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Introduzione

Rimozione dello schermo LCD per accedere alla maggior parte dei componenti interni dell'iMac.

  1. Prima di iniziare, scollegare l'iMac dall'alimentazione e poggiarlo su una superficie morbida come indicato. Far aderire una ventosa accanto a ciascuno dei due angoli superiori del pannello di vetro.
    • Prima di iniziare, scollegare l'iMac dall'alimentazione e poggiarlo su una superficie morbida come indicato.

    • Far aderire una ventosa accanto a ciascuno dei due angoli superiori del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Replica

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Replica

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Replica

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Replica

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Replica

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Replica

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Replica

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Replica

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai - Replica

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers - Replica

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio - Replica

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell - Replica

  2. Sollevare il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro. Estrarre il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e riporlo da parte con attenzione.
    • Sollevare il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile sgombrare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro.

    • Estrarre il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e riporlo da parte con attenzione.

    • Durante la reinstallazione, pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e la superficie dello schermo LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'utilizzo della macchina.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Replica

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

  3. Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T10 da 8 mm che fissano il display al case esterno. Le due ultime immagini mostrano in dettaglio ciascun lato del display. Le due ultime immagini mostrano in dettaglio ciascun lato del display.
    • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T10 da 8 mm che fissano il display al case esterno.

    • Le due ultime immagini mostrano in dettaglio ciascun lato del display.

    The metal near the screws is VERY magnetic. Honestly, the hardest and by far most frustrating step was trying to put these screws back in.

    seancourtney - Replica

    I ran into the same problem - easily the most frustrating part of this process. To help deal with it, I took a drinking straw, cut it to be about 2 inches long, and used it as a chute to guide the screw to the hole. Dropping the screw down the straw, it'd still stick to the side due to the magnets, but using my screwdriver, it was easy to push the screw down to where it needed to go, and the straw kept the screw from being pulled out of place by the magnets.

    josh -

    +1 for the straw tip. Worked a treat!

    osienna - Replica

    Hmm… yes, the magnets sucks - literally. But if you use a normal screwdriver or a bit, the screwdriver tip or the bit can be “loaded” by the magnets too. Just move the screwdriver (or bit) over one of the magnets and then “plug” the screw onto the screwdriver’s tip (or bit). It will be held by magnetic force. Just enough to move the screw vertically and very slowly into the whole.

    There are some special screwdriver on the market with “claws” to hold screws, but they are hard to find/to buy and expensive. I sometimes use superglue (a LITTLE) to temporary fasten the screw at the screwdrivers tip. This technique can be used with destroyed screw heads too to optimize adhesion.

    Udo - Replica

    Les vis sont inévitablement aimantées

    Gui - Replica

    Replacing these screws was like playing the most difficult game of “Operation” imaginable. I wish I’d seen the tip about using a straw before I started playing!

    Bret Mogilefsky - Replica

  4. The Essential Toolkit

    The most helpful tools in our most compact kit.

    Acquista ora

    The Essential Toolkit

    The most helpful tools in our most compact kit.

    Acquista ora
  5. Sollevare leggermente il bordo superiore del display dal case esterno.
    • Sollevare leggermente il bordo superiore del display dal case esterno.

    • Non sollevare eccessivamente. Sono presenti numerosi cavi che collegano il display alla scheda logica.

    You can use one hand to hold the edge up while reaching with the other hand to disconnect cables. You may want to have a prop handy (like a small book) or an extra person to hold the edge up while you disconnect cables.

    kctipton - Replica

    Use the teardown guide for your iMac to familiarise yourself with the layout of everything before you dive in. I was able to get an idea of how much clearance there was once the display is unfixed from the frame, where the optical drive was relative to the base etc

    osienna - Replica

    The harddisk can be removed WITHOUT the next steps. The opening angle of the partially lifted LCD display gives enough room to untighten the two Torx T9 screws of the hard disk bracket, to unplug the two SATA connectors and to carefully lift out the harddisk. There is absolutely no need to dismantle the whole thing.

    All you need is a screwdriver which fits into the room. I’ve used the “Pro Tech Toolkit” from iFixit. The screwdriver with Torx T9 bit fits perfectly.

    The other “tool” you need is either someone who holds the LCD plate or the inner leftover of a kitchenroll, a scrunched paper, a small towel or similar which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to keep the LCD at its lifted place (careful! don’t unplug any of the cables).

    I’ve opened and changed the harddisks of those 21,5 iMacs a dozen times with the help of the “Pro Tech Toolkit” and a kitchen roll.

    Udo - Replica

    If i want to replace the HD with a SSD, can i still skip the next steps? I think i can’t because i need to change the termal censor, but i would like an other opinion please.

    Danois -

    “Kitchen Roll” - paper towel core.

    kyoder11 -

    Hia,

    thx to IFIXIT and 20+ years of computer repair and building experience (all PC) there was no problem at all to remove a 500 Gb HDD from a mid 2011 iMac and replace it with an 500 Gb SSD Drive (with help from Comtec EDV, where i bought the upgrade kit).

    Skip the steps where people are advised to remove the display. Due to my experience it is def better to leave cables and plugs where they are. I lifted the display 12 cm and fixed this position w/ one pencil in each front corner of the case where the other end of the pencil sticked in ascrew hole of the display-frame. Very easy to operate afterwards! No probs w/ the screws of the hdd-frame.

    Some care-taking of static electricity is advised - wear a wrist cable. And don’t forget to press start button after having removed power chord. I had an Android Tablet on the right side, where i could watch these ifixit pages :-)

    thx to IFIXIT!

    w/ regards from cantbtroo from Berlin

    Hans- Peter - Replica

    Thank you ifixit for the guide. Like so many others I jumped from step 4 to step 10 and left all the cables intact. Felt much safer doing so. Papertowel cores secured the LCD to higher position. There was enough room to remove the old HDD and replace it with a SSD drive.

    Cheers!

    Aapo Kaivosoja - Replica

    I also was able to proceed with rest of instructions, after skillping steps 4-10, just have to be very gentle, i think it would help to have a second set of hands to hold screen above while other hands are uninstalling and installing hard drive, but i was able to do it on my own

    jacob d - Replica

  6. Estrarre il connettore del cavo della sincronizzazione verticale dal connettore femmina sulla scheda di azionamento LED, vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro dell'iMac. Estrarre il connettore del cavo della sincronizzazione verticale dal connettore femmina sulla scheda di azionamento LED, vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro dell'iMac.
    • Estrarre il connettore del cavo della sincronizzazione verticale dal connettore femmina sulla scheda di azionamento LED, vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro dell'iMac.

    Tried doing this on my iMac, but this cable would not come out for love or money. No matter what I did, I could not unplug this cable. My iMac is the same 21inch 2011 as this one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    louis.barr - Replica

    use a little poker type thing in your right hand to push on the 2 holes that are on top of the plug and wiggle it out with your other hand,

    Nicholas - Replica

  7. Ruotare il display dal case esterno affinché sia possibile scollegare il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED dall'apposita scheda di azionamento. Scollegare il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED premendo il meccanismo di blocco ed estraendo al contempo il connettore dal relativo connettore femmina (verso il bordo inferiore dell'iMac).
    • Ruotare il display dal case esterno affinché sia possibile scollegare il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED dall'apposita scheda di azionamento.

    • Scollegare il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED premendo il meccanismo di blocco ed estraendo al contempo il connettore dal relativo connettore femmina (verso il bordo inferiore dell'iMac).

  8. Prendere la linguetta di plastica fissata al blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotarla verso l'alto. Estrarre il cavo dati del display direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica. Non sollevare il cavo dati del display poiché il connettore è molto fragile. Estrarre il cavo in senso parallelo alla superficie della scheda logica.
    • Prendere la linguetta di plastica fissata al blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotarla verso l'alto.

    • Estrarre il cavo dati del display direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica.

    • Non sollevare il cavo dati del display poiché il connettore è molto fragile. Estrarre il cavo in senso parallelo alla superficie della scheda logica.

    I am having a difficult time reattaching the LCD cable. A better description or any tips would be useful here.

    Ben Bauermeister - Replica

    Me too — ditto that.

    Roger Buttermore -

    https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI... —> abt. 5:30 into the vid. Handle up to slide in, then flip it down to lock the connector in place.

    Roger Buttermore -

    The connector needs to be carefully pushed in parallel to the board with a surprising amount of pressure and the pull tab must be folded back. Not super fragile, but not strong either.

    Isaac Vande Zande - Replica

    I really wish that the fagility of this connector was mentioned in Step 10 or 11.. When i rotated the screen on step 11.. It pulled this connector out and now I can't get it back in.. I hate computers.. HA!

    Philip Nelson - Replica

    This is the most painful part of the whole event. Replacing this cable took me around 30 minutes !

    K. Efe Egilmez - Replica

    I have tried and tried to get this cable back in. How do I know if I have messed it up?

    Christopher Teer - Replica

    Mine seems to be…upside down? Looks like the little flappy lock thing is on the bottom as opposed to it being in top as pictured?

    jinnifer douglass - Replica

    I agree with everybody that this is the critical step in this fix. Removing it is not that difficult, the description is quite accurate, but I would highlight that the “rotate” part of the step could be detailed: the black plastic tab is attached to the metal lock (golden colored) , which should rotate into the direction of the cable almost 180 degrees to unlock the connector. After doing this you can pull the cable out of the connector, PARALLEL to the board and away from the connector. It travels a very short distance to disconnect. After going through the rest of the steps to remove the display, take some time to examine closely the connector and understand what you have to do to reconnect it on assembly. It helps to fully visualize beforehand, since on reassembly it is difficult to see properly.

    Fernando Walker - Replica

  9. Scollegare il connettore del cavo del sensore termico dell'LCD dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica. Scollegare il connettore del cavo del sensore termico dell'LCD dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.
    • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del sensore termico dell'LCD dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

    When putting the display down on the table, be careful not to kink the flat ribbon cable.

    frank - Replica

    The replacement hard drive I used doesn't even appear to spin up and the Time Capsule restore process doesn't show it as available. It just stays at Searching for disks and never finds it.

    JRBv3 - Replica

    I had to use Disk Utility to partition the drive and then it showed fine. Rookie mistake.

    JRBv3 -

    I managed to damage the LCD thermal sensor socket in the logic board. Now the connector won’t stay in place. I know the missing thermal sensor should cause the fans to spin up (they do spin up after a while), but the screen is blank.

    I connected an external monitor and it works fine, so it doesn’t seem to be a graphics or logic board issue. I also replaced the LED driver board with one from a working iMac, to no effect.

    Can the missing thermal sensor be causing this?

    Rodrigo da Rosa Cesconeto - Replica

    Having the same problem. Black screen, works fine with external display.

    Passerby -

  10. Estrarre con cautela il cavo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac e sollevarlo dal case esterno, facendo attenzione a non tirare altri cavi.
    • Estrarre con cautela il cavo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac e sollevarlo dal case esterno, facendo attenzione a non tirare altri cavi.

    Btw, I was pretty safe (& content) with two suction cups - i bought 3 for less than 7 Euros. They were a good help for a glass that hasn’t been removed since 2011. But i am sure fingernails will do a good job, too (of course not mine, cos i have short ones).

    At the end of the job it was even possoible to clean the fan that sucks cool air into the iMac (w/ a paintbrush and a controllable vaccuum cleaner). After that, it’s also a good opportunity to clean the air inlet that is part of the aluminium case (behind the stand - it’s always dusty).

    w/ regards from cantbtroo, Berlin

    Hans- Peter - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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My screen does not come on but the dvd player powers up and the orchestral noise in the beginning sounds what do you think the problem is?

Dave Seawater - Replica

I can't seem to get that flat gold color wire to go back into the socket....please help. I'm at mikichan1@yahoo.com

mikichan1 - Replica

I had the same problem. Frustrating.

garyledet - Replica

I actually messed up my lcd cable end, so make sure its aligned properly before you try to insert it. If not you will be waiting 3 days like me for the replacement cabe to arrive.

Tony J - Replica

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