The HP 11 Chromebook has a special battery with three cells and a protection circuit that will shut down when the cells drop below 2.5 V each or less than 7.5 VDC on the entire battery. I know because I am typing this answer on my HP 11 Chromebook, which had the same symptoms. I had to open the Chromebook to check the battery, and I did test each cell. I did a local cell charge on each and brought the up to 4 VDC for a total of 12 VDC but the protection circuit has a special chip (BQ30Z554-R1) that shuts down the battery. I searched for the specific chip and it has logic to do that, and there is no way to reset it, so my only solution was to buy a new battery . You can find the on eBay and it will cost less than a new Chromebook. If I managed to replace my battery, so can you.
In the HP Chrome book that I have, the microUSB port was partially loose. The port has two parts, one is the steel frame that is soldered to the motherboard at four points around the edges , and the second is the plastic insert that holds the five USB contacts that are soldered at the rear of the port to the motherboard. In my case, the insert broke off all five contacts and was actually sliding inside the frame. My solution was to push the insert into its correct position (contacts aligned with solder points on motherboard), then with a wooden toothpick moisten with Super Glue, dab at all external spots where the insert touched the frame (don’t get any inside the microUSB connector!). Finally, using a conical pointed soldering tip, resolder the five contacts and check continuity. You cab add more Super Glue after all the contacts are verified to prevent future plug insertions from moving the insert and breaking the solder points again in the future.
Did you did a full Windows system backup first to another external drive or USB flash drive, and dd you create a Windows emergency recovery disc? You need both to fully migrate your old HDD software and data to the new HDD (or SDD). Windows and Microsoft made it simple to do, so visit the Microsoft help site. Reinstall your old HDD first, get an external HDD or flash drive bigger than the total amount of data, then start Windows Backup to create the full system backup and create the emergency recovery disk on a CD (or on an external DVD recorder). When done, swap the new HDD again, reconnect the external HDD or flash drive, load the CD or DVD and boot from that. It will come up, and give you a set of boxed options. Go for the full recovery. Save the recovery disk in the case Windows will not startup again later. Recreate it after you do a new Windows update or an upgrade. You can also search for “Windows backup” or “Swap Windows HDD” and see other recommendations. There are several products (some free,...
I have this same TV model but I have no problems. Since the symptoms happen after a warm up, I suspect the power supply, because I have seen similar symptoms on a different TV brand.. One of the voltages has dropped, causing this massive failure in display, signals, and audio. The power off period allows the supply to cool off, but returns after the warm up. If you don't have the resources to check and replace the power supply, go to a professional technician.
If the "lightning bolt" appears, the Moto 360 is good. Wait a while after it begins charging, then touch the screen while it is on the charger. A light ring around the border should appear with a percentage of the charge. As the percentage increases, the ring will be growing, until it reaches 100% and shows a complete ring. If the ring or the percentage doesn't appear or never increases, then the battery isn't hlding the charge.
My 2009 Chevy Equinox gave me the traction control error, but no codes, because it is an intermittent problem. The dealer checked the vehicle and called back, reporting that the wheel speed sensor on the left rear wheel (behind the driver) was open. Replacing the sensor fixed the problem. BTW, when I went to pick up my fixed Equinox, a 2009 Pontiac Torrent arrive with the same problem.
One, in the Alexa app, remove all the Echo Dots and reconfigure the Dot as a new device.
Two, power off the Dot, then renter the Alexa app, and see which “Dot” is “Offline”. Remove the others, and power up your Dot.
Three, if all appear as “Offline”, go to “About” , verify the Serial Number for each “Dot” and identify the correct one (read the Serial Number on the base). Then remove the other two and power on the Dot.
That is a very complex disassembly. I do recommend replacing “5000 mAh” with just “5 Ah”. That is less zeroes and one less letter. When lithium ion cells has low storage, using “mAh” was valid. But after passing the 1000 mAh level which is a full amp-hour, it is silly to read so many zeros. It is as bad as stating your height in millimeters (mm), especially if you are taller than one whole meter.
I wish to recommend not removing the adhesive layer if you plan to reassemble this Echo Dot. I would suggest poking holes to reach the four screws instead. Then reassembly can reuse the same adhesive layer.
That may be the Samsung battery (actually a single cell) not connected due to the ribbon contacts not mated correctly. Open the phone and check the ribbon connector. Be sure its tip fits flat inside the slot, and the tiny cover fitted on it.
When reassembling the back cover, be extremely careful to fit the cover sideways over the three micro switches (on the right side when seen from the front). These are the power, volume up, and volume down switches. If you fit the back cover incorrectly, the switches may be blocked and not work, or worse be torn off the motherboard. I am writing this because this is what happened to me! I tore off the power switch and I had to salvage the switch from a different tablet to replace it. And that switch is extremely tiny!!
The HP Touch Pad battery has two cells in parallel attached to a protection circuit board. These protection circuits will shut down the battery if the cell voltage drops below 2.8 VDC. On one old unit I managed to reach the direct cell contacts and they were below 2 VDC. I will try to recharge each cell individually and see if the protection circuit will reactivate, allowing power to flow through the connector.
In step 1, failure to unplug the cable does not result in electric shock. The power supply voltage is too low for such shock to happen to a human, but it can cause electrical damage to the motherboard. It is always a safe procedure to work on any machine unpowered (both power supply and battery disconnected and/or removed).
In step 9, be sure to remember the direction that the original drive was pointing when removing. The new drive must point the same direction.
Nice tear down. I did notice the tiny pliers with blue handles. I believe that is from one of the Pocher 1/8 scale car kits, possibly from the Ferrari Testarossa tool kits. Obviously it is just for decoration!
The IBM ThinkPad 600 battery uses six Panasonic Li-Ion cells in a 3Sx2P setup, and has a battery controller onboard the pack (under the lump covered by the IBM label). The problem has been that controller which limits the maximum energy output, especially if the pack is too hot. It has a fuse and a thermistor in between the cells. if the controller sees low voltages , the pack will be “open” yet the cells can still be good.
I have opened a pack manufactured in 1996 and the cells were good, such that I have recharged each cell pair directly. If you still have a ThinkPad 600 and several bad packs, open them carefully with a sharp blade along the plastic clamshell, remove the bottom, turn the pack with the label facing down, get a regulated Li-Ion cell charger, attach it carefully to the ends of each pair straps (the cells are welded together), and charge each pair until they have a minimum of 3.2 VDC each (or let it charge up to 4 VDC). Then tape the clamshell together and plug the pack in.
I have several ways to solve this:
One, in the Alexa app, remove all the Echo Dots and reconfigure the Dot as a new device.
Two, power off the Dot, then renter the Alexa app, and see which “Dot” is “Offline”. Remove the others, and power up your Dot.
Three, if all appear as “Offline”, go to “About” , verify the Serial Number for each “Dot” and identify the correct one (read the Serial Number on the base). Then remove the other two and power on the Dot.
That is a very complex disassembly. I do recommend replacing “5000 mAh” with just “5 Ah”. That is less zeroes and one less letter. When lithium ion cells has low storage, using “mAh” was valid. But after passing the 1000 mAh level which is a full amp-hour, it is silly to read so many zeros. It is as bad as stating your height in millimeters (mm), especially if you are taller than one whole meter.
Very complex disassembly. I do recommend replacing “5000 mAh” with “5 Ah”. That is less zeros and one less character.
I wish to recommend not removing the adhesive layer if you plan to reassemble this Echo Dot. I would suggest poking holes to reach the four screws instead. Then reassembly can reuse the same adhesive layer.
That may be the Samsung battery (actually a single cell) not connected due to the ribbon contacts not mated correctly. Open the phone and check the ribbon connector. Be sure its tip fits flat inside the slot, and the tiny cover fitted on it.
When reassembling the back cover, be extremely careful to fit the cover sideways over the three micro switches (on the right side when seen from the front). These are the power, volume up, and volume down switches. If you fit the back cover incorrectly, the switches may be blocked and not work, or worse be torn off the motherboard. I am writing this because this is what happened to me! I tore off the power switch and I had to salvage the switch from a different tablet to replace it. And that switch is extremely tiny!!
The HP Touch Pad battery has two cells in parallel attached to a protection circuit board. These protection circuits will shut down the battery if the cell voltage drops below 2.8 VDC. On one old unit I managed to reach the direct cell contacts and they were below 2 VDC. I will try to recharge each cell individually and see if the protection circuit will reactivate, allowing power to flow through the connector.
In step 1, failure to unplug the cable does not result in electric shock. The power supply voltage is too low for such shock to happen to a human, but it can cause electrical damage to the motherboard. It is always a safe procedure to work on any machine unpowered (both power supply and battery disconnected and/or removed).
In step 9, be sure to remember the direction that the original drive was pointing when removing. The new drive must point the same direction.
Nice tear down. I did notice the tiny pliers with blue handles. I believe that is from one of the Pocher 1/8 scale car kits, possibly from the Ferrari Testarossa tool kits. Obviously it is just for decoration!
The IBM ThinkPad 600 battery uses six Panasonic Li-Ion cells in a 3Sx2P setup, and has a battery controller onboard the pack (under the lump covered by the IBM label). The problem has been that controller which limits the maximum energy output, especially if the pack is too hot. It has a fuse and a thermistor in between the cells. if the controller sees low voltages , the pack will be “open” yet the cells can still be good.
I have opened a pack manufactured in 1996 and the cells were good, such that I have recharged each cell pair directly. If you still have a ThinkPad 600 and several bad packs, open them carefully with a sharp blade along the plastic clamshell, remove the bottom, turn the pack with the label facing down, get a regulated Li-Ion cell charger, attach it carefully to the ends of each pair straps (the cells are welded together), and charge each pair until they have a minimum of 3.2 VDC each (or let it charge up to 4 VDC). Then tape the clamshell together and plug the pack in.
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