used a T7 head to get this one out.
Also take a look at the guide for front camera replacement by the same author. It has pictures that this one doesn’t.
I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.
great tip. Worked for me on a Nikon 18-200mm lens. The lens motor was having trouble focusing.
I had gotten an estimate of $200 from a repair place but decided to live with it for the time being. In googling a way to fix it, I found this tutorial.
A couple of puffs on the sensor and all is good. I've seen a similar trick work with charging ports on phones. Blow away the bit of dust and get a clean connection. Thanks for posting!!
There NEEDS to be reassembly instructions for this. It's a bear. The digitizer is a walk in the park by comparison.
I think a straight on picture showing all the adhesive pieces in place would be really helpful.
These have got to be the tiniest Philips heads screws imaginable. A triple zero bit works but god help you if the screw is in too tight. I've stripped one after managing to get the other out. I love Apple but their insistence on ridiculously tiny screws drives me crazy.
I had to peel this up with my fingernail. The spudger can't get under it. Work it slowly.
The headphone cable just needs to be disconnected. That's all. No need to separate from the rear case (there's a lot of adhesive holding it.
The adhesive holding the board to the rear board is very strong. Pry slowly all around and use some force when you've loosened it as much as you can.
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