EastCoastCanMan

You can buy a new tip and splice it in, if you search likely find it reasonably cheap so buy two.., albeit perhaps bulky tape job is necessary and wires soldered then taped….. A complete new cord & tip end, which you must solder to the proper polarities of the charger board after removing the old one, this may take a bit of work and a dremel for example to cut along edges carefully, to open the casing without cutting into your hands or internal components of the charger then, do the replacement/repair, epoxy it back together. If you put a piece of material or porous paper right over the wet glue it will increase its strength 1000 fold, scratch up the edges and sides with sandpaper that you want to glue so the glue gets a good rough surface to grip to. This is a temporary fix until replacement cord or charger arrives or may last for years… Keep reading plz… You may still be able to charge with that pin being bent yet not severely as I see in the pic, however, if it gets much worse it could break off and the...

The only additions I may add to the lengthy, but eloquantly described steps below, would be to inspect the elements themselves; occasionally the element which contracts when cold (off) showing a good resistance (Ohms), yet, under load (on), will quickly seperate the split element. Similar to a loose terminal on a car battery will deduct 80% of its potential to provide power (Amperage) A loose/corroded mating surface on connectors will cause extreme heat and arcing, burning the molecular structure of the copper wire. It will appear black and purplish and be fatigued so inspect connectors and wire condition to terminals which demand Amperage. Quickie Fix! I have actually taken many a broken element, twist broken ends together, then wrapped the twist fix with a piece of element from a broken toaster to make a solid connection, just may save you money and hopefully not burn the house down so this is possible but not really advisable, some risk exists, exponentially with dirty lint-filled exhaust ports, the...

You people changing O2 sensors, cam sensors, etc are typically wasting money and time. You Must check your Codes and even that may only be an indicator towards the real issue: A bad sensor may only be a wire or a bad ground if several codes are showing up typically indicates bad alternator, ECM or simply a bad wire somewhere. Sensors have an OHM range and can easily be tested! Better to get a cheap ELM code reader eBay than pay $80 to someone. Every car should have this built in, in my opinion! Without knowing what codes are showing, and to simply look for vacuum leak in that system or to clean MAF sensors when it’s running real bad, will have you delirious, and broke. I would really invest in a good OBDii code reader, one that has ABS, SRS (TPMS now too) as these issues will put cars in limp mode. Security issues (Transponders chips in keys) are a separate problem and may cause ‘ECM Disconnected’ codes, so for some issues expensive testers may be needed like the SBB V48 (V33 is old and only good up to...

Hmmm. I am thinking that perhaps you used the wrong type cable, they are specific! Typically when this is done there will be components near the LVDS connector on the logic board that may get damaged or perhaps a chip onboard will fry instantly. However, since you still have signs of life I suggest that the connector in the logic board is damaged, look carefully (with a magnifying glass and a strong light to see if any conectiins to the connector is damaged. Also you can look inside the connector on logic board to see if any black areas are preventing a connection. There is also a fuse in that location but since you have lines this fuse should be good but there is one line obviously not making contact. Perhaps you used a used defective cable but since using the old cable gives you the same results I'm tho king it's in either the connector inside the screen or where it attaches to logic board. I have used the striker from a book of matches to wedge inside the connector and rub gently back and forth to clean...

Update 2018 Dec.: I have an iphone 6S now, bought it for $60 as it wouldn’t turn on, having broken the screen of a newer 6S I traded from Kijiji. This Gold 6S, upon opening had signs of water damage both on top by camera and bottom at charge port area but no significant damage. Fortunately I had parts and could interchange that logic board and anything else. Cleaning the charge port itself (after disassembling the whole phone realizing the logic board wasn’t water damaged) I was able to get the phone working but the power drain was very heavy and the phone would reboot itself or shut off intermittently! There was no physical damage to the charge port electronics but inside the port itself where the contacts are there was an issue and I had to connect and disconnect it many times before it would take a charge at all and at first sat there for several hours only to get to 75%… Sometimes my phone would crash an then when it turned back on it would show Red 1% power then it would jump right back to 100 % or...

Your batteries are shot! Lead Acid likely & Either 2,3, or 4 X12volt =48 volt bike. Ebike batteries must be Deep Cycle as car battery will die quickly as they are only good for a quick jolt where a deep cycle can take a big charge loss and then be charged again almost immediately, giving a wee bit of cooling time and a quicker charger will shorten battery life and if you take off right after a fast charge the charge will deplete faster. If you don't maintain and/or abuse your batteries they get rundown and need replacing. Understand to conserve power and to not let lithium especially go below 10° Celsius if you can help it or their life expectancy diminishes as well as their output. I think this is what you are referring to- as you can't go as far as you use to and there is no reset button. You may have lead acid batteries and they are heavy and need constant maintainance and desulfating trickle charge and must be charged and replaced often. LifePo4 and lithium ion is expensive but you get the benifits...

I would have a better one made, or make it yourself if you have that availability of a few tools and some technical savvy or sort of thing. A local backyard mechanic or junkyard for bikes/light trucks will have plenty of parts that could be converted- these guys can fix you up. If you own an ebike you (Similar to a Harley Davidson owner) should have a working knowledge of how to diagnose and fix your ebike/e-scooter. There are websites like 'endless sphere' that can give you some tips if you have time to read as most ebikes are quite similar with 3 types of motors and 3 types of batteries needing 3 types of chargers. The type of motor and the controller is important if you want to consider upgrading to make it faster perhaps you must know your motor although endless sphere may be only a starting point. I would try local Kijiji site and see if anyone is fixing or parting out bikes usually anyone buying that stuff will also sell it and fix you up. Keep on Rollin' Hope it helps. East Coast Canada Rocks! :)...

This is not an easy task best left for the pro or semi-pro as can be found locally on Kijiji perhaps. The greatest task is replacing the rubber around the perimeter of the lcd glass. It takes a special technique! YouTube has great videos on this. Be careful you have the Exact model (CPU speed is great indicator as the core i7 won't fit the core i5 and the 2.3 is different than either the 2.4 but one if those us same lvds for the 2.5 GHz model A1278 for example. Typically either gold or silver cover over connector. - do not force connector into logic board and should be a tight fit. Always be careful with the connector on the logic board it's very fragile. Having the wrong cable or screen attached will definitely fry a couple of components on logic board and that's $200-300 to fix. These components can be found on eBay, amazon, AliExpress or Alibaba - just can't recall which. But a broken screen can be picked up for 40.00 typically if not Retina and maybe even that. Keep in mind there is 30% more to pay for...

S orry, You didn't say you tried a different charge cord... dropped it, water damage even from sweat especially the 5S... There could be damage to the charge port or internal components from using quick chargers or non ISO chargers. I would suggest resetting the phone and update but only if you know the iCloud account, and never change a 5S fingerprint sensor and update your phone or it will get 'bricked'. You cannot swap FP sensors without programming from apple. You can replace the charge port complete cable...

A proper infra red heating station with magnification lens and eye protection and temperature control is the ultimate tool because there is no air blowing which could dislodge your part. But yeah, good answers for the do-it-your-selfer quickie fixes. Works for the most part. I see some expensive stuff that looks good and some hot-air reballing and soldering tools on eBay which would probably focus the air into a smaller and not so forceful output which may effect the micro circuitry in the smaller boards like this and cell phone repair. Some chips may be erased by the UV spectrum perhaps so considerations may have be taken there. Now I'm thinking on building one of these as IR/UV is used to set some glues used in cellphones and repairing a lot of stuff and this is my hobby. Update (10/10/2014): I would like to add that I don't recall giving this answer. After all attempts have been exhausted I would attempt an oven rebate if the conditions are right you shouldn't have any troubles but if that isn't the...

Donna Christensen, it sounds like weak batteries or a bad connection. Likely the batteries if it’s lead acid. Consider upgrading to lithium or lifepo4 and can go 12 volts above what you have but not too much wattage or things heat up, like the controller and or motor.

Dre NYC Check the wires where they go into the motor, its typically on the side of the motorized wheel (assuming your wheel is with motor built in. check that connector and check the wire as it may have been damaged in the spill. Its a common problem but generally an easy fix.

Pablo, that sounds like a bad connection from the controller to motor, throttle wire or controller itself. Likely controller to motor wires got wet and corroded. Be good to have a VoM to test for voltage and/or continuity on your wires.

This is an old post but applicable to hel others with same issue. Fault is generally wiring issue and likely things got wet and wires corroded. They could look good but without a tester for voltage and or continuity you can’t do much except wiggle wires and hope to get power. Your issue is a wire, bad throttle connection or connection to the motor. It’s always good to have a cheap spare controller $15.00 eBay. Get the controller for sensors and sensorless and then you have test unit for many bikes. Find controller with 36 & 48 volt.(assuming yours is 36 or 48 volt battery.

you guys with SLA(sealed lead acid) batteries are beating a dead

Sounds like dead batteries especially SLA have to be constantly charged or they sulfate.

Poor connections that look good especially going to motor or corroded… will power in and then off or not power on. If you short things, out a capacitor in the controller be easy to change for $3.00 DIY in 30 mins but Wiring/connector issues be first priority! A bad or corroded connection will leave you bewildered but an easy, cheap fix!

Many of my repairs were corroded terminals and poor connection, and where the wires go into the shaft on the side of the motor/wheel gets damaged, suspect anything exposed to the elements. IGO bike fuse was good but the connectors in each end of the fuse casing barely touched the metal and when power was drawn it would last a minute then quit!

If any of you guys have only 2 wires going into the motor then you should be able to hook the battery directly to those wires. Make sure bike powered wheel is lifted so it doesn’t take off on you. Some motors will run as is and others you still need to turn the throttle.

Most important is where the wires go into the motor, that is an area that if it gets damaged will short out against the shaft where it goes into the motor, you will see a coil or spring wrapped around the wires, sometimes that spring coil shorts out those wires. I usually pull the spring out and add some protection to those wires.

Fully charged doesn’t mean it is above the threshold where the controller shuts it down. You must put a multi meter on it and see what the voltage goes down to eg., for a 36 volt bike it’s low cut off will be around 26-28 volts to protect the battery from getting too low.

This post is absolutely useless information- basically the same as Apple would provide in its quest for planned obsolescence.