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You mean the model? This is the "New" Nintendo 3DS XL.
For reference, you can check the model number (MOD) on the back. The 3DS models are numbered as follows:
* CTR-001: Nintendo 3DS
* SPR-001: Nintendo 3DS XL
* KTR-001: "New" Nintendo 3DS
* RED-001: "New" Nintendo 3DS XL
I don't have the model on me for reference, but if I remember correctly, it's for the bottom screen.
We...never fixed that actually, as we didn't have the tools for it and the device had been loaned to us specifically for tearing down.
I don't know if iFixit themselves ever did anything with it, but I would imagine soldering the frayed end of the cable back onto the plug would work. (Here's a guide on that: http://www.instructables.com/id/Solderin... )
Apologies; I'm neither an iFixit employee nor do I usually fiddle with circuitboards.
That said, you'll notice that there was a warning about these ZIF connectors on step 13. I've moved the warning to the topmost bullet and added more detailed information concerning the connectors. Let me know if you have any questions!
Oh! Apologies; I didn't realize iFixit duplicated comments for duplicate steps. The message alert directed me to the motherboard replacement guide. Whoops.
Anyway, as I recall, the card reader was more safely and easily removed once the motherboard was out of the way. But I agree that it was likely doable without. Thank you for the input!
I think you might be confused; this is a guide for replacing the motherboard, not the entire bottom half of the unit.
Yep, we were able to put them back in quite easily after repeated teardowns! If they ever refused to stay in for some reason, you could always put a little bit of something sticky on them. (I use scrapbooking tape on my laptop's bumpers.)
With some digging, I managed to find this on the GBAtemp forums , which host a community of 3DS modders:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/screwed-up-p...
Seems like no one's quite sure, but it could be a start. Unfortunately, the N3DS components are largely small black boxes with no labeling.
If you have a multimeter, it might help to test some of these mystery boxes.
Submitted an edit! I corrected some of the bit sizes in the instructions as well (in our repair, a #00 was never used).