Judging from the picture it would seem like either the defrost is not long enough or the temp sensor is out of spec. Your heater is fine, no ice near it and the hi limit is attached so we know it is good as well. If it were door gaskets you would have condensation on the walls and shelves before it made it to the evaporator. Honestly, these fridges are finicky and i have fixed this issue by just replacing the back panel as an assembly (DA97-12608A) I would do this before replacing assembly as its the least likely and pretty pricey part. Replace the sensor, it is a cheap attempt (DA32-10104N) before going to the control (DA94-02679D), i am not 100% sure but i want to say they had to increase the defrost times and there is not a way to do that yourself but have to have a new board with the new programing. Good luck
This is a LG built Kenmore. You have a bad compressor without a doubt. Have warranty fix it, should have a warranty on the compressor. I rebuild 3-4 of these a day. The compressor has been updated and its issues fixed at least for now but you can look up LG and their compressors and see what type of problems they have had.
Not much left. I would check the venting. These are a few things to look at. While your dryer is still running, and before you disconnect its power supply, place your hand over the exterior vent while it is running. You should be able to feel a strong air flow. If the air flow is weakened at all, check the following areas: A common culprit for an impeded dryer air flow is a blocked lint filter. Remove your dryer's lint filter. If you clean your lint filter regularly, check the venting hose. Make sure it is securely connected to your dryer and the external vent. Also, if your venting hose is kinked, it could create lint build up and poor air flow. Do a check of your dryer's venting hose to make sure it is not bent in an awkward position. Unplug the dryer and pull the unit away from the wall. You are going to need to get in behind it. Remove the end of the hose that connects to your dryer. Take a look for lint build up, or any other sort of blockage. Also do a check for any holes or tears in your venting...
The bearing would be noticeable when spinning the tub by hand. If you spin the tub by hand and feel no real resistance or noise then that’s a good sign. The inner tub should stay in round as you spin the basket. Find a point of the tub to keep an eye on and as you spin it the tub should not move up or down but rather stay even the whole time. I would also say that if it were the bearing then during the whole spin cycle you should be hearing it basically roar at you. I would take the back panel off and look at the shock absorbers and make sure they are not broken. I would also take the top off and make sure the suspension springs are in place and not broken either. Sounds to me like a shock absorber broke during transport. Type your model number into Searspartsdirect.com for a exploded view of your parts and that can show you exactly where they are and what to look for. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/5...-001198/whirlpool-wfw94heac0-washer-parts