MacBook medic

Ok so I have a macbook pro early 2010 15” i5 620m I can get this to boot from an SSD or USB drive but it wont boot from a...

I’ve never heard of installing the drive behind the optical drive, if it’s a blank bay designed to have a second drive then no or if it’s just replacing the super drive no. While 2600s is fine it’s likely that the efi rom is going to get hacked further for ivy bridge soon as it’s been hacked for Xeon support already. It’s not difficult to use a ch341a programmer, just a case of plugging in and following online instructions t

The other side of the logic board near where you ms painted the red line is the speaker it’s probably got a hole in it a cheap job to replace and not worth bodging .

Most likely the isl6259 charge controller and associated mosfets that wear at same time. It’s cheap to do but does require a eBay spec hot air station at max heat and eBay lcd microscope.

My MacBook Pro 2015 was refurbed in 2018 so haven’t had to try this fortunately but for my 17” 09 model I found all the sellers in Europe ship much smaller batteries than Apple spec instead I ordered from ferising on aliexpress and batteries fine.

It sounds like you didn’t like the answer the shop gave you to replace the display as the cable goes behind the glass to the webcam and would be a pig to swap and rare to buy the cable on it’s the own. If you swapped the cable you’d end up replacing the glass as well so best to buy a full display. There is the third option to follow the ifixit antenna replacement guide taking apart the laptop perhaps you could find the short and coat with conformal coating to stop it, is also use isopropyl on the connectors and toothbrush as this is the main point of failure for loose connections and shorts.

Ignore Dan the 2010 MBP has okay graphics and an okay cpu and while it’s definitely slower in catalina and runs much better on 8gb it’s fine on 4 for lighter use. Install the app drivedx and see if it points to any issues you may have a faulty hard drive cable or resistors that have failed on the data line causing slow transfers. you may also have an SMC issue where it’s telling the cpu to run slowly If you remove the hard drive cable on this there’s a tiny black SMD choke right next to the logic board connector that’s easy to flick off with your nail, don’t do that it’s a nightmare to solder back on.

If you’ve changed the keyboard and the fault is still there then the issue is clearly the logic board and that should have been obvious. You’re issue is likely the keyboard connector pins are bent and needs a new connector soldering(very delicate work) or liquid damage corrosion to a joint or probe point which can be fixed with enamelled jumper wire.

There’s a capacitor that goes bad on this model that any idiot with a $20 hot air station and tweezers can change. That causes freezes so get it changed

There’s a capacitor that goes bad on this model causing freezes. Any idiot with tweezers, a  $20 hot air station and the right cap can change it

I’ve just been fixing one of these tonight if theres no light on the charge wire and you’re sure the charger is good its likely a blown u7000 but its worth changing q7030 and q7031 while you’re here. I replaced a u7000 tonight the tools I used are a MUSTOOL G1200, 858d hot air ‘station’ max heat and low air, soldering iron with 900m-t-s bent tips, leaded solder and fine tips on my multimeter. I have experience with bits of hot air soldering and its at the limit of my abilities and very easy to create a dry joint. I appreciate this is a long and complex answer but I’d prefer the information to be here for the next guy so they dont get told to repeatedly reset the smc.

omg it is so bad you had to repair these at. I always just bought replacement cables on ebay with zero issue

This teardown is stupid on step 4 he says this ps2 has no clock battery when its clearly located next to the CPU in step 12

ebay just search cf to zif