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The power PCB is attached to the inside of the back panel and provides access to the power inputs from the exterior of the speaker. This PCB transforms the incoming power to appropriate level for use by the other PCB's in the B212D speaker.


Nessuna parte richiesta.

  1. Unplug your speaker from the power outlet.
    • Unplug your speaker from the power outlet.

    • Remove the 8 Phillips screws from the back of the speaker.

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  2. Carefully remove the back panel, lifting out the metal electronics-box with it.
    • Carefully remove the back panel, lifting out the metal electronics-box with it.

    • To avoid damaging your speaker, remove slowly, as there is still a wire attached from the electronics box to the speaker.

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    • There are two silver, 6 mm-long machine screws with two 1/8" inner-diameter washers on the exterior of the metal electronics box; remove these first using a #2 philips screwdriver.

    • There are five of the same type of machine screw (silver, 6 mm-long) remaining around the metal electronics box's exterior; remove these as well.

    • You should have removed a total of 7 machine screws and 2 washers.

    • The reason for removing the two screws with the two washers first (or replacing them last when reassembling) is that their holes are actually slots. They are designed as slots to accommodate slop in the assembly, and if unscrewed out of order, you may have difficulty while removing - or possibly even damage - the other five screws.

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  3. Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    Diffondi allegria Fixmas
    Ottieni $12 sul tuo acquisto di $50 o più con il codice FIXMAS12
    • Remove the portion of the metal housing that you freed with the 7 screws in the previous step.

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    • Inside the metal electronics box housing is a white clip attached to a small PCB; remove this.

    • The white clip in this image has been glued, indicating that the manufacturer may not expect the end user to remove this clip; it is difficult to proceed with the disassembling without doing so, however, because the rest of the speaker does not provide a sufficient surface on which to work.

    • Snake the clip head through the hole in the metal electronics box casing.

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    • Remove the 4, 7/32" long machine screws with a #2 phillips head screwdriver.

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    • Rotate the back panel so you can view the interior; note the three wires attached.

    • Remove the wires to you can fully remove the back panel.

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    • Remove the 4 indicated 7/32" long machine screws with a #1 phillips head screwdriver.

    • Remove the box containing the power PCB.

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    • There are 4 remaining 7/32" long machine screws holding the power PCB to the box which contains it; remove these with a #1 phillips head screwdriver.

    • Remove the power PCB.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.


Membro da: 29/03/2012

861 Reputazione

6 Guide realizzate

This PCB does not convert electricity, and is rarely what fails. AC leaves this board and gets converted to DC at the rectifier bridge, which is part of the main amp PCB. This main amp board is where 99.9% of issues arise...

Gabriel Talamantes - Replica

Do you know where I can find replacement boards for this speaker? It takes about 20 times of cycling the power button for it to finally come on. Can't seem to find parts anywhere. May not be financially smart to replace the board, but if it's not that expensive, I feel it's worth it.

Justin -

Hi. Why dont you fix the board?

riaandd - Replica

Has anyone got a circuit diagram for the power board. Is it a switch mode power supply - the power plug indicates 240V or 110 V AC which would normally indicate it uses a switch mode power supply at the front end

Jonathon - Replica

my fuse holder the plastic broke because there is not enough pressure to hold in the fuse and turns on and off

Jeffrey Martinez - Replica

Test esr of all small electrolytic caps eg. 100uf in primary side of ps. In area or 16 and 8 pin dips. Have had this problem cured with caps replaced , often several, small ones in this supply. Especially units that have ran a long time and have heat stressed those elcos. Presently having a problem that is not caps but i suspect theViper22a ic as there is no standby voltage at all and this chip can be “sneaky", sometimes working and sometimes just not firing up.hope you have access to an esr tester as these little caps don't always bloat to show their failure.

Pesh Madscientist - Replica

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