cheongi

Transcend Jetflash working fine for nearly 2 years. See comment on original question for details.

To do this job, sourcing the SSD screw is the hardest part and it's a custom Apple part. I got M2 x 4mm T4 flat head screw and the head is too small. So used the head off a stainless steel rivet to make the screw head bigger. Screws for the the clamp plate are M1.4 x 2.5mm (2mm for standoff + thickness of clamp plate). I got a box of assorted small screws for eyeglasses - have philips heads. I had some 0.8 mm aluminium plate to make a custom part 16x14mm. Drill 2 x 1.5mm holes 9mm apart 2mm from the edge. Thin foam rubber pad under the plate. All done.

Replacing the #3 cable is rather tricky and I didn't manage to find a good description. So having done it, here is what I did: (1) Note the number 3 cable is held down by a piece of metal which is folded over to make 3 clips. Google "iPhone 3G Proximity Sensor Cable" to see pictures of the cable and the metal cover with 3 bent metal clips (2) use a fine pointed bent metal probe tool to unhook the metal clips. (3) ( I used http://www.mendapump.com/MendaCatalog/To... and http://www.mendapump.com/MendaCatalog/To... This is tricky but doable and a lot easier than removing the glass to get to the clips as I saw on one YouTube video.

Worth reading this thread (at least a few pages at the start and a few at the end). Heat has some role. I think it's a symptom of system software corruption but others think it's bad thermal paste. http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa...

Last battery was a Nohon battery. Lasted about 18 months. Then the “won’t start up past apple logo” problem. Others have said there was a fix for this bug, but the correct fix appears to be a new battery. New adhesive strips used different adhesive which wasn’t so gummy and was partly unstuck and screen was slightly loose. Disassembled easily using suction cup (Isclack) with extreme care at lower right or avoid this area where all the cables are. Old non-oem strips easily removed. New adhesive strips were different design. Figuring out which goes where is easier lining up with the base features, but strip backing made it easier to apply to the screen. With adhesive strips and intact backing on the screen side, iPad can be assembled for testing prior to final stick down later. Much easier repair this time than with original gummy adhesive.

Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.

I’d rate it the hardest repair in earth!

These screws are M1.4.

Screw is M2 x 5mm long.

No need toremove this. The cable squeezes out of the gap under the case with enough length for the antenna plate to be out of the way.

[can’t edit the guide]

Reassembly:

Replacement double sided adhesive strips are applied to the case first. Figure which strips go top, bottom and sides. Start with the top or bottom corner. Apply the side strips last so you can figure which side is which.

Make sure the front camera and its window are clean. Use a strong magnifying glass and air duster. You won’t be able to get any dirt out unless you have more adhesive strips to use.

When you are ready to assemble, peel the backing off the double sided adhesive.

Support the screen at 90deg to case. Reattach cable connectors. Attach new battery connector then carefully position new battery with exposed adhesive into position in the case.

Attach connector clamp plate with 4 screws.

Carefully position the screen in case starting from the bottom edge. When it fits all the way around, press firmly round the edges to seal.

[can’t edit the guide]

Cleaningoff the old adhesive:

Remove the old adhesive from underside of the glass and the edges of the case. This was the most time consuming part. Took 2-3 hours, because the original adhesive was really gummy and i didn’t want to damage any parts with harsh solvents. (I used a series of methods": citrus oil adhesive remover, methylated spirits, sticky tape stick and lift off.)

Making sure the edges of the glass and case are spotless ensures a good result when applying the new adhesive strips. New strips can be gently applied, peeled back and reapplied to make 100% sure they are in the right place. If adhesive residue is still present the new strips could get stuck in the wrong place and be impossible to reposition.

The vibrator motors die with use, so it could be that they just died coincidentally. I have replaced two on two phones. There are two models of vibrate motor - one with bent metal contacts and one with two coil springs. There were two different vibrate motors in the two iPhone 3G 16GB we bought at the same time. I chose to buy the motors with the coil springs, since they should maintain contact better over time.

Note the photograph shows the two tabs on the vibrate motor visible - this is incorrect. The tabs go into slots in the rear case. The vibrate motors behave better attached to the rear case with a small dab of neutral cure silicone, which eliminates a nasty rattly vibrate noise.

I note a lot of people forgot to retrieve the chromed trims from their old case. I tried to edit to ensure someone next doesn't make the same mistake, but my edits got rejected.

[* black] The rear panel, attached front bezel, camera housing, chrome trims, microphone/speaker grills, and volume switch remain.

[* black] Use a spudger to remove the camera housing and its chrome trim ring. When reassembling, note the chrome trim ring is keyed to the camera housing.

[* black] Use a spudger to remove the microphone and speaker grilles from either side of the dock connector. They are attached with adhesive.

[* black] Use a spudger to remove the headphone socket chrome trim with plastic surround (stuck with the blue glue on the photo).

[* black] Carefully pry the glue join between the metal bezel and the plastic case. Remove the bezel and the volume switch. The volume switch has attached plastic spacers between it and the volume switch mechanism which must be retained or replaced for the buttons to protrude enough to be pressed. When gluing the bezel to the new rear case, do not apply glue to the part of the bezel which retains the volume switch.

[* black] Remove the grey sticker from the middle of the case.

[* black] Refit the removed parts using their attached double sided tape or a suiitable flexible glue (eg polyurethane adhesive).

[* black] Refit the removed parts using their attached double sided tape or a suitable strong and flexible glue (eg polyurethane adhesive).