In-Line Digital Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable for iMac 2011 (model # OWCDIDIMACHDD11) using this procedure. You definitely do not need to remove the whole screen. Just lift the top edge, remove a single cable (the vertical sync cable) and then prop the screen up on both corners - the idea of using two BIC pens worked for me. All worked fine, no fan speed issues.
Hi, I've three questions:
One, if one is putting in an SSD is replacing the EMI foam necessary? One, it won't touch the chassis with an SSD mounted, and, I wonder if it's only needed for spinning drives?
Two, when replacing drive and using the OWC/MacSales thermal connector cable. getting that cable tucked in inside the inner frame, it's difficult to do without dislodging the wireless antenna connection leads. Is there a trick to doing this without knocking one of these sensitive lead connectors off?
Three, the display data (ZIF) cable seems somewhat imprecise to reconnecting it. It's not a positive click or lock into place. I'm sure the metal clip that retains it needs to be pushed back down, but it's reseating seems so tenuous that I usually boot the computer up before screwing down the display, just to make sure it works. Is there any sure fire way of making sure this cable is reconnected right when putting it back together? The other cables all seat nicely and you know they are either connected or not
Fantastic guide. I use “Macs fan control”. It’s all running well!!
Hello folks, my old SSD go down and I replace it with a new one (WD WD10EZEX Blu Hard Disk Desktop 1 TB, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 GB/s, 64 MB Cache, 3.5").
Now I’m trying to install the new OS with a USB pen with Install Disk Creator, I restart the Imac, hold down the Alt button and appear a message like “there is no space to install..”
What is wrong? I'm afraid it is not recognized the new SSD…
There are someone can help me?
Solved! I restarted my iMac again, without USB pen drive. It works!
Hi Folks, This was indeed an easy install. The instructions are great.
Unfortunately, after installing a fresh copy of High Sierra on my 2011 iMac, none of my “mice” will allow me to click anything.
Any ideas why?
Art
Here’s some “low hanging fruit” to get out of the way before considering the more mysterious possible causes. Do you have any Bluetooth input devices like a mouse, trackpads or keyboard in the vicinity of the computer? If such items are powered on, they can interfere with even wired mouse clicks. Remove their batteries and wait a few seconds and then see if your mouse works.
I just added 1k resistor across the temperature cable connector didn't even needed to cut any cable. just used electrician type not to short out the circuit and good to go. will cost you nothing to do this way. and I have very quite iMac now..
I just finished replacing original 1GB drive with a new 4GB one, same make, same series. By following advice given here about OWC product OWCDIDIMACHDD11 I got one despite it being ridiculously expensive. Absolutely no luck even if I followed OWC’s instructional video carefully while installing the kit. Fan blows at max regardless. Now I managed to get it sorted with Mac Fan Control app but must say that OWC’s kit is a hoax.
I’m really sorry to hear that! Maybe the temperature module is defective. If you bought the kit from iFixit, contact our customer support and we’ll get something worked out for you.
Followed these instructions to install a new SSD drive and it went perfectly. My only suggestion for improvement might be that steps 6-8 aren’t necessary. After removing the vertical synch cable, I was able to raise the display enough to remove the hard drive (and re-install the new SSD drive) without having to remove the cables as described in steps 6-8. My take on it is that the fewer cables I have to unplug and plug back in the smaller the opportunity for damaging something. I have not had any issues with the fan either. I dropped in a couple of 8GB sticks of memory to replace the 2GB ones that came from Apple. The new SSD drive and the memory upgrade makes for a much faster machine. Thanks for the instructions!
Service note: As you can replace the hard drive without disconnecting the 4 cables. Be VERY CAREFUL to put a display screw back in one place to avoid having the display to accidentally fall forward and “rip” the cables out of their connectors. This is a quick way to replace the hard drive. Also note that while other drives usually have a temperature sensor connector/cable, the original Apple 1TB does not. It only had the 2 SATA power and data cables.
Just after buying the iMac I got it to a local Apple Dealer and replaced the default 1TB HDD with a 256GB Samsung SSD + 2TB Seagate Combo. Now the Seagate died (after 6 years, I assume this is ok). So I replaced the Combo with a current Samsung 860 500GB SSD and a WD Blue 2TB HDD. No Issues so far!
Thanks a lot for the Guide!
Some note, I do not have the suction Caps so I was able to grab the Front Glass by applying my fingernails between Glas and Aluminium Body. That worked reasonably well too.
You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.
Nick Caron - Replica
Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.
jtowner - Replica
Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!
Eddie - Replica
Thanks!!! Worked excellently.
I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.
Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.
I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.
Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!
Frank303 - Replica
I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...
Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?
Allen Borza -
My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order
Awolf - Replica
Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.
Stuart Bloomfield - Replica
I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.
I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.
gordonhamachi - Replica