pifia

90% of Macbook Pros with their original hard drive from this era are so slow upon first boot that I want to throw the thing into the garbage. I used to boot up and run malware scans and check the small things before getting into installing MacOS on the new SSD, but that is a huge waste of time. I would rather get the SSD up and running before and transfer user files with all their virus than trying to navigate this machine on a hard drive. These Macbook’s specs are not spellbinding, but the hard drives in these are a HUGE bottle neck…that’s why they are such amazing bang for buck if you know about the SSD upgrade.

This sounds a lot like an issue I have had with aluminum Macbook pros from 2010-2012 when installing an SSD. Works for a few hours to days, then question-mark icons leading to missing or corrupted files appears, and as time goes one they increase in number until booting no longer works. I read lots of threads about replacing SATA cables, which works for some, others not so. One article identified that this was almost always happening to people AFTER installing an SSD, and only AFTER placing the SSD into the machine. The writer suggested placing electrical tape on the flat aluminum part of the case so as to isolate the flat SATA cable from rubbing against the metal case, which they determined was causing data transmission issues leading to file corruption. I don’t know about the explanation, but after a very temporary success and then sudden, familiar failure with a newly purchased SATA cable, I did the tape trick and there was no corruption issues after that. About a year later, I had the same issues with...

I had these issues on two occasions for 13” Macbook Pros from 2012. After hours of reinstalling and re-corrupting the MacOS on a new SSD I was installing, I ordered a new SATA cable. The most recent time, the new cable did not fix the problem. I then read about SSDs not tolerating erroneous data sent along SATA cables very well, with the suggestion that the cable would produce data errors because of it rubbing against the aluminum case. The instruction was to insulated the cable from rubbing against the aluminum case by putting a few strips of electrical tape beneath the cable, on the case where the flat SATA cables run. I did that and then suddenly the new cable worked, and no more corruption of my installations. I never did throw the old cable back in to test if the tape was a singular fix (I was just happy to see the SSD show up in Recovery again), but I sure kept the potentially-fine cable for a future fix. TL;DR - Make sure you put an insulated barrier between the aluminum surface and your SATA cable;...

I am having a similar problem with my 13” 2009 MacBook (white, unibody, A1342). Just last week it seemed like the charger top was having problems connecting, got it to work for a few minutes, and then suddenly it stopped working at all; (nothing on screen, no fans, no lights of any color on charger tip of computer). So far I have tried: -SMC reset, NVRAM reset -move MagSafe charger port back out to just-behind case -disconnect battery and SSD -confirmed this model is to use 60W charger -change charger to a newer one, with pins not pushed as far in So changing the charger PLUS doing the SMC reset specifically as victorclausson suggested gets the computer to boot, so long as the battery is disconnected. During the process of figuring this out, the screen displayed some very strange patterns on boot, the inside side of the MagSafe port area was sparking one time, and every time I get it to start up then the fan runs at a very high speed. I am able to run Hardware Test, with no errors detected. In Terminial I...

Best NOT to disassemble this connector when you can just pull out the IR sensor from the frame and tape it gently onto the logic board for doing your work. I found this connector to be stuck so hard, that even the use of one spudger on each side of the plug pulled the connector apart and the wires came out. I wish I had known how unnecessary this part was. Now I will have to buy the customer a new one.

Be very careful when putting the Torx screws back as they are very easy to leverage and seems to bend the white piece at some point, making me nervous they could crack it. Don't overdo these.

The left-most philips screw in this picture does not seem to go in properly. The best I could do was use the screw with least of the blue screwlock on it and then err on the side of leaving the white plastic a bit Ioose in that location.

I did this on a 2009 white unibody Macbook with a caddy that fit well, but I couldn’t get the second hard drive to show up in Finder, DiskUtility, or with ‘diskutil list’ in Terminal. System Report’s SATA Device Tree does show two SATA connections possible, so it seems like all is good up until the connector.

The previous optical drive was '“broken” according to the owner of the computer, which I presumed was just classic optical drive breakage, but perhaps it is down to the connector between the two?

Any other guesses what might be wrong?

But apple is not gonna do the repair beyond the warranty, so I don't believe it's a consolation that apple would do that repair when I buy computers to last me a decade. You seem even a bit optimistic about this.

This guides information does NOT apply to Redmi Note 4 GLOBAL. I have the global and it looks different inside.