Kevin McCartney

I have this Macbook Pro 15 inch Touch-bar 2017, I swapped the top case to fix my keyboard, all features working perfect...

Today, my iMac 27 inch came back from the Apple Store with a new hard drive in it. The iMac went to the Apple store for...

Good Evening from Rainy Cali! I got an iPhone 6, shattered screen, visible LCD, all features working as intended....

The question I get all the time, that I don't know the answer to, is whether or not it's a good idea to insert a hard...

Whenever I try to play Youtube movies, browse iPhoto library quickly, my MacBook restarts itself. An error will come up,...

It sounds like the screen is defective. You could try reseating that LCD Assembly you purchased, just in case it isn’t fully seated onto it’s connector on the board. Edit: Can you return said screen for another one?

In light of all the things you’ve tried, it sounds like your Hard Drive cable needs replacing. The 2012 13” Macbook Pro a1278 (Non-Retina) is notorious for it’s failing cables. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2012) Hard Drive Cable I’ve attached a link to said replacement cable. :)

The iPad 2 has a ribbon cable in the top-right corner that’s responsible for the power button, volume, and mute slider functionality. This ribbon is frequently stuck to the digitizer, and is easily torn if you don’t know it’s there, and don’t take active measures to gently seperate said cable form the digitizer during repair. Edit: Yes it’s a hardware problem. This iFixit Guide covers replacing that cable: iPad 2 GSM Volume and Power Button Cable Replacement

In my experience, Tin Can Audio occurs when a front flex is partially damaged during removal. That little bugger is so friggin’ fragile, I feel like have to do have to superstitious things like play soothing music around the phone being repaired or I get Tin Can Audio, or an Ambient Light Sensor fails. To resolve the issue, you can reseat the front flex and earpiece, that may help. If that doesn’t work, Ben’s suggestion is the next best solution.

There are two different cable versions of this Cable: 821-1492-01 (was recommended) 821-1492-A (what you have) They Are Backwards-Compatible, yes. You aren't losing anything by using your A version.

If you can reseat that digitizer connector by pulling it out and putting it back in, you'd be surprised how many problems that solves. :) It's worth noting, that if your iPad had any power at time of replacement, erratic behavior can occur. I recommend you hold both the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons for at least ten seconds, until you see the Apple logo, before considering the digitizer defective.

Dan's Answer to a similar problem in 2014: Give him credit if it works. The keyboard/track pad ribbon cable from the top case is not seated correctly into the logic board connector (or damaged). Something was spilled into the keyboard and it took a bit of time to damage the connections. The last possibility is the battery has swelled pressing from under the keyboard causing it to fail. To test for the battery problem, put your laptop into a plastic bag making sure to pull out as much air out as you can. Place the laptop into your refrigerator for about an 2 hours to drop its temp. Take it out and quickly turn it on, see if the keyboard and track pad are working. If they are the issue is the battery pressing on the top case from below. If your upto it pop off the bottom cover to inspect the ribbon cable to see if its correctly seated. Otherwise you'll likely need a new top case as the keyboard is part of it.

The most affordable and reliable Option would be to utilize Apple's Out of Warranty Repair Service! It would cost a flat $150. I can't even buy the screen for that much, not including the 100 labor i'd charge to fix it. Here's a list of Apple's Out of Warranty Costs: https://support.apple.com/iphone/repair/...-damage In summary: To the Apple Store, and Beyond!

It could be the LVDS cable or the LCD itself. Let's try something: Open the Macbook into an Obtuse position (wider than 90 degrees open.) Do it a few times; Do any of the white lines change formation or position? If they DO, the LVDS Cable is more likely the problem. If this technique does NOT produce any change in the distortions, then the LCD itself is more likely to blame. Best Solutions: EZ Mode - Buy an LCD Assembly! Here's a link to a 13 inch 2009 LCD Assembly. See our handy guide on how to install said LCD Assembly, it's much easier than the other options. It's about $100 total! http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-LCD-Screen-Display-Assembly-Apple-MacBook-Pro-13-2009-2010-A1278-A814-/141999832321?hash=item210fd97d01:g:bN8A...

If you're running Windows 8 or 10, you will have to trigger a refresh to solve the problem. I believe the answer key was F11. Top of F11 once per second the moment you turn your computer on, if that doesn't work after 15 seconds so, pull down your power button for six seconds until the computer turns off, and try again. If you fail this three times it will trigger a Windows 8 or Windows 10 automatic repair. From there, click on troubleshooting, and click refresh your PC - warning if you hit reset your PC you will lose everything, use the refresh feature specifically. If you're running Windows 7, repeat this process but instead of tapping F11, tap if instead. Try logging in with that code or password again, And let's see if it does any better

The only way I was able to get through this step was to take a syringe And inject acetone In between been the now obliterated rubber gasket.

I cannot in good faith recommend that anyone try the steps.

I feel like this guide was written so that they could say that they've made a guide.

I just melted the rubber inside the Mac Screen And broke my LCD. My glass, ironically, is still very intact.

I cannot in good faith recommend that anyone try the steps.

I feel like this guide was written so that they could say that they've made a guide.

Some LCD Assemblies come with Adhesive pre-applied, simply peel and seal. :)

Otherwise, plan on running some double-sided 3M tape before commencing new LCD Assembly Installation.

TIP: B7000 Adhesive in the bottom left and right corners will help keep it in place moving forward.

Tread very, very carefully with that LCD panel.

No complaints, easy enough. I recommend using small cardboard boxes to hold the screen up at a 30° angle so you can work with both hands

Note, newer technology cells and iMac solid-state adapter bracket, you could easily put a 500 GB or terabyte solid-state in your iMac for zoom zoom time

One must consider, the USP based card adapter is like five dollars.

When I tell customers this, they usually get that instead of paying me $100 plus parts to repair it

If you can replace the airport card, try to replace the daughterboard that it resides in while you are at it.

Tedious as heck, but better than plopping a USB camera on the top or on the side. :-)

Hard to learn, easy to master. There are a lot of trap cables that are not very long. For best results, I like to use cardboard hard drive boxes to prop up my LCD display to a 30° angle so I can reconnect cables with both my hands.

Go slow, and take your time. Easy as long as you do not rush it.