Sterling Ordes

As the title states, my SCPH-5501's PSU board and controller interface went vamoose. The power supply was faulted when I...

I recommend getting another controller and seeing if that works. You could just be one of the unluckier folks and have a factory defect controller. If the new controller doesnt work as well, then try using a different USB port. Sometimes the connection in the USB connectors can be a little funky. If all else fails, just use a different (OEM) controller.

Water damage? IMMEDIATELY unplug the system. Disassemble it and dry every single part completely. Check for any corrosion and clean with isopropyl alcohol. I recommend anything higher than 70% because it is less water and dries faster and has less chance of causing corrosion. After the IPA hasd dried, check all nooks and crannies of the system and case (this is a good time to clean the thing as well), and check for any leftover water in any spots. Leave the system out for a day in a dry location, and then reassemble. If it STILL does not work, then the chip controlling the eject motors is shot and needs replacing. If you are not experienced in reballing a chip or replacing a BGA chip, just get a new motherboard, or even better, just get a new PS4.

It depends on the region, since they are region-locked. If you live in, for example, the USA, your PlayStation must be the U/C region model or have a 120v power supply. Check the region of your PlayStation, if it matches your region, it shouldn't spell disaster unless some idiot replaced the power supply with the wrong region. And no, they can't do both 120 and 240 volts (since they are region locked). If you want it to handle 240 AND 120 volts, you'll need to get a custom made power supply board.

Well, try opening the console and find the source of the sound. I feel like it might be a component on the power supply getting ready to pop. I've never had this issue, but my experience in the field has taught me that whistling noises usually come from dying power components. Measure the temperature of the board, preferably using a thermal camera so you can see anything overheating. What model is the playstation? This answer will be edited according to the response you give.

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to say you were ripped off. Very badly. The seller was probably a hacker who needed to get rid of evidence, so he dumped the evidence on you. Oh, and now the CPU is basically dead because the heat physically warped the silicon wafer in it. You will have to make very costly repairs, and it may drain your wallet by at least $100.00. Fortunately, Ifixit sells tools you'll need. Since I'm writing this from my PS4, I won't be able to copy links, so bear with me here. First things first, you can find YLoD repair kits here on Ifixit for $45. Get one of those. Next, buy a new fan, make sure it's the same type as the original. The new fan should spin without being aided. Finally, get a new hard drive. If I were you, I'd factory reset that console as well, who knows what sort of crimes against humanity the previous owner committed with it… If you need help opening the console, check out Ifixit's guides and look for Ps3 teardowns. Good luck!

Usually not. The circuit arrangements, programming, ect differ on all controllers, including 360 and One, so the console wouldn't recognize the signals or format of the 360 controller.

Sounds like the problem is the control board, not the door assembly. Try replacing the main controller circuit. Good luck!

Fixed it! Sony sent me a copy of the official SCPH-550X series service manual, and from there I was able to get the surface mount components replaced. C110 was a 1nF 50V ceramic, and turns out the dead short was from the IC, not the capacitor. I replaced both anyway. The controller port inductor (PS605) was indeed burnt out, so I replaced it with a Wurth Elektronik 1.5 mH surface-mount inductor. Now my PS1 works beautifully!

Check to see if there is an obstruction or broken mechanism in the tape cartridge sled assembly. Sometimes the fragile plastic mechanisms will break and prevent the tape from being pulled up to the drum. Or, you might have a foreign object obstructing the path of the arms that pull the tape out of the cassette. Give the assembly a good look and you'll probably find the issue relatively easily.

Apple keeps all of their parts and product information under wraps (yes, this even applies to the shells and cases), so you're not going to find anything online without the Dark Web. It's best to take it to a licensed Apple technician to get it repaired, since they are the only ones who can actually manage to acquire parts legally. Good luck.