I have the Mako Driver kit. The Y000 in that doesn’t work. it doesn’t seem to work for these screws. Almost feel like the tip needs to be ground down to fit the Y screw.
I think the only concern by not removing the MoBo would be heating up the components with either a Heat gun or the Heat Pad.
because Microsoft puts a security code on the motherboard to pair the drive with the motherboard. so if they don’t match, all it will do is read DVDs and not play any games. Depending on the drive, sometimes you have to Unsolder and resolder the wires going to the motherboard. Other times, it can just be a series of clips for 2 cables and a plug.
If you learned basic soldering in High School, it isn’t too hard to solder.
In the old IN08A Dreamtab, you could remove the touch screen with a heat gun and patient , but the LCD was attached to the Top glass via a soldered cable requiring both the Touchscreen and LCD to be bought together.
The NV08B, The Touchscreen is separate from the LCD screen. However, the Touchscreen at least on my NV08B that I tried to remove was glued down inherent much tougher and a heat gun wouldn’t loosen the glue around the sides of the LCD making it pretty much irreplaceable. I suppose a good glue solvent may have helped there, but I was lazy to purchase one. In the case you are better than me and able to remove the glass, I would recommend removing the LCD screen completely which is attached to the metal plate containing most of the components. (I also damaged the LCD while trying to pry the touchscreen out which I found out later.) I had to replace by purchasing the case/Touchscreen/Case for ~$30 and moving the components from the broken Nabi to the good touchscreen Nabi and that was much easier.
The DVD drives are coded to the Motherboard. If you buy the same exact drive to replace the broken one. You will still need to either 1) transfer the DVD circuit board OR 2) get the Firmware from the old DVD drive using a PC and then transfer it to the New DVD. There are website regarding this procedure if you want to look it up.
I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.
To disconnect the cable, it's easier to remove all the cards. I had filled up all 4 slots and I need to space to get my hand in there to disconnect the cable.
ok a little more brute force and i got it out and was able to disconnect the last power cord in the front lower corner.
Having issue taking out the PSU after removing cover and screws from bottom. It's loose, but the toggle bolts for the LCS seem to be in the way. Did anyone figure a way around this?